interesting. Can you explain basic controls. IE: to blowdown you shut outlet, open blowdown and empty it? Automated? Just curious how intricate you had to get.

Ya i've heard people using vinegar. Especially to remove hard water scale. I've also been using Oxcalic acid powder to remove the rust from the Culligan filter casings. It's been working ok, with a little scrubbing.

I treat my drains with hi acid vinegar monthly & use it to clean plumbing parts, Love that vinegar 😂 Use a home mix of Vinegar+ Dawn spray, then sprinkle Baking Soda so it soaks the spray & Watch Wait. No Toxicity!

Distilled vinegar isn't good for the body but it's good for the house.

Well yes and no. Yes i think it's a good filter and you can buy them in sizes 200, 100 and 50 micron. They are great because you never have to replace the filter itself, it's just a metal screen. BUT... you are saying that you already have 2 filters and it's not fixing the problem. The blue filter i think is the DuPont cartridge filter ((alt) DuPont WFPF13003B Filter .......... amzn.to/2HEm7KD) . That should be able to filter out the powder. So if that's not working i don't know if these will work either. I have 4 filters, 100, 50, 20, 5 micron. Not sure what the powder is, but i would think a 5 micron or 1 micron filter would be able to remove it. Maybe get the iSPring 50 micron ( iSpring WSP-50 - Water Filter .......... amzn.to/2HEiEfh) then the Culligan filter (CULLIGAN WH-HD200-C Filter .......... amzn.to/2utRPSo) and buy some 5 micron inserts.

A 5 micron filter should collect pretty much everything.

Can you give the name brand of one or a link? Thanks!

I don't see why not

100 microns is pretty big. Like almost a grain of sand big. I use it just to catch the big stuff before the 50, 20, 5 micron filters

1. No. Someone else mentioned using Oxalic acid, which i've used when cleaning them. Just make sure to wash off the CLR or any chemical after cleaning. 2. The connector pipe is the bypass. It is always closed, except when i'm changing filters, mostly the 2 bottom filters. When i change those i close off the top and bottom valves and open up the bypass. That way there is still water to the house, it just doesn't go through the filters while i'm working.

Maybe. It doesn't help. I think the first couple times i used a bucket, but it was messy. But when you open up the valve water does flow out of there pretty quickly, even with the tube.

I didn't consider that when buying the parts. But knowing my water, all the pipes are probably coated with rust and calcium build-up after 2 years.

The large canisters / filters i have are by Culligan. The blue ones are by DuPont i think. You can put any micron size filter inside, but they are 4.5" x 10". So you can get a 20, then 5, then 1 micron filter and put them in the 3 culligan filters.

I had that same question.

What size did it end up being?

@@blakeivy9143 I've used the filter for many years now. I left the 1/4" tubing on after dislodging the assembly (see above). It never did leak. I have had to spin the assembly off to replace the filter though. To do so, I never mess with taking the tubing off of the iSpring. I uncouple the tubing from the other end (for me, it's Tee'd into my water conditioning flush tubing). Don't want to mess with taking it off and dislodging the internal assembly again. If I had to do it over, I might try buying slightly larger tubing and using a radiator clamp or 2 instead.

Mine drains down to my sump pump, then it gets pumped out to the back yard. Ya waste drain is ok, goes out to the sewer.

No just open up the valve and water "should" flush out the sediment. It isn't perfect though, once per year you need to take apart and clean the screen mesh. (at least i need to)

I just bought one and they now have a bracket with them. Its just a Fork that holds it up.

Ya that would be fine. I just have the bypass in case something goes wrong, then we aren't without water while i fix it.

I've never turned the blue handle. I tried a couple times, it wouldn't budge, thought i was going to break something, so gave up.

@@DaveWirth Wow! That's discouraging. You really did a great job, and if even you couldn't take advantage of the Bypass/Off lever, then I'm rethinking this. Thanks.

We've lived in the house for 3 years now. We have a well, with lots of rust and hard water. When we moved in, the only thing they had was a water softener. From what i've read the water softener does remove some of the rust. Not 100% sure how it works, but every night it does a regeneration and flushes the salination tank out. However we noticed early on that our toilet and tub were getting rust stains in them. So that's why i installed the filter system and it's helped a lot with that. If i forget to change the filter then we start to notice the rust again. Also I installed 2 reverse osmosis filters for drinking water in the house. The filter system also helps with that, kind of filtering out the big stuff first, so that the RO filters don't get slammed and clog up too quickly. There are water softners you can buy on Amazon: amzn.to/3gwDZ9Y But if you don't want to do the plumbing yourself and add an electrical outlet (it needs power) then you will probably end up spending another $1,000?????

You use the round wrench, unscrew the clear housing then it all drops out. The mesh filter just sits in there in the middle. I thought i would never have to clean it, but after 6 months - 1 year it got super rusty, so i took it out and cleaned it with Oxalic acid and an old tooth brush.

@@DaveWirth directions say to replace it every 3 months?

Just make the connection before the sprinkler pipe bypass. I didn't want to filter the sprinkler water, so i diverted the water after that pipe. The iSpring filters are great because of minimal maintenance. Once a year (maybe) you can remove the case, and clean off the metal mesh screen.

I have some type of black plastic pipe from my well to my house. My house was built in the 90's so maybe it's some type of ABS?

I only saw the 50 and 100 micron inner screens, but they look to be about the same size. So i would think yes.

I don't know. Not really. Water is flowing through it, just the larger particles get caught by the screen. Also you can flush it out whenever you want with the little valve. It's not like stagnant water, there's constant water flowing through it. And the screen's pretty large for it to collect bacteria.

It keeps some out, but the 5 micron filter collects 80% of the iron in my water

I wondered the same thing!

they are addition filters he has other videos explaining

The smaller the number, the smaller the hole. 100 micron = O 50 micron = o 10 micron = .

Well i've had it in the house for 2 years now. Seems to be working fine. In those 2 years, i think i've removed the inner "screen" about 3 times to clean it with an old toothbrush and oxalic acid. Overall, seems to be the same as when it was first installed. Not much that can go wrong with it. It's like saying how is the screen on your window holding up over 2 years? No holes, then it's just fine.

@@DaveWirth I should have specified I meant laboratory testing of the well water before and after the filter. The build itself looks rock solid. :-)

@@mytapscoreplaceholder Not really, at least not isolating the ispring filter. I did review this Electronic Water Descaler and there's some info there comparing the water directly from the pump and through the filters kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z5agiNdkyLjUqmw.html

I forget. I think i measured it and responded to someone in the comments. It's like 1/2" or 5/8" ? I just happen to have some clear hose already that fit.

Yeah that’s true but also you can just grab a screwdriver and adjust the well pressure up a few psi to make up for it no problem.

Parts here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ZsV2ktuGsK7bcoU.html Update here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hbGqedWpsLKoqXU.html But i would suggest not doing the pressure gages. They aren't needed. I never use them.

I got the filter system installed and the sediment “spin down” filter is already clogged after 1 day. I am currently using a 50micron and 100micron. Should I go higher? Thinking about using the 200 in line with the 100micron

@@jeffreyanderson720 I thought i had pretty bad, rusty water. And i only have to take out my spin down filters and clean off the rust once per year. The 5 micron filters need changing every month. So if your 100 micron is clogged after 1 day, that seems like really bad water. Ya maybe a 200 micron would help "spread out" the filtration.

Do I have to purchase another filter? Or do you know if the inner cartridges are interchangeable? Could just buy a 200 micron cartridge and replace it with the 50

@@jeffreyanderson720 My 50 and 100 looked the same, just different mesh. So ya, i think you could just buy a new inner part

Well luckily i haven't had to use the bypass except for the 30 minutes it takes me to change the big filters. And having it on the downflow from the bypass let me take out the spindown filters and clean them once per year.

That would probably work too.

no, just when they are filling up

Ya no mounts are provided. The larger Culligan filters have a metal mount that screws to the wall, but the iSpring's don't have anything. But the iSpring isn't very heavy and just supported by the pex.

@@DaveWirthmy ispring did come with a mount. Before purchasing looked at what was included. Purchased from Amazon. Not sure why you didn't get one🤷🏾‍♂️. Meh. Thank you for responding. 👍🏾😊

I probably could have gotten away with just the 50 micron. But both the 100 and 50 do end up collecting particles/rust pretty evenly over a year. I wasn't sure how bad the water was coming from the well so i errored on the side of safety and put in 2.

I'm not sure, it's been a while. But i sort of remember that there were threads on the inside and outside of the pipe. So you could have a 1" female connector or 3/4" male connector, and both would fit. Not sure about US vs UK though. I think they were called like NIP or NFP or something.

Thank you. Did you buy the fittings in the uk or are you in the USA. Thank you

@@thirufrompe I bought everything on Amazon: List of all the materials & tools i bought: ($400 total) Water Filters: CULLIGAN WH-HD200-C Filter .......... amzn.to/2utRPSo (alt) DuPont WFPF13003B Filter .......... amzn.to/2HEm7KD Culligan RFC-BBSA Premium Filter .......... amzn.to/2urSzY7 iSpring WSP-50 - Water Filter .......... amzn.to/2HEiEfh iSpring WSP-100 - Water Filter .......... amzn.to/2JDEqS7 PEX Pipe Material & Tools: Crimping Wrench .......... amzn.to/2X7l4Xc 3/4" PEX Pipe .......... amzn.to/2Xa7NNL PEX Cinch Rings .......... amzn.to/2GdeLLb 90 deg Elbow .......... amzn.to/2UzkIM8 Butterfly Valve .......... amzn.to/2P42oF0 3/4" Tee .......... amzn.to/2UeRq0v PEX to Threaded .......... amzn.to/2VE7Bpy PEX to Threaded 2 .......... amzn.to/2P7eNYI PEX/PVC Pipe Cutter .......... amzn.to/2X0uLGW Pressure Gauge .......... amzn.to/2IspLH7 Depth Gauge .......... amzn.to/2GdfoV3 PTFE Tape .......... amzn.to/2IfBDgk 1/2"Male to 1/4" Female .......... amzn.to/2Igi0EX SharkBite 90 Elbow .......... amzn.to/2X40gQs 3/4" to 3/4" Male ..........amzn.to/2KzcajS

Thank you

The smaller the number, the smaller the holes. I have 100, 50, 5, 1 micron filters, each filtering out smaller and smaller particles Not sure about 1000 and 500 - those would be huge.

I have to replace the 4.5"x10" filter on the Culligan filter every month. Or else we start seeing rust on our shower and toilets

The iSpring filters just need to be blown off every month. Then i remove them and wash them in the sink every 6 months. The replaceable filters get changed every month. Just because we have a ton of rust/iron in our well water.

@@DaveWirth At my location it seems like the replaceable filters need changed every month when they are "suppose" to last 3/6 months. Always sediment that has filled it up. Looking for a way to extend their life to maybe a month or so each with the iSpring filter. Thank you for your video!

100 then 50 100 micron is larger holes than 50 so it goes 100 - 50 - 25 - 5 a 1 micron filter is the smallest you can get.

Because i change at least one of the 2 filters every month, i buy the cheapest ones i can find. So i buy them in bulk (around $7 per filter), they used to have a 6 pack of 20 micron filters, but now only have the 5 micron, so this is what i buy: amzn.to/35rIoGx I was worried that using a 5 micron and 1 micron would restrict flow too much. I originally had a 20 and a 5, but now i typically have two 5 microns installed. Then i will change the first 5 micron filter every month, and change the 2nd 5 micron filter every-other month, since it doesn't get as clogged with rust. Also i take out and scrub the spin down filter wire mesh with an old tooth brush like once per year. It gets clogged with rust particles, so i take it off, run it under water in the sink, scrub with a tooth brush, and clean it with some oxcalic acid.

I just had a clear plastic tube that fit the nozzle. Anything will work. You can flush it to your floor drain. Mine goes to the floor drain then into the sump pump.

@@DaveWirth thanks

@@DaveWirth dave whats the diameter of the tubing? thanks my system is similar to yours in the garage..

Not sure exactly. I just happen to have a bunch of tubing and one size fit. Maybe like 1/4" or 3/8" ???

@@DaveWirth thanks just got a bucket

No. They are just a metal screen that filters out sediment larger than the screen.

A well. With rust in the water

I think it's like an arrow < is kind of like

The first filter is 100 micron and the second is 50. If i only had the 50 micron it would get very clogged. With 2 it spreads out the rust into 2 different filters so 1 doesn't get completely clogged.

@@DaveWirth ok thanks

Yes, softner after the filters

No it can be copper. I think the phrase is Copper is King. Meaning it's still the preferred material. PEX is just super easy. When i did this i had zero leakage from the PEX connections. If i had done it in copper it would have been a disaster.

@@DaveWirth Thanks! I probably have to solder everything before screwing it into the filters and than solder to the main lines.

@@ELDecano1971 That's another great thing with PEX, you can bend the pipe and twist some of the fittings after it's all together. With copper it's fixed. So you might need to install a valve like this: amzn.to/3njqNcn A union, so it can be all soldered together yet still be able to screw onto the filter. This was my first time using PEX and i'm never going back. Super easy and worked great.

@@DaveWirth Thanks, I'll look into. I'm Colorado and my neighborhood was built in 1995 and we had very good clean water. The Cali invasion is happening and with it...tons of construction. Our water sometimes goes a little brown but than clears up. This is very helpful. Cheers!!

Who cares what it looks like? And why you specifically

Maybe he subscribes to the age old adage of if you’re going to do something, do it right. Take pride in your work. Old school perfectionist probably, definitely not a hack. Just likes to see good work weather it’s his or anyone’s.

Yes. A plumber.

Never mind, you did it right after I posted this.

Ya i realized that you should take them out and clean them every 6 months or so. They become clogged 3:20 is where i wash them

@@DaveWirth I had to change mine because I lost pressure. So, I ordered one and just left off the metal screen.

I will replace mine yearly, just the screen. It cost $18. From Lowe's.