Measuring Finger Strength!! Pro Climber vs. Amateur Climber! How Big is the Difference?

Рет қаралды 184,350

Күн бұрын

I did some quantitative finger strength tests with pro climber, Delaney, and super strong amateur climber, @AlbertOkay!
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Пікірлер: 169

@AlbertOkay 4 жыл бұрын

Next time we climb together you'll be pulling the crane off the bar! Great time training with you!

@GeekClimber 4 жыл бұрын

😆😆 It was great training with you, Albert!

@Peter-kt3uj 4 жыл бұрын

@@GeekClimber try this with Magnus mitdbo

@sevs802 3 жыл бұрын

Quick Summary Data for the Geeks out there: Geek Climber 20mmr(63.7%) 20mml (61.4%) 10mmr (34.2%) 10mml (32.6%) Albert Ok 20mmr (62.6%) 20mml (73.3%) 10mmr (37.0%) 10mml (57.0%) Delaney Miller 20mmr (78.0%) 20mml (84.0%) 10mmr (67.5%) 10mml (64.8%)

@DavidRodriguez-rt7bx 4 жыл бұрын

The woman is like kinda trying and the second Guy IS almost breaking his fingers trying

@vojta98 3 жыл бұрын

The second guy is albert ok, he has great videos, you might enjoy them.

@GAOMaster 3 жыл бұрын

@@vojta98 no

@Kreutz 4 жыл бұрын

I want to see Magnus Midtbø do this!!!!

@kylenakamura4353 4 жыл бұрын

I bet he can pull 100% bodyweight!

@hijim3874 4 жыл бұрын

he actually has his own product that does something similar www.kickstarter.com/projects/tindeq/progressor-and-v-rings

@MCVP162 4 жыл бұрын

I think they do something similar to this on lattice training. If i remember correctly he got around 110%. Other climbers like Alex Megos have gotten around 130% and Adam ondra around 115% (latticetraining.com/2017/09/07/9c-adam-ondra-alex-megos/)

@jonashagen8077 4 жыл бұрын

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ot56gqmg2bDPY6s.html

@DerRollkragen 4 жыл бұрын

He did 109 kg ...

@acsherman 4 жыл бұрын

Is that camera man your dad? Getting some dad uniform vibes from the mirror shots.

@TuvofLuv 4 жыл бұрын

Grateful for this. Always a good way to compare. A chart at the end with comparison would have been nice too.

@cairo652 4 жыл бұрын

Aah, Geek Climber AND Albert Ok?! Can’t get enough of climbing content recently, and y’all are both big favorites of mine. Crushing it with the content, and grip strength! Thanks for the hours of entertainment

@111jkjk 4 жыл бұрын

"your left hand is dumb so it's stronger" 🤣😆🤣😆

@THRCGreatLakes 4 жыл бұрын

I do a lot of similar crane scale testing. When I work with athletes or test myself we always use a bench because the squatting becomes uncomfortable and we can standardize the arm angle a bit more by raising or lowering it. Awesome to see more people getting into the assessments

@powersergio 4 жыл бұрын

what size did you have me try this? :o Kinda curious how I stack compared to people

@THRCGreatLakes 4 жыл бұрын

Sergio Falcon ~12mm

@THRCGreatLakes 4 жыл бұрын

Sergio Falcon their testing protocol is weird because of the half crouch tho

@residentevil9894 4 жыл бұрын

My arthritis just activated from watching this

@n7titan243 4 жыл бұрын

have you done any testing since this video? I recently got myself a portable with the same edge sizes and i'm quite pleased that my quarantine hangboarding seems to be paying off, keep up the great work!

@tillteufel9979 3 жыл бұрын

thx for the video. would have been cool to see an overviewing table in the end with the results ;)

@visionary6953 4 жыл бұрын

I love your learning videos.Please learn Human Flag.This is so hard calisthenic trick but awesome

@donriempp7251 4 жыл бұрын

how is the front lever going?

@devonrd 4 жыл бұрын

Very interesting video! Next time it would be nice if you could graph the % of bodyweight on each hold so you can actually compare. Now it's numbers back to back and hard to see the differences clearly.

@aikawa1985 4 жыл бұрын

everyone is injured but can still pull hard lol

@docwalk 2 жыл бұрын

I see the Port-A-Board in your other videos. Curious, how did you end up deciding on Port-A-Board vs other portable trainers? ie. Tension block, V-Mobs, etc

@Aceland1 3 жыл бұрын

WHAAAT that girl is insanely strong!

@hansstephani5869 4 жыл бұрын

Exactly 100.000 Subs atm. Don't see that everyday :))

@keithwilliams3855 4 жыл бұрын

what are the three pinch widths of the port-a-board? great video as always

@frictitiousclimbing4991 4 жыл бұрын

Hi Keith, 120mm, 135mm and 70mm!

@hellwroughtangel 4 жыл бұрын

So cool!

@fr3d80000 4 жыл бұрын

Should try this with a toptope and belayer, then 'lower' until the climbers grip fails. That way arm position is optimized and you know its max effort!

@arockuncovered5782 4 жыл бұрын

fun- interesting info- good video

@rasmushielscher9630 4 жыл бұрын

Bring magnus on :) great video btw

@jonkrause6714 4 жыл бұрын

Great video editing and makes so much sense now of qualitative tendon strength. Delaney is Superwoman strong (Pro level is unbelievable). 😲💪

@GeekClimber 4 жыл бұрын

She is definitely Superwoman strong. Don't even need to calculate the percentages. She is lighter than me yet she is pulling higher numbers than me. Crazy! Also, thank you, Jon, for the amazing camera work!

@jonkrause6714 4 жыл бұрын

Geek Climber My pleasure to support your channel anyway I can and glad camera work was to your satisfaction. 🙇‍♂️ So fun to experience everything in person and also learn so much. Look forward to your future videos that surely will show your continued improvements as a result of this.🤘

@adityagunawan9223 4 жыл бұрын

Omg the girl is super strong

@youngman7655 4 жыл бұрын

Can you make a video learning your first backflip.

@wolololer 3 жыл бұрын

that theory about the right and left hadn is completly true to me my left arm is bigger and more brute force than right arm, but my right arm last longer and is way more precise

@munchimunch4187 4 жыл бұрын

I’m guessing people line Magnus midtbo is really rare, he seems to be able to do this sort of thing with 100% of body weight, idk

@patrickfitzgerald6073 4 жыл бұрын

Yeah I think there's a video of him somewhere hanging with one arm on a campus board. and with weight too at some point. I think lattice test does something like this maybe?

@munchimunch4187 4 жыл бұрын

Patrick Fitzgerald yea man, that’s crazy how someone like him exists

@Giaroscope 4 жыл бұрын

Would have liked at least one more man and woman to have a wider scope, otherwise great video. I'm amazed how strong you all are and that the professionals had similar strength levels

@99999george 4 жыл бұрын

Forgive me if I'm being ignorant as I've never used one of these but if I were to hang off a fingerboard of the same depth with one hand would that be equivalent to 100% of my weight on this device? I'm not a climber but my school has a climbing wall and I've used the fingerboard there a couple times and done what I described.

@joehodson1666 4 жыл бұрын

Yeah if you can pull yourself up from the floor with one hand on 20mm edge that would be 100% of your bodyweight

@Benkkuful 4 жыл бұрын

It's a bit harder because the tool is not screwed to a wall, but pretty much yeah.

@REDandBLUEandORANGE 4 жыл бұрын

When are you going to put out the one arm pull-up video?

@GeekClimber 4 жыл бұрын

Working on it now!

@famine7514 4 жыл бұрын

The way they did it is much easier, try their technique and you will be impressed :)

@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog 4 жыл бұрын

Don’t you have to factor in handsize since the climber with smaller more narrow hands can get more finger on the hold?

@hamzoot2801 4 жыл бұрын

I can do around 145lbs after 1 year of climbing but weigh close to 200lbs

@AaronTheGhost1 4 жыл бұрын

What kind of scale did he useV

@cessactdm 4 жыл бұрын

my left ear enjoyed this

@GeekClimber 4 жыл бұрын

Damm, thanks for pointing it out. I double-checked and I realized I had made a few mistakes when mixing audio for some segments. Normally I don't have to do this but the audio was so bad this time that I had to do a lot of clean-up. People were running on treadmills in a small room, causing a lot of echos but I couldn't tell them to stop.

@ja1212az 4 жыл бұрын

Very interesting, all are very strong, good work

@andrewmitchell5807 4 жыл бұрын

To be expected that men have a larger disparity in strength between sides compared to the women.

@zk9043 4 жыл бұрын

she ways hella less lol

@andrewmitchell5807 4 жыл бұрын

@@zk9043 weight doesnt mean much when you want to know whether one side is stronger than the other

@zk9043 4 жыл бұрын

@@andrewmitchell5807 my bad I read your comment wrong

@julianhust4970 4 жыл бұрын

Ah I see what you did there

@nate6889 4 жыл бұрын

@@zk9043 *Weighs, dumbass.

@mihuuuu 4 жыл бұрын

im confused isnt that more of a test of your pulling strength with your lats? you're just using the fingers as point of contact, not the primary movement

@StefekGoingOn 4 жыл бұрын

I think the idea is that your fingers are going to be the weakest link. It's not about moving the weight, it's about pulling until your fingers are just on the brink of opening and losing your grip. If they had a closed hand grip on a ring or something they could pull substantially more weight.

@wowandrss 4 жыл бұрын

like when you hang, sure you can engage your lats but what is the first thing that will get tired and make you let go? Your fingers. Someone with a huge back, high deadlift etc.. will not be able to hold on like a climber because of the difference in finger strength.

@rmbraun 4 жыл бұрын

on the 20 mm edge i'm not sure she could go above ~80% because of hers quatted position under the scale. i think she could have held more weight!

@DaddyLeonEdwards 4 жыл бұрын

This is a bit random but what is the name of the bumps on my big toes from climbing shoes and how do I get rid of them

@MCVP162 4 жыл бұрын

ive heard people call them foot corns before. just means your shoes too small and is rubbing against your foot. I had them with my solutions, but they went away when i got dragos that fit a bit better.

@DaddyLeonEdwards 4 жыл бұрын

McVp ok thanks

@Benkkuful 4 жыл бұрын

They're usually called foot corns, but it's a callus. Just like the ones you have on your hands from climbing. They're not necessarily a bad thing. Your body forms calluses to protect the skin. If it feels painful then it's probably infected and you might want to see a doctor. If everything is fine, it's not infected, u can treat it just like any other callus and sandpaper it down or use a callus shaver.

@DaddyLeonEdwards 4 жыл бұрын

Jami thanks man I might try and sand them

@Matt-yu5ed 2 жыл бұрын

Should take hand size into account too.

@onezerotwofour184 4 жыл бұрын

Good video. This is just broscience conjecture but I suspect that the strength of human connective tissue does not scale with bodyweight in a linear fashion. That is to say that lighter people should always have a significant advantage when taking part in % of bodyweight based tests. I've never researched it though.

@GeekClimber 4 жыл бұрын

Someone should tell Magnus to try this!

@TheAntoniomol02 4 жыл бұрын

He tried spmething similar he had to add weight to his own bodyweight

@TheValinov 4 жыл бұрын

if those guys would fix their feet, the could pull a lot more i think. if you are able to do a one-arm pull up on this thing you will always outclass the guys who can't because of mechanics.

@TheValinov 4 жыл бұрын

@@GeekClimber you could do a small study friend. do now 10 times this test - summerize the average and do it again in summer or next month and compare the results :)

@alexgalays910 4 жыл бұрын

It seems 100% true. How else can we explain how heavy (but fit) climbers get waaaaaay more pulley injuries?

@camdenburke3039 3 жыл бұрын

you should do this with magnus

@wolfgangi 4 жыл бұрын

OK I know nothing about climbing, but shouldn't looking at the absolute strength the same thing if they are trying to compare who has the most grip strength? Why do they normalize it by the body weight?

@meehai_ 4 жыл бұрын

A summary table woudl've been good at end for comparison :)

@GeekClimber 4 жыл бұрын

You are totally right. Thanks a ton for the suggestion!

@donovandownes5064 3 жыл бұрын

I am honestly very disappointed that the hangboard is sold out :(

@bboyHarrypotter 4 жыл бұрын

yooo albert is an awesome guy with a great youtube channel

@GeekClimber 4 жыл бұрын

I totally agree, man! His channel is awesome.

@AlbertOkay 4 жыл бұрын

@judaspriest33715 4 жыл бұрын

cliffs of id!

@ianbroadbooks1429 4 жыл бұрын

Ryan Mosely ya i started the video and was like wait that’s my gym

@PhatRobsOils 4 жыл бұрын

You been rock climbing for a Decade, and still consider yourself a amateur?

@h_r_99 4 жыл бұрын

what's with the audio in this video?? or is it just me??

@GeekClimber 4 жыл бұрын

My bad for the audio. It was super difficult to clean up the audio. People were running on treadmills in a small room, causing a lot of echos. I had to drive 2 hours to a gym that I had never been to in order to catch Delaney on a break before the Pan American Championships started in the early afternoon to make this video. It was quite hectic that day. For the next videos, I promise the audio will be better.

@micropela3039 4 жыл бұрын

5:00 what theory did he mention ? That’s interesting

@syedabishosainrizvi7817 4 жыл бұрын

Seems unlikely given my own body, but they are pros, so.... Won't argue

@Blubydaylight 4 жыл бұрын

His microphone was made in China

@Mustov1000 4 жыл бұрын

Yeah Like 99% of all Microphones

@Devastator21 4 жыл бұрын

And like 99% of clothes and everything

@Blubydaylight 4 жыл бұрын

And 99% of Asians as well

@Outlabyrinth 3 жыл бұрын

What is this scale to measure!????

@Arithmophobia 10 ай бұрын

crane scale

@Outlabyrinth 10 ай бұрын

@@Arithmophobia thanks meanwhile I got a Tindeq ;) but appreciate the help ;)

@f.schettino1779 4 жыл бұрын

Broooo 100k

@thelandyouseek 4 жыл бұрын

Yo geeeeeek

@DIYToPen 4 жыл бұрын

You could have used a tindeq progressor instead of a crane scale

@AnIdiot_or_simply_AI 4 жыл бұрын

2:15 look at the left. LMAOOOO

@diegoserrano3674 3 жыл бұрын

Then again she does have smaller fingers and its easier to grab smaller things, either way she still did pretty good

@blackwolf3590 2 жыл бұрын

that is not just finger strength...your arm and lats also

@kristenz2483 4 жыл бұрын

I guess the key is to weigh less

@gustopher6500 4 жыл бұрын

Just don't develop an eating disorder

@alexgalays910 4 жыл бұрын

It actually helps a lot :(

@TobyClimbs 4 жыл бұрын

I know a guy who can do 140% on a 20mm

@SuperSaiyanPhysique 4 жыл бұрын

Sick, what's his bouldering level roughly?

@user-ih3jl9um6e 4 жыл бұрын

I can do 90% on a 21 mm edge but I am not nearly as good es her, so finger strength isn't the only thing to consider

@timonix2 4 жыл бұрын

@@user-ih3jl9um6e Sure helps though

@jackbauer2698 3 жыл бұрын

I dunno 0:10 it looks like she actually used her weight more then the finger strength lol.

@Arithmophobia 10 ай бұрын

are you dumb

@diegoserrano3674 3 жыл бұрын

She is smaller and more than likely has smaller hands and it makes it easier for her to grab smaller things, either way what she did was pretty impressive

@91722854 4 жыл бұрын

for people whose fingers can pull more than 1.01 times their body weight, this would not be a viable test

@jauume 3 жыл бұрын

Get a weighted vest maybe

@francescdomenech3835 4 жыл бұрын

You are pulling with your back, not with your fingers..

@Jsoccer1999 4 жыл бұрын

Love the excuses. Also she should’ve been able to use her off hand on the wrist because her bent arm strength might be limiting her ability as her fingers could maybe handle more

@gorskiewycieczki 4 жыл бұрын

She did 10mm not 20 in first attempt 🙃

@homesboy13579 4 жыл бұрын

I don't think so because when she did 10mm on the next attempt her numbers were a good amount lower

@gorskiewycieczki 4 жыл бұрын

@@homesboy13579 Watched again and it seems so.

@jawoable 4 жыл бұрын

no only pound ok

@shaikqamar2180 4 жыл бұрын

the first dude never lifted any of his legs whereas other two.... were just hanging like hell on it :/

@kevtj7145 4 жыл бұрын

isn't that the point of it? It's testing the finger's strength not the pulling strength

@user-dg8zj8hu1h 4 жыл бұрын

you should do this with a male pro climber, often women got hard time with this, i've seen climber do 2 finger pull up on a phalanx

@webbryan1 4 жыл бұрын

Alex Honnold won

@Aashishkebab Жыл бұрын

The way you did this is flawed. I'm sure she could hang her entire bodyweight from the 20mm, but it's too low.

@lhitman2222 4 жыл бұрын

She's literally throwing all her wight on it.

@robetodragao 4 жыл бұрын

🇧🇷🇧🇷

@GeekClimber 4 жыл бұрын

👍

@KshitijKale 3 жыл бұрын

Nerds

@Jsoccer1999 4 жыл бұрын

If anyone here wants to see the strongest fingers ever look up yves gravelle on Instagram

@jawoable 4 жыл бұрын

plesae put in kilogramm!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

@hydra66 4 жыл бұрын

3:56 Does geek climber not have a survival instinct? Never ask a lady that

@TheValinov 4 жыл бұрын

welcome to the climbing community =)

@Popcornio 4 жыл бұрын

How are you going to calculate % body weight without knowing someone's weight?

@balladin9200 4 жыл бұрын

They’re using so much body weight, you aren’t measuring your finger strength bad video.

@TeaRex 4 жыл бұрын

What is holding up the body-weight do you think...?

@balladin9200 4 жыл бұрын

Tea Rex thats still not finger strength its finger durability, nice.

@TeaRex 4 жыл бұрын

@@balladin9200 and what units is finger durability measured in? the force the fingers are generating is same whether its holding the climbers mass against gravity or lifting a weight up against gravity. whats the difference between finger durability and strength?

@balladin9200 4 жыл бұрын

Tea Rex Not much i guess.

@balladin9200 4 жыл бұрын

Tea Rex I just remembered they were measuring the pounds of their body weight so the question in this case is if the fingers can hold out long enough. Yes or no. There is not much difference between strength and durability but that doesn’t matter in this case.

@panimbryk 4 жыл бұрын

Body mass is not actually that relevant in this experiment because it is about finger strength

@alexgalays910 4 жыл бұрын

It's extremely relevant. How much % of your body weight you can pull has a tremendous impact on climbing performance. This isn't weight lifting where the body weight of the person doesn't matter.

@wowandrss 4 жыл бұрын

When you're climbing, you don't think it's harder to push/pull 100lbs or 200lbs? It's all relative. If you're stronger, you can move easier/more efficiently and hold on longer. Which is what the sport is about.