I appreciate the feedback! Smart of you to watch before attempting it. Sometimes it's just better off paying someone to do it if you aren't comfortable or lack the tools, no shame in that!

Good luck!

Yeah them lower strut bolts were no joke! Thank you for the feedback!

@@TonyTheTruckGuyhow do you remove the front bumpstops

@@IndyHepburn The bump stop rides in the piston of the strut itself. We replaced the whole strut in this video, so it automatically got a new bump stop. You’d have to remove your strut and disassemble it with a spring compressor to correctly replace the bump stops only, but at that point, I’d be doing new struts. You could also attempt to slice down the side of the new bump stops and slip them over the strut rod with the front end in the air and suspension hanging, but I’m not sure how well that would hold up after slicing it, and you’d still have to cut the old ones off first.

Awesome man glad you were able to get it knocked out! Thanks for watching!

Yeah that would probably work we just didn’t have a spring compressor handy

Good luck! Honestly the hardest part was getting that lower strut bolt off and getting the old strut separated from the lower base. Take your time, use a bunch of wd40 and get some help if needed and you should be fine so long as you have access to the correct tools.

What Brand shock do you recommend from autozone? I wanted to get something better than what came with my 2008 jeep grand Cherokee.

@@nexussix7933 I guess I’m not familiar with auto zone’s product line since I don’t normally go there. If you want anything close to factory quality, you’d likely have to go with the top tier strut that auto zone offers, or go OEM again, or Bilstein. There’s other options but that’s just a few.

I live in apartments so i've basically got a bag of tools but no torch or to heat that clevis bolt or even pry bars.. =/ Looks like we may have to wait to fix this.

Yeah you gotta love the MN road salt life. Pry bars are a necessity especially if not fully removing the upper a-arm.

@@TonyTheTruckGuy I watched your vid a 2nd time. I think i'm just going to remove the upper control arm as it seems to be the easiest way. Are the upper control arms fixed or are the bolts cambered for adjustments? It seems like a decently easy job besides maybe pulling the strut off that clevis.

Nothing special about the bolts or mounting holes, just remove both bolts and pull them out. Hardest part is locating and getting a wrench on the 18mm nuts that hold the 15mm bolts in.

Same here from MN bout to change out my gf newish to her jeep but with the 3.7 v6 so hope its the same under the hood!I bought the complete set off ebay with springs so i can just quickly change them out....rear shocks are after!!anything they miss you recommend?

Thank you!

Appreciate the support! Have a good day!

Haha, hell yeah!

@Frank Stein pretty much any repair shop 1000 roughly for the job mostly labor, parts are only about 300.00

Thanks! You could definitely give that a try - we didn't have one handy though.

Stink in’ rust haha

Them things are sure tough! Glad you got it!

Lmao! Yeah I just installed what was supplied. I’d probably my have gone with Bilstein or something.

Yeah you would need to buy or rent a spring compressor to assemble the new parts and you typically have to remove and reuse the top spring hat so I normally opt for quick struts. I just recommend you get a reputable brand and not the cheapest you can find.

@@TonyTheTruckGuy I do have plenty of mechanic experience I can do this job and have the tools but I have never in my life messed with struts.

Yeah I was kind of surprised that Bilstein didn’t have any with springs on then.

@@TonyTheTruckGuy I'm thinking of getting some bilsteins... Do you have to replace the springs as well? Also, is alignment needed?

I believe you have to swap stock coils over to the Bilsteins struts, as the Bilsteins do not come with springs which is dumb. Alignment is recommended any time you do something with the front end. We didn’t do one here, but the owner is getting an alignment before new tires this fall.

The pinch bolt itself came out fairly easy, just had issues separating the strut tube from the pinch bolt housing. Ended up having to remove the upper control arm as shown in the video so the top of the strut could be pulled out of the wheel well for a better working angle. Ended up soaking the tube with wd-40 or any sort of penetrating oil, then had my buddy pulling up on the strut while I was switching between prying up on the bottom of the tube and hitting downward on the lower strut mount with a hammer. Just took a lot of beating and swearing and lube lol. It might also help if you can hammer a chisel into the slot where the pinch bolt comes out. That would open up the lower mount a bit and make it not as tight.

This wasn’t my vehicle and I actually haven’t driven it since installing these but the owner hasn’t had any complaints

Yeah I probably it could have put the upper strut nuts back on but I didn’t think it was going to be such a fight lol

You're welcome! Thanks for the feedback!

You could jack up the Jeep under the lower A-arm and grab the top and bottom of your tire and try to wiggle it up and down. This will allow you to see if the upper ball joint is worn. Other than that, the only thing that can really fail on them is the bushings where they bolt to the frame, which you should be able to visually see but may need to remove the tire for a better look.

Tony The Truck Guy ty!!!!!

You'd have to either torch or grind the head of the bolt and the nut flush with the mount so you can pry the strut out and then try taking the strut to a bench and air hammer the remaining bolt piece out that is still stuck in there if you aren't using new struts. You will also need a new bolt obviously.

I know it's a Liberty, but same issue and same engine, so check this video out. I'm not sure what elevation you're at, or how hot it gets there' or why it would have magically started after doing the fuel pump, though.

We just got these ones from the local O’Reilly Auto. I would select a higher quality if you’re going to be doing complete struts like this and keeping the vehicle for a while. The cheaper ones can be pretty junk a lot of times.

11:45-15:00. Wasn’t able to get the bolt out cause we didn’t have an air hammer. Had to separate the strut tower from the lower mount using spray lube, then spread the lower bracket open with a chisel and hammer. Then wiggled and pried on the strut tower to get it up.

You CAN do 1, but I highly recommend both. You handling and ride quality will suffer with just 1, as the new one will likely not sit the same height, or have the same specs as the old one.

Haha, oh trust me, I have plenty of choice words while working on stuff. Which part are you having trouble with?

@@TonyTheTruckGuy Not a problem "yet" 😂..I was just changing the brakes on my 09 Cherokee yesterday (which wasn't bad at all) but while there ,looked up at the strut and thought " your next"...Then watched your awesome video about how to do it...and I was cussing at your vehicle while you were doing it🤣🤣🤣😳😳😳My neighbors love me when I am working on the Cherokee!!! 🤣

@@justScrollin0627 😂😂

Glad I could help and you got it done! Thanks for watching!

4x4. At 12:28, you can see the front CV axle shaft which passes through the strut assembly. 2wd won’t have this.

I’m not sure how much a shop would charge since I don’t work for a light duty shop and labor rates can vary so much. Not sure how many hours book time is to replace them either, but assuming it paid 2 hours per side at $100/hr labor, you’re talking $400 in labor plus parts which is at least $300. Then tax on top of that so I’d guess over a grand.

I have estimates on my around 800 to 1000, mostly labor.

Agreed

WHY ARE YOU YELLING!? I DON'T CARE WHAT THEY CALL THEM. THEY ARE STRUTS. GOOGLE JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE STRUT AND I PROMISE THEY WILL COME UP. A SHOCK DOES NOT HAVE A SPRING ATTACHED TO IT. GET IT RIGHT!

ALSO, IT'S "THEY", NOT "THAY"! GET IT RIGHT!

@@TonyTheTruckGuyLOL!