Thanks! I wasn't sure exactly when they came out, and when they switched to solid state, very much appreciate you sharing that knowledge, thanks!

Thanks! I have a small pair of Irwins that I despise, and the craftsman are pretty much junk too, still looking for the classics! :)

Vintage Mixers and More definitely classics! I agree!

They are well built machines, the only reason I don't use one is because I got so used to the sunbeam, the KA's feel extremely awkward to me when trying to use.

Vintage Mixers and More We all have our preferences. That's ok. Very understandable. 😊

Hi Daniel, that's great! If you are getting rough running on stir and can see arcing, it is most likely the speed control plate is not sitting square to the body, or one of the tabs is bent. try to turn one screw or the other and see if it makes a difference. If not, then you may need a new speed control plate. You can find them here www.partselect.com/PS11748567-Whirlpool-WPW10119326-Speed-Control-Plate.htm?SourceCode=1&SearchTerm=K5SS&ModelNum=K5SS&ModelID=811421 Hope that helps!

Hey Dave, thats awesome! I think at some point they stopped adding the weight to the planetary, not sure if they deemed it unnecessary or balanced it some other way.. probably unnecessary since they will still get a unattached worktop swaying lol.

​@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Drat. Got everything painted, greased and reassembled to find that there's no response when I operate the speed control lever. It did function before I took it apart. I took the back end off hoping to find something obvious, but wire nuts and connections are tight. I never took the motor or even the speed control mechanism out of the top section, but I did lift the entire top section again; still don't see anything obvious. I have a multi-meter, but I'm not good with it. Not sure how to move forward at this point. Does this sound familiar enough that you could make a suggestion about what to check next? ETA: I watched your purple lollipop restoration, and while you were working on removing the back end parts, you mentioned the brushes leads. I sat there wondering if those were the sort of brushes that only fit in one way or if I could have them installed incorrectly. The first one I looked at was, and when I corrected that, she worked. I'm very pleased. Thank you again so much for these great videos.

@@daveburrows9876 Hey Dave, Im glad you figured it out! I was going to suggest looking at the brushes, that is what usually gets someone on reassembly. I almost wish I had mentioned it more often in the videos. Nice job!!

@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Were you able to find a replacement capacitor?

@@daveburrows9876 I think Dave at davesrepair.com still has some, I would definitely check with him!

Hey Robert! Sounds like it might be the rear bushing needs lubricated? Not positive without seeing it of course, but there is a bushing in the rear plate under the speed control assembly that was permanently lubricated, but permanent never meant this long lol.

Replace the capacitor

If the finish is being removed, I will use hot water and TSP to degrease, but if I am preserving the finish, I will use dish soap and hot water, which takes a lot of work on this grease. The bowl plate is held on with the 3 screws, but usually is stuck on with old grunge and crud, you can heat it up a bit with a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the crud and remove it.

@@vintagemixersandmore1666 ok thanks for the reply. I also bought a new power cord with a ground. Where would you mount the ground wire to?

@@sanderman7243 I attach it to the stud that holds the coil in place, and hold it in place with the nut that goes against the coil. That way it is easy to tuck it safely away from the fan and other moving parts.

Something may not be making a good connection, here is a service manual link, the wiring diagram is on page 12 (fig. 3) . Hope this helps! www.scribd.com/document/176382158/Kitchen-Aid-K45-Service-Manual-For-Hobart-Made-Vintage-Mixers

You sir, are a Godsend. I at least got it running, but it runs the same speed (about 90 rpms, instead of the recommended 60 rpms at "1") on 1 through 4 setting and has three increases at 6 (running about the recommended 180 rpms), 8, and 10. The top screws are adjusted all the way in and I can't move them in any more to get the lower recommended speed. The contacts also have some minor arcing at the 1 through 6 setting. I tested the capacitor and found nothing wrong with it. I notice an old "electric" smell while it's running, but I'm not sure if that's just from it being old. Does this sound like it could be a problem?

If you have turned the screws all the way in and it is still running too fast, something is definitely not right. Is the tab on the end of the lever that contacts the speed plate (moves when you move the speed selector) in the right position? It sounds like it might not be contacting it in the right place, or something isn't in the right spot somewhere in the back.

Hi Tom! Sounds like it is going to be gorgeous! The switch should just start to touch the speed control plate when you set it to speed 1 (stir), then as you increase speed it should move it out more each setting. The 2 screws on the top of the speed control plate are the adjustment screws, you should set them so the planetary rotates 1 revolution per second at stir. If it isn't contacting the switch lever, check to make sure the spring is hooked up. I usually ground them to the threaded rod that holds the field coil in place, between the field coil and the nut that goes on. You just have to be very careful of wire placement so the fan doesn't hit it when it spins. Hope this is the info you were looking for, if not we will try again! Good luck with your project! :)

Hi Jane, thanks! A burning plastic smell is something I have never came across in the SS models. I can only assume something is getting too hot, which could be either the grease has hardened causing drag on the motor, or possibly the phase control board might be going. The only electrical part that gets quite hot on the SS models is the transistor on the phase control board, but they are heat sinked and also use the rear bearing plate as a heatsink, so I guess it is possible the phase control board may have an accumulation of flour and that is making an odor? There are other parts in the motor that could be shorted or failed that will also make it hot (coil, armature windings) but that would be very rare and would most likely show other symptoms like running rough. Hope this helps!

@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Yes, thank you. I will start by replacing the grease. Is there a specific one to buy?

@@janemckenzie2577 Some prefer the food safe grease sold for kitchenaids, or you can use a high quality lithium based grease (automotive). Some do have issue with using that, which I can understand the thinking, if it leaks it can get into the food, but it stays thick, doesnt seperate, and wont leak through the gasket the way the kitchenaid grease does, so you would have to use your own judgement there.

I use partselect.com for some parts, such as the gasket or gear. If it is a non solid state model then other parts will have to be sourced from a donor machine. For the cord you can use a 3 prong cord for a monitor or computer and ground the machine. Hope this helps!!

Im not sure if this mixer made the noises beforehand (wife uses it)

update, motor mount screws were loose...helped the noise...but i fear that perhaps at this point it was loose for too long that it is still noisy - nowhere near as loud though.

@@lucas01230 Hi, sorry I didnt get back to you sooner, I have been down with the flu. That would have been my suggestion, to check the rear bearing plate and tighten if needed. The noise changing when tilted at different angles pretty much confirms that. The nuts tend to loosen up. I dont know if it would cause a lot of damage to run it loose, just a lot of noise and some rough running. Making sure it is seated fully and tightened should fix it. The nuts always seem to be finger tightened, I just snug them up, overtightening can warp the bearing plate. Hope this helps!

Hi Mark, thanks! That part you asked about is the resistor for the speed control. The part is no longer made, but you may be able to find one for sale used on ebay, if not then it will have to come from a parts machine. The part by itself is not easy to find, but cheap whole machines are much easier. Good luck!

Hi Jason, thanks!! If it is a Kitchenaid from around 1978 or newer you will spend forever sandblasting the finish off, they factory powder coated the bodies from around that time. I use a stripper made for removing powder coat, but you can also use the Klean Strip Premium stripper in a spray can that is found at home depot, hardware stores, and probably even Walmart. It takes a little bit, but goes faster if you spray the parts and wrap in foil and let sit for about an hour, but may require a couple coats but way faster than trying to sandblast the finish. Once you get the powder coat off with the stripper, then you can sandblast the parts. If you are powder coating them, you will also need to outgas the parts before coating. Hope this helps!

Thanks for the response! I like the idea of being a harder tougher finish but I think I may go with automotive prime paint and clear. I mainly want to go with a color I can't buy in the store. I am just a little unsure about the durability.

I think it would be pretty durable for the most part, not as tough as powder, but tough enough to last in a kitchen!

Sounds like a plan! Thanks again for the help hopefully I can get this back together and turn out half as well as yours do lol

I have faith in you, it will be perfect!

I keep everything in bins, and if I work on something unfamiliar, I have video I can refer back to :)

Hi, you can use an 18 gauge power cord, and I always grounded them inside to the stud that goes through the motor coil, and held it in place with the nut that goes against the coil. Replacing the power cords on these does require a bit of disassembly. The connections are tucked alongside the coil, so everything has to be removed from the rear of the machine.

@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Awesome thanks! Do you recall if you've done it in one of your videos that I could watch and pretty much follow along?

@@calebfrankenberger7383 I may have, but I have a memory like a steel sieve lol. Im pretty sure that you will find disassembly showing the cord connection in the videos, just search my channel for kitchenaid, I think there are a few videos posted for them. I skipped reassembly a lot of times simply to reduce the length of the video, and shooting video really slows the process down, so there may not be much on reassembly.

@@vintagemixersandmore1666 does it matter which wires you connect to Live and Neutral when replacing the power cord? I am replacing the power cord in the mixer my gf just got.

Im sorry, I posted links in your other comment to some videos showing some reassembly. I honestly tried to do the best I could, without a several hour long video to edit and upload, while covering as much as I could. For parts check partselect.com , as some newer parts such as brushes will work in the non SS models. For other parts specific to non SS machines, it gets a little tougher as most of them are no longer made, and many times have to be sourced from a donor machine.

Im sorry, I am no longer doing restorations. I do have a list of other restorers that may be able to help you out though, their info is here facebook.com/notes/vintage-mixers-and-more/other-vintage-appliance-restorers/2447370998621870/

Vintage Mixers and More Darn! But thank you for the referrals!

You will have to either salvage it from another pre ss machine, or find one on ebay someone else has already salvaged unfortunately

Hi Daniel! I think it is because the grease breaks down and the oil seperates either over time or when warm. Many of them seem to have that issue though.

Thank you so much ... I have a Ultra Power model since almost 20 years I think ... Sometimes there is a drop or so of oil that is on the shaft, not all the time, where we put the paddle.... I hope the machine will last quite a few years more :-)

I'm sure it will, and if something wears out, most replacement parts are available!