Maybe put it in a bag of rice? I do that with my Super Glue and it lasts forever!

I'm pretty sure they do, the Minicraft drills have a standard three jaw chuck design (albeit smaller than a big drill) so can accommodate most off-the-shelf mini drill accessories.

Glad it was helpful.

paips4 thanks a lot - it's good stuff - very useful for figures.

+chiripitio Many thanks.

Aiming to do one on weld seams sometime in the future.

Marvellous, i'll look forward to it. P.S. Lilliput = Milliput autocorrected...

+C Tallent Good tip thanks for that!

Yep, use flour or talcum powder.

Central Industrial Art Modelling Yes just household talc - useful to stop any putties sticking to your work area.

Yes - just build up layers on top of each other when each is dry. Thanks.

Good suggestion - thanks!

One pack will get you a pretty serious sandbagged emplacement.

Scale War Machines Thanks for the reply☺

Yes - certainly

Superglue would work - though Milliput wont just break in two unless a lot of force is applied and it's thin - otherwise it's as hard a rock. Enamels or acrylics will adhere just fine.

You can paint over most anything with acrylics. So yes.

Probablly Baby powder or Talcum Powder

+GreenskinHolland It's fine - use an armature to help for support though but yes plenty of people sculpt complete figurines using this - you could also make abstract shapes or models too.

@@scalewarmachines ... although most sculptors prefer something that retains some rubbery-ness.

J Louisa it's best to for the likes of Zimmerit or, if using on a flat glossy surface but it's not strictly essential.

In theory yes that would work. But a proper release agent may be the most surefire way to ensure it detaches.

Thanks for the reply! What would be a proper release agent?

Something like Ambersil Formula 5 release agent might be better.

Superglue.

Not really, it could be polished possibly with something 'safety solvent' like as it cures, but my experience with the white is it mostly dries matt.

Milliput would be perfect but you might want to mould the sculpted miliput component for greater integrity and strength - just in case.

What is best for moulding it? plus I would like to also make a 2 piece mold since I want to make a few copies

RTV moulding using silicone should do the trick.

Not if you have some sort of armature or skeleton underneath. It will be pretty solid and should survive most light knocks. It's not indestructible but it's pretty strong.

We'll certainly try.

It's less grainy. Under a magnifying glass, you'll see little grains like sand on the grey stuff.

@@princeofcupspoc9073 Aha, thanks! I've only ever used the greeny-yellow type.

Yes greaseproof paper would probably work but it's not really something that shatters and fragments so worth trying first but you might find it surprisingly tough to break up as you wish..

Similar consistencies just used for different coloured applications that's all.

No I doubt it - the parts need to mix & then react chemically to start drying.

Hahahahaha

Yes. Prevents it sticking.

That there be talcum powder (or flour if we didn't have any talc)

Whichever paint you like, a primer might help but go with enamel, acrylic, lacquer, whatever you fancy.

+CursedMonkey Yes exposure to air is your enemy. Wrap it in as many layers as possible & seal away from light & air. However, like all products it has a shelf-life & there's not much you can do to prevent this. Always buy a fresh pack for an important project if you can & from a reseller who restocks often. It's remarkable how differently a new pack behaves to an old or expiring one. The Milliput acts exactly as it's supposed to. If in doubt, just get a fresh recently made new pack. May seem wasteful but it's the only way to be sure of a perfect mix & result. We'd say the shelf-life is a year to two years.

+Scale War Machines can you get this at hobby loby

+Garrett Gman Not sure I'm afraid - don't know that reseller only UK ones likes Historex Agents www.historexagents.com/yt - but they do ship worldwide.

+Scale War Machines oh ok its alarge hobby shop that has alot of things but i apresheate your response thank you

You'll probably still need to sand when dry, but you can reduce the sanding work if you smooth or clean the area with water before it dries fully.

Check you mixed it correctly in the correct proportions. You need to blend the two components really well. It may be you have an old pack. Order a fresh one. They have a limited shelf life and really deteriorate if air gets to them.

I've never done a full model in Zimmerit using Milliput, but I have seen people use both. Possibly the white one may be better as it's marginally finer, I've also seen people use Tamiya Two Part Polyester Putty and I have personally used Wickes (a DIY Store here)' no more nails' grab type adhesive. The key is to test on scrap first, have a good Zimmerit tool and work in small sections at a time. All these techniques work, if you have the patience. The easiest I have found is grab adhesive like the Wickes one or you can buy something like Tamiya's decal versions or resin type appliqués from other manufacturers.

@@scalewarmachines hey thank you for the reply. ya i need the tools, they're sold out at a retailer in Canada. I have an off topic question but maybe you can provide an answer since your knowledge is so vast in regards to "hobbying" but what are your thoughts on the AK Interactive 3rd generation paints in comparison to vallejo model color. Are they better, same, ? Im thinking of getting some but don't know if i should. i kind of collect paints too just to have in case i ever need them.

@@MF-kv8cn AK 3rd Gen? They spray well, I have some I will review soon, initial tests are positive, but I also like Vallejos (and Lifecolor, Mission, Andrea, Ammo, Tamiya etc.). TBH, I have yet to find a bad paint range, all have been good. I can honestly say I have no one 'must-use' brand - all are good. I am happy to use any.

@@scalewarmachines army painter is pure trash, garbage, crap, dog doodoo, etc..

You may interested in the video on Zimmerit I just posted. Although it does use another product (Apoxie Sculpt) - the principles should be the same.

Unusual it doesn't dry. Was it a fresh pack? Noticed that packs can have a limited shelf life, especially the white one which can go chalky, even adding water won't help. The difference when using a brand new pack from a supplier with regular inventory restocks is remarkable.

@@scalewarmachines yes it was a fresh pack. Very weird...

You may interested in the video on Zimmerit I just posted. Although it does use another product (Apoxie Sculpt) - the principles should be the same.

That's correct.

Ethan Burmistrzak yes you can use Milliput - especially Milliput White.

Good question. We believe the answer is no - but we could be wrong.

You can! However too much will alter the cure and make it crumbly. It's easier just to paint the finished figure and use the miliput with the closest colour. Make sure your pigments are concentrated if you do so as not to inhibit the cure properties. Experimenting helps too to figure out ratios :)

No it's more chalky and less rubbery (shiny).

Strange, could be a bad or expired batch. Try mixing in equal parts, place small ball in mircrowave and heat briefly so it warms up and see if a little ball of it dries hard in 6-7 hours. As for what you already applied, try heating it with a hairdryer but if not dry now, wait a day, if still not dry, it's an expired pack. Heat generally speeds things up.

Hi scale war machines I mixed it better I rolled it in two rolls and then mixed them together and mixed them longer than usual and reapplied it and it came out hard as a rock. Thank you for replying.

Sebastian Alcaraz it could do and would work well but if it’s for a flying model it have trouble binding and could affect trim and flight characteristics. For plastic static kits it would be great.

Scale War Machines awesome, it is for a static model plane, Gulfstream series. Thanks! I see it has a matte finish, any suggestions for a white polished final look?

Sean Tully - you can get most of theses tools on Amazon, EBay or model stores. The hand tools are “wax carvers” or sculpting tools.

All of them good as fillers. White is finer.

I’m wanting to connect 2 Bazookas together for a project.

If you pin the bazooka with a metal rod and fill, it will work, but it's not a glue. It needs structure to form around and then it will dry and bond it.

KaijuDust92 It’s much more durable. Quite hard to break - a bit like stone when dry.

Scale War Machines thanks I’ll try to get some

Talcum powder or flour can't really recall - probably talc.

A particulate mask if sanding is good and it's always good to be cautious, but when you work it together or mix it, it's not very toxic but it recommends gloves when doing so.

Basically yes - it's a type of epoxy putty. Some, like Tamiya Quick Type or Kneadatite Duro seem more rubbery.

See previous replies in this thread. Probably improperly mixed or an outdated pack.

Not sure but you might be able to get other two-part epoxy putties, Tamiya Quick Type for example, ask your local Tamiya stockist/importer.

Epoxy & China Clay.

After an hour you start to find it becomes less workable. But it depends on ambient temperature as well of course. Worth always making sure you buy the freshest Milliput you can too. You don't want packs that have been sitting around for ages.

This seems a common problem with the white judging by the comments, excuse the obvious but you mixed the two parts in similar quantities thoroughly? Was it a fresh new pack from a supplier with plenty of stock?

@@scalewarmachines yes , been using Milliput for a lot of years , it's not just the white .

Strange - more often than not, it is too dried out and doesn't stick to anything. I recommend Aves Safety Solvent as a way to clean, smooth and work Milliput - it may also help you to detach yourself and your gloves!

Extremely. Like all modelling products, especially books or magazines, it’s basically more lethal than Uranium or Novichok. Hence the gloves.

@@scalewarmachines so I shouldn't be chewing it like chewing gum to mix it then

But it will put lead in your pencil. The Spartans used to chew Milliput before going into battle.

Yes - no probs. Just need to sand once dry for a smooth finish.

Thanks. :)