I have many machines, what a silly question to ask a sewer! Lol

You can never have too many beautiful sewing machines. Patience is paramount.

Thank you for sharing. Anyone can learn to sew! Well, except maybe for me, LOL.

I have one setting in the LR at this minute. It seems to be my go to machine.

You have great taste in sewing machines Kelly. You picked a winner when you paid for yours!

I recently found this machine in a second hand shop. I'm definitely buying it. Thanks for the information.

That was good money back then.

I just found a sewing table that works with it!

Thank you I just joined

I just bought one of these for 30 at my local thrift store and am trying to figure out how it works

You can purchase a PDF of the original user manual online. This would go a long way in helping you learn the various aspects of the machine.

Couldn't agree more!

Sounds like you got the better deal there Robert!

I agree with your description. This series of Kenmores are one of my favorites when it comes to vintage multi-stitch machines.

Glad you enjoyed it

Glad you enjoyed it!

Your are most welcome and THANK YOU for a wonderful testimonial on how long these machines last!!!

Very cool. Your Grandmother had great taste in machines!!

Thanks for sharing Janice. It is always helpful to hear from someone who has owned a machine since new and can testify to it's durability!

i also am a bicentennial grad and have sewn all those years in Florida!!

Thanks for watching!

Glad you like them!

Sounds great!

How great that you enjoy BOTH brands of machine. I must agree with you that, while all oscillating hook machines such as the Bernina make SOME noise, the Berninas, along with the Necchis, are some of the quietest oscillating hook sewing machines ever made. Berninas do make lovely stitches and are strong sewers in their own right which helped earn them their reputation. However, I feel the Kenmore is the equal in terms of quality, long life, and are far easier to overhaul and care for than Berninas are. Thanks for sharing

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I don't usually overhaul machines - try to bring a few back to life, like my current White 764 which needs the upper tensioning taken apart (any hints?) - but will agree that the Kenmores are easier to work on in general - and less expensive, too! What I have found I really like as a general rule for older Berninas is the foot controls (cannot speak for any past 930) are more subtle. Older Singers, too, are a real pleasure. Anyway - Happy New Year - looking forward to seeing more of your videos. Oh, do you take on repairs? I am in CA. TIA!

How fortunate you are to have so many feet for that machine. Those are worth quite a lot; possibly $250-$500 depending on the foot style!!!

What a bargain!!! Try searching on Ebay, Etsy, or Bonanza.com They do turn up on occasion.

I have not overhauled this specific model but it shares a lot of its design with the 158.1705 series that I've restored many examples of. These are the two-tone/Green/White models that I enjoy working on and so the 1303 would share some of the same design. Yours should be of similar quality which is excellent. Sears had a LOT of models in any given year due to how big a player they once were in sewing machine sales.

Very cool!

Actually, the entire machine was 'over' engineered compared with modern machines. The motors are excellent but were sourced from Japanese manufacturers who also sold them to many other brands.

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I wish they would over engineer things these days so we can actually get our moneys worth

Sewing machine makers, particularly Singer and the White company (who made Kenmores for decades), tended to not fix what was not broken. Sewing machine buyers were often loyal to certain brands; having learned to sew on their family's machine. It also helped to control costs given the investment it took to retool a factory for a new model of machine. Of all the sewing tables that I have ever rescued and later sold, the one that I absolutely wish I had kept was one like you describe from the 1940s. It was for a 1942 Kenmore made during the war. That table and machine is the one I rescued from a barn surrounded by hay and goats!!! Once I had cleaned it, removed some latex paint that had spilled on it, the Walnut or maybe Rosewood was stunning. It literally glittered in the sun. So yes, you 'could' buy fancy things at Sears were you willing to pay the breathtaking price for such a fine example of cabinetry. Here is the link to a video made of the machine and you can see the table I'm referring to: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ntxyjc6Xyri8gGQ.html

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage The machine from the pulley assisted case is Kenmore 117.959, which, as far as I can tell, puts it's production year at or around 1948. The cabinet is blonde with a knee control (which I prefer to a foot control) and I assume it came with the machine but who knows. It was also a rescue, from the curb in front of a house that was being gutted out. So, a little newer and a little less interesting than the one in your linked video, but it's still a great machine that didn't deserve to die in a landfill. I appreciate what you do and firmly believe that everyone should own an old sewing machine, or five

Lol spell check... SEWN BOAT SEAT COVERS (sails too)

Funny you mention that as one of the first of these I ever restored was sold to a client who used it to sew vinyl seat covers for their boat. FYI, I don't recommend using them for commercial production work but some folks have had success with one-off projects like that.

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage my dad was a boat builder and one of the first ppl to build airboat in Florida. So my stepmother and I made seat covers for most any kind of seats .. a lot of the early ones were school cafeteria chair that the legs got bent or broken lol springs on the bottom were luxurious in the day. I still use that machine all the time.

When the issue is tension on the bottom thread, my first thought on what to check is the upper thread tension which you mention having checked. A few things to also look into: 1. Take out your upper thread and needle. Install a new needle and re-thread the machine. It is very common to miss a spot and even one thread guide missed can upset the whole applecart; so to speak. 2. Have the timing checked by a local vacuum/sewing center tech if you have one. 3. When you reinsert a new needle, double check behind yourself to be sure that the needle is properly installed in the right position because while the Kenmore you see in this video threads from front to back, yours might or might not, but a manual will tell you for sure. Also, be sure when installing that new needle that you don't let it slip down any while you are securing the needle thumb screw. If the needle is not inserted all the way til it stops vertically and held in place, it can slip a bit which will also throw off the timing of when the needle picks up the bobbin thread.

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thanks for taking the time to help me out. I'll double check the things you mentioned. I do have the manual and the needle is threaded accordingly (front to back). Sometimes the top thread gets wrapped around the bobbin which locks things up and has to be cut to free things up. Could I have a defective shuttle? I will change the thread and needle as you suggest. The nearest repair shop is 60 miles away and after talking to them they said they have 85 machines ahead of me. Again, thanks for the help.

Those little 'Mini Kenmores' are lovely. If you find one and consider purchasing, just be sure to check the selector knob that sits atop them. These are known to crack and break on occasion.

Thanks for sharing. There are videos online from others that have methods for restoring oxidized plastics such as those on some of the 80's sewing machines. I have not tried those options so cannot speak to their success or not. But even it its yellowed, scratched state, I would hold onto that case as they are hard to find; in part because many got separate from the machines they were sold with.

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I am. I repaired a stress crack inside on one of the support ribs with the superglue/baking soda method, to keep it from becoming a problem. I plan to attempt retrobrighting it sometime this spring (will attempt to do it on the inside, just in case this isn't a good thing for this type of plastic). If it works, it will be video documented. If not, I will be taking plastic grade paint to it, and restoring it that way (possibly giving it a very different look, depending on my mood). It's funny that the case is so badly yellowed, yet the machine's exterior plastics are as true in colour as the day it was unboxed. No complaints here., Still, it would have been nice to have the cooler bed free arm and chrome accents. The 1941 just looks better all-around. One question, if I may? My machine was built in 1975 according to the Kenmore website, but the model number isn't exact to what is listed. It says it was a 1975 build, but my model is off by a touch. Any idea as to how I can identify exactly when it was made? It's also not listed as Made in Japan, rather, it's Taiwan. Someone told me through Pattern Review that anything not manufactured in Japan is a much "lesser" build quality. I'm confused by this as I've been through this machine thoroughly, and it is definitely completely made of metal, with the exception of the cam array up top of the machine. And that array is in perfect condition, made with a much more durable plastic than some I've seen in my travels. It's free of petroleum grease as well (which you'd know better than anyone would break down certain plastics over time). I did find petroleum grease in the crank case, but it was still quite viable, and the gear setup is fully metal, so I left that where I found it. I'm about to do a stretch polyester lace repair for my sister on an undergarment. This was a complete nightmare on all of my machines the last time I took something in on it. My Singer 9960, Janome HD3000 (which I learned the other day, along with ALL modern Janome/Kenmore machines are nightmares to sew certain types of stretch fabrics on), the old Singer Starlet (1978, built in France) and the Kenmore 27 (1990 Janome built, one step from the top of the line, the Kenmore 30 mechanical series). I bought this machine when I learned my so-called "Heavy Duty" machine was a post 2018 build, and wasn't even a model HD3000. I had never expected/intended to use this machine as a Sailrite or H9. I did, however expect it to sew as well as older Kenmore hybrids. I learned one day when the needle sank into an 8 layer thin stretch denim stack and didn't come back up without being hand cranked that this model sports a pathetic and fully anemic 0.5 amp motor that Janome "treated" so that it would deliver 860 stitches per minute. This explained why the pedal was so hyper-sensitive to pressure being applied to it. I had a tough time sewing slowly on this machine as opposed to a Kenmore 27 that I shoe-horned a 0.7 amp motor into, but is still sporting it's original carbon disk sewing pedal. They also "lightened" things up when they treated this bait and switch junk motor by putting a very thin, prone to breaking down when exposed to heat or UV plastic flywheel inside the motor can, so that it would spin at about twice it's design speed. When I opened that can up and found this, I also saw that the commutator was caked in carbon dust from the now half spent brushes (this machine was bought at the end of 2019, and used a total of 10 times, with the last project ONLY putting anything remotely related to a heavier load through it, and was never intentionally gunned). Janome also took key components, once made of hard plastics, very much like what I found in this Kenmore 1251, and replaced them with thin, soft nylon. I'm guessing to lessen the weight being carried by that motor, and to ensure the machine had cracked components rendering it useless (so you'd buy an even more expensive Janome I'm guessing) within 7 to 10 years. Add to that the 5mm Christmas LED bulb lighting harness that, if you blew the LED, could not be changed without swapping out the entire harness or de-soldering/re-soldering after unwrapping and then re-wrapping said harness (IYIYI!) that barely lights the needle plate, put in as a replacement for the halogen that used to go with this model, so that all available power, which is nearly 0.5 amps, could be shoehorned into the machine's motor. I dunno, last time I checked, speed did not equal torque. I put a 0.7 amp motor into the machine, and boy, did that machine perform. That stack I could not sew out of, it went through it like it wasn't even there. In fact, that Kenmore 27 (which had a 0.5 amp motor, tired before I refurbished it), while is struggled a little, sewed through the stack the compromised Janome motor could not. That motor, in both machines, same model number, same everything except the flywheel. The Kenmore has an aluminum cast flywheel, which is sturdy and dependable. Like my Kenmore 1251, I refurbished the Kenmore 27, cleaned and polished (and fresh brushes swapped out for old) the commutator, etc. The machine, motor and pedal completely overhauled, and woke the machine up quite a bit. Once I confirmed the mechanical components in this machine were the same materials and configuration of a few 0.87 amp motor-fitted models (the Janome Decor Excel is identical except for the camstack, a few more stitch variations), I threw 0.7 amp motor into it, and the machine went from being a utility grade only machine to a bit of a beast. If it had the things I needed from my HD3000, mainly the 7 pin feed dog arrangement and extra high presser foot capability, I would have kept it and sold my Janome. As it stands, one more machine to take on the upholstery fabrics and denim recycle projects isn't such a bad thing. By the time I finish, the Janome will be general purpose only, the Singer for specialized projects requiring more precision sewing, and the Kenmore 1251 for the tougher stuff. The other Kenmore went to the missus, to replace her old Starlet, which I refurbished and gifted to my sister, as she needed a basic zig zag machine, nothing more. And to your video series on the 1241...I thank you kind sir. You gave me the impetus to seek out and attain an older Kenmore. And you were SOOOOOOO right on these unsung work horses being a great all-around sew. Sometimes, an "inspiration" (copy) can be as (or almost) as good as the original Thank you Bernina! LOL. That Janome sews a good stitch, and it could take some weight, but clearly, this bait and switch setup did the former model no justice. I'm currently waiting on a .87 amp motor (which is what the HD3000 originally had in it, and when it finally gets here, will be ripping the internals out and replacing all of the compromised gears, linkages, etc with the stronger plastics I have in my spares. I only wish I could get my hands on an older camstack array for this 18 stitch sequence. Then I would at least have the machine I thought I was paying for,. Not have to worry about this hybrid being anything less than the Kenmore/Janome machines I've grown to respect would also take a bit of the sting out of being conned and ripped off by both my dealer and Janome. While no one would be fool enough to say a 1983 Kenmore is the same in durability as a 1973 Kenmore, the fact that the hybrids are still going all these decades later (save for the odd reverse issue from gummed up grease) is a testament to how well balanced and the build quality, despite the plastics, Janome engineered into their product line. I bought this Kenmore to take on the jobs this gutless wonder clearly cannot handle without killing the parts inside. Considering the Janome cost two to three times as much as their competitors offerings in the same class of mechanicals, it's a very big deal to those that trusted the brand, only to find out that at that high end price, they got a low end machine.

I have yet to access a service manual for any Kenmore. I sense this is due to the fact that Sears serviced what the sold. I would like to come across one myself. Perhaps try one of the Kenmore sewing groups on FB or online blogs where vintage sewing fans hang out. Let us know if you find one!!

Hi MQ. Most of these Kenmores I get are in exactly the same state as you describe yours being in so its actually quite common. Here are a few videos I've made showing the various areas of the machine for oiling. I would suggest using a flashlight to shine down from above when oiling the metal linkages behind the knobs that you can access from above and some even below. It can sometimes be helpful to use Penetrant products and a little heat. You can search the channel for those specific videos. Here are the links for the views on the Kenmore I mentioned. I may have others as well but these come to mind. Also listed here are how to take off and put on the lower tray. I have other videos on this Kenmore series as well as I obviously and a fan of this generation of Kenmores. Hope these are useful for you. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y5qFd8VhxLGUcqs.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n6uPdZSnvK3Lmnk.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y5qFd8VhxLGUcqs.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aKiUhtOVqLy4lmw.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fJ9kfNSmzr_Pd30.html

I didn't need the manual but that is only due to my having worked on lots of these in the past. Kenmore manuals can be easily found online in PDF form which you can pay a nominal fee for and then keep the PDF as well as print it out. Having a manual is VERY WISE to help learn how to use any machine.

Sorry to hear that Debra. If it is any consolation, I had a friend who live in LA and there was an earthquake that shook everything in their home; including their (unmounted) ancient Roman glass collection which fell to the floor and smashed like any glass would. Sigh.......

I tried years back to sell on Ebay, but shipping the the HIGH likelihood of damage dissuaded me. I only sell locally which is great since people can always 'test drive' any machine they get from me so they know it suits them and their sewing style. I've received a lot of offers to buy machines from people as far aways as Hawaii but it just is not practical for both damage and cost reasons unfortunately.

Oh yes; those 1931 versions are the same machine essentially, but with the added option of additional decorative cams. These were likely higher in price than the 1941 as they added even more features. Whether the extras were used in a whole other question. But yes, these are the equal to the 1941's as they are based on the same machine.

The best option in this case would likely be to search for an original seam guide even if you have to purchase the whole guide. I've done this before when I needed something that was super hard to find.

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage oh I could likely not source the original. the knock off is knocking off a pretty obscure japanese seam guide from the 1950s that are more or less hens teeth now, and may well have originally shipped with a bedscrew with a longer shank for all I know. I've only ever seen one original for sale in the states. I'll just have to keep screwing around. Thank you very much for your response though, I do very much appreciate it!

I don't mind being 'bugged' about it Ronald :-) Hope springs eternal as they say and so next summer, I will try again. I only attempt trying to fix that disaster of a machine outdoors!! As for the screws on the Kenmore table, I've never gone searching for one. My default strategy for odd item searches is: Ebay, Etsy, and Bonanza.com

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thanks for your reply. Hope you have a healthy and Happy New Year.

Well, naturally, as soon as I sent my request you give the model number. 👍

I love your taste in machines 'historygradstud'

You are wise to ask this because there came a time in the late 70s/early 80s when machines began to show some plastic in their drive train components. But for those two models you listed, they are each all steel!!!

I have the Kenmore 158.19461 in a table. Is it in the all steel category?

Thank you Mark. I only sell locally here in Southern Ontario as shipping machines is a very high risk for damage in transit. If you are ever in our area, (Greater Toronto), let me know.

Approx 6:00 pm today 3-17-24

Both of the Kenmore models you mentioned are, compared to modern machines, very well made with 'mostly' metal parts. However, they were likely made after production shifted to Taiwan and thus will have at least some plastic parts such as the stitch selector knob on top which has plastic gear teeth. These are models that I refer to as "Hybrid" as they were produced right at the time when machine producers were just starting to cut corners. By contrast, the 158.1941 was one of the last 'ALL METAL" sewing machines. The Kenmore you have and that 1525 model can still be good workers for you and may have lots of life left if treated more gently when using the stitch selector. However, for what I consider to be truly "Heirloom Quality", the 1941 would be one of the last produced at that level.

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thank you so much for the helpful detailed reply. Much appreciated. My 148.1311 machine has 'made in Japan' on it. Is it possible it's one of the last before hybrids/Taiwan? I'm going to hold out for a 1941 for my next purchase. Hopefully one will cross my path soon.🤞 Thanks again!

Wonderful and the equal to the one you see in this video but a flatbed version of the 1931 as it allows decorative cams to be used in addition to the built in utility stitch cams. Notice that the 1803 has the little groove in the top for the top thread. This was also a mimicking of a Bernina design.

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I'm glad I bought one when I did. Came as a complete set with all the cams and feet options, embroidery set etc.... $100 CAD. It was a classic case of someone bought it and it sat and sat. It too does need some love but otherwise cosmetically it's as new.

These machines used what Sears called, Super High Shank. There are adaptors to convert to the use of low shank feet. How well this would work with something like a Low Shank Walking foot attachment is unclear. I don't know if Sears ever offered a Walking Foot in the Super High Shank style. In some sewer's experience, walking feet attachments have limited success but maybe the do work well for some folks. Your best bet would be to order a Super High Shank to Low Shank adaptor (sold on Ebay), and then search for a Low Shank Walking Foot; assuming it would work as I cannot be sure.

I'm in over my head sorting through all the options of walking feet for my Kenmore model 158.1913. This machine does everything but quilting, it seems. I would fully support a video of your exploration of this!@@VintageSewingMachineGarage

While not as robust as earlier Kenmore models, yours, which dates from circa late 1970's/early 1980's is far superior to most new machines sold today. I would be proud to own and use it if I were a sewer!!

Its hard to say without seeing the machine given how many potential causes there can be. Your machine was likely made in Taiwan and while not ALL METAL, they are pretty robust by today's standards. I would seek out a local Vacuum-Sewing repair center and see if they can sort out some of the issues. For videos here, I would look at the ones I've made on the Kenmore 158.1941 as this is the closest model I have showcased next to yours.

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I was told no to get rid of my machine because is metal is heavy was made in Japan. Thank you for the tips I will look for repair center.

Try the top tension at 4 and the tiny bobbin tension screw with minimal tension. So the bobbin, hangs in the air, while holding the string.

More videos on this will follow.

Try searching bonanza.com I have found spare parts for a number of my machines there.

Try Ebay, Etsy, or Bonanza.com

I gave up on the 158.17851 and bought this machine for $200.00 from the repair man

Most commonly, you will find them at sites like Ebay, Etsy, Bonanza or locally at sites like Craigslist or Kijiji (Canada)

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I’m still learning on the 158 because I can’t seem to get the tension right on this machine and the cord keeps punching up on the bobbin so I’m still trying to learn how to adjust that. I wish they had a tutorial on specifics instead of just generalizations