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I totally would want to see these with nylon and accessory cord! Very neat!

The quality is always going up on these! Really hope this show blows up with the climbing and slack community such bingable content

I will never be able to do highline, but you are such a great person doing all this testing for other climbers. Your channel is extremely educational, and I like everything you do. Keep up the good work!

Hey weird question and it may have been answered at some point (I'm new to the channel) but what do you do with your broken slings? I make camera straps from shock loaded/overused/old slings and it can sometimes be hard to find these since most people throw them out. Anyways I'd definitely be interested in the broken slings if you don't have a home for them.

Really appreciate this video. I like to do cloves with a magic X for my anchors and I was just trying to defend it the other day to my friend who didn’t trust it. This video is really helpful!

It would be interesting to see the scenario of using clove/girth hitch anchor when the bolt fails instead of the sling failing like in the video. I predict that the carabiner would prevent the sling from slipping all the way through thus increasing the strength(compared to the sling being cut). When I'm building an anchor to belay a second on a multi-pitch , I am more concerned about the bolt failing then the sling failing, since the sling is mine, I know its history, and I can adjust the anchor or my stance to prevent abrasion, while a random bolt has a lot more unknown variables.

I've never used a girth hitch or clove hitch masterpoint... they just doesn't make sense to me. That said, I love that you finally tested what happens when you cut a single leg and I like that you pointed out that the first couple tests aren't redundant to a force break. I'm really looking forward to the quad testing, and can't wait to see the results from "cut one leg" test in that anchor. Also want to see these same sorts of tests with sliding x with limiter knots, or a overhand/figure eight masterpoint. As you pointes out, cord and nylon would also make interesting tests too.

Hey great videos! I love how you do your stuff and tell everybody its not scientific, just having fun and breaking climbing stuff!!!

Good video! Thanks for breaking so many nice pieces of gear so we trust ours more - or less =) 14:05 would love to see it stopping at something like 2 kN and keep to see if it stays or slips. Reason is, you had a fall with load peaking at 4.5 kN, one of the legs broke, then you're hanging on the other leg. The peak load is gone, now the load will be smaller, and the imporant thing is the the other leg holds it and you don't go anywhere.

Thats amazing. Thank you for all these tests.

thanks so much for doing these tests and posting the results. i have been specifically looking for a slip test of a girth hitch in Dyneema, like that starting at 15:00. many are advocating girth hitch anchors, including AMGA certified guides, but i have been skeptical of whether a girth hitch effectively closes the system. slipping to failure at 5 kN does not meet my definition of closing the system. i was so glad to find this video that i sent som $toke your way, via your website.

Love your stuff. I recently came across a comment section... Or FB.. or MP thread.. where people were talking about using a close hitch on an anchor. Your timing with this video could not have been better! The viewing angle at ~14:15 was really cool. Being able to see the Dyno while pulling was nice! One note, those razor blades you were using for abrasion are super fragile and can break into tiny pieces. Wouldn't take much for something to bounce up and send shards of razor everywhere when the dynema snaps. Most pocket knives are built way stronger and would withstand something like that. Retracting the blade of the razor as much as possible would also reduce the chance of breakage. I know you're careful about safely, but we can always overlook something and make a mistake!

I love those slings. I heard that normal tube webbing was full strength when 50% cut through. That’s why I was all about mammut slings, plus the stitching connection is super clean

Thanks for the awsome content ! I'd love to see the same test with nylon cordelette instead of dyneema !

This totally makes me think a granny knot is the “best” for redundancy at least once lol. Any knot that “jams” under load would test better with these parameters would it not? Sweet tests fellas. Tuned in first thing after waking up. Look forward to the next one and what people have to say in the comments. Thanks for the sweet content as always.

This was actually surprising... I am into trad climbing and Jenkya... this is helpful 🙏🏼👌🏼🔥

Amazingly interesting and entertaining again. Thx 🙏🏻 Accessory Cord would be interesting. I for example use 6mm aramid cord 🤔

Love the entertainment knowledge you create.

I’d be interested in the nylon and cordelette! Thanks for the videos

After the final sling break test... I was just waiting and hoping to see you knot the two ends back together and take a second run to see if the sling would at the knot or the 30% nick. Keep up the entertaining and informative work!

That pain in his eyes at 4:40 went right to my soul. Also I know this is an old video but I'd be so hyped for you to work with the slow mo guys. Maybe break some bomber nuts so we can see that sweet cable unravel action. Or get some 10000 fps shockload videos.

Thank you for your videos, they are super informative! One thing to note - you often say “32 times higher framerate than real life” - there is really no set framerate for “real life” - they choose 24 fps for movies for a smooth watching experience that is not hard on our human eyes. One can’t put an estimate on how fast our “perceptive” framerate is, since our eyes light capture functions quite differently from cameras

LOVE watching you break/test stuff. I'm really curious about the strength of this rope from harbor freight that says safe working load 600lbs and it's $10 for 100ft. Also rope from dollar tree, kinda like the kind featured in your tree nest video. Would be a very cheap date for the slackstat. Thanks for all the great videos!

very interesting tests!

I'd love to see this video revisited now that the drop tower is finished.

Quad one-leg pull test, please)) In case of one bolt failure, the knot (weakest point) will be at the carabiner (highest tension point on the loop). Will be interesting to see how it holds.

Could we please have testing on the slide X girth hitch (17.35) on two materials (nylon cordelettes, dyneema), two configuration (2 points anchor, 3 points anchor) and for both break strength AND slippage ?

I put on my safety glasses just to *watch* you cut that tensioned Dyneema! Glad it turned out ok.

Awesome, good job boys. What would be interesting to see is if 2 nylon slings, tied with an overhand knot together (sometimes used for TR anchors) can take more or less force. Does the knot reduce the force capacities enough to cancel out the redundancy of two slings?

If you go to Samson rope website (they make dynema ropes up to 6 7/8" diameter) they specifically say not to use any knots with their rope (or any rope with the same material) because the friction from the knot cinching down creates enough heat to melt the fibers.

About the girth hitch with or without the magic X. If an anchor fails, it could lead to girth hitch slippery till the end of the sling and out (g.h. without magic X) if you do not consider the anchor carabiner. But the carabiner is still there, if not broken, so it will prevent the fatal slippery, no matter the kind of girth hitch done. Good job!

I was swaging some wire loops for a non-climbing project and started to wonder how strong are the ferrules and wires sold at Home Depot versus on wired nuts and are the ferrules on the wired nuts going to be the weak point in them? I don’t see that you have done any videos on this topic. I would find it to be a cool test.

Thx for the test, helps me fight with my friends miths

Abrasion and bolt failure are very different things. Magic X will provide redundancy in case of bolt failure, but not in case of abrasion. Thanks for the video.

Also, I'm not a climber, but those cut tests were VERY interesting. I couldn't believe neither of them broke where you expected

very interesting, it would be very useful to see how nylon performs in the same tests

When you do the quad anchor on Accessory cord I would like to see the following scenario(s): 1) Have only "1 bolt" connected (like one bolt "failed") and pull from the remaining bolt and the master point biners with 2 ropes clipped vs. 3 ropes clipped in the quad. In Various thicknesses of cordage. I know 7mm is the recommended, without realizing I've been using 6mm for years, and do 5mm as well. I hope I was able to articulate what I meant.... you really should have more subscribers, this is such an awesome channel, I can't recommend you enough!

I would really like to see you guys test different types of daisy chains. I think we all rely on them blindly without thinking that they may not be as redundant as they should be.

Good to know: 21:15 I didn't break at the cut! =) Holding my slack line in the backyard, I have a 18 years old 16mm nylon sling which has a cut through like 50%. Holding like 5-6 kN. On the other hand, on the same slack line system, some old kevlar cords broke recently, they were just about 12 years old. Both constantly exposed to the outside weather for the last 5+ years.

Hi, can you test the bull hitch and also bull hitch with the additional twist x?

Interesting to see that some anchors we think theoretically redundant and safe are not in practice... there are other kind of knots which would be interesting to test like the magic X with an overhand knot on each leg (carabiner between the 2 knots) and also the quadruplet anchor (2 overhand knots done on a doubled sling 1 ou 2 carabiners attached between the 2 knots)

I think dynema is prone to loose strength from repeated flexing, so in your partial-cut-tests, my hypothesis is that it broke at the location it had flexed the most in the past.

ACMG is still recommending girth hitch anchors for ice climbs. Justification seems to be that loads generated in normal climbing won't be high enough for slippage.

would be interesting to see the nylon and cordelete, they have more friction than dyneema (that's why water knot is only for nylon webbing)

The outer red thread on the dyneema sling you cut the first time is nylon, used to color code and hold the dyneema weave together. Dyneema itself can't be dyed, that's why it's always white. That's crazy that it didn't break at the cut the second time. I would say a bigger sample size would be needed to make a statement like that IMO, but wouldn't have expected that. Thx for the vids. Keep up the great work!

Longtime listener, first-time caller from the climbing world. I would be interested in a "sketchy AF alpine/trad/rap anchor setup." The kind of stuff that you come across in the mountains at 2AM and go ahead and rap off because maybe, just maybe, you'll be blessed with the sweet sweet release of eternal death after days of exhaustion, exposure, and starvation. Things like 1" webbing, 9/16" webbing, or 5-7mm cord either directly threaded through or girth hitched to bolt hangers, eyes of pitons, or even directly through the wire cable on stoppers. Basically, when playing this flavor of Russian roulette, how many chambers are loaded in the gun? Similarly, how strong are knotted sling placements? There's a lot of variables at play here (material, knot used, placement quality, ...) and building an appropriate test rig might be more difficult. Perhaps something along the lines of a V-slot between a couple boards bolted together?

at 14:33 the 7 ish Kn was sustained over 18 seconds. on a fall, the peak force is sustained over a fraction of a second.

It'd be interesting to see it "going over an edge". AKA have the sling or other gear going over a rock (instead of a knife) and see how much it reduces the forces before it snaps.

I love the magnetron!!! but yeah I only have one they aint cheap thanks for breaking expensive shit for us to learn!

Also, when cutting with your razor, try slicing in the middle of the strap. The edge cut tends to tear out. A slit in the middle might still have more strength.

Some comments already mentioned but would be great to see a dynamic test of the clove and girth hitched slip after one side is cut i.e. one bolt fails. Could start with 80kg FF2 and keep upping the weight until it fails and/or slips.

Thumbs up for the "testbed" :D

I would really see dyneema break tests in dyno forces and not in static pull. I know it's tricky but if would could figure out a way to make this break test it would be really interesting on how much the mbs reduces in dyno forces. Keep it up Ryan and friends!

Have you guys tried the clove hitch in the beener with the X the other way around? I have this argument with the guys where we think it would be stronger than the way it was tested in your video. I hope you guys get to test it 😁

You guys are great. sorry i'm broke (but just right now).

Amazing work! Really appreciate it. Guys - is it possible you do some tests with dynamic (not static) shockloads on the anchors (build with dynema and knots) . If possible use different stuff to simulate what was used to clip in - dynamic rope, static poliamid sling.... Falling factor 1 , 2 ? :)

Thats very interesting could you also break some Bulin knots in Dyneema slings, would love to see that, since they say the Bulin gives you less strain on dyneema slings. Regards from Switzerland

very interesting tests guys I'm surprised those slings didn't break where they were cut. Did they break at the carabiner?

Hi, I know this video is old, but cN you do the same tests with the petzl evovl adjust?? That's what I'm using. I gurth hit hed it to my hard points and added a figure 8 on two strands directly above the girth hitch.

Hi ya, I wasnt that surprised by the cuts, try abrading with sandpaper/glasspaper across the whole width of the sling between your sharpie lines, so it becomes furry - thats should make a big difference.

@HowNOT2 have you guys tested Nylon slings on anchors?

I think it's an really important point, that, if one line on your anchor gets cut and you whip on the still intact one, you might achieve ~7kN force, BUT that is a shockload. So I would GUESS(!!!) that there is a good chance that the knot might not slip the whole way. Sadly that is probably not really testable safely. You awesome guys did mention that, but only in like a sidefact. Thanks for your work! Cheers!

I've never heard anything described as "crazy warm" before but hey I always learn when I watch this channel

It breaks at the carabiner for the same reason it allways breaks in the knot. Where you bend rope it is likely to break as you are not using the whole diameter of the rope where it bends. I'd be curious to see what would happen if that tiny cut ended up near the carabiner. Very interesting!

Wow, great results. I typically use 2 dyneema slings for an anchor with sliding X on both biners (1 sling, 1 biner). Would be interested if this gives 2x strength or where the slings meet at the bolt biners if there's friction there ?

What is the hitch called that Jann Camus showed? It looks a bit like the Piwich/Bull Hitch, but tweaked a bit.

Could you break test nut tools? I’ve heard you could use them as pro in an emergency. I wonder which one is strongest

Great job guys!! If I can suggest maybe you should keep the machine pulling and then cutting piece, maybe will be more relistic. Of corse we want to see nylon and especially cordelette. Another idea could be broke cheap stuff from china, they sell it on ebay. keep going!!

Awesome video! I’d love to see how nylon acts in that situation

That’s bananas. I’m with Bobby. I’d be tempted to isolate it with a knot. Maybe you need to test that literal scenario a couple time to help our brains get it.

The second knot is adjustable. So, the loop slides until the rope is completely released. Try a butterfly knot, for example. Correct is to use butterfly for a start and end of this element of the sistem, and second knot (streme) between them :) So test butterfly knot 😇 it won’t slide from the carabiner 🙂

I feel like I should point out that although the dyneema slips around 4-8 kN, it takes several seconds of sustained pulling at this level to slip all the way loose. This isn't like a climber falling, it's like a climber getting grabbed by the kraken and being dragged down into the sea. You'd need to bring it up to this level briefly (less than a second), and then drop down to 1 kN or so to simulate the climber dangling for a while after the fall to have a meaningful test. We know the dyneema will slip with high sustained forces, but it's not clear if it'll slowly slip just under the weight of our dangling climber.

For the first partially cut sling, I beleive the red bit is just nylon, and as this is a woven material, is the weft of the sling... meaning it runs from side to side, not the length of the sling. It proves the structure and shape, but not the strength.. The white bit is the dynema, and is the warp, the threads that run the length of the sling and give the strength to it. For the second cut sling, it broke at a significant amount below the uncut sling. Less of the white fibers were carrying the load, and those remaining fibers broke at the weakest point of those fibers, where they wrapped around the carabiner. Impressive how much load it still carried though, I've retired gear for much less.

It seemed like the cut skiing still broke more easily. I bet the cut increased the force on the non cut fibers of the sling, causing them to break at the bolt threads

How is the sliding x changing anything in girth/clove? Without still the piece/carabiner/hanger would stop when hitting the knot. Only scenario where it makes any difference would be that somehow your one leg unclips from the carabiner and produces a closed 1 leg flapping around, doubt that ever happened.

You should break test the metolius easy daisy, that would be so wonderful. Perhaps on the drop tower? Does it really only hold 300 pounds?

simple, use double 9mm ropes. Put each one in the anchors. see DMM test on various factor 2 falls to anchors. We are talking multi pitch routes and not sport climbing or single pitch trad.

Those slings you were breaking have a safety feature in them. If the red band on the side isn’t complete or you can see a red patch through the white in the middle don’t use the sling. The red fibres are weaker and don’t give structural strength but give a clear visual cue for “too much” damage.

Awesome, as always. And even though, as you say, it is not "science", there is very little science on this subject published in English. So every tidbit is welcome. As to the results: remember that a slow pull is NOT very representative of a real climbing fall. After all, we generally do not try tp lift cars from our anchors. The forces may be the same, but the rate of energy dissipation matters. This is especially true for dyneema, which is sensitive to heat. Anyone know of any tests just like this one, but with a sudden, realistic "fall" instead of a slow pull? (It could still be true that the setup works, but it would be nice to see it confirmed.)

I would bypass the demaged part of the sling with a butterfly knot. That should be better than an overhand. May be worth a test anyway...

A common UK and Euro system for two points is a sling with overhand in the centre. The biner then clips through both loops created and each loop goes to an anchor. Can you test that? Could you do a pure girth hitch test? Say, to a harness belay loop?

You can switch off the fluorescent tube light for slow motion to avoid the blinking.

I would want do see the girth hitch with a sliding X. It's supposed to not slip when one side gets cut even on dynema(?)

The cut on the outer red didn't reduce the strength because that red is just Nylon for color. Dyneema doesn't accept dye well, so the manufacturers add nylon strands to color different sling lengths differently. The second one wasn't a cut of half the strands, so again I'd expect less strength reduction than an overhand knot. There was some reduction from the MBS, just nowhere near 50%.

Why I never use knots in anchors

I usually make an anchor with an overhand knot in the middle of the sling and put a biner into the two loops on the left and right side of the knot (not into the knot as it is done for the clove or grith hitch). I always thought that such solution is redundant, especially if you take into account that it is more likely to loose an anchor point instead of breaking the sling. I'm wondering what will happen if the anchor points are bomber and the sling will actually break in the overhand knot. Can you guys check it? That would be a nice addition to the great work you've already done! Thanks!

If you do this again sometime, try rotating the clove hitch 180 degrees so exiting cords won’t stress the the crossing cord. The exiting cords will be on either side of the carabiner, not crossing and pinching the crossing cord. Is this understandable? The crossing cord will be INSIDE the carabiner. The way it was tied in video, crossing cord was on the OUTSIDE of the carabiner. Sorry I didn’t see till a year later.

Hello! Great videos. So does a realistic climbing situation but a consistent pulling force on a girth hitch like this? I imagine a relatively instant force would be on the girth hitch and not a continuous force like your winch.

Someone once told me if you cut a sling by 25%, it's 25% less affective but if you get some sand paper and give the sling a good seeing to it can be 70% less affective

Nylon and cordalette, yes please!

What about testing with a double wrap girth, and double wrap clove- to see if dyneema will still stretch. Still probably takes less material than a bfk, and also is still untieable.

So the only way to get to >4kN once the sling or knot fails is to shock load. How is it going to slip all the way if the shock load is applied for less than a second (ie. shock) and you are testing it to failure with a constant load. Seems to me like you kinda need a new rig with dropping 80kg weights kinda like UIAA/CE ;)

Do this same test but shock loading

nylon slings would be really interesting

It would be interesting to break some of the questionable climbing gear on eBay, you know the stuff under $20 😂.

Thank you for such scientific entertainment!

Nylon slings and chordalette please!!!! I bet there will be an huge difference

The defining different b/w the two measurements is that kN is a dynamic force and the kg is a static force, just plain weight. A dynamic force is a load in motion, in which case small weights can generate very large forces at high speeds (kN), such as in a fall. Which is the very nature of climbing, which is why a dynamic rating is necessary, since you;re not lifting. This is also why a lifting sling is rated in a static load (lbs). One is a fall rating, the other is lift rating. There you go...because...SCIENCE!

Can you test a bowline on a bight as anchor point? Commonly used in the Alps. You directly clip into it, there is no central carabiner.