Making a Boring Head Arbor for the Proxxon FF 230 Milling Machine using the Proxxon PD 250/e Lathe

Рет қаралды 48,731

Күн бұрын

The first 1000 people who click the link will get 2 free months of Skillshare Premium: skl.sh/adventureswithaverysma...
For some time I've wanted to be able to use a boring head on the Proxxon FF 230 milling machine, but it hasn't been easy to sort out. Most commercially available boring heads use an arbor to fit into a standard taper such as NMTB, R8, or Morse, but the Proxxon has just a short collet taper machined directly into the spindle.
The most obvious solution was to fix up an arbor with a straight shank to fit into a collet, but the largest collet is 10mm, which is quite a narrow shank for something as heavy as the smallest boring head I could find for a reasonable price. Instead I decided to make an arbor which would screw onto the outside of the spindle using the collet clamping thread.
Onshape model:
cad.onshape.com/documents/d44...
This project has been a major lesson in difficult machining. To start with it's a large part for a lathe as small as the Proxxon PD 250/e, but I also made life harder by choosing difficult material. EN24T is similar to pre-heat-treated 4340, and can be very hard work to machine. In this video I try and show all the problems I had, do my best to explain how I got around them, and show where the project nearly failed.
It's a lot of content, and I had to squeeze it into 20 minutes to be eligible for Emma's Spareroom Machineshop toolmaking competition, which can make the pace rather fast. Keep up, it's gonna be a wild ride.
Check out this playlist of all the competition entries:
• #tmc2020
#TMC2020
This video was sponsored by Skillshare.
The links below will financially support the channel if you use them to buy stuff:
Machines:
Proxxon PD 250/e Lathe: ebay.to/3eFtyxc
Proxxon FF 230 Milling Machine: ebay.to/3fEWDua
Material:
EN24T 45mm Round Bar: ebay.to/2WoFgG3
Tools:
Lathe threading tool, 10mm, right handed: bit.ly/3h8SCyo
Brazed Carbide lathe tool set: bit.ly/3ha8K2m
DCMT Insert Lathe Tool: bit.ly/3eyqFhD
00:00 Introduction
01:38 Cutting and cleaning up the stock
03:39 Drilling and boring the internal thread
08:55 Single pointing the internal thread
11:58 Turning the external thread
15:03 Single pointing the external thread
18:02 Testing out the arbor
Edited with:
kdenlive 20.11.70
audacity 2.3.3
Music:
Easy Lemon by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Source: incompetech.com/music/royalty...
Artist: incompetech.com/

Пікірлер: 138

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

The first 1000 people who click the link will get 2 free months of Skillshare Premium: skl.sh/adventureswithaverysmalllathe2

@CraigsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Great tool Alistair! A boring head and arbor is very useful to have in the arsenal. Lots of challenges were overcome in this episode, and I love that you show any difficulties that crop up, and the different approaches you try out to work through those difficulties. Very cool video. Cheers, Craig

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Craig! The making of your machinists jack is on the way, I promise. Won't be the next video, or the next but one probably, but hopefully this year.

@Arthur-ue5vz Жыл бұрын

Thanks! It's always instructive to see what happens with other people's projects. Something always goes wonky but we learn from that we know that could just as easily have been us. 🙂

@ericstoever9577 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for sharing your skills and how you improve them, by showing your honest errors. Much appreciated! Be well, be safe, and take good care.

@ericstoever9577 3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for sharing good and not so good in equal measure. It’s a testament to your confidence. Be well, be safe, and take good care.

@EverettsWorkshop 3 жыл бұрын

Oh man, that looked like you had both a high degree of frustration and end satisfaction with that one! I like your idea of it though, it keeps as much rigidity as possible and keeps it short as well.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! I'm happy with the design, though the end result highlights that my mill is too small for this boring head. Lessons learned that I need to be much more careful with material choice when pushing the limits of my gear. My first successful recovery from losing thread alignment too! I love your machining videos, thanks for dropping by!

@mrspontanious 3 жыл бұрын

Another way you can thread externally moving away from the headstock is to just simply flip your cutting tool upside down and reverse the machine :)

@Casey_Schmidt 3 жыл бұрын

This episode is the true meaning of "adventures with a very small lathe". This was thoroughly enjoyable!

@jmtx. 4 жыл бұрын

Glad the threading worked out in the end. Good to see patience in the realignment paid off.

@rayeaglenz 4 жыл бұрын

Always interesting, yes that tough material did make cutting more difficult, yet you did well, thank you for filming, editing, narrating, and sharing :)

@AlmostMachining 4 жыл бұрын

Absolutely great show. Wonderful seeing you work through your power requirement issues as well. Fantastic ! Great looking and working adapter.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

Glad you enjoyed it

@OzymandiasSSS 3 жыл бұрын

I always love watching your content. Keep up the good work!

@metalmanglingmariner 4 жыл бұрын

As always a facinating posting with a couple of things I can use on my Sieg SX2LF

@vikassm 3 жыл бұрын

Very nice video! You could also make a vertical Line boring tool (mounted like a fly cutter) for end radii cuts like that, if that's something you do regularly. Works just like using a tailstock live center or a steadyrest for long workpieces in the lathe, except vertical. All you need: 1. Hardened shaft with hole(s) drilled & reamed for inserting an 8mm dia HSS blank and holes drilled+tapped to clamp the inserts. (Or just silver solder the inserts) 2. HSS insert, cut and ground for the job/material. 3. Bottom plate with bearing(s) that can through-fit the hardened shaft. 4. Clamps to position the bottom bearing plate square and exactly under the boring shaft. The shaft should be lightly ground at the end for a loose sliding fit inside the bearing(s). This changes the loading significantly. Instead of a cantilever boring bar, you now have a simply supported boring shaft. All other things being equal, the cutting tool will now move only half as much, but in practice it is much better than half as much with a remarkable improvement in surface finish. For even higher loads you can make 1 or 2 holders like a knurling tool, except with 2 cheap 608 bearings to support the shaft somewhere close to the cutting edge.

@Kineth1 4 жыл бұрын

As always, excellent production value! I also greatly appreciate your sharing of the errors that were made, and how you corrected them. I would like to see some detail on the method for realigning/re-indexing the threading tool after erroneous dis-engagement.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! I think I can work out a way to show the re-alignment process, but I'd need to come at it with a much calmer level head than I had at that point in the project. I was at risk of losing a lot of work, which made me stressed and irritable. I'll see what I can do, though no promises on how soon.

@EmmaRitson 4 жыл бұрын

Wow that's an awesome job Alistair. Lot of hrs in that. I have a bigger lathe, and I still regularly pick major projects that are too big for my machines! That's not an easily solved issue. Thanks again for a great video

@smallcnclathes 4 жыл бұрын

Emmas Spareroom Machineshop it is just one of those machine shop facts of life. No matter how long you deliberate over the size of the machine you buy, it will become apparent quite quickly that you got it wrong. This week it is too small, next week it will be too large.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Emma! I feel like this has become my channel's definiting feature: Pick something most people think can't be done on a tiny lathe, and try and do it anyway. Thanks for running the competition!

@ericmillot71 3 жыл бұрын

Bonjour, I love watching your videos. We have the same focus, and that; I like it a lot. Especially since like you I also have the Proxxon PD250 .... and the FF230 Milling Machine will soon arrive. Eric

@fungunfanatic 4 жыл бұрын

Bang up job, well done!

@ProfSimonHolland 4 жыл бұрын

excellent film. thanks for explaining why the proxxon lathe has less power at slow speed....i imagined it would have more torque..... electronic speed control...of course. .....and a nice mill machine part. best wishes.

@diggumsmack2 4 жыл бұрын

Awesome!!!! You're creating again!!!!

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

I never stopped, it just takes quite a while to make decent videos! I hope it was worth the wait.

@fcconstantino 4 жыл бұрын

@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe It worthed...

@MattysWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Gday, great job, I really enjoyed this video, goes to show that the size of the machine is no boundary, just have to take your time

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Matty! I loved your boring head video. I just wish my tool looked nearly as good as yours turned out. Best of luck in the competition!

@chrisarmstrong8198 4 жыл бұрын

Good work. A couple of flats for a spanner (or holes for a pin spanner) would be a useful addition. Recovery from accidental disengagement of the half-nuts is easy if you stop the lathe spindle before the thread chasing dial has moved more than one turn and don't manually move the carriage. Just run the spindle in the opposite direction until the dial returns to the number that you originally engaged it on and re-engage the half-nuts. It helps if you always engage the half-nuts when the thread chasing dial is on the same number (or mark the dial) when you first start the thread.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

Unfortunately there is no dial on my machine, and no half-nut. The carriage is permanently engaged to the lead screw, and the control for engaging it with the spindle is a dog clutch inline with the lead screw, in the headstock. On machines with a metric lead screw, and a dial, the charts to work out which numbers can be used are complicated and hard to read. I follow your technique though, and can see how it would work. Thanks for the tip!

@bulletproofpepper2 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing!

@Engineerd3d 4 жыл бұрын

Lovely work on that boring head. Its amazing how many import tools out there are built to inch standard.

@CraigsWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

It's usually to work in with an existing standard. e.g. Japanese camera manufacturers, who would normally use metric, do use 1/4" 20tpi threads for the tripod mount, because the world is filled with tripods with that thread. Also, I believe the inexpensive import boring heads are a clone of the US made criterion boring head, so in order to work in with that system, they use the same threads for the body to arbor connection.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

I think that's exactly it. In lots of situations it's much more important to have a globally accepted standard than exactly how that standard is defined. The camera tripod is a perfect example.

@cavemaneca 4 жыл бұрын

@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe it's for that unfortunate reason imperial units will be around for a long time, even if the US switched to metric tomorrow. Standard pitch checkers like you showed are cheap enough though there's no reason not to have an imperial set too.

@TomMakeHere 4 жыл бұрын

Nice work and perseverance!

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Tom!

@nashguy207 4 жыл бұрын

Great job on the machining and the video

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks 👍

@TheChrisey 3 жыл бұрын

What you need for that mini lathe is a modulated speed controller that can increase voltage to the motor as RPMs drop and then quickly decrease voltage again to maintain target RPM at less load

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 3 жыл бұрын

Funny you should mention that, as I've just been learning how to program a Variable Frequency Drive how to do just that. I'm not sure it would help much on this lathe as it is though, as I suspect the motor is just too small. A big beefy motor with a VFD is definitely looking likely for the Chinese lathe though.

@compassprecision 4 жыл бұрын

Good video. I really liked how close you were able to get the camera to the tools and workpiece.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

Cool, good to know those kind of shots are interesting. I'll make sure I keep including them.

@compassprecision 4 жыл бұрын

Adventures with a Very Small Lathe oh yeah, they’re definitely interested! I think they’re the most interesting shots.

@jcjensenllc 4 жыл бұрын

Many useful tips.

@Wyllie38 3 жыл бұрын

We use a lot of 16t 24t and 26w at work. Can be a real pain for certain machining operations. Great stuff on such a small lathe.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 3 жыл бұрын

I've never come across 26w. Is it a similar material?

@Wyllie38 3 жыл бұрын

Adventures with a Very Small Lathe yes it is similar. In my experience it’s even more difficult to machining but has very good post machining properties. Excellent toughness

@gangleweed Жыл бұрын

I went down the same path except I bought an arbor on EBAY with a 20mm straight shank to fit the ER 32 collet chuck I have as an integral part of my mill spindle....not being lazy but I like the professional totally machined and ground finish. of a shop bought item.

@craigtate5930 4 жыл бұрын

Nice lil project. I have only done 1 threading project so far, but eager to get some more in

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

Threading is one of those skills that is worth practicing, and trying different techniques. This channels has plenty of my screw ups in the videos to show for it, but the self-improvement makes it all worth it.

@craigtate5930 4 жыл бұрын

@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe good words of wisdom there. Eventually I will run out of excuses and just do it

@dr1verman 3 жыл бұрын

Love you too, keep making the video's

@TheKnacklersWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

Hi Alistair, Interesting build... Good luck in the completion... Paul,,

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

Many thanks! I've just subscribed to your channel, as I'm interested to see how the projects you've previewed and started turn out.

@TheKnacklersWorkshop 4 жыл бұрын

@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe Thanks for subscribing that is very kind of you... I will do my best to make the projects interesting...

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

@@TheKnacklersWorkshop A viewer can ask for no more. Best of luck!

@osgeld 4 жыл бұрын

I love you too man

@AL6S00740 4 жыл бұрын

just perfect :) keep it up

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you! Will do!

@fcconstantino 4 жыл бұрын

I am slowly buying the proxxon`s lathe accessories. Have just bought the fast changing tool and the 4 jaws chuck, I am looking now to the imperial gears and the cutting tool recently released by proxxon. Then if money allows the insert tools (but I confessing they seem to be too expensive for my pocket). I bought this lathe because of this channel. And I did not buy the mill because of this channel kkk. Opted for a resonable chinese mill from the same brand @Blondihacks have, but a more entry model. I am liking it a lot.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

These all sound like smart purchasing decisions to me! I'm really interested to know how well the 4-jaw Proxxon chuck works out, as I regret not buying it myself, but can't justify yet another chuck at this point. As I said in another comment, I don't think the Proxxon insert tools are a good buy. They don't look like anything particularly better than the cheap Chinese ones, and the price is high. Look for an 8mm tool set that uses CCMT inserts. When it comes to inserts, the cheap ones will be work, but consider buying professional grade inserts from Sandvik or Kennametal. Small mini lathes work best with finishing inserts (small depth of cut) with a small nose radius (0.2mm or 0.4mm). CCMT 060202 is my standard workhorse insert. I only use DCMT for hard to reach problems, like the ones in this video.

@marcin_szczurowski 4 жыл бұрын

You just made me aware that I'm missing LHS threading tools and I'll have to cut such a thread up to a shoulder. ;)

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

Sadly LH threading tools can be difficult to track down, and making sure to get the right inserts is even harder. Every time I glance at the Sandvik catalogue I find out another depth of complexity involved in insert threading tools. This time it was learning about the need to shim the insert to offset the flank relief.

@Rustinox 4 жыл бұрын

and exactly 20:00 minits video. Not more. Good luck with the competition.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

My only regret is that I had to slightly cut off the fadeout of the music. I hope it was worth the effort it took me to edit this down from a 1h 15m rough cut. :) Good luck with your recovery, and looking forward to seeing you back in the shop soon.

@bencekiraly6577 4 жыл бұрын

Greetings from Hungary

@wilcojuffer5940 4 жыл бұрын

Nice video also a gread job for the small lathe you make later a hole to put a pin in to lock or onlock the Arbor?

@Just1GuyMetalworks 4 жыл бұрын

Great job despite the limitations of your little lathe 😁. I enjoyed the video, but if your a masochist, does that make me a sadist? 🤣 Thanks for the video, good luck in the competition! Cheers 👍😁👍

@mpalaskokkalis1476 4 жыл бұрын

Τέλειο.

@johnnodge4327 4 жыл бұрын

Nice work on such a tiny lathe, and excellent video production too. You'll find the Chinese Minilathe has much more torque than the Proxxon. I've installed a 3 to 1 reduction pulley set on mine, which in conjunction with low range has made a massive increase in usability.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks John! Unforunately because I cheaped out on the Chinese lathe, it doesn't have a hi-lo range selector. Just a single direct drive from the motor to the spindle. At least the Proxxon has three belt ratios I can change between. That said the Chinese lathe has a much larger motor, so I'm expecting a bit more oomph out of it.

@johnnodge4327 4 жыл бұрын

@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe It's possible to retrofit the 2 speed gearbox on the Minilathe, if you want? It's also possible to do a 3 or more to 1 reduction very cheaply, as the pulleys needed are available off places like ebay, but will need a bit of machining to fit. The Minilathe is well modified, so there's loads of information out there on what can be done. ;)

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

@@johnnodge4327 I'm interested to know more about retrofitting the 2 speed gearbox if you know more. Got any videos or links? I'm concerned my tools may not be big enough to modify the headstock much though.

@dirtybarry7002 4 жыл бұрын

How do you find kdenlive stability wise? I tried editing my entry into #tmc2020 using kdenlive and I encountered no end of bugs. Olive seems to be working better for me, even though it is a bit more limited. (Note I am running a pretty old version of kdenlive, maybe a new version will be significantly better)

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

I'm using a really new version of kdenlive, and I update really frequently. Recent version 20 releases are a whole load better than it was around 18 and the early version 19 releases. I'm also engaged with the kdenlive dev community, and file decent bug reports when I find problems, which helps make sure there aren't bugs which affect my work. I did try Olive a while back, but found it just didn't have the features I need for my editing style. I also tried Davinci Resolve, but I don't have a computer that is heavy enough to run it well.

@sinadaneshkhah8537 6 ай бұрын

Thanks for your video. Ihave one emco unimat pc wooooooooow it cuts evry metals white every diameter also threads very very very easy and very veryyyyy strong.ihad never seen that stop when I cutting strong metals. Please change your lathe because will be boring for you. Iwish you all the best. Best regards-sina Von Österreich 🇦🇹

@robertodobesteanu1024 3 жыл бұрын

I own a proxxon pd 250/e lathe but I struggle with parting steel. I only use it for really small projects but the damn thing still chatters as hell. The most depth I need to cut is 3-4mm. I aligned everything and used a HSS parting tool as narrow as possible to put as little stress on the lathe but still unsuccessful. Can you give me an advice regarding this, please? Your videos convinced me to get a proxxon which I am super happy with, I only struggle with parting mild steel.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 3 жыл бұрын

Parting steel really isn't easy on small lathes, and I'm pretty sure this isn't unique to the Proxxon. General guidelines are that the parting tool should be as narrow as you can get away with, it should be very sharp, the torque should be high, and the speed should be low. Unfortunately low speed and high torque are almost impossible on this lathe. The best results I have had were with a carbide parting insert, which allowed me to run at higher speeds where there was enough torque. The tool has to be constantly fed inwards, or it will start rubbing. I honestly haven't found a really good solution though, and I tend to avoid parting if at all possible.

@robertodobesteanu1024 3 жыл бұрын

@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe thanks a lot for the reply! I thought it's just me. I'll try a carbide insert next.

@txiskofernandez6843 3 жыл бұрын

As always awesome. One question about xternal thread 1-1/" 18 tpi. How have you made pitch if Proxxon gears are for metric unit, not for imperial?? 18 tpi is supposed 1.44 mm pitch.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 3 жыл бұрын

I tried to explain what I did for this thread in the introduction, but I think I rushed the explanation. At first I couldn't quite measure it properly, and didn't turn up anything searching online, so I guessed it was close enough to 1.5mm. I machined it to 1.5mm and kept cutting until it fit. 18tpi is 1.41mm pitch, so to get enough slop for it to fit over the 4 turns the head has I had to over-cut it quite a bit, but the end result still held secure. If I was going to do it again I would set the Proxxon up to cut 1.4mm, which would be a lot closer, and the metric gear set can do that out of the box.

@txiskofernandez6843 3 жыл бұрын

thanks for your clear and complete answer@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe

@paulwomack5866 4 жыл бұрын

Given your struggles with torque, you really *need* to have fully sharp tools that can take fine cuts. This means (in turn) you need good grinding and honing facilities, for either HSS or carbide (and drills, I guess). Insert tooling seems antithetical to your best road forward.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

That was exactly my thinking when I decided to try the brazed carbide tool, but unfortanately I just don't have room for a grinder on the bench. I sharpened the tool in this video by hand, which took a really long time, and wore out two diamond honing tools. I finally have a bench grinder set up for both HSS and Carbide, but the only place I can use it is outside, so only when the weather is good. Looking forward to the day when I can afford a real workshop.

@markrainford1219 3 жыл бұрын

Do I detect a new mill in the pipeline?

@fcconstantino 4 жыл бұрын

HI did u buy the Proxxon insert tools or these are other brand?

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

They are not Proxxon branded tools. Most of them are unbranded Chinese tools. The inserts are mostly Sandvik branded, and the inserts matter much more than the holders.

@fcconstantino 4 жыл бұрын

Adventures with a Very Small Lathe do u think the proxxons one worth the 170,00 US dollars proxxon is charging?

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

@@fcconstantino I really don't think it is worth that just for three 8mm lathe tool holders. You can get a set with more tools for a fraction of the price, and I don't see any sign that the Proxxon ones are anything special. I'm particularly concerned that Proxxon don't say anything about the inserts , or even what brand the inserts are. I buy cheap chinese insert holding tools, but I carefully pick out inserts from Sandvik or Kennametal, and choose inserts designed for finishing work (small depth of cut), with a small nose radius.

@18bagabooo 4 жыл бұрын

I was waiting till you say how this is too big for the machine. I have the same boring bar on an Axminster/Sieg sx2 and even on that machine, with load being off centre a lot, machine becomes very wobbly.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

Yeah, I expected it to be very hard to use, but as the footage at the end shows, it's still useful. I haven't been able to find smaller boring heads for a reasonable price, until today when Colin posted the links in the comments here to 30mm and 38mm boring heads.

@Os.- 4 жыл бұрын

Certainly an interesting video, particularly where you've included the thoughts on the 2nd design and the issues, observations and resolutions during boring. Not sure what demand there would be for the 1h 15min video but if you had it done with commentary, it would be a shame not to upload it also (or even with a block of text per section) if there's more detail within. (Missed replying in the live chat but looking forward to more Chinese lathe videos!)

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

The 1h 15min version was a rough cut, I was always going to edit it down, but getting to 20 minutes often felt quite brutal. It meant I had to be very careful with some of the detail. There is no long directors cut of this video with commentary, just the rough version in the editor.

@Os.- 4 жыл бұрын

Was worth asking :) The short version still get's it across, just at pace.

@tinker5349 4 жыл бұрын

Hello, interesting project, I have a sherline boring head I might suggest a maximum bore for your boring head might be about 1.750" time will tell.

@smallcnclathes 4 жыл бұрын

Did not sound like you have a carriage stop, it might make life a bit easier if you made one. A future video? Excellent work on this adapter.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

You're right, I don't, but I really need one. Another project for the list.

@smallcnclathes 4 жыл бұрын

Adventures with a Very Small Lathe if you are going to make one, make two. For some jobs it can be useful to limit both ends of the travel of the carriage. I find two quite useful on my manual lathe, eg to set the limits on a internal or external groove.

@ollysworkshop 4 жыл бұрын

I feel for you, but despite the material you made a great looking adapter. I have a lot of unidentified steel, and the right bit for the job is always the bit that is made of something that is just unpleasant to machine.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

I'd rather machine this material than 316 stainless any day. At least EN24T is consistent and clean; it's just really hard on the tooling.

@ollysworkshop 4 жыл бұрын

@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe I agree, horrible to machine. I've tried threading 316 pipe for a Stirling engine, without a pipe centre. It wasn't pretty, it did work. Lovely stuff to weld though.

@Chevchev2 3 жыл бұрын

Didn't you check the eccentricity of the piece at minute 12?

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 3 жыл бұрын

Nope! There were no available surfaces to check. The face and the OD were both rough, unmachined faces. The opposite face was completely inaccessible, and the turned diameter was all inside the jaws. There was nowhere I could have put an indicator even if I wanted to. Perfect concentricity doesn't matter for this project, as a boring bar is always off-centre.

@fcconstantino 4 жыл бұрын

Did u see that proxxon has released a cutting tool for this lathe? Look for part 24217.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

I hadn't seen that before, thanks for the tip! It is kinda pricey though for such a simple tool. Have you ever used it? It looks as though the end of the parting blade is at an angle, which makes me wonder how well it would work.

@fcconstantino 4 жыл бұрын

Adventures with a Very Small Lathe I am considering buying but the Import fees from Germany are prohibitive.Probably I will wait till it reaches US. It seems it also has a hole for round tools which is great.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

@@fcconstantino I missed the round hole for boring, and I just assumed that round hole was to ease the flexture. It doesn't seem to be mentioned in any of the descriptions though, and no mention of the diameter. Are you certain it is intended for a boring bar?

@fcconstantino 4 жыл бұрын

Adventures with a Very Small Lathe kkk. No I am not sure. I am guessing

@CandidZulu 4 жыл бұрын

Good job in the end, but the choice of steel was unnecessary.

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

Absolutely unnecessary, but under the circumstances I didn't have much choice. Steel in such a large diameter but in short lengths isn't easy to get for a good price, and I don't have space to keep a huge stock. I depend on cheap offcuts for this kind of material, and the choice of grade is limited; often not specified at all.

@bostedtap8399 4 жыл бұрын

👍

@smallcnclathes 4 жыл бұрын

Bosted Tap hello, you pop up here too. He is very good isn’t he? The Proxxon makes my lathe look huge.

@bostedtap8399 4 жыл бұрын

@@smallcnclathes All I can say, is we must have great taste 🤔. I would be at a loss on these very useful small lathes, the smallest I have used was Boxford, 5" when I was 15 I think... Free machining, non ferrous materials and plastics are more suited to the direct drive machines, I think Lorch, Emco have reduction gearing giving a more useful range of torque. That was some tough material (EN 24T) of that size. Best regards John.

@smallcnclathes 4 жыл бұрын

Bosted Tap yes tiny machines certainly make one think about how to do the job in hand. My first cnc was an Emco, beautifully made just not enough grunt.

@hornan8142 4 жыл бұрын

@trumanhw 3 жыл бұрын

Do you watch This Old Tony ..? Or My Mechanics..? :)

@zxxvcc 3 жыл бұрын

Love you too babes

@colincreedtattoomachines 4 жыл бұрын

Another terrific job Alistair, Well done!! And the best of luck with the competition. I'd considered buying the 30mm Boring Head from Arc as it seemed to be more in proportion for the Proxxon Mill. www.arceurotrade.co.uk/catalogue/department.aspx?node_id=9917f8a3-2aea-4af0-a51f-a5e901070817 Yours appears to be the next size up at 38mm, so curious to know if you think it's something worth pursuing for the 30mm..? regards Colin

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

Great find! Thanks for that. My boring head is loads bigger, at 50mm, and I wish I'd found the 30mm head on Arc earlier. I did quite a bit of searching, and didn't come across smaller boring heads anywhere. I guess I should learn to check Arc first. The 30mm looks ideal, especially as it takes smaller lighter boring bars too, though I haven't seen a lot of 6mm boring bars available online, so that may be a limitation. The price on Arc is also quite high compared with the price I paid for the 5mm head on eBay, but based on Arc's reputation it's almost certainly worth it.

@colincreedtattoomachines 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Alistair, I greatly appreciate your thoughts. Hmm, maybe I'd be better off to use the 38mm version which uses the 8mm boring bars. www.arceurotrade.co.uk/catalogue/department.aspx?node_id=ea5bd27a-7160-492c-957a-a5e901093866

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 4 жыл бұрын

@@colincreedtattoomachines One more observation: Both the 30mm and 38mm boring heads have an M14 thread for the arbor, so neither would work with the design I made in this video. The arbors available for sale on Arc only fit standard tapers, or a 12mm straight shank (too large for the Proxxon) so they won't work either, so either boing head would require a custom arbor of a different design.

@colincreedtattoomachines 4 жыл бұрын

@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe Agree with your observation, my original intention was to utilise their 12mm Arbor & reduce it to a 10mm to match up with the Proxxon Collet. Still wondering if it''ll be worth the investment in money & time??

@paulwomack5866 4 жыл бұрын

I can offer an alternative method of cutting those large diameter threads to a shoulder, which also happens to address the torque requirement. In the 1930-1950 period of British Model Engineering, small (treadle!) lathes were pretty much normal. One classic attachment was a mandrel-handle. This is literally a handle (like a meat mincer) attached to the offside of the lathe, normally via an expanding collet inside the hollow mandrel. This provides some interesting abilities: Forward/Reverse at will Low Speed (not always an advantage...) High Torque Amazing speed control, down to zero. In the case of your large diameter thread, in tough steel, to an internal shoulder, a mandrel handle would have been a good solution. And you can make one easily, starting with a bicycle left crank as "raw stock". (plenty of examples around youtube and the wider net e.g. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q6mppa-imsy4mZ8.html )

@blueridgedsia 2 жыл бұрын

imo get a less viscous cutting oil

@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe 2 жыл бұрын

Interesting, why do you say that?

@blueridgedsia 2 жыл бұрын

@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe because when you cut steel it is best to use a thicker Sulpho-Chlorinated Fatty Mineral Oil. These are typically less viscous than your typical mineral based cutting oil and the sulphur acts like a molecular bearing over the steel which keeps the cutting tool cooler. People still use plain lard on plumbing pipe threading but there is more refined stuff available that wont get rancid. A company called Neatcut offers this in several viscosities, its great for steel.