At 1st glance it looked like Frankenstein's monster, or a bomb from a Hollywood action movie!🤣

always awesome seeing a fellow electrical engineer in the wild 👌

Are you saying the inverter varying the DC current draw from the battery in a way that the BMS is reporting a RMS current on the screen, but it's using peak current draw for over-current protection?

@@jawkeye Yes, the BMS is looking for peak current draw, not RMS.

Your welcome.

Thank you!

Thanks.

Good point, thanks.

Your welcome, and I appreciate the comment.

Thank you.

7.5 comes out cheapest

The weight is a real issue for me. A 5 kWh battery is ideal.

Thank you.

Thanks Joe.

Thank you for sticking with me so long.

Thank you.

How much did I spend to make the resistive load bank? Not sure. I had some of the items already. If you duplicated the build it would probably be about $1,000.

Thanks for the efforts.

​@@DavidPozEnergyholy crap a $1000 bucks! And a week extra of your time.... you sure did go all in and I for 0ne hugely appreciate your effort. So on the battery part to me if it trips at 170 amps then it's a 170 amp battery NOT 200amps like stated. I agree with you that you shouldn't have to change values to get a perceived rating right out if the box and for "real world" applications most of (if not all) are going to be using this for an Inverter, not a water heater or some other resistive load. ❌️FAIL⛔️ A stated but maybe could be modified. I also like the larger than normal clunk from the breaker, very satisfying 😊 1 more thing, weight is a huge factor and this one tips the scales in an unfavorable direction. Most people have their batteries tucked away and for the most part, inaccessible, so you would most likely need an overhead lifting point/device to place where needed... not undo-able but definitely a huge pain in the donkey Thanks for the test and figuring this out for all of us.

@theddeustroyer7632 Thanks for the comment. I'm glad the effort is appreciated.

thanks for your good feedback.

David Se puede conectar a un Inverter Solare 12kw

Thanks. I'll try using my scope to pick it up.

Surely most people will be using this battery with an inverter, so why do they say max output 200 amps when this is not the case. Perhaps they should say max output is 150 amps.

@@trickydicky6788 max output is (most likely) 200A, just like we saw on the video. And like written above, we cannot see the actual current values as the built-in screen refreshes the value maybe once per second, way too slow to catch the actual min/max values which the internal display just averages out.

​@@robertyoung. The inverter is basically making AC power output in "pulses" so it would make sense that the DC amperage coming into the inverter would be coming in pulses as well unless it has some big capacitors to smooth it out.

​@@DavidPozEnergyand do put on a few Farads on the terminals. I own Yosma rack batteries rated for 150 but my load is only 100+A from a 5kW inverter. 3 in parallel and the bunch are happy.

So, I'm not the only one surprised by the results!. Thanks, now I don't feel so bad. LOL

Resistive load is easier basically

Your welcome, thanks for watching and your comment.

Cool. I've been using the EG4 for a long time. If you decide to go that way, would you mind using my affiliate link for Signature Solar? It helps out the channel quite a bit.

Probably because they never worked

Would prefer inductive loads used for tests ie well pumps etc.

Cool. I also have a few videos on my channel building my own batteries.

Thanks. I agree that would be the best way to use these.

I have a hard time installing my 100 pound 5120 KWh batteries. This thing is a beast. It cost the same as 2 eg4. The manufacture should be truthful about what it can pull. At least put and asterisk by the 200amp indicating they tested it with resistive load.

Are *most people* really gettting 33kWh or spending 9k on DIY batteries? I’d think this would be less than most.

@@DmitriyKhazansky For stationary applications 33KWh would be normal don't forget they should be cycled between 20 - 80% DOD for long cycle life so in reality you only use 60% or 20KWh of the battery with an occasional full charge to balance the cells.

Yeah, something is happening. Thanks for watching to the end, I appreciate it.

lol always the end is the best part 200 amp x 0.9 = 180 amps but that may be just a coincidence @@DavidPozEnergy

Thanks for sharing your experience. In some of my testing I had the battery at 100%SOC. What you see in this edited video is a very small fraction of all the testing I went through. I took clips here and there to show the overview of what I went through.

@@DavidPozEnergy Cool. Good review!

I asked them to offer this front panel as a DIY option, but it's not available as of right now. Right now you can purchase the 100A version of the front panel. I made a video on that previously, and I have an affiliate link for it.

@@DavidPozEnergy Thanks David, I love your videos. I feel like Im getting a honest review when I watch your stuff. I did call them and I can confirm they only have the 100amp unit. I needed the 200amp. I do appreciate what you do.

So, I'm not the only one surprised by the results. Thanks.

That would be nice.

It's almost ready for market. All they need to do is change everywhere they write 200 amps , change it to 150 amps, problem solved.

Yes, I plan to make a video once the wiring in done. As of now, the second inverter is on the wall, but not wired.

What you see in the edited version is a small fraction of the testing I did. I've also hooked up my Schneider to this and got the same result at 170A. I tried different loads off of the inverters. But, at some point I have to edit down the weeks of testing into a manageable video.

Lots of great options on the market.

The BMS uses resistors to balance the cells. It will start balancing automatically when the cells are above 3.3V, and to within 30mV. I don't know the brand of BMS.

Look at your electric bill - it tells you what you use each month. You size according to the bill if you want to power your entire house. Size smaller if you want to power on a portion of your house, but in this case your electric bill won't be as useful.

I agree, I run my system with inverters.

Thanks. I loved that scene in the movie too.

I linked to the water heater element in the description. Those simplifpower batteries are great.

I think that was production cost not consumer price.

STC, Standard Test Conditions for a lithium battery is a 0.2C rate (5 hours). I'm not always perfect, because I'll use what I have on hand, but I aim for 5 hours every time.

Thank you!@@DavidPozEnergy

Using what you have is great. I'm glad to hear it's working for you.

Lead-acid batteries won't last 1/10th of the cycles of a LiFePo. Absolutely out of question that they didn't lose any capacity after years (even just a couple) of use if subjected to any meaningful use.

I used lead acid for years, starting with making my own as a child in the 1970s, then reconditioning old starter batteries and etc. Once I tried LiFePO4 I swore off lead. The only advantage to lead is they are so robust. They will survive (as well as they survive anything) cold temperatures, hot temperatures, high loads, severe over-charge, etc. About the only thing where LiFePO4 is more robust is long periods of less than full charge which will sulfate lead-acid. The prices of deep cycle rated lead batteries have gone up so much, a large part likely due to shipping costs, that only the cheapest flooded (i.e. GC-2's) can compete with LiFePO4 on price. LiFePO4 is more comparable to high-end AGM lead batteries, but LiFePO4 is cheaper to buy, 1/10 the price if you get even half the rated cycles to 80% capacity, and works so much better in normal use. Run it down to 20% or even lower every day on a solar system and it won't matter if it doesn't get fully charged again until next summer. LiFePO4 doesn't require refilling and doesn't off-gas hydrogen sulfide and there is no sulfuric acid vapor. LiFePO4 has better charge efficiency, by 20% or more, especially at low rates of charge, which leads to much higher cycle efficiency (70% is typical for lead-acid after a few break-in cycles, compared to 90% or better for LiFePO4). LiFePO4 has effectively a perfect unity Peukert exponent, which means you always get the full capacity not only at the 20 hour discharge rate used to specify lead-acid capacity, but even at a 2 hour and often even 1 hour discharge rate. LiFePO4 has a nearly flat discharge voltage, which makes it almost impossible to tell state of charge by voltage thru most of the capacity, but it means everything runs so much better with that more stable supply. The only lead-acid batteries I use now are starting batteries and small sealed lead-acids in a computer UPS. Both of those need to supply silly high current for short periods of time, and the starter batteries have to supply those currents and charge below 0F in my climate. LiFePO4 is simply not suitable for those uses, yet.

I'm doing testing on the charge controller right now. it's a slow process to test equipment before throwing out a video.

Thanks for your comment, and we will catch the feedback from all clients, and make it easier and perfect to work as wanted to be.

I'm a beginner when it comes to oscilloscope use. I have one, but am not sure the best placement. You are the first to comment with some indication of where to put the probes. Do you have any more information on how to set up the scope to measure this?

@@DavidPozEnergy Hi David. 2 questions: - Do you have the 500A / 50mV shunt? That will give you a voltage across the shunt of 20mV when 200A are going through the shunt. - Are you using the Hantek hand-held oscilloscope (2D42 or similar)? I bought one of those after I saw yours. I'll assume this, although if you have a different scope the settings should be the same. To set it up to see such low voltages, you may need to use 1x probe mode (10x and above are tricks to reduce noise at the expense of resolution). The Hantek scopes should come with some crocodile clip-style probes that are only 1x. Note that they will be very susceptible to noise at this level especially around the inverter with its switch mode power supply. To measure the current through the shunt with a scope, you will measure the voltage directly across the terminals. You don't need to power the smart shunt on unless you want to do a sanity check. --------------------------------------------- | + + | Battery Inverter | - - | -------------[Shunt]--------------------- | \ | Oscilloscope [+] (Centre pin of oscilloscope probe or red crocodile clip) Oscilloscope [-] (Black crocodile clip) To get my scope (after a factory default [Menu -> Page 4/5 -> Default]) I do this: - Press Channel, then press left until the yellow (CH1) goes to 10mV. - Change Coupling to DC (F3 button). This is very important You should now be able to get an idea of the current trend. Each of the horizontal dotted lines on the screen correspond to 10mV across the shunt (100A through the shunt). If you want to capture the waveform, you can set up triggering: - Press the Trig button and set Mode to Normal. This will only update the screen when the threshold is crossed. - Adjust the Trigger threshold (right side marker) upwards until the screen just stops changing using the up and down arrows. Any time there is now current going through the shunt, the voltage should increase enough to trigger it. Once you're set up, you can change the trigger mode to Single, meaning it will only trigger once. To reset the trigger, press the Play/Pause button on the bottom right. If you're struggling, comment again and I'll try to set up a shunt on my batteries and do a similar experiment.

Sure you can ask. Remember, I ran my pair of Growatts off grid. So, if your question is anything to do with grid connections, I won't be able to help.

HaHaHaHa 👍👍😁😎

I think the water was up around 140°F after my test. I've built a 250 gallon solar thermal tank in my crawlspace. It pre-heats my DHW year-round. I've also built a solar thermal system on my garage that heats my radiant floor which I installed. I have videos on all these projects if you are interested.

You could probably set something up to work. I have never worked with the Ecoflow Pro, so I don't know the input Voltage to the MPPT charger. If they are the same Voltage range, great. Also, keep in mind that you will have to manually move the wires from one mode to the next. Another thing, the MPPT charger input might not have a current limiting circuit. If it doesn't, you would have to manually pre-charge the capacitors using a resistor.

@@DavidPozEnergy thank you!

I also tried pulling 200A with one Schneider inverter and got the same result (the battery shut down at 170A)

woule like to share the BMS information.

If your water heater is pulling 150Amps at 220VAC, that's 33kW! That's huge. You would need several inverters in parallel to power that. If your goal is to heat water using solar energy while off grid, then I'd suggest using a heat-pump water heater (tank style).

Yes, I did on some of my testing. But, if you run more than 1 battery you will want to run all batteries to a central point called a busbar. Then, at the busbar, split to your inverters.