I was getting ready to type out the same thing you did . I'm glad I read this first . Everyone listen to what Bucky is saying he is 100 percent correct .

Who wants to do that! just adjust it and sell it 😂😂

Thanks man!

You are correct. Although for a tutorial video like this, I recommend you remove your timing cover and ensure you are at TDC before starting a project like this. It simply minimizes the risk of screwing your timing up. (I.e. your engine could be under compression depending where your piston is at)

On a spring and ratchet tensioner you should remove the spring before removing the tensioner. With the spring removed you can see where /how far the tensioner is extended out. If your tensioner is already fully extended then you will need a new chain. If there is still travel left pushing the rod will let you see if the plunger is seized. Also you can check if the ratchet is worn at is normal tension position allowing the tensioner to release, sometimes only one point on the teeth is worn.

+ISaeProductions No, just for the initial installation!

@@Motoposh thank you...had the same question as above... Writing from Costa Rica...Pura vida mae✌

Should try replacing your cam sprocket too. If thats worn down, your new chain is still going to have play and make noise.

I would definitely say you need to replace it asap. Up to you if you want to go with an automatic or manual! They are both just as easy to install

Sup Sean. It should be tighter than say your regular chain. The job of the cam chain tensioner is to constantly put pressure on the chain so that it's always tight. If you think it's too tight listen for a "whining" sound.. if you hear that then loosen it up a bit.

But if you begin to hear a rattle noise or a ticking then it's too loose. Tighten it a quarter turn until the rattle goes away and then another quarter turn to give it the proper tension

@@Motoposh when it was running it was running fine. i just didnt want extra pressure on the chain causing it to wear (well gears too).... Mine has a spring in it so not sure how much adjustment it has

Oohh you're good man, the spring tensioners provide a good amount of force to keep it tight 👌

Your timing chain is stretched or broke no way should the bolt go all the way in

A new gasket is definitely needed, sorry I didn't mention that. Mine came with a new gasket

sniperv25 umm not

If you over or under tighten it on some bike, it can.

Correct

Timing wouldn't be effected as long as you don't turn the engine over in any way. If the engine is turned over without cam chain tension it can jump timing

If the engine is on a compression stroke and you release the tension from the cam chain you can jump timing . Always make sure it’s TDC

☣droid☣ if you just did engine work, how is it going to be hot to do initial adjustment?

I would think you risk under tightening, no? When it warms up the chain stretches so requires slightly more tension. The screw that's applying tension isn't getting that much heat (plus it is dissipating a lot of it's heat fast since half of it is outside the engine), so it doesn't expand that much.

Id install semi tightened cold. Then retighten after heated. Not gnna hurt anything with a sligtly loose timing chain. Just robs some power.

@@v1kku correct chains loosen when hot

Tdc on compression will have all the valves closed on a single cylinder engine. Having the valves closed means you are not risking the valve springs rotating the cam once tension is released.

@@nexus7tablet610 I'm noob but why is rotating the cam bad if everything is bolted down the chain is not going to slip and timing will remain the same? I see no reason to do TDC unless you're unlocking the cam bridges

@@tim3062 if anything moves with the tensioner out it can cause the chain to jump out of alignment, of not corrected there is the possibility of valve to piston contact. On multi cyclinder engines some valve may be under spring tension with number one at tdc sometimes this causes the cams to shift when the tensioner is released, on a single cylinder engine all valve should be closed minimising the risk of things moving on their own.

No, you dont need to repeat the process. The process Is only for installation.

No no problem

@@Motoposh thank you so much sir. nice vids btw. im a new subsciber. more power

It's the same procedure

Yes mate oil is almost everywhere in the engine to keep it lubricated so it will come out of almost any hole if not plugged. it also has a o-ring which is there to stop that from happening

Guy Last Glad to hear that! Inspected the automatic tensioner on my Ninja a few months back, didn’t find TDC and after just watching this now, it made me panic thinking I might have messed up my timing!

The pro is you don't have to worry about the OEM spring/ratchet system braking and loosing all cam chain tension. The con is you have to make sure it stays properly tensioned, most people do it because it looks cool and never adjust it. Personally, I've only seen one OEM go bad, I converted that OEM to a manual. (Video on my channel) On a regular bike for track days and trails, I would keep the OEM tensioner in.

Blue

Definitely NOT red!!!!!

Yeah if you like giving yourself a hernia every time you adjust your tensioner 😂

Actually... yes haha. Mine can extend like half an inch past the stock one

@@Motoposh awesome man thank you for responding!! Subbed :)

The main failure mode of a non hydrailic cct is when the ratchet wears allowing the chain to push the tensioner back causing a chain rattle. Less common is the tensioner sticking so that it no longer self adjusts allowing the chain to rattle or the spring inside breaking so not enough pressure is applied to the tensioner. If your chain is rattling because it is stretched and your tensioner is fully extended then you need to replace the chain, a manual tensioner will just mask the problem. It is wise to release tension on the adjusting mechanism by removing the centre spring (or lock the adjuster screw in some cases) so that the tensioner can not extend whilst removing it for inspection. If the tensioner is not fully extended then you know there is a chance the chain still has some life left. Once the cct is out check to see if the ratcheting mechanism is good by trying to push the tensioner closed, if it releases then the teeth are probably worn and the unit needs replacing. If it holds without collapsing back you can try pushing/extending the tensioner manually to see if it is jammed. A sticking tensioner can often be cleaned and freed up, be sure to check that the locking mechanism works throughout the full stroke of the tensioner. If the ratchet lock works fine and the tensioner moves freely reset it and refit the spring, to see if the spring is still good. If the spring isn't physically snapped or broken the tensioner should fully extend readily , if it doesn't then the spring may have lost tension and needs replacing.

@@nexus7tablet610 how would i determine if the chain is stretched without ripping the engine down ? I have a ltz400 that has slap .. id rather not rip it down an put a new chain in if i can just get away with a manual adjuster it runs great etc was only trail ridden n never saw limiter till last year " didnt have it out this year " if that matters just trying to give as much info as i can !

@@dyllenger there should be specs for your cam chain, you have to measure the length between so many links with the chain under tension. Unfortunately this will likely mean removal from the engine to measure, by which time you might as well replace it as a matter of course.

I would reccomend off

No I wouldn't say so. The stock one is a spring one with constant pressure so the manual one if adjusted properly and frequently enough would really be better.

MotoPosh if I'm installing a new cam chain as well how would I adjust it properly?

To set the tensioner adjustment, rotate the engine forward while screwing the tensioner bolt in. When you feel the engine tensioner parts (guide, rollers, etc.) make contact with the moving cam chain, back the tensioner bolt out 1/4 turn and tighten the jam nut. (For the finer pitch thread on the APE Pro Series tensioner it is advised to back the tensioner up 1/2 of a turn.)

Link is in the description

cam lobes down on tdc is when u adjust

Stock chain tensioners on older bikes are terrible. The manual adjusters work great and keep it adjusted properly at any engine speed.

Would like to know how please

whats the procedure to convert it to manual ??

hm. well, it would have to be taken apart, i still have the fixture i used in my tool box to drill the threads and tap new ones into it, and had to machine a new screw because ace hardware didnt have a long enough bolt to use as an adjuster. however. this was done to my DRZ400sm. it works just as good, if not better than the ones youd buy from a store because i CNC machine my bolt, and tap it myself. most things made by machinists are several times better in quality. sorry guys. unsure how to explain the procedure. its just... .... i do it... thats all....

wait were you the one that messaged me? i got something in my inbox from you. however... i am not sure how to open it lol

@@1Corinthians151to4 how much would that cost?

Why?

If you must know.. I reinstalled the OEM spring tensioner. This video was meant to show the install process on any engine. I'm sure you know some bikes are known to have them fail.. (i.e. my 2007 triumph Daytona). Many people including myself switch to manual tensioners in this case because we're better off adjusting a manual one rather than waiting for the inevitable failure of the OEM one. On the Raptor the OEM ones are fine and aren't known to be a problem thats why I reinstalled mine.. but I did run the Manual one I installed in this video for months with zero problems. In my opinion, they're safe as long as you monitor and adjust them properly. Also I definitely did not install this as a power mod haha, thats dumb. And I tried my best to emphasize it should not be over tightened or too loose as engine failure can result. Thanks for your comment

You are not correct. There is not a single professional team MOTOGP or Superbike that uses an automatic tensioner. That is because Manuals are more relyable. BUT manual tensioners chain tension has to be re-checked for the correct tension periodically where automatics do not. But some automatics have proven to be unrelyable because of tearing housing and breaking springs. If you are going to check the chain tension every year or so you should get a manual tensioner. if you have 2 left hands you should get an automatic and have it installed by a dealer.

Appreciate your opinion but you have to understand one thing; mechanism or mechanicals do fail. There isn't any proven man made technology that would last a lifetime.

@@khairirais Try telling that to Nokia...

@Lucian Pop that may be your opinion, but it is an incorrect one. Automatic cam chain tensioners have been known to fail, ever since they started using them. When they fail, cam jumps timing, then comes piston to valve contact. You are welcome to keep your automatic cct, and wonder what that weird sound is,when your cam chain is loose, but I would rather spend $40 on a manual tensioner, than possibly a complete head, piston and cylinder, because the stock tensioner failed.