Thank you 😊

Thanks

Thanks a lot. Greetings to you, too.

Hast du das gehört, dass es überhaupt nicht wichtig ist, woher deine Ehefrau ist, das Wichtige ist das dein Auto aus Deutschland ist!?😀

@@mercedeske Haha nein, den Spruch kannte ich noch nicht. Muss ich mir aber merken! ;-)

@@adrianb.8898 Der Hund und das Auto. Und die Ehefrau darf auch vom Lande sein.🤣🤣🤣

@@mercedeske 😂😂👍🏻

It was my pleasure. Best regards

@@mercedeske I think I may have found a problem, I went to test current setup, I don't have time to do more today. But currently there is no voltage between pin 1 and 2, and also taking off connector has no effect on how engine is running. Is this just bad potentiometer or another fault?

@@retrosupplystore3216 It's the potentiometer. How many miles has the car on the clock?

@@mercedeske Its slightly complicated, it should be a 1.8 but has a 2.3 8v engine in it. I am not sure what miles are on this engine. I have replaced loads of bits trying to get it to run smoothly, injectors are quite new, all the cheaper sensors I have tried replacing. It feels and sounds far better now with the 1.9mm sensor plate adjustment, it was far more free play previously, about 4mm

@@retrosupplystore3216 The potentiometer is an issue that has to be replaced after 90k miles. It affects the idle, the engine is likely to stall, it stumbles, loses power. The potentiometer has the task to report the ECU the correct position of the sensor plate so that the ECU could calculate precise amount of air delivery.

Thanks my brother 😉🙂😃👍👏

@@mercedeske ❤💪

How's your R129? Working well?

@@mercedeske lovely ;)

@@wiktorgsxr Glad to hear that.💪🍀Once you monetize your channel I am going to watch the ads on your channel till the end😉😉😉

Forgot to say, after 3500rpm it’s like there is not enough fuel or sth. On a flat street the max speed is 110kmh. On a hill upwards 70kmh Max. The fuel pump Relais and the ovp is also new. Kickdown works. But with no power!!! When I go from the pedal on top speed (110) it shifts in the 4 gear (auto transmission) and it feels that I can come to 120 😝. But not with full throttle. Everything checked like it should. Looked all your videos several times. All values are in the needed range.

Hi and thanks for everything. As for the poti, a guy selling new aftermarket potis says that "the old Mercedes nominal value" doesn't count any more because new potis are made from a different, more advanced material. I have the same situation as you and my car works very well. While being refurbished have the adjustment screws on the fuel distributor been readjusted? As for everything else I would have to see how it looks like so you would have to send me a video of your car to show me the problem. You can do that on my fb page. Greetings, Ivica FyM

@@mercedeske thank you ivica. Will do on the next days😇

Hi, thanks. Concerning the duty cycle you must get the fluctuation about 50%(5% plus minus).

Make sure that you have steady contact where you have been bending. As for the duty cycle it's a rich mixture. You must have a fluctuation around 50%

@@mercedeske Thanks, Its driving so much better than it was but more work needed still. How do I check contact is OK now?

There is not a special method just try to make sure the part has a steady contact.

Hi, thanks for these nice words. I suppose you should check the injectors. If your car has more than 150k miles consider checking the injectors. Maybe they have an issue when the throttle is barely pressed.

It is. It's always.

Hello. No, you don't have to unplug the TPS! Test it right on the car!

@@mercedeske i removed the tps alimentation, and got zero. then i plugged the cable to it back, and found a way to reach the 1st and 2nd connection. and the result was 1.1 V . how bad is that? please not that i checked my tps not plugged and while car is off. and the values were 4.15 kohms and 1.75 kohms.please note, my car is R129 300SL with m103 engine. thank you.

Yes, that's right. You are put of specs for a bit concerning the resistance. Check the resistance while deflecting the sensor plate, the resistance must rise and in the last third of its way it must start decreasing. You can try to calibrate the potentiometer after the check. If you don't succeed, replace it. You are completely out of specs on idle, that's why you can't get steady idle.

@@mercedeske I have purchased 2 new potentiometers. The first one had only 1.72kohms, not 4.2kohms, so I followed your recommendation and purchased one from Germany. It also has 1.72kohms. Surely both cannot be bad?

Don't worry, it's nothing hard. You just have to be patient.😉😃😀

Try to deflect the potentiometer and if there is no bouncing resistance then the potentiometer is fine.

Hi and thanks for your nice words. Check the rubber boot, maybe you have vacuum leaks there. Check the o2 sensor if you have one. Did you clean the ICV? Best regards

Also watch this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oN5oq7qeprLRd58.html

@@mercedeske o2 sensor is replaced but didn’t bother to check the duty cycle, icv is cleaned and working, didn’t check the rubberboot yet. Car has 376000km, maybe I’ll attach a video to be more clear.

@@stefsebi92 Check the rubber boot.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rLV8q7F92JywYGw.html. Sometimes the idle sits at 600rpm and there is no pattern to it. Next week i’ll get the whole ke-jetronic off to check the rubber boot. Thanks for the advice!

Hehehehehe, thanks

El EHA tiene que fluctuar entre -3 y 0 mA cuando el motor está a la temperatura de funcionamiento. ¡Poco a poco y fácil con ese tornillo, es muy sensible!

Muy agradecido maestro mejor escuela la verdad no se puede pedir gracias mil bendiciones.

Well, I think there is no way. May someone correct me if I am wrong but I think that part is not possible to find except you buy a used airflow meter. I am going to do a research on this but I am skeptical about that.

@@mercedeske I sent mail I have a plan but I'm afraid of failure: s

This is not bad but try to raise the voltage at 0.7V, I think 0.6 is a bit low

@@mercedeske I set it to 0.7 volts, but because the brushes are broken (fork, crooked, or near break), the value drops to 0.6 volts after the initial reaction to the throttle position.

@@r3FMusic Look, this part was never an issue because no one has been changing this part and there was no need. My advice to you is to find at the junk yard the whole unit and to try to do a swap. Try to look for by the number on the metal plate of your whole unit.

Jer ima taj video i na srpskom

@@tocicmichael6897 ima. Na engleskom je naziv samo što ne pokazujem proceduru. Ako treba, snimiću na srpskom, nije problem. Što se tiče alosuna, nije ti potreban on on je skup, može bilo koji koji meri procente košta na ibeju 30€. Pozdrav

@@mercedeske hvala u toku dana resicu stelovanje ponti.. Pozdrav

Compre el mismo potenciómetro que en el automóvil, marque la posición donde estaba el anterior, reemplácelo, encienda el automóvil, déjelo calentar solo y luego mueva el potenciómetro hacia arriba para aumentar el voltaje (o hacia abajo disminuya). Mida el voltaje en los pines 1 (negativo) y 2 (positivo). Tienes que conseguir 0,7 V

Many of them told me that. I can't simply believe it how.

@@mercedeske I can send you some photo's of it :). The nr was there but there is no contact. My block is a 102.961, the very first model.

@@michelgroen1982 Send me on my mail.

@@mercedeske done.

Good thing you replaced the potentiometer. Concerning the X11, maybe something can be improvised to make a contact(maybe, I'm not sure).

Buenas tardes, no solo para motor M103, es universal. Saludos desde Serbia.

No toques ese tornillocito porque ahí se está ajustando la fuerza de la señal, lo más seguro es que le arrugues algo que para mejorarlo. ¡Eso es algo que no sé, así que mi consejo para ti es que no toques nada allí!

Si, absolutamente!

Ok muchas gracias maestro

Buenas noches profesor yo tengo mi motor m103 y mi potenciómetro tiene un tornillo pequeño para regular es posible hacerlo con el motor parado cuál es la medida que me tiene que dar el potenciómetro

Le connecteur ou le potentiomètre doit être un peu retiré pour que le multimètre touche les contacts. La voiture doit être à la température de fonctionnement et vous devez obtenir 0,7V. J'espère que vous avez réussi à comprendre le reste de la vidéo.

@@mercedeske oui je note par écrit toute les vidéos comme ça c’est plus pratique pour moi je l’es regarde plusieurs fois pour être sûr merci si j’ai d’autre question 🙋‍♂️ cela ne vous dérange pas au moin ?

D'accord, vous pouvez toujours me trouver ici.😃

@@mercedeske pour expliquer c’es une 2litre 122 XV 90 kw boîte manuel je l’ai récupéré en panne chaîne de distribution simplex et pas en duplex le pignon qui fait tourner l’allumeur n’avait plus aucune dents il ressemblait à un disque ce j’ai commandé un kit chaîne et je l’ai changer moi même en regardant des vidéo d’un gars qui s’appelle milserge sur un forum 190 passion quand j’ai réussi à la mettre en route elle démarrait très très mal 5 a 6 coup de démarreur et surtout pas toucher l’accélérateur sinon elle calait et j’avais aussi témoin abs allumé j’ai changer le relais de surtension et le témoin abs est éteint et elle demare sans problème par contre à froid pas plu de 600 tours minutes j’ai changer la pompe à essence car elle fesait beaucoup de bruit le contrôle t cynique de la voiture de st passer sans problème mais heureusement que je connais la personne qui fait le contrôle car elle pollue beaucoup trop il me reste la carburation à revoir après avoir rouler le lendemain quand j’appuie sur l’assiette du débitmètre je vois que c’est humide dedans et sa sent l’essence et toujours pas de ralenti accéléré quand elle est froide ne monte pas à 1200Tr seulement 600Tr j’ai commander un kit membrane sur site usa et aussi un bon testeur comme toi j’attends d’avoir les pièces pour continuer 😓 je me tâte de commander aussi un régulateur de pression car il a 34 ans tout à 34 ans sauf moi 56 ans je n’ai pas trouver le régulateur de ralenti sur la voiture il y’a rien au pipe d’admission ?? Sur les durite de reniflard j’ai une petite pièce en allu avec une vis de réglage c’est tout ou alors j’ai mal regarder mes sur pipe admission y a rien pour tester avec la pile de 9 volt ? Par contre pourrait tu faire vidéo sur allumage pour comment caler l’allumeur et comment régler l’avance à l’allumage merci à bientôt je te tiens averti pour la suite de mes travaux que je fais moi même

@@mercedeske c’est un système d’aire additionnel KA QUE J’AI

Avvita le viti, niente di troppo duro e poi svita per un quarto di giro e poi sarai in grado di regolare bene la tensione come ho descritto!

@@mercedeske grazie infinite… dopo 4 ore a diventare matto, ci sono riuscito. Abbassavo il potenziometro e il valore arrivava a -1.18.alzavo e arrivava a -2.30..Ho smontato tutto di nuovo, l’ho rimesso sul segno che avevo e ho invertito i fili del multimetro. Incredibile ma vero 0,7 al primo colpooo… yeahhhhh… adesso devo controllare la co per portarla al top… ti posso chiedere una cosa? Ma cos’è quella piccola vite che c’è nel potenziometro? Grazie infinite. Ivan

@@ivanmoretto922 Quella vite è per la sensibilità del segnale dal potenziometro. ti consiglio di non toccarlo! Se hai 0,7 V, dimentica quella vite, la tua macchina funzionerà molto bene.

@@mercedeske buonasera maestro… la mia w 124 ancora non funziona perfettamente… potenziometro nuovo, a 2500 giri a volte ha dei piccoli strattoni… sia a benzina che lpg… minimo perfetto a caldo, ma i primi 5 minuti al mattino il motore trema e come se funziona a 3… poi un gioiello… ho ordinato olio castrol, e un nuovo ovp.. candele… non so più che fare… credo sia davvero eha.. ho un w124 200 e 8v non catalizzata… sembra qualcosa di corrente… sto impazzendo davvero 😧.. grazie infinite 🤩