They are absolutely amazing. So grateful. Jason could tell I was stressed out (no poker face for this gal 😬) so he asked if I needed a hug. Maybe the perks of a special client relationship and/or because I have always been ready to pitch in when I have that skill need (read manual labor, coffee getter, errand runner and jokester!

@@ramellesmith1520 Your new home is amazing!!! Enjoy!!!

Yeah! #LetJamieCaulk

@@OperationDarkside He should of been a lawyer.

Nice fake account Jamie 😆

Found the burner account 🤣

Only until he doesn't

No mistakes, just happy accidents

This is so on point.

Thank you! It’s a maybe seeing it once I get it all finished. I am slow, need to make slipcovers and reupholster some chairs and figure out where to put my small to medium pieces of loved artwork. It’ll be a timing thing for Erik

I was gonna comment the exact same thing.

My previous gas stove had them on top and it was awful. The knobs would get so hot and I burned myself on hot pans quite a few times, reaching for the controls. Terrible design!

I do indeed, Bill 😁

Best way to minimize brush strokes is to not use one. Yes, needed to get paint into tight corners, etc., but otherwise do this.... Search some videos by the channel 'Black Sheep House' (HOLY GRAIL of ROLLERS ✨ smooth finish no sprayer). She uses the small foam rollers to refinish old furniture. I have painted a desk and the entry doors using the same technique and would nave no hesitation to even use the technique on cabinets. Wizz or FoamPro foam rollers. I did not brush on and then dry roll like she does, I just loaded up the roller lightly with paint and roll the area a little more than you might otherwise to make sure it is as thin as possible but covering the old finish. It is OK if some of the old finish is peeking through. Don't be fooled by labels, no real painter believes in a perfect "1 coat coverage" claim that paint manufacturers say. Even the best Sherwin Williams store products (Emerald or better, not found in Lowes box store) will need 2 coats to really get perfect coverage and durability. Also your final strokes as you work across the piece should be light pressure so you do not get lines at the edge of the roller because of squeezing the paint to the side. Then don't bother it. It will start dryuing immediately and if you run the roller over it a few minutes later it will not be good. Use some portable lights off to the side so you can see the reflection, or glare of the lights on the wall, door or workpiece to highlight any ridges or junk that got in the roller. 2 coats with a light sand between and it is the closest you will get to a spray finish and looks amazing with just plain ordinary latex paint.

I love PBB and crew for everything they brought to my build! Tim Mason of Bryson City, NC did the preliminary plans. There were changes - pre fab floor and roof trusses with the LR/DR bump out getting 2x6 studs instead of 2x4s - engineer that designed the floor and roof trusses recommended because of the additional 4 ft and the weight. The infamous walk-in closet that later received a 2 ft bump put to the deck. And something else I am falling to remember now. Tim’s info is on BuildZoom. He’s another 40 yr plus friend. I called my build “by/of/for community. It truly was from planning to start to finish!

Your wife is a very intelligent woman! BTW, I have family in Yakima and family and friends elsewhere in WA! My dad went to school In Wapato

You guys will never be out of work. Your only problem lies with the competition catching on. Can't see this happening soon. Commercial integrity beats all

Unfortunately there are 2 extremes in construction. Those that everything has to be perfect and those that just don't care. They figure getting it "done" is the most important part. But it's not done if someone has to come behind you and fix it. I have a real problem with stuff being perfect. I can't help it. There's no way I'm building a house that someone is going to spend half a million to a million on and it's not as close to perfect as I can get it. Drives me crazy when I hear "it ain't no piano"

Sadly, these guys are the only ones I've seen but they don't live in Connecticut.

Pre dampen your brushes helps as well. Wash out and beat out extra water. Also clean your brush out about every hour. I only use Purdy brushes but Wooster are also top quality. All brushes are not equal. Those two brands are the best out there. Purdy XL Dale with the angled brush tip are my top pick.

Thanks for watching and appreciating my home. You’ll hear the whole sordid sink saga next time, oy!

Thank you for appreciating my color choices!

I am ever grateful for all that PBB brought to the table in the build of my home! It was a long twisty road to get to having a custom home by PBB and crew. A lot of losses in 4 short years. So happy they took on my build and thanks to Arlo and my architect for spearheading that, to E&J’s parent for speaking up for me and maybe Jono as well -40 plus year relationships with each mentioned.

That’s my plan! And the sink cut out is likely to be turned into a 4 person bar height table for the catio using a marine grade finish!

Right, Floetrol is a leveling additive for anyone who does not know. It will increase drying time of the paint but that is to allow it to flow out and level with minimal brush marks or roller 'stipple', or texture.

Yes, the foam rollers produce a great smooth texture when dry for doors, cabinets, and furniture. Take care, it takes latex paints on these surfaces several weeks to harden up before you should place sharp or heaver items on the surface. Latex needs time to cure and harden.

A little Floetrol mixed per directions and the small foam roller like the FoamPro or Wizz will yield a nearly texture free finish as close to spraying as you can get.