It's just old in the context of constantly reviewing the latest newest road bikes that's all

A 7 year old bike is basically new to me. My road bikes are 25 and 22.

As an older 'enthusiast' (regular social bunch rides), I would absolutely love a mid level carbon, electronic/ disc, tubless, aero bike... if gifted. But, no N+1 budget available here. In all honesty, other than bling, to my world testing, there is little difference in feel between my 2007 Bianchi/ campy record R/B, with Euros wheels to most $3.5-5K bikes.. ( luckily I can just fit 28mm tyres)

@@atilaj4446I agree! CAAD 10 & Tarmac SL2.

@@treygray2817. I hear ya’…I have a lot of bikes; my newest is 12 years old, my oldest is 40!

I've had carbon wheels with rim brakes for years. Even though the brake track is well worn, I don't experience any problems in wet, dry, heat, cold.

@@tfj100 My wet braking performance is much better and more reliable with discs. On most descents, I haven’t worried. Either they aren’t that long, or I was able to let the brakes breathe enough that I didn’t worry. One particular local descent goes on for miles, is steep and exposed, has tight corners, and has crappy pavement with marbles. People say, “you’re not supposed to ride the brakes”, but whenever I would let it roll a bit, it would just get hairier and I’d have to brake more aggressively. I made it down without problems, but that doesn’t mean much. Was I well within safety margins, or was I on the verge of a failure? The problem is that it’s unknowable, and a wheel failure there could send you to your death. Rather than enjoying the descent, it was worrying and stressful. Rim brakes and alloys wouldn’t have worried me, nor do discs. Note that racers used rim brakes on tubular rims (and generally have better roads and risk higher speeds than I would.) We morals ride clinchers. With tubulars,the thickest part of the carbon is at the braking surface, and the pressure in the tire is contained. It’s not pressure on the rim. With clinchers, the braking surface is on the thin flanges of the wheel, and the 100psi or so is pushing those flanges outward. So, high heat, thin material, and high pressure, all in the same area. Bad combination. On that descent, I took multiple breaks to let the rim cool. It’s disquieting, given that I would be unlikely to get any helpful feedback until the wheels fail or warp. Not everyone has a descent like that in their backyard. I do, and I prefer to ride it without worry.

Two summers ago I blew up a tyre going on a long undulating downhill while on carbon rim-brake wheels on tubeless tyres. The rear rim got so hot from constant braking that once I locked it up on a fast descent, the tyre blew up. Needless to say I slid on the asphalt for about 10-15 metres resulting in a large road rash all over my left thigh, butt, and forearm ... and the frame was covered in sticky slime. These were quality Flo wheels with proprietary brake pads ... So, carbon rims and brake pads are not a good match ...

@@g.d.1722 This is exactly the risk. Rim brakes and carbon wheels are a good match until the split second they are not, and there’s no way to know that you’re reaching the limit until you’ve crossed it. Glad you are okay, with injuries, but ones that that heal.

Swissstop black prince carbon pads are pretty good in the rain compared to other pads. Terrible compared to disc brakes obviously but they also perform as good as any brake system in the dry. They’re a bit expensive but you get what you pay for with brake pads

I miss my CAAD4!

Aliexpress waiting for you 😅

I think deep rims look ridiculous on any bike!

I complitly agree. I've got a Colnago super, Saronni red, steel frame from the 80's.. The thing was ugly until i buy 2017 Campagnolo Bora Ultra.. Now it is the best looking bike on earth

@@stuka78 explain please, Are those safe?

Have you watched the video? He states otherwise. I find no reason to distrust him.

I think we are in agreement. Of course he is doing it for the views. It is his job! But he is not getting paid by Hunt to test these wheels, or by Cannondale to showcase this bike. He even made an effort to measure the objective improvement to the bike's performance, which is really nice.

@@veganpotterthevegan yes I am aware but its his job, content creator. Nothing shady about that. You work, you get paid...

We agree to disagree. Time to move on

I have a CAAD9 and you hurt my feelings

Exactly the same experience for me. My stock wheels felt like riding through treacle whenever the road pointed upwards. Getting lighter carbon wheels with better hubs mean I get further up the hill before running out of the speed I'm carrying, I can be a gear or two harder for the same speed, an I roll downhill a LOT faster. I routinely out-roll heavier riders even though I'm very tall but skinny and lightweight. No regrets.

What bike and wheels did you install the Roval 38s?

Don't do that, you'll go faster if you don't, because you won't slow down 🤔

Spot on my friend

@@peterquest6406 Right, my mistake

And be careful when descending in hot climates. Carbon wheels and rim brakes can get very hot which can result in your inner tube exploding and or even rim damage.

you guys acting like he hasn’t been cycling for years and years 😂

Glad you like them!

Glad you like them!

@@veganpotterthevegan LMAO how do they perform better? they are not any stiffer and are def not lighter..... Jonas is still winning the tour by 7 minutes if he was riding this bike

@@veganpotterthevegan LMAO im not talking about a time trial, a bike frame has little to zero effect on actual aerodynamics the only thing worth a damn are the wheels and maybe handlebar to a small effect

@@veganpotterthevegan yes it makes no difference racing you are delusional if you think otherwise

He said these weren't too bad. Besides, being blown around doesn't happen every ride. It rarely happens unless you live somewhere that is consistently very windy

Disc brakes!?

Placebo gainz👍

Any classic Ti road you could recommend?

@@mickaellandau1489 I should clarify, by classic I mean classically styled. Ribble seems a great brand and one am seriously looking at for my next bike.

@@originalkontrol looking at falkenjagd or lynskey at the moment

Yes I get that. I stopped spending $$$ on cycling stuff I also stopped riding

The bearings will make no measurable difference.

Will do :)

I’d say check out the win space Lun, elite marvel, or light bicycle. I’m looking at these for a 2011 Cérvelo myself 🤔

I was wondering this, myself. Put the numbers on there backwards, perhaps?

And now the new entry level disc bikes are mechanical and to get hydro you have to pay like $2k it's stupid.

Tubeless is pretty much the same rolling resistance as the same model clincher with a latex tube. Unlikely to see more than 6 watts or so against a pair of butyl tubes, at least at sensible speeds.

I think you are misinformed. Change to $5 Ridenow tpu inner tube, and you are getting the same performance as tubeless if not better.

@@williamko4751 Compared to the butyl inner tubes he was running.

@@veganpotterthevegan I didn't even check for the tires. I just assumed he used the same ones. That would render the test completely useless.

The dropout standard is the reason why I wouldn't pick a CAAD12 Disc. I'm OK with both brake types, but even if the CAAD12 Disc uses thru-axles on both the front and rear dropouts, I'd still take the rim brake version as it doesn't look right with disc brakes. 😅

That’s what’s puzzling to me. I get the impression that carbon wheels are really a bling factor. Also no matter how much I search for a comparison between disc brakes vs aluminum alloy rims for stopping. I hadn’t noticed any.