Thank you, Dan. I ripped up my track, thinking I must screwed up AND THEN found out it was a lub job that was needed. Made sure I came to you to fix it right.

Nice job Dan. Very thorough and succinct.

Hello Sir, I just found your channel, this video was extremely helpful . Just got into HO trains. Have been into HO slot cars since 1968.

Great close-up camera work

I am glad that I came across your video. As of late, I have had problems with a GP-9. What you described sounds like you were referring to my engine. I am not comfortable taking apart the engine. I lubed the necessary locations, but it still runs sluggish. Thank you again. I subscribed to your channel. I also like how you present.

Thanks Daniel, that was a very thorough instructional video of a negelcted subject, Very nice close up video as well. I need to do this to all my locos!!!

Great video, Dan. It never occurred to me to paint the wheel faces at the same time I have everything apart. Two words: ultrasonic cleaner! I do many decoder installations for friends and I always make sure that the engines run perfectly on DC before I put a decoder in them. As a part of that process, I make sure that everything is clean, in gauge, and properly lubed first. I purchased an ultrasonic cleaner on Amazon that works wonders to clear old grease and oils out of hard to reach places. My method is to take as much as I can apart, wipe out the old crusty grease with inexpensive cotton swabs and tissue paper, then put everything in the ultrasonic cleaner with warm water and a gentle cleaner/degreaser such as Simple Green and run it for at least 15 minutes. If they need another round, I dump out the now very dirty water and start fresh. Once everything is clean, I spread everything on a microfiber cloth and let it air dry. I then reassemble and lube as I go. This method works perfectly every time, and I know I that the engine will not have running issues in the future. I do the same thing for steam engines, although I keep as much of the running gear together as I can, and use low pressure compressed air to dry everything. That ultrasonic cleaner was one of the best $100 I've ever spent and is a great time saver!

Hello, love all your content, presentation, and modeling methods. I always learn something new, and will often watch your videos again, again and again!

great info Dan

Love these videos from you, Dan. They’ve helped me a ton with some of the stuff I’ve started to do and things I have planned for down the road. You’re a good teacher!

Very helpful. Thank you.

Excellent tips Dan! I've been using a container with warm water mixed with a little Dawn dish soap to clean the plastic gears and parts (being careful not to put anything that is conductive in there obviously) and it really helps to loosen dried lubricants. I'll then scrub them with a soft bristle tooth brush and dry them using disposable shop towels before reinstalling and lubricating them, works pretty good!

Hi. Broze bearings do not need any lube because the metal has lube feature itself. This is special alloy. Lube only makes it dirty more faster.

This is one of the best videos on locomotive maintenance. Thank you Daniel.

I find its also helpful to soak the parts in a soap with detergent or a de greaser that's not too aggressive.

Thanks for the tutorial on maintenance. It’s worth a shot over leaving them in a box or disconnecting the drives to use them as dummies.

Yea Dan. Whenever I get a P2k 4 axle loco, I always replace the gears, & in the case of Athearn BB, I always replace the wheelsets with ns wheelsets, as a standard, whether the P2k locos need them or not. Another good video, thanks. Michael NZ

Dan, I do something with these revivals you could try. I flush the gear housings I figure to call them,, with electrical contact cleaner. The old grease just drips out usually. Let it dry and some grease on the worm gear usually works to get them going. I once read the plastics used don't need lubricants. IDK. Also Walthers sells replacement wheel sets for these locomotives, Evilbay usually has them. No need to do the old school Athearn gear swap on the Life Like Proto 2000 units.

Daniel the model train fixer great job 👏 👍

Very, very useful information to know. Thanks for sharing this. I can remember replacing proto 2000 gears a long time ago.

Thanks, Dan. I have an old Proto 2000 GP20 that is having the exact problems you fixed. I had been thinking about just removing the motor leads and worm gears and making it a dummy to add unpowered to a consist, but now I'm thinking I'm going to take it out of the box and see if I can't get it running again.

Good vid- I’ll use these tips on my LLP2K PRR E8, which I just got BNIB

Good stuff.

Good tips, Dan!

Great video as always, Dan!

Cleaning and lubricating engines is my favorite thing to do!

Did you Note any Zinc Rot on the proto2000 locomotives? I have an early 98 Locomotive and I am told Zinc Rot really destroyed the weights in those Locomotives. from the outside everything looks good but when the weight comes off it just crumbles

Wow! That was a ton of useful information. I am especially grateful for this video as I am still dealing with locomotive issues. Many thanks, Dan. BTW, can you tell me who is playing the guitar in your video intros? The style is very impactful. Each note has weight and substance to it, while sounding melodic.

Neato! Got any tips for hiding the metal power strips on the Blue Box Style trucks?

Nice great videos as always