Thank you!

The only small issue I ran into 'no fault of your own but probably should be looked into' , the 4 stroke engine I know it comes from china, but the threading standard has changed. The mounting of the Exhaust system has long studs on it and the threads only exist at the last inch at the ends of those two studs. The included Muffler without modification cannot mount as there is like 2 and a half inches of non threaded stud to contend with But that isn't a major issue because the engine comes with it's own exhaust system that works. The other issue well I feel that I may have done, but I cannot be certain. I threaded the new cups for a crank on the right side of my bike to get the wide crank set on there, and well... it just didn't' feel right, I checked both cups but the ones that came with the wide crank set didn't fit and messed up the threads on one part of the bike. I did this hand tight initially and when I went to put on the original cups it just, didn't fit anymore and wanted to cross thread. I thought I got it right, but I guess I should have stuck with the original cups which still at the time worked on both sides but now only work on the left side... The engine mounts quick and easy. Yet I have had this kit for now a about 3 weeks and I have yet to ride it, because of various small issues. I fear that I will not have use of this bike which I got to help me save money... I'm kinda in a rough patch in my life. I suppose I should have chosen another product like one of your already working electric models, I feel like a damned fool. No fault of your own really though, as I said the videos are decently comprehensive though the one for mounting the 49cc motor should include instructions or a new method of mounting the included muffler if that is intended to be used. I have mounted the engine now three times only to take it off for various reasons, this last one being a muffler I should have chose to instead use what was already on the engine... I'm stuck in my state basically paying 100 bucks in gas every 1.5 weeks. Your customer service has been gracious and kind, heck I was missing only like 3 bolts and a few nuts and I was sent an entire rag kit to make up the difference of what was missing 'which was the bolts from said kit' . Yet in my recent problem Idk what I should honestly do since the coaster brake is just that, a brake, and brakes are very important and are directly related to the pedals which are now unreliable. --- Thanks for reading this, @@tonytaylor5087

Happy New Year!

Dont wait just ride now. I love the cold your motor will run strong in the cold because these engines love the cold air.

Happy New Year!

Thank you Bry! Same to you and your family. Let’s make this a great year!

You’re welcome! Thank you for being here!

to my knowledge, the black gunk is normal. its burnt oil coming out of the combustion chamber. in addition, im from newfoundland canada, and i havent had much of any trouble starting it in the cold. just make sure you use the choke!

@@b1ocko Thank you, I'll Keep that in mind!

What should I buy that is extra? If I wanted this to be a commuter what can I buy parts wise to be ready for the next mechanical failure?

You spent 1k dollars, you got what was basically the enthusiasts model, which like in things like fancy computers comes with some decent and powerful parts, which often require knowing a bit on how those work. Yeah this is a kit it requires a lot of sockets and stuff, bicycles require all that so when you get this you should have that for basic maintenance as you will be tightening everything every few weeks until things break in and then hopefully you get it where you just check up every month. 10 mm doesn't work everywhere, because difference in sizes lets things work well in certain cases. With even just the general bike you still require allan keys, and various sockets and wrenches so having those sizes will help you in the long run. Sounds to me you have various small mounting issues which would require you to think about how the bike works, slide a few things around, use the included adjustments for clearing. Hint "power keep tight to the frame" what I mean is , the drive transmission right? Have that as close as you can tword the frame and straight. Basically the whole engine should be slid over to the "right" ,'assuming that the transmission is on the left hand side of the bike' where the transmission is brought closer to the bike it's self and adjusted from there. There is several reasons including the efficiency of power transmission, the flex of the frame, and the clearance of parts like the muffler. As for your wide crank assembly, did the kit you buy say it came with it? Mine did, and all I got was the poor man's 49cc 4 stroke. Ngl ... the gas line issue sounds like you like putting it near a hot component which is a bit funny, there is clear ways to mount it along side the frame using basic zip ties. I DO NOT represent Bike Berry, and am just a random person here to offer slight perspective.