outstanding work Matt, I plan to buy one of your designed knives.

Very impressive Matt. When I saw the Sequoia knife for the first time I thought it must be a great skinning knife because of its rounded tip. I really like the shape of it.

Great knife, I just bought the mondo, I have an amateur question for you, what is the hole in the blade used for?

i had been looking for this knife ever since i watched dual survival with Matt in it, Great video keep up the good work!

Knew I had to get one of your knives. Lilly convinced me that I need at least two, the Mondo and the carver.

I was thinking of that line all the way through the video. their more like cuttlese's than knives

Both are good looking knives and do well for lighter chopping. I would consider them a replacement for something like a machete but probably not a hatchet. A hatchet is a much sturdier tool. I own a machete from Condor, a couple of longer blades like my KABAR 1249 Kukri, that make decent choppers and two hatchets, a Bearded hatchet made from Damascus steel and the Hults Bruk Aneby. I like using the other knives where they are most effective but, when it comes to 'hatchet' type jobs, none of these can come even close to a hatchet in performance. That being said, if all you need from a blade is for it to do stuff like we see here in this video, I think you could definitely substitute either of these blades for a hatchet.

It's not heavy enough to chop wood I have the primitive bush machete and was struggling to break down firewood

Wrong. That's jsut your minds theory. A small machete or any large knife. can't od what an axe can. Thats merkating trends ideas...

@@greekveteran2715 All I use are machete's and I have never needed a hatchet or an axe. I have tried them both and my machete did everything I needed and more. The key is how you swing it and make sure it is razor sharp, I use a flat file to sharpen my machete. I have been doing this for 45 years or so. I use the Ontario 18" and 12" machetes with Rothco Sheaths, they are both 1095 carbon steel and thicker than other machete's.

The 1st knife is called barong here in the Philippines used for beheading in the Southern part of the country..

I agree with you for axe over knife, but personally I think a somewhat beefier axe would be better. Something with a longer blade and at least big enough for a.....I forgot the proper name of the feature, but a hole for the axe haft so that you can craft hafts of varying lengths for different jobs as well as removing the haft completely so you can handle it like a small hand tool without a haft getting in the way. Although it's heavier it can perform well over a wider variety of jobs.

I agree about having a good small utility knife. I change up my blade options depending on what I'm going to be doing or where I'm going but I always have a good small utility knife. I usually pair it with the condor heavy duty kukri. That's my usual go to set up.

@@FiltyIncognito The axe tool your talking about sounds useful. I'm going to look into that.

@@oddballdynamics.9658 It's basically a broadhead axe with a single flat bevel. The flat bevel is so you can cut flat planes on lumber. I can't remember much about the original tip about using an axe like that, but I do remember that it was a broadhead axe variant that was well capable of felling trees and working lumber. Its purpose was a generalized cabin-construction tool, which could of course be employed in many other tasks. I think maybe it was an old hunting manual? Yeah that would make sense. I remember it was paired with the tip of also keeping a small knife for fine carving of both wood and carcasses. The idea was basically just pack the leather-sheathed axe-head with you when traveling, along with a decent whetstone and a tiny skin of oil, and use the axehead by hand to fashion a quick and dirty haft. You could either tapper it so you just slide the haft in from the top of the axehead until the size locks it in place via press-fit, or you can split the top of the haft and hammer in a wedge so the haft widens in the axehead, locking it in place. The split+wedge is what you'd usually use since it could work on a haft too small or too big to normally fit properly. You would use this until you can get your hands on some decent lumber cut from an older tree rather than a branch or trunk of sufficient size, which is better suited for the task. You of course want a harder material rather than soft, green wood. The ideal is to work up to a tapered haft (baked to age/dry it artificially, but not to the same degree as a speartip) so you can quickly switch hafts between long and short by just holding the haft just short of the axehead and hammering the bottom of the haft down onto a rock or something until the axehead dislodges from the tappered end. To achieve this you want the haft to flare fairly aggressively so that it's less the press-fit holding the axehead on and more the flared end keeping the axehead from flying off when you swing it. That's also the reason for using a tapered haft rather than wedged. Wedges take time to set and unset, and frequently doing so can make it easier to accidentally dislodge on impact. As someone hit in the skull with a flying hammer head from a badly fixed haft, I can tell you that you certainly don't want that to happen with an axe regardless of whether the sharp side hits you or not. Just in case, a tip with single-bevel cutting tools: Never sharpen from the flat side, and never finish the process with pulls towards the edge.

@@FiltyIncognito I found something called the vario 2000, but it's nothing like what your describing, this one bolts on to the handle. I can picture what your describing. I'll reply again if I find what your describing.

If you plan to go live most of your life in the wildness get a machete an have it professionaly wire wrapped. Millions have been successfuly using them in tropical jungles.

Axes are great. But when in the jungle you want a machete like blade.

Super Moc hesky 👍👍👍 🇨🇿🇨🇿🇨🇿🇨🇿🇨🇿

I thought he looked familiar

1075 is the tougher version of 1095 so I heard.

1075 is good, especially on big blades. It has less carbon than 1095 so slightly less edge retention but more toughness.

@@harvesterbladeco Thanks for that, I'm a newer bladesmith and I hear over and over 1075 is too soft. I have some bar stock 1075, now I feel better about using it. Thanks! 🙂👍

@@bradt8019 I think everyone starts out with that. Nothing wrong about it, just newer steels can be better. I'm using 52100 now and for not much more expensive it holds a great edge.

@@bradt8019 I believe for larger knives you want softer steel. Otherwise they break. So for this thickness 1075 is perfect.