Thanks for watching. There is an entire playlist of these videos on the channel. It’s the “LS Tips and Tricks” playlist.

Glad the video helped you out brother. 👍🏻

Glad you found it helpful brother. Just to help you navigate the channel, you can search by playlists. There is a playlist Titled “LS SWAP TIPS AND TRICKS” that has a lot of LS basics videos. Then there are also desperate playlists for each of the project vehicles I’ve built in the channel as well. 👍🏻

I do what I can. Sometimes I might miss a few here and there that don’t show up in my notifications though.

Thanks for watching brother. Glad the videos are helping you out! 👍

Hello BIGKAT 87, Thanks for watching! Im glad this video helped you out!

Hello whysopogi, Thanks for watching! Im glad this video helped you out!

No problem brother. If this or any of the other videos helped you out then thats awesome.👍

Does it matter what size the tap is? I have a 9/16 x 1/4 barb fitting that I want to install but idk if the larger diameter will have drawbacks or benefits

As long as the hose diameter is the same and it’ll fit wherever you tap it, it really doesn’t matter.

Yea I threw that in there because I’ve seen people do it. But it’s not really a method I recommend. I prefer tapping the pump or using the pump spacers that are already tapped. Those are the cleanest looking and, in my opinion, most efficient methods.

Hello Michael Mullner, Thanks for watching! Im glad this video helped you out!

Thanks for watching! Most people complain that I OVER EXPLAIN things. Lol. If this video helped you then it was worth it to me!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

@@BadLuckGarage indeed it did. Just fixed a leaky crossover on my lt1 Z28 today. Much appreciated 👍

There is also an eBay company called lsx innovations that sells them in different sizes. Thanks for watching!

What kind of jeep? I am on the tail end of a 5.3 swap into a YJ

josh hristov 03 Tj the Jeep in my profile picture

Glad it helped brother. Just remember to follow the proper fill procedure to bleed all the air out when you fill it as well.👍🏻

Bad Luck Garage yes forsure thanks bro

Hello therpmstandard, Thanks for watching! I appreciate the kind words. Im just trying to help out people with little tips here and there. As for the video quality, I know they arent the best right now but I just got some new editing software so Im going to take some time and learn to use it. Next when I get some free cash will be a camera that stays in focus. LOL. Im new to this you tube thing and getting kinda old so my learning curve is a little steeper than it used to be but I hope with enough research I can start making somewhat decent videos and that people can save themselves some time and money by learning from them. -Robert

Robert your doing a better job than you think. I mean I am a Ford guy and I tune in to your videos. I do know know a lot about LS engine power but not as much as you do bro. Keep it up. I want a boosted N2O LS swap in something cool one day like an RX7 or perhaps an 80's Porsche 944 etc.

When you decide to make that happen, maybe you should bring it to Knoxville. ;)

I am scared to get you all to tune me an LS. Will be way to much power lol.

I don't know about all that. We do budget stuff around here. 😉

Hello Joe Dirt, Thanks for watching! Im glad this video helped you out!

Thanks brother. Glad it helped you out. 👍

Well HOWDY! Lol.

Thank you sir! Glad it helped!😂

Thank you for watching JH! Glad this video helped you out!

Hello Andre Mora, Thanks for watching! Im glad this video helped you out!

Hello Sean Jhonson! Thanks for watching! I spend a lot of time on LS swap pages and forums so what I try to do is make videos answering the most common questions I see. It’s usually a lot easier to just post a link to a video rather than to type out a four page explaination every time someone asks the same question and with the video they get a more in depth explaination. 👍🏻

Bad Luck Garage THANKS AGAIN! It does save lots of Time and I did subscribe to your page! Awesome info!!

Anytime Sean! And thanks for the sub. 👍🏻

Hello BobWilson84, Thanks for watching! Im glad this video helped you out!

Happy to help!

Hello asicerik, Thanks for watching! Im glad this video helped you out!

Well welcome to the family!

@@BadLuckGarage I'm really hoping that if the one hose I have left to replace doesn't fix my leak that it's this and not the rear main seal or freeze plug. Leak is by firewall somewhere.

It could definitely be leaking from one of the rear steam port block offs. It’s fairly common.

I’m doing 5.3 swap in my 70 cutlass supreme if you have any pointers on a good raidiator fan set up for it

Hello FlyByN1te, Thanks for watching! Im glad this video helped you out!

@@BadLuckGarage right on! I subscribed.👌👍✌

@@LO_P4N Thank you sir! Be sure to check out some of the project vehicle playlists!

Everything project we do on the channel has its own playlist and every step is shown in detail. I’ve hooked up gauges different ways on every swap I’ve done. Some through the stock pcm, some with converter boxes, some I’ve used a Holley dash. All this info you’ll find in the playlists of each project vehicle. I will say I’ve never used factory gauges in any of my swaps. Generally they aren’t accurate and they usually read too low to use once you’ve swapped anyway. As an example, I don’t want an 85mph speedo in a vehicle that’s capable of 160 and I don’t want a tach that redlines at 4500 in a vehicle that revs to 6800. 😉

Yes sir. Nothing wrong with plumbing into radiator. That’s one of the options I mention in the video because that’s how the factory does it. 👍🏻 I just personally prefer the cleaner look of tapping the water pump but any of these methods will work just fine. 😉

@@BadLuckGarage Cool Thx again and right now it's about less work and more power for my GTO 🤣

Yes sir!!!👍🏻 And thanks for watching!

On 99% of swaps there’s not an expansion tank, just and overflow tank. Two totally different things. And expansion tank such as in most factory LS applications is pressurized and part of the cooling system. An overflow tank is not pressurized and may allow air to re-enter the cooling system if you run the steam line to it. Running the steam port to the radiator directly or to the output line in the water pump pushes the air to the radiator where it can be burped out into the overflow or even straight out of the overflow line in the full neck if an overflow tank isn’t used.

Thanks for watching Chris! The area you are drilling is right next to the outlet neck. There will be very few shavings that make it inside and those will fall out of the water neck when you flip the pump over. But if you’re a “just in case” type of person, you can also blow some compressed air I. Though the other inlets and outlets for good measure. 👍🏻 -Robert

Thank you for the reply huge help

Yes sir. 👍🏻

Thank YOU for watching! Glad this video helped you out!

No

Thanks for watching Edgar! I don’t really see how it could. Not connecting the steam line and properly purging the air out of the cooling system can cause air bubbles and therefore hotspots but LS engines are notorious for being lean on the back two cylinders and I honestly have no idea why. I originally thought it had something to do with air distribution but from what I have heard it’s a common issue no matter what I take is used. Just one of those weird rumors that gets passed around on the internet. It does seem that number 7 is usually the one that always ends up popping though. When I decapped my injectors for the turbo build, I ended up with a couple injectors that flowed slightly more than the others and I actually put them on #7 and #8 just as a precaution based on this.

Glad to hear that brother. 👍🏻

The drill bit isn’t tapered, the tap is. I misspoke and by the time I figured it out the video already had like 40,000 views so I said hell with it. Most people understood what I meant anyway. 🤣

The heads are identical. They can be swapped side to side.

@@BadLuckGarage the steam ports will be at the back then

The heads have steam ports drilled on both ends.

@@BadLuckGarage yeah I know that I thought that you said in your video that later models got rid of them. Not just capped them of

@@briansbrain3624 Yea I think you misunderstood brother. They got rid of the 4 port system on the later models. But the ports are still cast into the heads. They just stopped using the 4 port manifold to connect them all.

It’s a possibility. Air pockets in the system will cause serious issues. Make sure you follow the procedure to remove air while filling and you’ll usually be good. 👍🏻

Thanks for watching! Not sure what a “dome” is though. Lol.

intake

lol, ok that makes more sense. Yes we have issues with them rusting as well. Usually not bad enough that we cant clean them up and repaint them though.

Same here right across the water in cape breton.

Doing knock sensors on my 2000 silverado and noticed the nipple where the hose connects to TB is rusted badly. Previus owner neglected the cooling system. I'm thinking of blocking the rear and buying a billet crossover with bleed for the front.

Jon Smith thanks for watching! thats actually a pretty common modification on LS thermostats as well. 👍🏻

No problem 👍

Glad this video helped you out brother. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Doesn't matter but when you're finished then you'll be filling the radiator afterward so might as well leave it off.

@@BadLuckGarage ok thanks

anytime brother 👍

An "R" bit is .339". If you dont want to use the R bit, the closest thing to it is probably a 21/64 which is .338".

@@BadLuckGarage Thanks good to know

A flush has nothing to do with ridding the system of air . Flushing is done to remove buildup, contaminants, and old coolant. Sounds like either you misunderstood what he was saying, he misunderstood what you were asking, or he has no clue what he's talking about.

I suppose you probably could but be sure that it stays lower than the coolant level in the tank to prevent reversion from pulling air back into the engine. Not sure if that would happen but wouldn't be good if it did. I prefer the water pump method just because its clean and eliminates extra hoses from the engine bay.

That will be the steam line .. that you talking about can you please let me know thank you for your time

Thanks for watching. I misspoke a bit in the video. No the bit is not tapered. The tap however is and thus your taped hole will be when you finish tapping it. This is why you don’t want to to go too deep with the tap. If you do, your fitting will bottom out and will not seal properly.

Turn it upside down. If you’re drilling right next to the outlet as I suggested then most of the shavings will just fall out and you can blow compressed air into the engine side of the pump while still holding it upside down to blow the rest out.

Upper hose is just a stock 99-07 Silverado hose. And there is an entire playlist in the channel showing how to make the air box.

Thanks brother. I made that playlist just to help people out with basic swap questions that I kept seeing over and over on forums and Facebook groups.

This is covered in the video.

@@BadLuckGarage yes sorry forgot to delete

@@franciscoc2524 you’re good brother. I’m horrible about commenting halfway through videos too. Lol. 🤣👍

That works if you really need all four. 👍🏻

On an LS engine the thermostat is on the inlet side of the cooling system. So you would essentially be taking the air/steam pockets and pumping them right back into the engine. Pretty much defeating the entire purpose of the steam vents.

Either clean them or just bypass the throttlebody altogether like I’ve shown in previous videos. None of the vehicles you see us swapping on this channel have the steam line running through the valve body anymore. Even the factory LS equipped vehicles on the channel like the Chinavette and the Abby have all had the throttlebody bypassed. I’ve probably shown that process in at least 12 different videos. Lol

You shouldn't feel dumb. You should feel smart for researching and figuring out what you need to do brother.👍

Glad this video helped you out brother!! These are Denali engine covers. There are also variations of these same covers that came on Escalades. 👍🏻

99-up V8 Silverado.

Could be depending on where it seems to be coming from. It’s fairly common for the oRing style blockoffs to leak where they bolt to the head. So if it appears to be coming from the corner of the block thats the first place I’d check.

No sir that’s not at all what I’m saying. What I’m saying is stick with what you have in most cases. However, as with anything there are always exceptions to the rule. If you’re doing a really high HP build then it may be worth it to do a four corner setup. Another example where a four corner would be a good idea in my opinion is if you’re building an engine for something like a rock crawler where the engine may be ran hard at extreme angles for long periods of time. But for a mild build or a stock-ish application, I would just use whatever your donor engine came equipped with.

Yes but it won’t be as accurate as putting them in the head. I’m guessing your new to the channel but I have several builds with videos showing me enlarging the port that’s already there on the passenger side head and tapping it for a 3/8npt fitting. I do this to every engine to allow a place to run a temp sensor for factory gauges or for a fan switch. Only takes 5 minutes and will give you the most accurate readings.

Thanks

@@kenwood7095 No problem brother. 👍

Not sure. That seems completely pointless to me other than just having a way to burp all four corners easily during fill. That’s essentially just blocking off the ports which could be done with four factory block offs instead and not have all the extra lines running around. Like I said, the only reason I could see to use that kit is it would allow you to loosen one line while filling the coolant to burp the system or maybe allow the air to gather at a central point to burp it easily from time to time on a racing engine where you’re contantly changing fluids.

I have absolutely no idea what you’re asking.

Nvm I’m still watching and i see that’s how you run it

But if you can what’s the bit size and tap size?

Everything is covered in the video

Hey Doug, thanks for watching! I’ve seen people plumb it to the heater outlets but my problem with that is that neither of those outlets pumps the coolant to the radiator. In my opinion, in order for the steam vent system to function the way it was intended, it should be plumbed into one of the areas mentioned in the video so that any trapped air makes it way straight to the radiator where it can be purged out through the overflow system instead of being pumped back into the engine.

Bad Luck Garage. Thanks for the fast response. This is gonna help me with my issue. Thanks again have a good day

Doug Watson you too brother.

The 4 port steam ports aren’t a gen3 or gen4 thing brother. They stopped using them in most applications early in gen3 production.

@@BadLuckGarage Well I'm just a shade tree mechanic and I don't work on the things for a living, so I'll default to your knowledge, but every Gen3 I've touched had the front and rear's knocked out of the head for 4 ports. The LQ4 I'm rebuilding right now out of a 2500HD is the same way, both front and rear's. But like I said, I prefer the old truck engines, easier to work on and not as much dumb tech to "clog the plumbing" so to speak, so that's all I've chose to work on.

As long as it’s in good shape, yes, absolutely. Every swap on this channel except the DR Nova has started off with a stock radiator and cooler just fine.

Way back then I probably did. Now days I recommend using Hercules tape. You can get it at Lowe’s and it’s resilient to just about all liquids, even gasoline.

14:32

@@BadLuckGarage thanks man... not sure how I missed that.

It happens brother. 🤣👍

no

Bad Luck Garage ok so how would I go about filling it back up?

@@cristianh8 I explain that in the first 3 minutes of the video. start at the 2:00 mark

If you have vacuum fill machine you shouldn’t have any trapped air if done properly. I’d still recommend running the steam line but I know several people that get away without it.

@@BadLuckGarage ok man im going to do get an aluminum radiator and have a fitting install on top of the radiator close to the filler cap just to make sure steam gets to the top of the radiator

Thanks for the info i appreciate it

You should run it as explained in the video.

Interesting theory, but GM was already using reverse flow cooling on the LT1 engine that the LS1 replaced, so im not sure why it would have been considered new technology in need of licensing.

GM only paid for the LT1/4 and GM Did their own deal with the LS1 and were sued and then went back to the conventional cooling. The 1998 Pontiac Firebird catalog actually advertises the reverse cooling in the new LS1.

Interesting. I’ve never heard that before. 👍🏻

You got my interest peaked brother so I checked it out. Looks like they were sued over the reverse cooling of the LT1 back in 94 but the case was thrown out. At least that’s all I could find. Didn’t find anything about the LS. 🤔 I really would like to read more about this though.

If it’s using coolant and you think it’s burning out the exhaust, the first think I would do is pressure check the coolant system. You can usually borrow the tool from any auto parts store and you’ll get your deposit back when you return it. It certainly sounds like you may have a head gasket leaking from your description. But of course diagnosing problems over the internet is kinda hit and miss. I would start with the pressure check and go from there. As for the fill procedure I use, generally what I do is disconnect the top hose at the radiator and disconnect the steam line at the radiator as well. Then fill the engine with coolant through the top hose until I see it coming out of the steam line. Next reconnect the steam line to the radiator and top the radiator off as best you can. Then pour WATER into the top hose till it’s completely full. Then quickly stick the top hose back into the radiator and tighten the clamp. I say use water specifically because you WILL spill some before you get it back on the radiator and you don’t want to dump coolant all over the ground. After that, top off your coolant tank to the full cold mark and drive it till it gets to temp so it starts circulating coolant. Drive it for about ten minutes after that then top off the coolant tank if it has dropped and your done. The real question here is did it get hot and blow a head gasket because it had air pockets, or was it getting hot and low in coolant because the head gasket was already blown or was there another issue such as a stuck thermostat that caused it to get hot in the first place? If you pressure check it and it checks out ok, then follow the fill procedure I just gave you. If it’s still running hot and losing coolant after that then you need to look for leaks elsewhere. Water pump is a usual culprit especially if the truck sag for a long time without being driven. The important thing is to not panic and break it down step by step and eliminate possible problems one at a time so it’s not overwhelming. 👍🏻

Thank you so much for your help something I've noticed is that my truck doesn't warm up to about the halfway mark if I turn the heater on ..and I keep noticing I'm getting air sucking in whenever I open the resevoir cap..since I have no radiator cap. and then the water flows up to the top of the reservoir.. ..but yes from the moment I start the truck until I stop it I'm getting sting buildup on my tires and see steam coming out of my pipe constantly...but my truck has not overheated once but it keeps on the heating up to the halfway point..I parked the truck with the front way up in the air on the driveway to try and let the water back down and got it filled but now when I unscrew the cap the air sucks in real quick and pushes the water out of the top of the reservoir...but I can tell that my top radiator line is full of air now but I just got done filling it at my house and then drove it to my mom's house and parked it back up in the air and now it's gushing water out the reservoir again..but it has yet to show overheating on the gauge once but I'm wondering if maybe my gauges wrong now...never had a problem before.. the truck is at a hundred and sixty thousand Miles though and I did have a converter to come loose on me and just had all that cut off and dual exhaust ran but now I'm getting steam.. I know I had a coolant leak a couple years ago and I've been fighting with trying to get the coolant tops back off ever since then it seemed like... I thought the hole in water pump was leaking. But it was bottom reservoir hose..I just wasn't sure if my truck was supposed to bleed itself or what..after it sat for about six months with me starting it every now and then waiting for$$ the converter fix to dual exhaust I kept running and checking it . But after the dual exhaust fix now I'm getting steam. And it's been a month straight...of checking water.losing water .when driveing .but not from water pump..best I can tell..so guessing intakes gasket won't fix this ?.like on some chevys .... I know I'm getting an code now .for the evacuator plug on top of the intake whatever that thing is with the hose that goes to the back of the intake .since the cats r gonei was thinking maybe something to do with that.?...or can I delete the EVAP sensor thing and EGR since I deleted the cats and back O2 sensors too ?.before I have the computer reprogrammed .I noticed there's plugs to block off those two things but I didn't know if those were for my factory truck after its reprogrammed or for ls modified conversions kinda things..and yes thank you I'm trying not to panic I just didn't know how the water system worked in this truck and all I keep getting are these conversions videos ..lol..but I'll try what you said to do again I wasn't pulling the steam line from rad .I was undering it from the block and letting it leak out. okay so I should Park this on a hill and then try and get as much water in both of those pipes as possible and then run it up to temperature? And then what again?.just check it from the reservoir cuz when I crack that open usually the water moves up to the top now all of a sudden...so just fyi..and thank u so much for ur help...I'm trying not to get upset here and overwhelmed but if its head gaskets I'm screwed cuz I can't do this kind of work anymore with my back and disabltys ugh..I have babied this thing since I got it and always took very good care of it ..since I got it with 20k on it ..now 157k..:''(( ..gonna suck if that's what it is .but sounding like blown head gasket more and more go me .just wanted someone that knows better to tell me ..I know hard to diagnose on net..but I think we already know..lol..:''''(..can't afford this stuff lol...I was hoping to save up for pushrods and lifters here soon and replace the head gasket when it was needed but now I'm going to have to do it regardless and then save up for the parts and then fix it again sounds like ..man this sucks .lol..hey thanks again .and anymore info will be great.!!:):)I really appreciate it a ton!!.

also I saw one video of course I'm not sure if I'm doing this right but with the truck running and the reservoir cap off I keep squeezing the bottom line and the top line hoping to get some of the air out of the lines....and when I squeeze the top line I noticed that I can hear a tink tink tink tink sound...So I was assuming that was the thermostat making that sound..I just don't know if I'm supposed to be trying to get the air out of this thing with the reservoir cap on or off I don't know if I'm making it worse or any better...I was hoping pouring water in the reservoir and then parking it on the hill would make a difference but it didn't really seem to help any... My luck I need a water pump to but I just can't tell .what to do first. and I'm assuming with the pressure checker that if it leaks off then it's got a blown gasket?..you just put that thing on with the engine off? And then if it doesn't hold pressure it's got a blown head?..never used one before....I'm pretty sure it's a head gasket because I let it run for about two hours straight and just saturated the entire driveway with water but it was just in steam form but it eventually built up on my tires but I was trying to watch the temp gauge and it never went above right below 210...like usual...but when I turn the heater on it drops down to the halfway mark and it doesn't go back up unless I'm driving it...weird..but when it does go up to full temperature I jump out and squeeze the lines to try and milk the air out of them and they don't feel any hotter than normal.. and when I drove it it wasn't like it was hot outside or anyting hell it was almost freezing...lol..so..just lost here .lol..trying to give as much info to help u help me ..lol..TKS so much for the info...I really need the help here. Lol.and seems like everyone has a fix and that's what got me here .lol..seems like u know so I'm trusting u only at this point .lol... I was just about to cut my radiator line and put that hack in so can bleed air ..but assuming I don't need it .being factory setup still lol...so TKS again .and I'll watch for next reply..tk u tk u tk u

This is not a performance modification. It’s a required part of the cooling system installed by GM and it’s purpose is explained in the video.

I would prefer to do it off the engine and blow it out after with compressed air. That being said I have been known to drill and tap heads for 3/8 coolant temp sensors while they’re still in the engine so I really can’t say much. Just use a lot of grease on the drill bit and the tap to catch shavings if you chose to do it on the engine. There really isn’t much that some small shavings could hurt in your cooling system anyway to be honest. They should pass right through the pump and worst case scenario is maybe the thermostat gets stuck barely cracked open on one BUT as easy as the pump is to remove I’d just do it off the engine.

@@BadLuckGarage thanks for the knowledge. I just got my front end assembly installed and was hoping to not have to go back into it. Gonna think on it for a while. Thanks again for the knowledge and quick response. Just got yourself a new subscriber!!

Glad to help brother. If you know anyone else who could benefit from this or any of my other videos be sure to share! And thanks for the sub. 👍🏻

yea I’m guessing the engineers at GM probably didnt account for that. 😂 Of course in a marine application isn’t the coolant system open anyway? I mean I’m not a boat guy but don’t most boats just circulate water from the lake or whatever through the engine? If this is the case then pressurized steam pockets shouldn’t really be an issue anyway. 🤔

Bad Luck Garage not all boats are open circuit

Like I said, not really a boat guy but same principles apply. Wherever the highest point on the engine side of the cooling system is should be vented.

Just remember, if you don’t follow the correct fill procedure, steam line or no steam line, you WILL have air pockets and the engine WILL run hot! I drive myself crazy back when I did my first LS swap trying to figure out why it kept getting hot. Finally figured out the system just wasn’t full. As for the China aluminum radiators. That’s what we’re running in the DR Nova and she stays at 205-210 degrees, same as all factory thermostat LS engines.

@@BadLuckGarage yeah mine take few minutes to get up to 180-200 can cruise around on if I lay into at all it will jump to 220 no problem running a BBC electric water pump

It doesnt pass through the throttle body by a vacuum line. It flows through a small cavity in the throttle body to warm it up. If you don’t live in a cold climate you can bypass it.

@@BadLuckGarage nice. Cleared up alot.