I just made my first high quality double deck telescoping box (third one) using your tutorial! I made some templates with Inkscape and imported the custom covers into my Cricut design software. My Cricut was able to cut the covers and the rectangles I made right in the software, so I didn't have to cut anything out. Worked perfectly and I'm THRILLED with the results. Thanks a billion for your amazing video!! ***NEW SUBSCRIBER***

How did your project turn out?

@@davidhouston2277 The personal reading flash cards turned out excellent thanks! The stock card I used for the box wasn't that great but it still did the trick. I had to watch a few times before attempting :) lol thanks for this timeless gift :)

Though it occurs to me that this advice was given working with single layers of stock (cardstock or chipboard). You're working with label paper laminated on cardstock, and the label likely has finer finish than the cardstock. The advice I was given might not apply.

EDIT.... I have taught myself to make these templates, it's quite fast and easy after a few goes. I slowed your video down to quarter speed to see what you were doing.

Machination is unfortunately presently only available as a WIP design thread here: boardgamegeek.com/thread/993949/wip-pnp-hidden-role-bluffing-card-game-design-cont My partner and I between us did the redesign a few years back for a Secret Santa gift, but the game has no BGG entry, and I can't just upload the files without the permission of the author.

It's a purchasable product - look for "scoring blade". It's intended for people who make their own greetings cards and things like that, I believe. (It doesn't really 'score' the paper as such, it just crushes/compresses the fibres a lot along the one narrow line so that the paper folds much more easily there.)

@@JakeStaines I wish I had read your comment before I spent an hour earlier today trying to purposely blunt the edge of a rotary blade....they don't get that dull very easily :)

If you save as a JPEG, then the image file has no size information - so it sounds like when you print, the computer doesn't know whether the image should fill the whole page, or be just a tiny part of it, or what. If your image happens to be exactly the right number of pixels to fill a page, then you'll be OK, but otherwise you're out of luck. If you're editing in Photoshop, can you not print directly from Photoshop? That can control much more how large the printed result should be. Alternatively, perhaps consider making sure that Photoshop has the correct real-world size for your image and then save it as a PDF instead - I think PS can do that? PDF files contain size information so they should print OK unless you explicitly override the print size.

that worked! thank you :)

I'm glad to hear you like the videos! The game with the parchment and handwriting on the front is "Machination" - unfortunately the design you see here is a redesign that's not presently publicly available. The original game can be found here: boardgamegeek.com/thread/993949/wip-pnp-hidden-role-bluffing-card-game-design-cont The redesign was done by me and my partner. The game never got a BGG entry, which is where I'd usually upload redesign work, and the designer released the rules under a license that means I'd need explicit permission to release the reformatted rulebook; I started talking to him around the time we originally did the redesign but it kind of petered out and I've never got around to going back to it. :/

If you're ever able to get around to getting permission to post your redesign, I'd love a copy! I've subscribed to the game's WIP thread to watch for any future updates. ;) Thx!

BROTHERS GRIMM you should be fine with any printer that can print on normal paper - just be sure to select label paper that works with your printer type. Nearly all labels work fine in any kind of printer - it's just normal paper with glue on the back! - but some labels only go in one kind.

The type of label paper can potentially affect the quality - but you'll find that a lot of printable labels are all pretty much the same. Unfortunately, the only thing for it is to try a brand and see if you like the result! As to printing - the one thing I'd say is that the darker your image, the wetter the paper will be if you use an inkjet printer. I'm a big fan of laser printers in general - they're more expensive as an up-front cost but cheaper on a per-page basis unless you're willing to mess around with CIS tanks on your inkjet, and laser printers are generally less messy... but one of the biggest advantages is that the toner transfer process is completely dry, while an inkjet printer can sometimes cause thinner paper to warp if you print particularly large, heavy-ink areas.

@@DiningTablePrintPlay where is the best place to find label paper online?

It's not a problem I've had with my current printer, but I used to get that years ago with a previous printer sometimes. I got the impression it ran out of print buffer memory partway through the job and thought to itself "sod it, wasting a page and a load of ink is definitely better than giving an error message". That said, it could perhaps be an Inkscape problem if you're printing directly from within Inkscape - it might be worth printing to a PDF (I know at least recent versions of Windows and MacOS do this pretty easily) and then opening the PDF to print to the printer from the PDF viewer? I definitely plan to do more videos, I have a list of topics ready to go and some footage shot - but with a small child now I don't have anything like the free time I used to, so I'm afraid I can't say when!

@@DiningTablePrintPlay Thanks Jake. Yeah the save to pdf and then print worked a treat 👍 No worries about the vids time really does fly by with kids. Glad to hear you got something lined up though. All the best and will keep an eye out 🙂

It's an Olfa "Art Knife" - I prefer the less-pointy end to normal scalpels and X-Acto-style knives, but it's really a matter of personal preference.

It's sold separately by Olfa as a "scoring wheel". I don't think I'd recommend blunting a cutting wheel deliberately - unless you have a lathe to do it properly you could easily end up with a wheel that's off-centre or non-circular and hard to use, and if you did have a lathe you could more-efficiently just take a bit of sheet metal and make one from scratch, since the metal used for the blades will be hardened, which will make it more brittle and more likely to chip as you work it. I imagine it would be pretty easy to cut yourself quite badly trying to do the blunting, for that matter! The scoring wheels aren't that expensive and obviously never wear out. If I *did* have to try myself, I'd probably try and find a carriage bolt that fit the centre hole in the cutting wheel perfectly, then drill a hole for the bolt through a block of wood, and fit several stacked washers to the carriage bolt, then the wheel, then the block of wood and then a nut fastening everything together. Like that I could use the bolt head and washers on one side of the wheel and the block of wood on the other as handles to be able to move the cutting wheel into a running grinder - the grinder would both eat away the edge and rotate the wheel on the bolt so it should hopefully remove the edge uniformly and cocentrically, and with relatively-safe handholds on both sides I'd hopefully be able to resist the grinding wheel grabbing the cutter and yanking it out of my hand and potentially into position to cut me, which is probably the biggest risk. Eye protection would be a 100% must and I'd prefer to do something like this with a full face shield if I had to. But I still don't think it's a good idea!

@@DiningTablePrintPlay I see. I found and ordered the exact model of rotary cutter you use in this video, but when it comes to blades, there are only ones for cutting over here in Bulgaria. You know the ones, the wavy and dashed line type. Couldn't find a scoring one. Will keep looking. By the way, up until now I've been using a letter opener for my scoring, it does a really wonderful job (depending on the blade of course, there are some that are WAY too blunt to be precise). I didn't expect such a quick answer. Thank you and thanks for the awesome videos!

@@bloodraven2537 Well, you asked on my lunch break. And you're welcome! Yeah, there's a load of options for scoring tools, and it's as much a case of what you're comfortable with and what you can find as anything. I have a small 15cm steel ruler that I sometimes use in a pinch because it has a rounded end that I can run down another ruler like a particularly flat pencil! There's a chap at the art supply shop in town who makes his own out of slices of maple or similar closed-grained hardwoods. The only thing I'd suggest most of the time is to prefer the kind that squashes down the paper (like the wheel, or a letter opener) over the options that scrape away at the paper and damage the surface (like the back side of a knife, or the blade of a pair of scissors) as it's too easy to go all the way through if you're not careful! As it goes, looking closer at mine it seems I misremembered - it's Fiskars, not Olfa; it's intended for a rail cutter but it fits the hand-held rotary cutter just fine. The product code appears to be 93558097J for the scoring wheel; somewhat annoyingly the package says "trimmer blade" on the side and then "Scoring / Striage" underneath! Here's one place that sells it - I appreciate they may not ship to Bulgaria in particular but maybe it'll help you locate a similar product elsewhere: widgetsupply.com/products/fiskars-93558097j

The tuck box is made from 210gsm cardstock - apparently that's more or less equivalent to "80lb cover stock" in the US system. Weight is a little misleading for cardstock, because it doesn't _always_ relate directly to stiffness - mostly it's a good guide, but sometimes you find some heavier card that manages to be as floppy as copier paper, and sometimes you find lighter stuff that's still quite stiff. Really, if you find a stiff card that isn't too thick to crease neatly, then it's almost certainly good. If you can hold the bottom corner of a sheet and the whole sheet stands up in the air without you having to curve it to keep it from flopping over, then it's probably stiff enough for tuck boxes. ;-)

Thanks :)

Software per tuck box

@@DiningTablePrintPlay what type of paper should be used for the telescoping box?

I use full-sheet printable label paper from my local stationers - Ryman's, a UK-wide chain. I know Staples does an equivalent product, although I find they're not quite as good quality as the Ryman's ones - at least not here in the UK. Both products are suitable for both inkjet and laser printers, if I recall correctly. I know a lot of people in the PnP community swear by OnlineLabels.com, but I've never had occasion to try them!