Your welcome. Let me know if you need to see anything else to help with your home repairs.

No Problem, glad you found it useful

I will do this for you in the next couple of days

I usually just use a piece of wood on my jack and jack it right on the rocker panel behind the litle block thing then put your jack stand on the block thing, it's the only way I could figure out how to do the same thing haha

I cut the old bush out. It was starting to perish anyway. They have a very short life I’m afraid. You can’t just buy the bush from Mini. It’s a complete unit. I bought a 2nd hand engine mount and used that instead of cutting up a new one.

The bushes i used are power flex bushes. Google will provide a local stockist to you

@@tonythowtovideos6691 Thanks for quick reply

Yes. According to BMW TIS. The torque is 100nm for all bolts. 4AZ Holder with rubber mount to oil sump F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 M12 10.9 100 Nm 5AZ Holder with rubber mount to front axle support F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 M12 10.9 100 Nm

Excellent Tony, thank you!! Any chance you have the specs for the upper mount (hydraulic) as well? Just checked mine yesterday and it’s pretty much destroyed.

Of course. Here you go 1AZ Engine mount to cylinder head F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 M10 10.9 Replace screws Jointing torque 40 Nm Angle of rotation 90 ° 2AZ Engine mount to side member F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 M12 10.9 100 Nm 3AZ Engine mounting bracket to cylinder head F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 M10 8.8 41 Nm 4AZ Holder with rubber mount to oil sump F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 M12 10.9 100 Nm 5AZ Holder with rubber mount to front axle support F54 / F55 / F56 / F57 / F60 M12 10.9 100 Nm

The 3 bolts are M12 10.9.

You will feel a vibration under acceleration. Also if you open the bonnet and try to rock the engine if you feel movement the mount needs replacing. They don’t last very long I’m afraid. If you’re getting a clunking sound when going over bumps you may find your top mount needs replacing.

@tonythowtovideos6691 thanks mate,I have replaced top one too as u cud c the oil leaking out of it,the mechanic did check the lower one alot of movement and a knocking noise,also for a petrol car when u start it,it shakes never did that before

If there is a lot of movement then the lower will certainly need doing. It’s a quick easy job.

Hello, sorry only just seen this. the black inserts will really increase the vibrations through the engine. if you remove them it removes all of the vibrations.

It’s very noticeable through the whole car and the brake pedal. With them removed the vibrations have stopped, The bush performs just as well with the inserts removed

I removed the black inserts as I didn’t like the vibration coming through the car at idle, No noticeable difference in handling or performance with them in or out.

@@tonythowtovideos6691 how’s the vibration then with the black insert out? Also compared to the oem? Thanks!

@@firmanazis7227 with the black insert removed there is no vibration. Compared to OEM, the gear changes are smoother with less engine movement. The original OEM unit only lasted 10k miles. Bad design by the BMW group

@@tonythowtovideos6691 thanks!

​@@tonythowtovideos6691 i didn't understand what did you do for the vibrations?can you explain it to me

Did you manage to find a good guide for this?

Hi, no. There is no need to support the engine with a jack. The lower mount acts more of a stabiliser for front to back movement. By changing to the power flex bush you may see the upper mounts wear quicker or may already need replacing.

@@tonythowtovideos6691 My 22’ F56 only has about 7k miles right now. Was looking at this mod to hopefully cut down on wheel hop. Are you saying that you believe changing over to the Powerflex lower bushings will accelerate wear on the upper engine mount? Thanks for your time.

Wheel hop is eliminated by using the Powerflex inserts for the upper engine mount.