Building Indoor Arrows for 18m/20yds | Barebow Indoor Tuning Mini-Series Episode 2
Рет қаралды 14,118
Күн бұрынContinuing this Barebow Build for Indoor Season Mini-Series, I build my arrows with maximum forgiveness in mind. I am working to create as much of a forgiving setup as possible and use all the tricks I have learned over the years when shooting recurve at a high level.
Video Links Below;
Indoor Tuning Mini-Series Ep-1: • Barebow Indoor Tuning ...
Glue in components like a pro: • Building Arrows How to...
Burning my own feathers: • Burning Custom Feather...
Fletching Selection: • Arrow Fletching Basics...
Indoor Arrow Selection: • Indoor Arrow Selection...
Links to Products in this video**:
Fletching Jig: amzn.to/3CQQwiX
Torch: amzn.to/3CVNOZs
Hotmelt: amzn.to/3TBon6i
Feathers: amzn.to/3VHr1tj
Glue: amzn.to/3SfO8YQ
Accelerator: amzn.to/3MY1PdV
Tuning for Performance: amzn.to/3N5EAyR
Chapters:
00:00-1:52 Intro
1:52-3:01 Why Easton SuperDrives?
3:01-4:10 Spine Discussion
4:10-6:31 Components Discussion
6:31-13:37 Gluing Components
13:37-14:28 Glue Removal
14:28-15:43 Why Pin Nocks
15:43-17:10 Fletching Arrows
17:10-21:00 Burning Feathers
21:00-24:39 Summary
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@gblan 3 ай бұрын
This barebow must be a demanding discipline. I would think that a silver medallist Olympian could easily transition to barebow and be dominating in virtually no time.
@rfdsrd 7 ай бұрын
I use fletch tape with great success for feather fletching on all manner of shafts wood, cabon, aluminum, fiberglass. Feather fore and aft get a small dot of Duco or CYA glue.
@msrvfx Жыл бұрын
Jake you may wish to investigate the use of “hot hide glue”. Oldest, strongest, and removable glue. It was aa standard for applying tips of and kind and nocks 50 years ago. It was available in stick form and one could use a candle or lighter to quickly activate the glue, and press the component on. Hot hide glue requires 135-145 degrees F to activate for gluing. You can create an inexpensive water double heater or use salon nail heater to heat the hide glue properly. To remove tips or nocks just heat the shaft/components to 160-230 degrees and it will come apart. Yes, you could put the shaft/component end into a pot or container with boiling water to reactivate the hot hide glue to remove.
@ceshelfer 7 ай бұрын
For barebow limb alignment without stabilizer, see U-Tube BAREBOW BUILD PART 1 LIMB SETUP. You'll be glad you did.
@weshedges5306 Жыл бұрын
New to Archery and been shooting bearbow for about two years now I just like the challenge. enjoy your videos especially all the information you share about bearbows. Thanks
@NPC-fl3gq Жыл бұрын
Omg, PERFECT TIMING!! I am literally in the process of building indoor arrows ATM (6gpi 500sp 23/64 shafts). I was planning on building them for my #50 bare-bow compound because I've never shot a 23/64 shaft with a recurve and wasn't 100% ready to make the switch, but now I'll watch this and reconsider.
@patrikbotlo Жыл бұрын
This is like a water pipe! 😀
@carlaroseli Жыл бұрын
Valeu!
@JakeKaminskiArchery Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the Super Thanks!
@lavsharma8327 Жыл бұрын
Love yo Jake 😘😘
@azzlaziz Жыл бұрын
Go for Lancaster!
@Garuda16 Жыл бұрын
Hey Jake, I use the same size propane bottle as you but found a 6" plastic base on Amazon to stick it in. Just a little safer for tip overs. Great video BTW. Thanks
@wazz566 Жыл бұрын
You can also use a Kitchen butane torch - small, stable, puts out plenty of heat and not so clumsy and tippy and easy to store in small spaces.
@archersa3793 Жыл бұрын
Hi Jake, it is an excellent video. Do you match the arrow spine with the draw weight and length or doesn't matter in indoor shooting? It will be nice if you could give more details on that. Thanks
@fxgemini1735 Жыл бұрын
Can you make a shootout video with the aluminum arrows, xceed-velos combo at 70m?! Mine was 541
@billj5645 Жыл бұрын
If lighter in the back makes them more forgiving, what happens if you use a heavier than normal point. That makes them relatively lighter in the back. (That affects the spine too.) For using hot melt glue on points, I've seen poor college kids use the kitchen stove, even an electric stove. Just hold the point in some pliers against the stove until it will melt the glue.
@b.anders1574 Жыл бұрын
Great! Keep'em coming. Now, that was standard procedure. Did you also verify spine, spline and straightens of the shafts or isn't that sooo important for indoor? And if the shafts would allow it, would you go with even lighter points, say 100 gn?
@JakeKaminskiArchery Жыл бұрын
If they had 100s I’d try them. As far as spine, spine alignment etc… if I was to shoot worlds or a major event with them I’d check that, or just bareshaft tune/select them
@TracyPicabia Жыл бұрын
I shoot right handed. Why LEFT wing with LEFT helical? Doesn't RIGHT wing spin the bottom fletch away from the rest straight out of the bow and reduce risk of contact with the rest?
@wazz566 Жыл бұрын
Do you believe in spine testing your arrows so as to orient all the weak or strong planes in the same direction so they fly more consistently off the bow?
@jonathanstyrlund5282 Жыл бұрын
Jake - thx for the great content. Curious. You generally seem to prefer the Last Chance jig, but when doing feathers, you have used the Bitz. Do you find the Bitz better for feathers for some reason?
@uppercanadairon1 7 ай бұрын
What weight on point for 23s
@sillybilly7467 Жыл бұрын
How many grains are the points ?
@RainbowArcher252 Жыл бұрын
When you are bareshaft tuning arrows that have huge helical feathers, do you leave the tune slightly nock point low? Therefore having the bareshafts slightly high? I'm currently tuning my indoor arrows (I'm having to pause until some heavier points arrive in the post) and I'm thinking of leaving the tune nock point low because the fletched arrows have such a huge amount of drag that they will go lower than the bareshafts. I'm thinking this would be more forgiving because if the bareshafts had the same amount of drag, they'd hopefully group together. What do you think? To take drag into consideration, should you group your bareshafts very slightly higher than the fletched?
@rijodel Жыл бұрын
Hi Jake! Using the arrow to its full length, may not under certain circumstances, bend the arrow so much at launch and damage it or even break it?
@blackriflex39 Жыл бұрын
when can we expect to see Kaminski feather fletching available on the website? hahaha just kidding , or am i? ;)
@blackriflex39 Жыл бұрын
is it possible to build a arrow that will be point on at 18m? that seems like a way more effective way to guarantee TENS
@jonpersson7059 Жыл бұрын
I think it's a matter of whether a setup suits a particular archers style. Some shoot well with heavy arrows/heavy points, close to point on. Others shoot better with thinner lighter arrows with a deep crawl. Some notable top shooters, like Demmer, Leo Pettersson, Ollie Hicks can lay down 550-560+ scores with thin, light arrows and a crawl.
@joeyjensen6782 Жыл бұрын
Hey Jake, First of all i want you to know that i really appreciate all the knowledge that you are sharing it has helped me out tremendously. I've been shooting compound with a release aid for over 25 years but my 12 year old daughter want to journey down the barebow side of archery ( she currently shoots in the NASP program) I recently purchased a Gilo gt 25'' riser. What limbs would you recommend for her, she will probably need 20lb limbs due to her size but any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
@jamesturner3709 Жыл бұрын
@@artemisprime1249 I just bought a set of SX100’s from Merlin. I’m in the US and with the exchange rate they were the same price as SX80’s here. Merlin is awesome.
@jamesturner3709 Жыл бұрын
@@artemisprime1249 I just ordered the limbs. I have high hopes. I bought a Mybo Wave XL from them a couple of months ago and I’m very impressed with it and the transaction. I did buy it for barebow and it only needs one 26oz Yost weight to balance perfectly. I used the other two holes for some Octane dampers I bought on eBay. I think it will be an awesome setup when I’m done.
@jamesturner3709 Жыл бұрын
I do try to use Lancaster when I can but they always seem to be out of everything.
@jamesturner3709 Жыл бұрын
@@artemisprime1249 My reason wouldn’t apply to his daughter. I am a 50 year old man so I know the draw weight I am comfortable with and the tune I am trying to achieve. His daughter is still growing . Her draw weight will change. I would probably go with something from WNS for her. From what I understand that’s W&W’s old tech but still good.
@jamesturner3709 Жыл бұрын
@@artemisprime1249 Eh I’m no expert. I watch a lot of Jake’s content and the Barebow group read forums. I knew I wanted a set of high end limbs but I didn’t want to pay $1000. I had my eyes on W&W, Hoyt or Uukha. I saw the Hoyt Velos go on sale and saw a set available in 44# which would give me 42# on a 29 inch riser so I ordered them $649. Someone else must have ordered at the same time though and I didn’t get them. So I started looking at limbs that price range. Uukha SX50’s only go to 40# so I dicided to skip those. The 80’s went to 42 so I thought that might be close enough if I crank them down but the weren’t in stock. So I looked at Merlin. Merlin carries the SX100’s which Lancaster doesn’t and they do come in 44#. So that’s what I decided on. Hopefully they live up to the hype.
@soapliquid1392 Жыл бұрын
Is there any difference between left and right helical for right handed archer?
@Redsnake7819 Жыл бұрын
I would go by natural arrow spin of bare shaft. You can do that shooting up close and see which way the arrow naturally spins without any fletch.
@carinalarsen76 Жыл бұрын
I'm trying to glue on the Vap Pro vanes to my new Victory VAP arrows. Problem: The vanes doesn't stick to the shaft. 1.Cleansed the shafts with isopropyl. 2. Add the vanes in the jig. 3. Apply ethyl 2-cyanacrylate glue. 4. Apply pressure. 5. Wait 30sec Tried both with activator spray and without. It just seams like the shafts are to slick, kinda Teflon slick. The same method worked well with some Avalon Tyro shafts and cheap vanes. Only difference is that the other vanes require cleansing before gluing, the Vap Pros have factory added activator. What am I doing wrong?
@JakeKaminskiArchery Жыл бұрын
I would avoid the isopropyl to start. Also I would leave the vanes on for longer, with more pressure 15 seconds is short even with activator spray. The WAV Pro vanes are the hardest vane to fletch and need near-full-cure time on the clamp with full contact to the shaft. Give that a go and see how that helps.
@carinalarsen76 Жыл бұрын
@@JakeKaminskiArchery thank you for the reply. I will try without the isopropyl. It might also be a problem that I have an Easton EZ fletch multikit that glues 3 arrows at the same time. It seems like the Wav Pro's are to thin at the base so it doesn't get enough pressure. I might need to try another fletching jig. Are the 20 vanes with hardened glue under possible to save?
@kevinbrown5321 Жыл бұрын
I've tried feathers with a zniper rest but find it wrecks the feathers very quickly despite the rest dropping as it should?
@-fazik-3713 Жыл бұрын
Does it drop in time (?) and/or the feathers might be touching something else.
@InFerrumVeritas Жыл бұрын
Shoot with the index up, like a drop away on a compound.
@russellscharman6746 Жыл бұрын
Noted using the Accelerator but not how to use it! How?
@johnfcockrell Жыл бұрын
I believe he has a video on that.
@carinalarsen76 Жыл бұрын
After several tries and 20 vanes with hardened glue on them (can maybe get the glue off somehow). I got 3 fletched arrows with some other cheap vanes. I've come to the conclusion that the Wap Pro vanes aren't compatible with my fletching jig (Easton EZ fletch multikit) due to the vanes being too thin - not enough pressure against the arrow.
@Garuda16 Жыл бұрын
Russel, I use the stuff all the time. Right before you're ready to put your feather on WITH the glue on it...put a light spray on the place where the feather is supposed to go. Then place your feather. I wait 20 seconds, which works fine, and then turn to the next feather and do the exact thing again with the accelerator the remaining feathers.
@garymickus6412 Жыл бұрын
Symmetrical vs Asymmetrical pin nocks (Beiter)?
@justinvzu01 Жыл бұрын
Asymmetrical is for recurve. Because you don't apply even force over and under the nock the string inside the nock is angled, the nocks are built to freely accommodate that angle. I'd never shoot anything else on recurve, they're amazing. Symmetrical, aka hunter, nocks are for compound. Because of the D Loop, the piece of the string that the nock engages with stays straight, so there's no need for an asymmetrical design. Here in Europe at least, everyone uses Beiter.
@garymickus6412 Жыл бұрын
@@justinvzu01 Thank you!
@Garuda16 Жыл бұрын
@@justinvzu01 Yeah, Asymmetrical"s rock. When I first used them I thought maybe they were jus t a gimmick, but wow... I could definitely tell a difference and now that's all I buy/use. Pricey though is the down side.
@justinvzu01 Жыл бұрын
Isn't the Meta DX illegal for barebow? I think the dampers weren't allowed. And why don't you cool off the glued points and pins in water directly after glueing? The carbon might burn, which is bad for it. Also, if you can pull a layer of carbon off the arrow, the arrow was garbage to start with.
@InFerrumVeritas Жыл бұрын
They changed the rules last year.
@JakeKaminskiArchery Жыл бұрын
I don’t heat the points up very hot at all no ruining the arrow. I’ve peeled a layer off a brand new X10 when I was learning the glue peeling… sure wasn’t junk to start with. Also WA ruled dampers in barebow are legal now.
@Redsnake7819 Жыл бұрын
What kind of pliers are those and where to find them?
@artemisprime1249 Жыл бұрын
I believe these ones, mate. Jake, feel free to correct me if I am wrong. Oh, and if you click on one of Jake's Amazon links above (edit: in the video description) before you buy 'em, I think he gets a cut, so .... do that! www.amazon.com/Easton-512982-Archery-Pliers/dp/B002QG208G/
@juancarlossegadecanosa67 Жыл бұрын
One thing I don't like of those feathers is that the front end of the quill is cut straight instead of at an angle, as you see in parabolic or shield feathers. I don't like that "step", I prefer a smooth transition from the shaft to the feather.
@JakeKaminskiArchery Жыл бұрын
Did you know that The steeper the leading edge the more lift on an airplane wing? In theory this should offer more “steering” to the feather. At least that’s my hope.
@juancarlossegadecanosa67 Жыл бұрын
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Are we talking about the same thing? I'm talking about the base of the feather, the white part you glue to the shaft. In this feathers, the front end came with a straight cut from the factory, instead of an angle cut as you see in most of the parabolic or shield feathers. I'm not talking about the step design you burned in the vane part of the barbs, that's perfectly fine.
@tonypace2009 Жыл бұрын
I could be wrong but I think the full length are just raw feathers before they shave the feral down and make shape cuts. so you can shave down the feral of the father to get a closer fitting to the shaft probably be able to make a shaving jig to make them uniform . in Arkansas we lived next to old man that made feathers some for archary and the lower grade feathers went for fishing tackle store. he paid $5 for Turkey wing feathers. I remember him splitting the ferals and shaving some of them down also first time I saw a feather burner in action.
@jonathanstyrlund5282 Жыл бұрын
Jake - thx for the great content. Curious. You generally seem to prefer the Last Chance jig, but when doing feathers, you have used the Bitz. Do you find the Bitz better for feathers for some reason?
@ryanbon Жыл бұрын
Hey Jonathan, not sure if this is helpful but I use the LCA rig and am unable to fletch feather arrows that are more than 4" in length, and that was massively pushing it... 3-1/2" is more realistic. And even with 3" feathers, getting particularly thick barbs into the clamp is sometimes an issue. So, you can definitely do it... but not for long uncut flu flu's like Jake likes to run for custom cutting.
@jonathanstyrlund5282 Жыл бұрын
@@ryanbon Thanks Ryan. That makes sense. Appreciate the response.
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