older videos, but glad some of the content is still proving useful for the process :)

@@WatchComplications its all good stuff

Great to hear @peletonpete! Glad you're enjoying the vids and tinkering yourself.

it's a constant learning process for anyone, including me. glad you are finding my content helpful and thanks for watching. :)

Thanks!

Hey! Glad you enjoyed the series. The pad mount is connected via screws, but I very rarely take them off. The pad itself is a little squishy, which might be adding to the slight variations some. I do have several different pads. But almost all of the components on the machine are moveable, and once set where desired, the results are fairly good. What can lead to differences between strikes is the amount of pressure, as the amount of pressure can move some of the parts in unwanted ways if they don't have enough support (like the surface the dial mount is sitting on) or aren't quite tight enough. I also don't have the entire machine bolted to the table, and I really should. But for a home setup, I get by :) Thanks for watching!

yeah i would agree with that process change from what I showed a few years ago.

thanks for checking it out :)

Thanks for watching

hi Richard! I have no idea how I missed this comment a couple years ago. I’ve seen your channel, quite successful. For getting really fine printing automated/computerized pad printing would really be the way to go. Can you achieve fine detail with a manual pad printer, yes, but it is hard!

Usually something in the 22-26 micron range should work.

like a walkthrough of the parts? as opposed to showing the process? I do not yet, but could make such a video!

nothing on enamel dials to this point...

Esslinger has some, but i usually buy dials from ebay ofrei and other places and strip them down if necessary. I also get dial blanks custom cut with a laser.

stunned in what way?

Hello! Glad you are enjoying the series. I have not done any sort of electroplating, perhaps it's something I'll explore at some point. You mentioned brass blanks...did you have a particular metal in mind for the surface?

Watch Complications see I may be mistaken but I thought it was through electroplating that professional dial makers color their (often times brass) dials. I am looking to build a couple of my own watch and want to make a cream dial watch and a black dial.

@@Splitt2 electroplating can be used to alter the surface color, I just haven't messed around with it myself yet. I may at some point though...but from what I've read it takes a lot of testing and experience to get it right.

a trick : watch movies at Flixzone. I've been using it for watching a lot of movies during the lockdown.

@Benton Joseph yup, have been using Flixzone for since december myself :)

several very light layers of a white primer and spray paint. Spray very light layer, let dry two or three minutes, then spray next layer. Repeat for as many layers you want…usually I do 4-6 light layers.

I got the printer on ebay for around $300. You can search for pad printers with sealed ink cup and you'll see some similar listings. I waited about 6 months until I saw it at a price I liked. Looks like the ones listed now are higher in cost again. As for the cliche, are you asking about just buying blanks? Because the blanks you'd want to get will depend on the printer you get.

manual printing = things move regardless of material, but yeah that can help with an initial guide

for 2d vector I use either Graphic or Affinity Designer (both on mac app store). for 3d I use AutoCAD.

eBay, at around $300

There is no specific model number. If you google sealed ink cup pad printer or pad printing machine, you'll see them on sites like eBay and Amazon. The plates I have etched with a laser at a shop close to me. The depth is somewhere between 20-24 microns.

I use a multi-purpose ink and the thinner from www.imprintor.com/

Hello. I make custom dials, but for my own brand and projects. In other words, anything I make has my logo on it.

I would love to know this as well if you could share that would be awesome

several light layers of white primer applied 2 or 3 minutes apart. sometimes a layer of paint on top. the inks for the printing are a multi purpose ink for pad printing.

@@WatchComplications thank you man.

@@WatchComplications are there other ways to print letters/logos on a dial other than the techniques you’re using?

i’ve done it two ways, laser and water jet

Currently using this: www.imprintor.com/mulpurinkcom1.html

the business I used to do the etching had some plates from a previous customer/order so we used those. but if you google "steel plates" or "steel cliches" for pad printing you will find places that sell them

These are steel plates. I have them laser etched, no chemicals.

Good you do laser etching. But Swiss people who did etching with perfection that old technique is getting lost. My dad use to-do. First making a calligraphy master then positive film with that wooden camera and enlarger. Followed by photo emulsion method.

That's a very broad question. I'd say find a 39mm case via eBay or a watch parts distributor, see what movement(s) it's made for and if that would work for you. If not, then you'll have to decide on a movement for whatever complications you're wanting and either find a case that fits it or have a custom holder made to fit the chosen movement to a case you do like.

@@WatchComplications thank you for your reply. I actually searched 39mm case which returns the total diameter of case as 39mm and not the dial fit. But I'll still look for it. Could you recommend a no day/date (only time) movement for a 0.8mm thick dial? I'll figure it out after that as you suggested..but I'm unable to find a mechanical movement that will fit 0.8mm dial.

Dial thickness has nothing to do with whether it will fit a movement, all that matters in that regard is if the dial feet are in the right location. If you want a movement with a stem height that is correct for the case given the thicker dial the result will probably be a thicker case and custom holder. Depending on the case, you would need a dial diameter that fits the case.

multipurpose ink from Imprintor

Silicon pads on pad printers can mold around various shapes. The shape and size of the pad is important for what item being printed. One issue beyond the pad would be having a similarly domed fixture under the dial so that when the pad is pressed against the domed dial, it doesn't bend the dial.

watchcomplications.com/custom-watch-request/

The video shows the process of applying paint to the dial, or are you meaning the base dial color?

@@WatchComplications Yes, I mean how do you apply the base dial color?

sometimes I get dials with a white or black base already applied, sometimes I paint blanks myself using standard primers and paints from Rustoleum and Krylon

Thank you!

laser etching

@@WatchComplications thank you sir 🙏

@@WatchComplications can u tell me how the details to get the perfect result? The depth etc Best regards

the depth on mine is supposed to be between 22-26 microns

@@WatchComplications I'm still learning how to properly measure the original dial fonts and markers . so that it becomes very similar to the original when i stamp on it .I have tried many times but failed. would you tell me the tips?

I have a series of videos that show an example way of doing that. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ntN1rdyYqZzHgoE.html and kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aLh8mJVzys-oj6c.html are a good start.

ooook

It's laser etched. And you can't just buy them, at least not as simply as that sounds. You have to create the design to be etched in a vector format, buy the appropriate plates for the printer and the laser, and work with a manufacturer or laser shop to do the work. I would recommend finding someone as local to you as possible that you can work with face-to-face, as it is much better and things are never right the first time.

I wasn't quite as astute at video making back then, but if it helps, the printing was pretty sharp.

manual pad printing is a really long process

not good in what way? dial making isn’t the easiest thing or else any modder could easily do it. I have learned some tricks since this recording with the process, but it’s generally the same. A quick dial design can be done with a waterslide decal which looks ok to the eye mostly but isn’t near as high quality. I do wish more makers would share their work and processes, but alas they don’t.

I learn as I go, and have gotten better at it over time, and learned tricks (some of which you mention, like using transparent rigid foil for testing, leaving the cup over the print, etc) since I made this video, which was some time back. Eventually, I'll make another updated variant of the video. Many of the things you mention wouldn't have been necessary for me to figure out through trial and error if experienced people would create content and share. But alas, most people just hold onto their information and then point out when others make "mistakes." I thank you for your input, it is noted. But I also encourage you to make a video and share what you know if you wish others to do it "right." Although at the end of the day, if the dial turns out ok and it's my machine, parts, and ink...then I'm ok with that. And initial mistakes I made or will make are good because it's a learning process and it sticks. I'm more experienced now than I was then, but still have plenty to learn. Other thoughts......Industrial is easier than manual, as the machines are automated and computer controlled. Manual printing is another story. And there were no blobs in the ink ;) So what would you recommend cleaning silicone pad with anyway?

@@WatchComplications I'm from POLAND and i create content here localy, you have grate guys out there in US, John Caverman from pad print pros, and innovative Marking Systems. As for the manual printer, principale are the same, output per hour is much different. We use hand printer for test on a dayli bases. When you want to brake silicone pad, when it's New, from excesse of silicone Oil, u have to use alcohol, or fast thinner, on normal work, you should use adhesive tape to take out excess of dust and not transfer'ed ink. You should experiments with cycle time, pick up fast, than wait till ink dry a second or 2, than push it to part. U will see than, that whole ink will transfer from the pad, like it should be :) all ink should be on part, no residual ink should be visible on the pad after transfer. Its a matter of, plate, thickness of the ink, and cycle time. :)

The pads were pretty new when I was using them on this project. And yeah, cycle time is important, and can be a little harder with the manual printer, but I continue working at it. Thanks for the idea about tape.

what’s with the abrasive wording? and anyone who wants to manually make their own dials. I show many other tools in other vids and also alternative methods, but watchmaking tooling is near endless.