But to be fair. The stalling problem was present before the fire and didn’t change after the fire. So that wouldn’t be the cause. I’m thinking computer now. Just saving up for one.

Yikes engine fire, and still ran after? What caused the fire?

10100rsn might have to try this 2002 Dodge Dakota runs fine but some time when I start it seem to sputter like it don't want to go lose power then I can shut it off restart it runs fine

Does "etc" go up to 2003?

As you see in the video is really what happen in this case but there is a back story. The only reason why I made this video was to document "wet leafs" as the cause of the intermittent stalling in reverse. It was truly wet leafs this time. The back story will make more since as to why "wet leafs" caused this condition. Here's your months salary bet lol>>> Not knowing the back story here could have cost you a month's salary with a betting man. The day before we had installed an A/C Pulley Bypass Adapter because the A/C Compressor and pulley had seized up and caused the engine to stall. We started it up after the service was complete and it ran fine but we didn't do a test drive. I didn't see the need to do a test drive being we had diagnosed it four months prior. The A/C compressor had locked up internally and it spit metal shavings right into the pulley and it was over after that. The next day after the A/C Bypass Pulley repair we got the call about the stalling in reverse. It took the owner over three months to save up the funds to buy the A/C Bypass Pulley Adapter. The owners had left the hood open during that time. We have bad winters here in the Northwest. The owners negligence in this case was really the cause here. They made the mistake of leaving the hood open on an E.F.I. based engine to topside elements at the worst time of the year. I hope the back story helps makes since as to why wet leafs did cause intermittent stalling this time. It's normal not that easy! /K&K Repair

That could possibly being a bad intake sucking the moisture and stalling it out. or leaky injector/seals. Then yiou could get into the world of the IAC, TPS, and MAP sensors. That map reading is really high. I'm willing to bet that their s a bad intake on it. with a vacuum reading that high from the map sensor.

We had a lot of fuel being pulled out, Fuel Trim numbers started (LT was -17) was the only thing we found beside the intermittent stalling. If there was an intake leak MAP would be lower and (LT ST Fuel trims) would be +10 TO +17 for a leaning fuel mixture condition not + -0.0% after cleaning the wet mess. I was hoping for something wrong to, >>>something right

Was it stalling before the EGR was replaced? /K&K

Check your throttle position sensor and map sensor had same issue on my o5 daota

Its what Joshua said, it's the TPS, Throttle Position Sensor. Buy it at your parts store near where you live and buy Standard Electric products because they offer lifetime warranties. My wife's Dakota had a bad TPS and months after replacing it it went bad again. So I was able to get a new one by giving them the old one.

Try some fresh plugs

Did you have any other codes with the PO700. Normally if you have PO700 there should one or two other PO7XX transmissions codes present as well. Did you replace the entire shift solenoid assembly pack or replace just one of the shift solenoids in the pack?

Sounds like you got a coil pak or two grounding out to the cylinder head. Its possible to have this happen with out generating any PO 3XX codes. If this is the case it will feel like a miss but its hi power zapping the entire system. Even if one bad coil zaps the head it effects the fuel injectors, good coil packs, O2 Sensors, map signals, water temp, and much more. After an overheat occurs it is possible to crack the insulator that connects to the spark plug. Seen this a bunch of times in vehicles that use COP (Coil Over Piston) for their ignition system. To find the offending Coil(s) unplug one coil at a time till it does not make a difference on how the engines runs. Pull that coil out and look at the insulator for a white ashy hairline crack where hi voltage could be leaking to the cylinder head. With these engine they like to try to correct when there is an issue thus why it hunts for its idle, surges, and stalls. I would get that radiator in and cooling system bleed before doing any COP testing. If it was running fine before the overheat, then I would start at the ignition system first even know you have replaced the #7 coil. It only takes one cracked coil insulator to have this issue. /K&K

​@@KNKRNR Well after replacing radiator and passing checks then doing deeper diagnose- Turns out (constant P0307) after overheat situation, cylinder #7 compression is 30PSi and doesn't climb after reset. Compared to others (80's+ PSI). Don't see off the bat , any effect on radiator fluid (cap off) while running, no bubbles or overflow (doing it solo). However, spark plug has tar like buildup within 20miles. At this point; assume either Cylinder O-ring is bad or head cracked when overheated. Trade in time? What are your thoughts? Thanks.

We call that a dead cylinder, the build up on the plug is combination of fuel and oil. If the vehicle is clean and in good shape otherwise and the transmission shifts as it should then it may be worth swapping in a good used engine instead of trading in for something else. Swapping in a good used engine is a major job. We rebuild vehicles all the time that have either dead cylinders or weak compression. I would not waste any more money trying to fix the current engine that's in place with low compression on #7 cylinder. It could be a cracked piston, weak or broken rings, or valve train issues, plus it was over heated. To rebuild that engine may cost up to $3,000 to $4,000 dollars were as a good used engine may only cost around $300-$1,000 dollars plus small parts. If you do go the route of a good used engine be sure it has a good story with it. I don't buy any used engines unless it has a somewhat of a provable history. We have a 1996 Dodge Dakota in our fleet that had weak head gaskets, found a good used engine on Ebay for $318.00 Dollars plus $200 for shipping. The donor vehicle rusted the rear end mounts off and was no longer safe to drive. This good used engine only had 128,000 miles on it, 8,000 miles later after the install still runs strong as a daily driver. There are times when a good used engine make sense. If you don't want to install a used engine then trading it may be your next best option. The question is how much do you like the vehicle and is it worth it to you to do a used engine swap on. I hope this information will help you make the best choice possible for your situation. /K&K

@@KNKRNR Thank you for your detailed response. Will start looking for a good used 2017 car.

Yup I have seen a bunch over the years fail either by volume control issue being the most common failure, power cycling on/off, poor FM/AM reception, or it switches radio stations without warning. Rarely do we find it to be anything else but a bad factory head unit. I had radio so bad once in my 91 Dodge Dakota, I had to pull the fuse because the power switch did not work and it would go to full volume mode after hitting a small bump in the road. Its an easy fix most of the time. /K&K

Do you have any PO codes like PO 300-301-302-303-304-305-306-307-308? I'm wounding if you need spark plugs. Low fuel pressure can cause this issue at speed. /K&K

I would go back to basic's with an old fashion compression test. You might be chasing an engine issue. It looks like you changed a bunch parts with no change in symptoms. Do you have any PO codes? If you have no engine codes means all sensors are working and your issue could be mechanical in nature. Braided ground straps are only used for radio noise interference the battery to engine block ground wire complete the engine communication circuits. /K&K

Had the exact same problem it was a bad coil.

To change out the crank & cam sensor your looking at least $300 to $500 bucks. There are four O2 sensor in the system. Each exhaust manifold has one, plus the normal up / downstream O2 sensors for the catalytic converter control operations. /K&K

Do you have PO codes present? Will it run after two minutes if you leave you foot lightly applied on the gas pedal? Just a rough guess but it may be possible your Idle Air Control Motor (I.A.C) is not correcting as needed or some other sensor is giving the computer false information to make idle decisions on. If it will stay running with foot applied and not otherwise then replace the (I.A.C). When you replace the (I.A.C) the engine will not start up right away unless you foot it for a few minutes. The reason for this is the computer needs time to correct the position of the replacement I.A.C. /K&K

@@KNKRNR hey thanks for the reply i sure would like to get it running proper.it had a code that said p113,this i found to be fuel air mixture?i have change it and along with a few others. crk sensor,cam sensor,fuel pump.and two other sensors on throttle body.it will stay running longer if my foot is on the pedle but it but, run down and start to gasp for air and stall.if i new how to put a video up on the problem i would.

Quick test I need you to do is try to start the engine at a 10% to 30% gas peddle input, will it start and will it stay running with gas peddle input? /K&K

Mine was a intake air sensor or something like that. Hope it helps

Map sensor

Yup, wet leafs caused an electrical interference between the coil packs and fuel injectors. /K&K

Did you get new rails or just clean them?

The rain caused My 2003 to stall yesterday I put in a new battery and it cut off on the way back home . I hooked it up to a $ 1000 scanner. it showed no codes tomorrow We will get it running and read the running codes , I will let you know what We. find.

Make sure connections ( plastic) are secure had my plugs installed n mechanic left 1 unsecured went through h ll we had it out that was my only problem

Thank you. I'm having same issues with my 2001 Durango Sport.@@MarkSmith-tc2lu

One year later and all is well. I have had to replace 2 of 8 new coils, so I purchased a new complete set(2023). FYI, disconnect the battery before changing the coils to prevent a P0601 code. Code eventually went away after a few cycles.

Sounds like you have a wiring issues at the connector to the fuel pump or your fuel pump sending unit has a wiring issue to the fuel pump. Those fuel pumps are a complete assembly so if the pump fails or the wiring in the fuel pump sending unit fails you replace the entire fuel pump module. /K&K

You got that right guys. My wife's Dakota, '03 4.7, started with not holding fuel pressure so I bought a new one. With alot of help, we dropped the gas tank and replaced the fuel pump. Its a job I'll never do the same again lol. After everything was done, same problem. But, like you said the fuel pump is a complete unit. It includes the pump, the electronics, AND the regulator. Unfortunately, the fuel pump was faulty out of the box.

Mine also I'm going chevy

Sounds like your torque converter clutch is applying and not releasing when it needs to be off. Like in in a manual transmission if you let the clutch out and the engine pulls down the torque converter will do the same thing if the lock up clutch is applied / dragging at a stop light and it stalls. The valve body solenoid pack can have fluid cross leaks and / or the TCC solenoid is weak a letting pressure by. The tell tale sign is revving the engine up to 3000 rpm in neutral as this would spin the fluid out of the torque converter just enough to free up the torque converter lock up clutch. The line pressure is low in neutral so you don't have a harsh engagement in reverse or drive. You need to have a transmission shop run command on pressure test(s) DBRIII scan tool or equivalent to verify this concern. This is a common issue with the 45rfe transmission during 1997-2004 model years. I wish I could say this was an engine issues but working on these vehicles over the years this transmission concern (TCC applied below 30mph) must be checked first if you have stalling at a stop lights or idle below 600 rpms in gear. I hope this information will help resolve your stalling concern. /K&K

I am having the same issue? Did you ever find out what fixed the problem? Thanks

I can give you some advise but I can't guarantee that is it the problem because each case we find are a bit different. You are resetting the computer by removing the battery cables and it starts up fine after the battery cables are reinstalled? Has anybody ever preformed a simple shake the engine wiring harness around a little bit to see if it stalls? Start the engine cold and shake the battery and battery cables and see if a stall occurs. It stalls the battery cables are to blame. If the battery cables passes the shake test cold then shake test the engine harness cold and see if it stalls. If both battery cables and engine wiring harness passes the cold engine shake test, then retest after the engine is fully warmed up These stalls can be hard to diagnosis, but start here first with a simple shake the wire tests, then let me know if you can cause the stall to occur or not. We can look at some other causes after the harness tests. /K&K

With 4 (O2 sensors) in the feedback system chances of them all being bad at once is really low. Bad O2 sensor generally don't reduce power, they normal kill your fuel mileage. You would need to look at the Fuel Trims to see if the system is running lean or rich to see what the issue is. /K&K

You have A PO307 present after a possible water encounter, Couple issues you should check; 1. Is there water in the spark plug hole? Remove the coil pack for #7 blow out any water in the spark plug hole with compressed air. Water in the Spark plug hole can cause PO307. 2. Water in the coil #7 and harness connections. Spray WD-40 on electrical connection that have had water intrusion. The coils and Fuel injectors each share a common ground wire which can cause issues if water or a moisture conditions are present. 3. Its possible the number #7 coil shorted out and will need to be replaced with a new or used coil from the wrecking yard. After coil service either unhook the battery for 10 minutes to clear the code, or use a scan tool to clear the code. You will know within a week or so if you fixed the issue or not. /K&K

My professional opinion would be take it out back and clip it to the clothesline make sure the engine sides facing down. On a warm sunny day of course. Usually takes an hour or two to dry then you're good to go. You're welcome.

There's a Dodge bulletin about a "harsh clunk reverse caused by either bad drive-line U-joints and/or worn transmission mounts." If the mounts are worn this could cause the transmission to jerk up as reverse engages and will make it feel like a harsh shift that going into forward gears it otherwise would not. I test those by having someone engage reverse while watching the drive-line and look closely at rear transmission / Transfer Case housing, Drive line loading and twist, and rear end u joint at the rear axle input. I would start there first because its the easiest to inspect and rule out. Dodge's have always had a weird harsh reverse but the 45/46RFE was built for softer engagement. If it's so harsh it could spill a cup of coffee going into reverse then next culprit would be reverse input drum (Cushion Plate/Wavy Clip) may have snapped. Forward drive don't use the reverse input drum (Cushion Plate/Wavy Clip) but reverse does if you want a positive not harsh reverse gear shift. Let's hope it's a mount or worn u joint. It's a complete tear down and rebuild to fix reverse input drum cushion plate problem. /K&K

That's great information thank you. My rear u joints do need replacing. either the diff to drive line and/or u joints to transmission or t case whatever. Probably just replace both at the same time once I pull out the drive line. but the harsh shifting seems to be sorta intermittent. sometimes its smooth sometimes its a harsher clunk. drive gear seems smooth. I have an appt at aamco tomorrow morning. Is their any info I need before getting screwed over? IO'\m not a transmission guy lol

Turns out its in my front diff. they said a bearing. That'll make a good video

Good deal I'm glad to hear its front diff bearings and not the transmission its much cheaper to fix. It's a very common repair among all Independent Front Suspensions 4x4 Systems. Those Dodge's are solid rigs, we don't see them come in our shop for general repairs as much as other makes and models. /K&K

Y'all lift it up and confirm their diagnosis. I've seen a lot of misdiagnosis. To confirm that It's not the u joints or mounts of anything.

Map sensor

Will it run with your foot lightly applied on the gas peddle? Do you have the service engine soon light on before you replaced the fuel pressure regulator? The 4.7L V8's can stall for many reason, most of the time there's normally basic item having an issue. These items can be as simple as a clogged air filter, weak spark plugs, carbon built up on the throttle plate, intake air temp sensor sending incorrect information, and common ground wiring issues affecting one or more sensors. Please let me know if it run / idle with your foot on the pedal from 10% to 30% applied. We will go from there as we will need to narrow down possible causes. /K&K

@@KNKRNR yes I replace the map sensor to

Will it run okay with 10% to 30% throttle applied? When was the last time the spark plugs have been changed? /K&K

@@KNKRNR yes and the last time the plugs was changed was about a year ago

Sounds like you have a dead cylinder or two. You need to do a compression check on all cylinders to start with. Normally when we see that either the head gaskets have blown or valves were damage and not closing causing a severe miss and shake. If the valves don't close all the way you won't have the vacuum needed to start without open the throttle up. Compression test will tell if you have dead cylinders or valve issues. /K&K

Replace all your spark plugs

Same here did you ever find the problem 2003 Durango 4.7

If we can't find anything else as to cause, the (PCU, ECM, or SBEC) are the next usually suspects. Cracks in the main board can be difficult to diagnosis. /K&K

Seems like your having some sort of battery cable issues if your having an instant shut down condition. The neg battery seems to be the heavy hitter for this type of issue. If you can turn your battery cables by hand, then there are not tight enough. Dodge -/+ battery cables are problematic for sure. /K&K

@@KNKRNR It's funny because that's exactly what it was. They were corroded so badly I cleaned them off with a wire brush and put them back on really snug. Thanks for replying!

That code PO 0068 makes since being the un-command EGR flow lowered the rate of manifold vacuum (MAP) compared to the incoming Mass Air Flow (MAF) & (TPS) readings that didn't match the engine load. In 2011 the federal gov't told auto makers to fix code issues so you wouldn't get PO Codes that didn't match the emission issue such as yours. You have an old school EGR valve in that 4.7L that wasn't digital. As far as the ECU was concerned the engine was receiving EGR gas as it should. I'm surprised you didn't get a PO170,171 running lean code(s). Happy to hear you were able to trace it back to the EGR valve and solved your PO 0068. /K&K

@@KNKRNR I changed the spark plugs also because they were foul, after I did that, I didnt get p0171 or p0172, I got p0175 along with p0068, I was stomped at first at why changing the spark plugs made it run rich, so I went back to the basics, got my multimeter and checked resistance and voltage to the injectors and coil packs, all 8 passed, noticed the truck act up more at normal operating temp, so I checked intake air temperature sensor, it passed, checked vacuum, and it was very low but steady, so I figured compression is good, just a large vacuum leak, gave the truck a smoke test, no leaks found, so I checked resistance to the egr, suppose to get 6-6.5 ohms at pins 4 and 6, I had 8.9, so changed egr, vacuum was good, truck ran like new, lol maybe I did learn a little something in school

If your having a fuel sync issue you may have a timing chain problem or electrical issue not sensor related. As far as the stalling around corners that sounds like an electrical issue as well. In those cases we check the battery connection carefully. If it stalls around corners most likely there's a wire loose. I have heard of some cases where the computer may have a crack in in the board and it can break a connection long enough to stall but restart once your level again. Those issues are not easily diagnosed without a good scan tool to read live data / PIDS/ wave patterns. /K&K

@@KNKRNR Thanks man for the advice. I checked the wiring from both sensors and they seemed okay. Just to clarify, it'll stall even going down the road strait, pop it in neutral and the truck starts right up again. The battery is new and connections cleaned thoroughly. It runs so smooth in between these events... Could that still be a timing chain... Could it be a fuel pump issue? Also, the hard to start issue.

@@KNKRNR It was the PCM. Thanks for the help

Thank you my goal is to help where I can. On starting issues I can give my best advise but I can't guarantee that it will fix the problem because each case is a bit different. What condition are the battery cables in? Dodges have two main power wires one is used for the starter alone and the other is used for the system power. Sounds like you have the system power okay next. The battery cables must be checked! Sometimes its a simple Pos/Neg battery terminal cable problem that goes over looked. You will have lights but no power will go to the starter. We need to find what is working first; Are the dash lights and warning chimes working as normal beside the no crank no start? Do the headlight come on if so are they bright? 60% of the time we find the starter is bad. Have you had any late or hard Cold / Hot starting problems in the past or current? The starter needs to be inspected closely, we have had cases where the hot post on the starter just broke off and pretty much was working one day and died the next day. People are use to starters giving a warning before they go out, but these newer types don't give much warning if they do at all, but they last for a really long time. Has the starter ever been replaced? Please check these items listed above carefully especially the battery cables and let me know what you find out and we will proceed further from there. /K&K

Keith & Kevin's Repair & Restorations Thank you so much for your response!! I must say it is hard to find anyone that will give this much information online! Anyway long story short I changed all the spark plugs I switched out the fuel pump relay had a friend of mine turn the key well I was under the gas tank to hear of the fuel pump primed it then it turned over so far he keeps turning over but now I have to keep my foot on the pedal because it’s idling not rough but it wants to stall out so I don’t know if that’s because of me not putting in a spark plug in correctly or something more I’m just glad it’s turning over now, From what I have researched it could be my throttle position sensor now or my idle control valve sensor now? Very frustrating as this Durango has ran great every day every minute of the day every year since 2005 when I got it going to take it to the auto parts store in the morning if it makes it and get someone to put a code reader on it I appreciate your response and your suggestions and your input and I will keep you and all you tubers informed of the outcome thanks again!!!

@@BOR1776 do ya have an update??

Haha we were nice to her on this job, we only charged $30 bucks for 1/2 hour of shop vac service. /K&K

@@KNKRNR sad. you didn't need to charge anything. She could go home and vac herself.

Isn't our diagnostic & repair time worth something? Most shops were we live would have charged her $70.00 dollars for computer diagnostics plus another $105.00 for labor for what we did. $30 bucks for a $175.00 dollar repair is not sad, its beyond cheap! /K&K

@@sassylrhg time and diagnostic skills are worth nothing to you I suppose

Most people can't believe that wet leafs caused a this stalling concern, but it was the cause. After we cleaned the wet leafs from the intake manifold she drove the vehicle to Seattle and back (800 mile round trip) with no further issues. /K&K

We didn't change either transmission fluid or filter as this wasn't a transmission issue. The 4/545RFE does have some issues with reverse and stall outs. This vehicle went to Seattle after this repair and ran good there and back which was a 900 miles road trip. /K&K

@@KNKRNR glad figured the stall, i saying when truck stalled on me it was transmission filter sitting incorrectly in the slot which made the truck come to stop lights and yield signs it shut down just some little weird know after you knew it wasnt the trans. Thanx the info on your end

I had a Walmart battery once that would only charge to 12.38 VDC. The battery did last about two years till one day it blew up and split itself in half at the seem. It was a real mess to clean up. This happened about 10 years ago, I'm sure their batteries now are much better today then they use to be. /K&K

@@KNKRNR Johnson Controls or Delphi made it not Walmart...! Read the label on the top of the battery.

I didn't say Walmart made it! /K&K

Agreed, the volt test only goes so far without a load test. /K&K