There is no right or wrong way to put the carburetor on since the vehicle this engine is going and requires the carburetor arm to be on the other side And yeah I know how to take the connecting rod out of an engine that's not a problem it's just when it hasn't been apart and probably 15 years and the varnish in the top of the wrist pin and on the back of the crankshaft is holding the connecting rod from coming off that's the only reason why there was no actual force applied to it And upon reassembly the only reason why I use the pliers because it's a little easier than trying to fumble With it I have several other rebuild videos Where I don't use any pliers at all Also the little bit of solvent that burned off is it going to hurt anything this engine got to about 260° Not even hot enough for the bearings to come out

Thanks man and they are a little ripper for sure!

Glad it helped! And sounds like you got your work cut out for you

Haha right on man glad you liked it!

I guess

They are awesome

@@thebug4046 they really are i have 3 of them

@@GODLIKEZ490 nice i have a handful as well

What are you looking for?

Remove the carb obviously remove the cylinder head warm up around the block put a zip tie through the exhaust port and rotate the flywheel or push up on the bottom of the sleeve with a chopstick don't use anything metallic otherwise you will damage the sleeve do not pry on the sleeve with a flat screwdriver otherwise you will damage it do not grab it with a pair of pliers because you will put it out of round. I have several other videos explaining it. You want to get it around 200°f that will expand the block away from the sleeve and make it easy to come out. But NEVER PRIE WITH A FLAT screwdriver EVER!!

@thebug 404 yeah it's varnished in real good. I'll try the heat method. It's one of my leaning motors so we be alright.

Yes that's the carburetor nitro engine are just a 2 stroke engine only different is they run on glow fuel aka nitro instead of gasoline they are not a diesel

force makes the big hpi engines and toki made the 12s and 15s

@@thebug4046 thx for the info👍

heat it back up and drop the bearing back in. it's normal for it to fall out when the block is heated up.

Derrick Zanni phew thanks for the quick reply I will heat it back up and drop the bearing back in

@@nitrogas5719 put your crankshaft in the freezer first for 1 hour before you heat the block it will go back in easier I have video on how to do that

Probably 2.5MM

No water! use brake parts cleaner to clean everything and use a real oil like golden spectro 2 stroke oil to put your engines together with. Just don't add it to your fuel. .. I have video explaining everything

Oh okay and thanks bud I’ll try to check out your other video, thanks so much for the great info I really do appreciate it

@@thomashewittknewit5510 no worries buds KBN!

I believe they are their own company i have a hobao 21 P6 and it's a real firecracker!

@@thebug4046 ok makes sense since they feel like they are pretty decent quality for the money.. Deff gonna keep my eye out for them.. Lately I've been on a SH craze. Lol

@@rcaddictgarage SH is great i run and have run lots of it over the years

On what engine?

It would be easier if you joined my rc group on Facebook Nitro Rc enthusiasts. Be sure to answer the 3 questions and post a video. I can't see what you're dealing with so I can't really help you much here. I'm an admin in the group

@@thebug4046 The 2.5

@@markgibbs5330 definitely hit up the group

Thank you! I really appreciate it 🍻🍻💥💥

love your videos your helping me alot with rc nitro motors

@@davidwright4460 right on man im glad! The sad part is there so many KZfaq's out there that put out absolutely false garbage videos or click bait you Into some other garbage I like to put it right to the point truthfully and cut the bullshit.

great Job mate

Yup