Trying a New Innovative Hangboard Training Method for 30 Days - ft. C4HP
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3 жыл бұрынI tried out a new finger training method called “one- arm max-pull isometrics”. Be sure to check it out!
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@frictitiousclimbing4991 3 жыл бұрын
Nailed it! I've been using recruitment pulls alongside regular gym climbing like you mentioned and it's been working great. It's so much more simple than weighted hangs that I might never go back! The key truly is to try hard so you're hitting your max for any given day you complete the training and the results will follow!
@robr7200 3 жыл бұрын
Identify a need/problem and come up with a solution, how to start a business 101. Well done, I have been looking for something exactly like this. I will be buying one.
@frictitiousclimbing4991 3 жыл бұрын
@@robr7200 Thank you! Check out the new design on our website! Took us a long time to come up with it, but it's super simple and super easy to put up and take down!
@kevtron82 Жыл бұрын
@@frictitiousclimbing4991 Does the little docking frame seen in the video above still come with it? I don't see it listed on the site.
@34311Y 3 жыл бұрын
This man seriously loves his slides, just look at the tan on his feet.
@hyau23 3 жыл бұрын
Tyler Nelson is the man, people should listen to him on training beta podcast and also read the article he wrote up. Great for maintaining finger strength and also improving if you don't have weights or anywhere to hang the fingerboard
@saiyanveg 3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for being the guinea pig and taking time to share. These types of videos are very insightful indeed for average joe climbers like myself.
@climberdad 3 жыл бұрын
Love the training technique. Thanks for bringing light to it. I'm going to start doing it myself.
@jonkrause6714 3 жыл бұрын
Always finding innovative and creative strength gains. Will try it out tomorrow when working on home cave wall. 🙏👍
@jonkrause6714 6 ай бұрын
Interesting seeing this again after 10 days into single hand finger training - pulling up from feet vs hangboard. Liking the habit and Tindeq dynamometer with Frictitious port-a-board. Thank you as always for being a visionary of these tools for climbing self-improvement. 🙇🏻♂️
@FearlessTofu 3 жыл бұрын
You are right, hangboarding is pretty boring...my discipline fails after a week and I’m back on the couch. Now I’m motivated to give this method a try! Gotta get ready for my outdoor bouldering trip in 30 days!
@caseycronan9217 3 жыл бұрын
Woah great work!
@theclimate-positive-moveme2720 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing...I will try this on my selfmade hangboard !
@ahdnoh 3 жыл бұрын
I have always done this as a means to warm up. Good to know it has actual functional benefits. My problem is staying consistent with training and not skipping out on legs.
@TesterAnimal1 3 жыл бұрын
Legs??? What are they for?
@BeGravity4 3 жыл бұрын
Great video - useful info
@asolondev 3 жыл бұрын
This sounds awesome, I'm gonna try it
@CYI3ERPUNK 3 жыл бұрын
great video, gonna put some of this to use =] ; thank you
@ziggen78 3 жыл бұрын
Thank youu🤗🔝🔝💪💪✌✌
@Ericliaoo 3 жыл бұрын
If you keep this up, you'll be able to do one arm finger pull ups 💪
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
I never attempted it before but I am tempted to try it out and see how far away I am from it!
@Ericliaoo 3 жыл бұрын
@@GeekClimber Good luck!
@taggerung_ 2 жыл бұрын
@@GeekClimber now that you can do one arm pull ups this seems more doable than ever 😯
@afailable 3 жыл бұрын
Very useful
@chinescookie5642 3 жыл бұрын
Niceeeeeee get that power bro!
@hangugeohaksaeng 3 жыл бұрын
I really feel bad for you that your gym didn't reopen when you thought it did. Your report of your expectations in the very beginning of the video was sad. Thanks for another great video.
@courtclimbs 3 жыл бұрын
I think this is a really great idea, especially for beginners that have a hard time hanging on a hang board in general. I know when I started it felt almost impossible. I'm hoping to put up some hang board videos on my channel and will definetley look into using this method! 💛
@christopherribar1504 3 жыл бұрын
sweet sandals tan lines!
@LoveAndClimbing 3 жыл бұрын
A few notes: 1. The "you have to try hard" bit is really, really important--you need to be putting out maximum effort on every pull--and it can be hard to know if you're putting out maximum on every pull. For this reason I'd prefer to take off weight with a pulley system, or pull on the force meter every time. There are still reasons this might be the right workout for you: it requires minimal equipment and preparation. A workout you actually do is better than a more efficient workout you never do. 2. "The first try is always the best" isn't necessarily true for everyone. I typically do three pulls to test max strength, and usually the second pull is actually my strongest. As you get stronger this becomes more likely because your first pull acts as a warmup--when you're stronger, things like pull-ups are no longer an adequate finger warmup because they're not hard enough on your finger muscles: the only adequate warmup for pulling hard is pulling hard.
@dab88 2 жыл бұрын
5:10 when you engage the pull your shoulder shoots up toward your ear. Not a great sign and you would do well to work on shoulder blade retraction even when doing your one arm max pull isometrics
@stevencrudgington374 3 жыл бұрын
Great Video. Thanks. I had no idea about this training method. It will be a great method to train your half-crimp. Bend your first digit 90 degrees and see what you can pull. My guess is its a weakness your body is avoiding. You currently do open 4 grip on your "half crimp" this is a cool grip but you need to be able to do half crimp too, so you have all options open when solving a problem. Check Emil Abrahamsson latest top 5 tips video and his demonstration about how holding a hold differently can affect the movement styles you can do on it. Keep the awesome content coming. Thanks.
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
You are right and thanks for pointing out my mistake. I appreciate it! I will definitely check out Emil's video.
@millacabral9475 3 жыл бұрын
I can't help but see a little kid trying to look tall and capable when Geek does this at 1:41 haha It's so cute. It gives me "Hey dad, look! I can do it too!" vibes.
@DekarNL 3 жыл бұрын
First 2 weeks Half crimp recruitment pulls 5 reps of 3 to 4 seconds 1 minute rest between reps Second 2 weeks 3 finger drags instead
@gregorydesprez7520 3 жыл бұрын
I think it's both exercice the whole month
@harmonicanisation1956 3 жыл бұрын
Idk if you know about entralpi ? It's an amazing tool devellop by one of the climber in my gym. It's a scale connect with your phone with an app who's tracking your finger strength progress and also give you strength program base on your current strength. So you know the force you apply in real time and the force you should target to apply during a specific period of time base on your current strenght and what you want to improve (strength, aeorobic, etc). Their also all kind of program like warm up, endurance, max strength, power endurance... and you can create your own program for what you want to improve. It work with all hangboard and all types of grip you want to improve. It's such an innovative technology in the climbing world and pro are starting using it. With your visibility, i'm sure the creator will be up for a collab with you.
@dmoneywise 3 жыл бұрын
emil uploaded a video with a similar idea for training and also said it worked well for him
@Outlabyrinth 3 жыл бұрын
Sweet méthode !!! where did you get the measurements device ?
@YogaHealingjourney 3 жыл бұрын
I love it, I want to Learn climbing
@nyx4698 3 жыл бұрын
great vid and great tan 2:16
@michaellim4125 3 жыл бұрын
i was in san diego back in september and its so sad i couldnt climb any gyms thre!
@Vinnehfied 3 жыл бұрын
For the half crimp recruitment pulls, in order for it to be a 'half crimp' the index should ideally be flexed at a 90 degree angle, consistent with your other fingers. I noticed they were particularly straight when you were explaining about the half crimp protocol.
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
You are right, it wasn't flexed at a 90-degree angle on some of them. Thanks for pointing it out and I will make sure to not make the same mistake in the future.
@Vinnehfied 3 жыл бұрын
@@GeekClimber No worries! I’ve done the same mistake for a number of years too!
@TesterAnimal1 3 жыл бұрын
Also, what is that hold setup that you hang off that scale?
@06kickflip 2 жыл бұрын
Nice video, where did you get the back board which omhangs on your door?
@hangugeohaksaeng 3 жыл бұрын
Is the 20mm measured from the back of the pocket to the start of the round-over, or to the face of the hang-board?
@fredericp64 3 жыл бұрын
Say 20 millimeter really fast 3 times ;) ! Love your vids! Always a like before viewing!
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
Haha, appreciate the support!
@mrblev2048 3 жыл бұрын
i enjoy
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
Great to know!
@flip_lange 3 жыл бұрын
nice (re)gains! I hae used Tyler's finger strength protocol multiple times in the past and it worked for me, especially the first time I did it. One thing I noticed: your half-crimp doesnt look like a half-crimp on the video. It looks like you're dragging your index finger. this might be something to watch out for.
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for pointing out the problem of my index finger on the half crimp! I will make sure to not make the same mistake in the future.
@nofurtuna 3 жыл бұрын
For muscle balance one arm pull-up , it's going to be hard for a rookie. Exercise in sports workout or calisthenics
@justintan2051 3 жыл бұрын
hey! where do u get those force measuring things? looks like a good way to accurately measure the force u can pull
@Gullshunter 3 жыл бұрын
you should look up ''entralpi'' much more precise and interacting
@keithwilliams3855 3 жыл бұрын
Im curious. how come you don't use the klau portable 150kg heavy duty crane scale as we would never need a larger scale?
@alexgriggs7260 3 жыл бұрын
Is that mesa gym in San Diego?
@matthewstephens8436 3 жыл бұрын
Subscriber's: can you do the L-sit Geek climber: HANG BOARD 😁
@qwertyuiop-cu2ve 3 жыл бұрын
So since you mention multiple reps, is this a repeater protocol? Rest should be smaller though, like 3 seconds or so.
@mylestaylor290 3 жыл бұрын
I’m curious how much of the progress comes from pure finger gains versus pulling strength from more macro muscles (eg back, shoulders, biceps). I have no doubt there’s real strength gains made in the fingers, but is that solely where the progress came from? Huge fan and love watching your vids!
@Cachi287 3 жыл бұрын
Maybe you should train it and see if your back gets stronger
@FiveAcreFarm 3 жыл бұрын
This exercise would benefit from using a supplemental bar for nutrition and flavor!
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
😆😆👍
@jadsoueidi9068 4 ай бұрын
Do u happen to know any product that serves the same purpose but hangs higher than the door frame . With the same set up without wholes . So I can hang without having to curl my legs ?
@curvenut 3 жыл бұрын
@geek climber, where did you buy the black structure where you hang on it at 2:55 ? what is the brand ? Thanks , BTW , awesome video !
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
I bought it on Amazon here: amzn.to/2V5PoUc. It's called the KT Freestanding pull up bar.
@zivalavivaa 3 жыл бұрын
Great video! I don't thing i got the reps thing. Do you hang 5 times for each hand for 3-4 secs and then rest for a minute, or is it a one hang and then rest? Thank you!
@derekxiaoEvanescentBliss 3 жыл бұрын
Hang rest hang rest, etc. Hang = 3-4s recruitment pull
@federicoyouknow 3 жыл бұрын
Shouts out SD climbers! We've been having fun over at Grotto.... feel free to join me Geek Climber!
@sexyaznboy70 3 жыл бұрын
A small note to anyone whos looking into doing weighted hangs on hangboard systems that rely on the door trim. Do not depend on the door trim to hold more then 250 pounds (max). Most door trims are held by brad nails which arent that strong. If you plan to do only body weight hangs and training then it should be fine (for most climbers). This also highly depends on how old your building is and how its built. For more seasoned climbers, please build a freestanding hangboard or mount onto a structural member within your building. I say this with a background of construction that you should do this and cause I broke my door trim doing weighted pull-ups/hangs. If you plan to do a hang session w/ 50% of your weight added that can pass the 250 pounds weight limit. (Ex: Im a 155 pnd climber + 75 pnds = 230 pnds.) Also include the forces/stress you might be putting when pulling up and down which might increase the weight loads.
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot for sharing this. This is another reason why the one arm max pull isometrics is great!
@TravisKlein1 Жыл бұрын
Tyty
@flynryan3053 2 жыл бұрын
sweet sandals tan
@ethanstephanis4034 3 жыл бұрын
Nice job regaining your finger strength. How’s the front lever going? I’m currently working on my muscle up I’m almost at 3 reps
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
I am still struggling on the front lever. I think I am closer to getting a one arm pull up.
@flip_lange 3 жыл бұрын
@@GeekClimber that makes a lot of sense ;) because apparently the power needed for a front lever is greater than for a one arm pull-up.
@TesterAnimal1 3 жыл бұрын
What’s that measuring thing you used? I want one! Got a link?
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
It's this one! amzn.to/2TcmuR6
@richarddoan9172 3 жыл бұрын
You could probably measure strength by standing on a scale and seeing how much your weight decreases when you pull.
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
That's a creative idea! I wonder why no one does this haha.
@dudleylama5369 3 жыл бұрын
Plz one arm pull up progression
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
Working on it and I am almost there!
@christopherribar1504 3 жыл бұрын
your videos always make me realize that i'm not training hard enough haha
@Schyluer 3 жыл бұрын
Anybody catch how many sets? Is it just one??
@joolind3 3 жыл бұрын
Are you still doing the front lever
@Jowstjah 3 жыл бұрын
The voicecrack is real 2:33
@ListinTheGuitar 3 жыл бұрын
Hey Geek Climber, so is the routine 5 reps of half crimps for 3-4sec with one minute break? When do I do 3 Finger drag and how often would you recommend doing this routine in a week? I go bouldering 4 times a week and climb around V4-V5
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
Yea 5 reps of half crimp and then 5 reps of 3 finger drag. Believe it or not, Dr. Nelson actually told me the best timing to train this is 6 hours after a climbing session for optimal gains! So climb in the morning and train the one arm max pull isometrics during the evenings. For me, I can’t climb in the mornings so I can’t execute this plan. I train this on my non climbing days instead and it still seemed to work pretty well for me.
@ListinTheGuitar 3 жыл бұрын
@@GeekClimber thank you! You are a legend
@DekarNL 3 жыл бұрын
Just bought one of these 1h hangboards. Going to try this workout. Probably I will start with 3x per week. Do you recommend to do them before a climbing session, or on my rest days?
@MrApetape 3 жыл бұрын
Just be aware of your diminishing finger strength for your climbing session and therefor the risk of injury. Not every Climbing session is about performing, if you did a fingerboardsession before, use the session as a training and dont go max on your projects. Rest days are what they are: REST days. You could do an easy regenerationsession with only 70-80% of your bodyweight on rest days, but dont go hard. Could use a pulleysystem or a mechanical scale for less bodyweight. I hope you enjoy this advice, even when its not geek climber who commented ;)
@DekarNL 3 жыл бұрын
@@MrApetape maybe I'll do them twice per week for starters. Leaves some room for projecting too. Cheers!
@Tomwoodfitness 3 жыл бұрын
What’s the Digital device called you use to measure finger strength???
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
It's a crane scale I bought on Amazon here: amzn.to/2TcmuR6.
@Tomwoodfitness 3 жыл бұрын
@@GeekClimber thanks man, much appreciated!
@caspianYT 3 жыл бұрын
How's the front lever progress going?
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
Still struggling unfortunately. I am training really hard for it though.
@caspianYT 3 жыл бұрын
@@GeekClimber i'm rooting for you! You can do it!
@rogshotz 3 жыл бұрын
Geek you live in SD???? I definitely saw you at another Gym haha. Its a small small world.
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
Yea I live in SD now. Feel free to come and say hi to me next time you see me.
@henrynewton8265 3 жыл бұрын
uhh... so I only have 10mm holds atm. Do you think it would work? Should I change the menu a bit or would your training menu be fine for me as well? Love from Japan!
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
I am pretty sure the training method will work with 10mm holds too!
@henrynewton8265 3 жыл бұрын
@@GeekClimber thanks! Ill follow your method loosely and see how it goes. Good luck with your training/challenges, they are my favorite videos (´･ω･｀)ｂ.
@jeronimob8333 3 жыл бұрын
If you're a beginner and you can't hang a 20mm edge, you can still pull with your feet on the ground with both arms (shocker!). Also you say hangboarding can get boring (which I completely agree with) and then you proceed to do a one arm hangboarding protocol that literally takes twice as much time to complete than the two arm counterpart. Soo what up with that?
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
That's actually a great point... I wonder why no one does it. I don't know the answer so let me reach out to the experts to try to get an answer for you.
@thisscreensucks 3 жыл бұрын
I've only just into climbing. So I'm not ready to invest in boards. I'd love to support you though. Maybe once I get more advanced you'll still have similar promotions.
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
Definitely only buy the product if it's going to be useful to you. Thanks a lot for the support!
@notvee611 3 жыл бұрын
front lever video when? :(
@trashdumpcol6729 3 жыл бұрын
you buyinglink for the frictious door thingy is broken.
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for letting me know! I just updated the link.
@trashdumpcol6729 3 жыл бұрын
@@GeekClimber just realized it sounded kind of grumpy. Not intended. Thanks for the great video! :)
@topofword Жыл бұрын
想請問 可以每天做嗎 會不會傷手指 目前大概爬台灣v3
@GeekClimber Жыл бұрын
一個星期做兩次就很足夠了
@nmca6053 Жыл бұрын
What if you come off the ground?
@Frodoswaggns Жыл бұрын
Then you made it, no need to hangboard
@Cosmicgardening 3 жыл бұрын
Genuinely curious why 30 days was your choice? I would think 6-8 weeks would be a lot more insightful though I know that's a long time to commit to something. I am curious if Tyler thinks a month is reasonable to see strength gains
@linearmemories 3 жыл бұрын
You literally just saw gains in 30 days, so clearly it is reasonable. He likely chose 30 days because it's a quick time frame for making a video, and 30 days is a relatable amount of time for a viewer. It's more of a "challenge" video than it is an actual training program.
@Cosmicgardening 3 жыл бұрын
@linear memories ...right...guy who hasn't hangboarded in months sees minimal gains hangboarding some over the course of a month...very insightful? Like, he should have seen gains a couple of sessions since he hasn't been training.
@Yucazen 3 жыл бұрын
Hello, this comment comes completely from my experience, but watching your calisthenics videos, I think that in that discipline you are very strong, but you are leaving finger training aside a bit, because for people I know that climbs in your level they can hang on 10-millimeter edge with relative comfort, but are nowhere near lifting 75% of their weight in a pull-up. That said, I think that as a climber, your bottleneck is definitely your finger strength, and your pulling force is above your level. Greetings and good video!
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
I totally agree to your assessment and that’s why I have been training on the MoonBoard pretty hard lately!
@Yucazen 3 жыл бұрын
@@GeekClimber Hope to see you crushing those V7!
@stuffbenlikes 3 жыл бұрын
Too bad you don't have a measure from before the pandemic, it would be really interesting to know to put this all in context.
@krameri5 3 жыл бұрын
You should mention isometrics stress the body a lot. Everyone should rest a lot (more days) after these trainings.
@appefjant1961 3 жыл бұрын
what happened to the fitnessexpo u promised(the hang for 100 sec, get 100 bucks event)
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
Unfortunately the fitexpo got cancelled this year because of the pandemic ☹️.
@adonygrapes 3 жыл бұрын
Hi person
@hunterbarrett8203 3 жыл бұрын
hi hello
@incognitobtd6187 3 жыл бұрын
5 minutes ago :O
@herbert5727 3 жыл бұрын
I am sorry, I don’t get all these fancy methods. If you cannot hang a 20mm edge, then why not hang a larger edge and progressively decrease the size?
@marco_dl 3 жыл бұрын
This is mainly for injury prevention and correcting imbalances
@TheClimbingStorm 3 жыл бұрын
injury prevention and if you've only just started climbing then you wont need all that finger strength from the get go, begginer climbing routes and holds tend to be bigger, using the whole hand or the magority of your fingers, you'll only need to deal with a smaller edges at a higher tier, by the time you're getting to the types of routes that require small edges like this you will of built up suffecient strength in your fingers to start on a 20mm edge :)
@Cacovangor 3 жыл бұрын
You reduce training forearm flexor muscles as the edge size increases, especially edges larger than a full pad which tends to be ~25mm. This subpad sized edge and the rounding of the edge minimizes contact with the joint which reduces likelihood of splits and assistance from friction. You of course could, and could always use a pulley to assist or do a similar exercise with two arms, but this reduces equipment needs. For myself, one armed hangs are essential as I would need too much weight to be comfortable.
@boetzivongedons4652 3 жыл бұрын
I don't even have a hangboard
@WyandWombat 3 жыл бұрын
Have you measured your combined finger strength hanging off both arms for comparison? I feel like it would come out to be more than just the sum of both single arms. My max hang for 7 seconds on two arms is around 90kg (61kg of which is body weight) and I am pretty sure that I'm weaker than you.
@patrickdaubner7956 3 жыл бұрын
Sorry but that was not a Half Crimp on Day 10 it was a 4 fingers Open Grip.
@nameerhirschkind9764 3 жыл бұрын
Second :)
@alvaroperalta4593 3 жыл бұрын
When u use more your hands to talk than to climb
@retrosynthdid4476 3 жыл бұрын
Learn back flip
@alexantone5532 3 жыл бұрын
Why?
@fufumccuddlypoops5502 3 жыл бұрын
@@alexantone5532 for fun?
@GeekClimber 3 жыл бұрын
Let me focus on the front lever and one arm pull up first haha.
@alanhan2668 3 жыл бұрын
First :D
@metriotescomment5269 3 жыл бұрын
Love your videos, but I get hypnotized pretty easily by your arms/hands continuously moving forward and backwards, sometimes even rotating. I mean bro, just relax
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