You're welcome and thank you.

It's nothing new actually, just not well known, walnut blasting is an alternative to sand blasting when you want to be more gentle. I only learnt about it around 6 months ago and there is no one in my whole town who offers it.

For us, future drivers, certainly new 😉 I found out about it thanks to you and really appreciate it as I may pass it on to my friends with cars. And it looks someone can possibly think about opening new business in Colchester... I wonder if they offer that service in my town 🤔

Good luck.

Yes it's great to have it running like new again.

@@ConquerDriving hi there, watched your engine carbon cleaning video and this now. Both really good. How much did it the walnut blasting cost and would you still recommend it 2 years on? I've been seeing garages charging £500 even for a small 2.0, 4 cylinder engine which I think it's a bit of a piss taking considering what's involved. Thank you.

Yes it worked great, all misfiring and hesitation gone and it feels quite quick even after getting out of the VX220.

Thank you, I was interested too.

Thank you. I haven't time to think about patreon, but thank you again.

I think given that the CRC stuff is £40, I would rather just get them properly cleaned for £300 when they're bad instead of buying several cans of that stuff.

Conquer Driving Interesting. It’s only the equivalent of 15 GBP here per can, so that, once a year, isn’t too bad, considering how much we spend on other parts of our cars, eg premium fuel, synthetic oil, etc.

That's correct, Toyota normally get things right.

Took him about 1.5 hours in total.

@@ConquerDriving thank you

I did spray it directly onto the throttle body. The hole I sprayed it through was directly above the throttle body.

@@ConquerDriving think he meant the valves

but locally it is not available. Would any1 recommend other alternatives

You do have to travel sometimes, it's worth it. I've tried alternatives which didn't work. I have videos on them.

It sounds like you have the same problem. Very common with these engines. The hot weather won't be helping it. The fuel economy never changed. I would guess the hot weather would be increasing fuel consumption with the AC working harder. I would recommend you get a specialist to do the work. Much easier if you can if it up and get under the car.

I didn't really noticed an improvement with with hydrogen cleaning.

You're welcome.

😄

I have heard they do but have not had experience with this.

I haven't tried the 125bhp variant. My economy ranges from 35mpg in stop start town driving to 50mpg if I take it on a long run.

I've taught previously in diesels for 5 years and now 8.5 years with petrol. In my opinion petrol is easier to teach in. It stalls gently, therefore not scaring my pupil, my petrol is way more flexible in gear choice, so if my pupil gets the wrong gear is not usually a big deal. I don't have a Diesel particular filter to worry about any more, the engine is smoother and more refined making it a nice a place to spend time, I only lose 7 miles per gallon but my petrol has a solid flywheel which is way cheaper and unlikely to go wrong unlike a dual mass flywheel which is fitted to most diesels. When I used to start the diesel up in the garage, if I didn't move it immediately I would feel ill which tells me something about what it kicks out the tail pipe. Then there is the fact I just enjoy driving manual petrol cars, I prefer diesels to be automatic. I'm not against diesels, I bought my other half one as it suits her circumstances, but even though the improvement in economy seems to suit my circumstances, after 6 years of using two I decided they're not for me (the first year with a diesel was before I was an instructor hence why I've been teaching for 5 years in diesels but I drove them for 6 years). Also, I've been told diesels suffer with blocked intake valves too, although I've not experienced it.

Thanks for responding. That was really useful. Think I'm going to switch to petrol after reading your response. You are right about stalling in a diesel, it's brutal.

Do you fill up with E5 or E10 by the way?

I've always bought the cheapest I can find. It's not relevant to the rear of the intake valves as fuel doesn't touch them in a direct injection engine. Even cheap fuel seems to clean things well though. I used cheap fuel in my VX220 with a very modified engine that breathed a lot of oil, yet the intake valves were kept very clean by the cheapest petrol blowing into them.

Thanks for taking the time to reply. I Didn't realise that about the cheaper fuel Have been using E5 for my petrol car thinking it would help prevent less carbon build up. You seem to quite knowledge about cars. I'm still impressed with how many miles you have got out of your Leon. Mine is a 63 plate as well, but it's the 2.0 184 diesel. It's only done 40k and has started lossing coolant. I've taken it to a trusted mechanic who has added a dye, done a few pressure tests, and he can't find it anywhere. It's to drop off at below the minimum mark every few hundred miles. This seems to occur when it goes through a DPF clean. I top it up and then it's fine for a couple of weeks, then uses a load more. Heating and air con running as normal. Recently the clutch pedal has started playing up, occasionally it gets stuck half way up, I then place my foot under it to pull it back up and it's fine. I have also had this looked at, the clutch itself is fine, the clutch slave is also fine. It's had full service history, and well looked after like yours, cambelt, water pump all changed according to the manufacturer's guidelines. Being a diesel it's always had a good blast on the dual carriageway a couple of times a week. Thinking of switching to a 2017 2.0 tsi, 13k from new, one owner, four services from Seat, but then I've read horror stories about clutches going at 20k, and more coolant issues. I know you have maintained your car very well, but could it just be luck that you got a 'good one' off the assembly line?

Possibly. Very expensive though.

No need to do that, they're rubber.

I believe I mention it in the video. They're in Chelmsford.

@@ConquerDriving thanks. some suppliers I contacted said their equipment (the vacuum hose) are specifically made for BMW (or German cars) hence will not do other cars. Don’t know whether SEAT count as German tho, will check them out!

@@tony199110 you don't have to have the exact tool, I think they used BMW tools on mine.

Seat is a german car. It's owned by vw and they use vw engines

Not on this car.

Intake valve walnut blasting adaptor and wand.

@@ConquerDriving where can I get it?

Bálint Rácz just google walnut blasting machine, you also need an air compressor. I think its the same machine used for sandblasting, except you need an adaptor which fits to the intake, and ground walnut shell to put where the sand would normally go

It was a kit for BMWs.

My car now has 175,000 miles, still has loads of power and seems ever so slightly more economical. Lockdown means it has less miles than it would have had but I have a lot of faith in the engine as it seems to be strong, smooth and quiet. Another cambelt change is nearly due and I'll service it soon. Been serviced every 18,000 miles with long life oil. Just spent £575 upgrading the stereo to a system from a 2020 Leon with android auto as I tried many cars over the last couple of weeks but the new stuff hasn't moved the game on, they drive the same albeit with adaptive cruise control which is something I would like. But not worth the cost of a new car. New Leon, Golf and A3 don't look as good as the last model in my opinion either. The Mazda 3 however was lovely if a little underpowered even from the 186ps skyactiv x engine, lacks torque and my Leon feels way faster on the road. But the Mazda is a luxurious place to sit. The 200,000 mile number you hear quoted on motor reviewer etc is just a made up number in my opinion. Not many people have tested these engines over that distance as the car will be 20 years old normally by then and this engine was released in 2013.

@@ConquerDriving I am really looking forward to the 2022 Toyota GR86. A little worried about the longevity of my GTI and thinking the NA boxer engine might last long into the future, once gas vehicles are banned.

Keep changing the oil when needed and cam chain if it's an EA888 and I'm sure it will last as long as you want it to. Especially if it's standard.

Yes, very common on those, there are special wands available for that engine. I believe that engine isn't used by BMW amongst others.

@@ConquerDriving I was told it is shared on some bmw minis

Yes. In extreme cases it will stall. Misfires (lumpy idle) is more common.

Be interesting to know the price.

@@ConquerDriving 329 1.4 tsi twincharged

How long did it take btw 👨‍🔧

Jesus, for that price you can get a small air compressor, the walnut blaster, the walnut grounded shells, and a 5gallon shop vacuum and do it your self! And of course the benefits here are that you will then have all the necessary tools to do it again on your next oil change or 10k miles and so on and so on.. and of course you would have a handy air compressor, blaster for rust/corrosion/sludge remover, and a wet/dry shop vac!

I'm afraid I don't know, it was finer than sand but coarser than powder.

A clamp I found on Ebay.

I've not heard of that.

I'm sorry, I don't know.

85000 miles

I know VAG has it's exotic brands too. I was sticking with run of the mill cars.

@@ConquerDriving Oh come one, Bugatti's are everywhere. lol

I've recently discovered that. The cost of the equipment though is prohibitive so it won't become common until it's cheaper.

You are right. I think I added a correction in the video.

@@ConquerDriving Rewatched. You did make a correction. Time for me to get some spectacles. 👍

Now it is 167,000 miles.

2014 SEAT Leon fr 1.4 TSI 140 SC

Google Dukes Park Automotive in Chelmsford.

Very different depending on the garage and the car.

When you consider some people see this after only 30k miles I think it's done well.

@@ConquerDriving 30k is very fast! Mine has done 104k and is luckily still fine, i'm letting it warm up with low rpm but when the oil is warm i push it to redline a couple of times.

I push mine to the red line regularly too. 2000rpm is sedate residential quiet considerate driving. But give me a national speed limit and an open road and I'll enjoy myself.

I tries chemicals and they didn't work. I would be very interested in something that's cheaper easier and does actually work.

@@ConquerDriving Water based Industrial Grade Carbon Remover works very well. It converts carbon buildup to co2 bubbles. It will not work if you don't add water. 20 liters only cost $60 USD.

Isn't that the same as CRC chemical cleaner which is did a video on?

@@ConquerDriving Not sure, I been using that for more than a decade. patents.google.com/patent/US2509197A/en

@@ConquerDriving Cleaning the intake valve only makes engine idle smoother. Cleaning the exhaust pipe makes huge very noticeable increase in performance.