Glad to hear it, thank you

always fired me up when anyone wave this "Can't or Don't?" red flag in my face.

Glad to hear it

Thank you

Thanks, Snapper

Thank you

Thank you

Thank

Thank you!

Glad to hear it. Thank you

You bet

Thank you

Thank you

Excellent

your nick sounds reaally polish, czy mam rację? :D

Thank you

Thank you

Thank you

Thank you

Thank you

Thank you

Thank you

Thank you! I knew you would appreciate it.

That’s how it ended up

Magazine tube detonations could happen, but it's not as trivial and easy as it seems. I forgot which one, but there was a gun rag which did a test many years ago where they loaded up some .30-30s with pointy bullets and filled a Winchester 94 with them, then knocked the thing around a whole bunch. They did eventually get detonation, but it took a whole damn lot to make it actually happen, they had to climb a tree and throw the rifle on the ground several times to make some primers finally pop, and they only managed to get two of them to fire, they didn't all go off in one row. The magazine also doesn't support the cartridges like the chamber does, so the popping isn't quite so dramatic as some people envision.

That would be a pretty big "could". I doubt the bare lead bullet nose would do that.

@@kneyork9930 It's unlikely, but it might. I think the most likely gun to experience this is centerfire reproductions of the old 1860 Henry, with its weird follower setup and the open slot in the bare magazine tube. Don't need pointed bullets there, flatnosed ones will do it, if you drop the cartridges down into there in a way which lets them fall a good distance, or if you let the follower go after partially loading so it gets to smack them real good (both which the manual tells you to NOT do), then inertia can make primers go off, and with the uncovered magazine and its open slot, that can cause injury. This happened to Ian McCollum, fortunately he wore shooting glasses and only got a minor wound, with a sliver of .45 Colt brass left in his chest.

@@0neDoomedSpaceMarine Ouch! I've also seen tests, and although it's not "pleasant", it does not kill the shooter, or blow one's hands off, set off all the cartridges, etc. I think another factor in this case is that the load was very mild, I think there was very little recoil with that bullet and only 30 grains of pixie dust.

I use Lee liquid alox for 50-70 and 577 snider smokeless loads and it works just fine. own an automotive repair shop so I have an abundance of used wheel weights so it’s simply a matter of convenience..

They are just a little shorter and might run in your lever guns. I can send you a batch for Science .

@@markveenstra9378 is it the Kerr bullet?

Thank you!

Only one way to find out

Thanks

Interesting

@@Everythingblackpowder I'm using a very mild load of 12.5 grains unique but I disavow any responsibility for unpublished loads.

I don’t see why not

Good idea

We’re looking into that

It worked

Yes they work well.

That’s typical

Shotgun loaders are the worst about this. I can’t count how many times I hear even rather mundane off-book tricks called “impossible” or “unsafe.” Even things like replacing 1 1/8 oz of birdshot with 1 oz of buckshot

​@@jacobackley502 With shotgun it's kind-of-sort-of understandable. SAAMI max for shotgun shells is usually around 11,000 psi compared to the 30,000 and up for metallic cartridges, so there's less margin for error. However, you're right that they may be a bit too finicky about things. Substituting primers, for example, or mixing brands of hull as long as they're the same category (tapered vs. straight). otoh I'm mainly a metallic reloader and I'm not averse to experimenting. For example, I couldn't find data for a 168 grain bullet in .300 Blackout using Accurate No. 11FS, so I went to the burn rate charts and found that it was around the same speed as H110 or Win 296. So I started at the minimum charge for those and now have a decent load worked up. Of course, learning to reload from Johnny's Reloading Bench may have influenced my willingness to experiment. XD

@@vicroc4 I’d say there’s actually quite a bit more margin of error for shotguns. Many are proofed above 20kpsi. Some are good up until the 30s. If you have a known good shotgun like an 870, the idea that you’ll blow it up with minor experiments is pretty silly. It’s a lot like a 45 colt Ruger Blackhawk. If you’re around 45 colt load data, you’re miles away from damaging it.

@@jacobackley502 I mean, you're not wrong. I'm just saying that the difference in pressures might be why more reloaders are willing to experiment in metallic cartridges than in shotguns.

Yeah which is rather made by Goex or schuetzen

Rice, huh?

Thank you

Interesting

I’ve often had the greased felt large stick to the back of the bullet and give even worse accuracy than it already gets

Well if it is absorbed by the powder it doesn’t affect it much. The reason why I assemble them this way is because I’ve had the felt wad stick to the base of the bullet and cause flyers. If you like, you could always use a card wad on either side of the greased felt wad just to be safe. That’s how Murphys Muskets does all of his BP cartridges.

@@Everythingblackpowder The flyer is a good point as I see a lot of BP wads smoldering after the shot potentially starting fires. I suspect a lot of fires were started during wars and otherwise. I have to chase down the wad and make sure its out.

I don’t think so

Seems to average out

@@daltond.2492 yes 1892 and 1894 Winchester will work and I hear that the new Henry rifles will hold up.

Beats me

I’ve tried it both way and the only difference was that the wad can sometimes stick to the back of the bullet and cause some flyers

Ive tried it both ways and the only difference I’ve noticed is that sometimes the felt was gets stuck to the back of the bullet and causes flyers

Glad to hear it

I found that sometimes the lube felt wide, can get stuck to the back of the bullet and make the accuracy worse than it already is

@@Everythingblackpowder Two card wads, one on both sides of the lubed wad? Kind of like a sammich.

I’ve found that the lubed wad can stick to the base of the bullet and give even worse accuracy than it already gets

@@Everythingblackpowder I haven't had them stick on me, yet, and I got to thinking about it and I put a wad on each side of a grease cookie. Have you tried paper patched bullets yet? When they work they are great, but a bad day with them you will wish you stayed in bed.

@IWatchedWhat I’ve never tried paper patched bullets

@@Everythingblackpowder Get ready to tear your hair out until you find what works, the loads that work in my rolling block don't work in my trapdoor and vice versa.

I have not

@@Everythingblackpowder that would be interesting cool vids keep em up

Never mind I just saw your old video

Not oily enough to bother the powder

Thanks, Hugh. What weight bullet does that mold drop?

@@Everythingblackpowder 255 grains with 20:1 lead:tin. It should have a slightly hollow base, and it should be .452 instead of .454, but Accurate can't make hollow-base bullet molds, and they only made the originals .452 to deal with a problem with the loading mechanisms they used, so it's otherwise quite close. I wish I could post a link here, I wrote up a couple of articles on my blog about it and the Frankford Arsenal reproduction packaging I made for them.

Yep

Thank you

Howdy

Gated Kirst conversion

😂

Good idea!

They are lead, even hard lead is soft. Very unlikely to set off a primer. It's FMJ that one has to be careful with.

I don’t see why not