I’ve long wanted to collaborate with someone on a rollup and I agree, that could look awesome! But so hard to find someone using Bullseye in furnaces.

👍🏼

I have a question as I am new to this. When you say you put clear powder on do you just do a thin layer covering the entire back side of the piece and then refire ? Because your piece is absolutely beautiful

Good luck! I hope it turns out great for you!!!

Good luck!!!!

@@JamaisonSchuler Thanks!

LOL!!! I had to go back and watch - I see what you mean! 😂

I came to comments to say that!!! It appears as you pull out the piece and look at it from different angles looks like Jack Skellington !! 😂😱😱😱

Yes, it can help!

I might have to do some experimenting… in the past when I’ve “trapped” irid under a cap of some sort, I’ve been generally disappointed with it as it loses too much luster and sparkle.

Watch back through some of my old videos and look at the video descriptions for links to certain products and suppliers. You’ll find many of your answers there. Thanks!!

96 glass could certainly be used, but if I’m not mistaken, I think the target anneal hold temperature is different so you might need to adjust your schedules accordingly.

Thanks! I’m not shy about it since it’s going back in for a full fuse so I think I use a 200 grit? Maybe even 120?

No, I only use Bullseye glass, and this was some rainbow irid glass. I think it’s less finicky.

You might find the glass casting calculator found here to be helpful. Tinker around with the different calculators and see what you can come up with based on dimensions of the mold and the depth of the glass that you want to achieve. fusedglass.org/tools/

Keep in mind that every kiln is different and so you may not want to always follow my schedules. In the course of time, I’ve used different schedules for different reasons: I’ve been making projects (and videos) in two different kilns so my schedules may be different for that reason, I may have other projects in the same firing so I’m trying to find a schedule that will work for all pieces, I’ve gotten smarter over time, etc…

Hi there! Bottle glass is tough: it often doesn’t melt the same, and you can never guarantee compatibility between different bottles as the glass may come from different manufacturers.

Links are in the video description. Laurie Spray’s supplies are outstanding!

Yes, Bullseye clear powder, 1101-0008. It’s explained and linked here: www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/quicktip-use-bullseye-clear-powder-to-fix-surface-flaws.html

@@JamaisonSchuler thank you so much, I find your videos really clear & helpful.... Keep them coming!!!!!

Hi there! On Laurie’s Bonny Doon site, look for the mold: M102 Rectangle Server - 8” x 12”. Under the description and photo, she points you to the matching stainless form.

@@JamaisonSchuler thank you ... have a awesome day.

You too and good luck!

Love your videos!

I have a tool called a “frit piston” and some frit sorting screens - you can find these at many online glass retailers or people have made their own. But frankly, a hammer would work too!

I’m not a Bullseye expert - and I just use standard Tekta - so I can’t speak from different firing experience either. But I found this old string that might be helpful? Bullseye is always very responsive if you reach out to them. www.bullseyeglass.com/forum/index/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=3803

@@JamaisonSchuler Thank you very much, it helped me a lot. The Bullseye clear seem to flow better than the 96system. Did some test runs in a microwave kiln before using my big kiln. The nugget technique worked extremely well, even for pendants. Thanks again.

I sometimes weigh but just eyeballed these. I always include firing schedules, glass used, and other info (like a source for molds) in each video’s description.

It’s a 1/8” fiber paper strip, sold in rolls here: bonnydoonfusedglasstools.com/18-fiber-paper-strips It works perfectly! You can see it in some previous videos too.

Thank you very much.

I don’t have these anymore but they were probably 8-9mm? Thicker than standard 6mm but not too thick to slump. Just go low and slow!

@@JamaisonSchuler Hi Jamaison.... new to fusing and having a ProStart Skutt wired up this weekend. I have watched many of your videos. I'll mic the thickness tonight. I use a glass studio to fire my work at the present time and she has done quite well with my work BUT she is very opinion aided...lol. I asked her to slump it and she snapped back and said it was too thick!...lol. But I saw your video on this and I said hey I'm going to give it a try. I'd like to slump my 7-1/2" round scrap into a bowl but she won't do it. I guess I'll try it when I get accustom to my kiln.

@@diggingeverydaydean8080 good luck! Just ramp slowly 200 or even 150°F per hour to about 1200, hold for 10 min or so (no problem opening the kiln to check progress along the way - maybe it’s already slumped at 1180? Maybe 10 min at 1200 isn’t enough?). Try to find your mold or one similar in Bullseye’s suggested firing schedules and use that as a guide. Then anneal extra long for your thickness and ramp back down slowly to room temp. You should be fine!

www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/suggested-slumping-schedules.html

@@JamaisonSchuler .... Sounds great.. I think when I feel comfortable with our new kiln I'll give it a try. I'm making up my test tiles now so I understand my kiln firing temps and results... The scrap Patty Gray piece actually looks really pretty all by itself as I used all Bullseye transparent scraps so I might make it as glass art with a Dave Hardell stand... Thank you Jam... you rock... I have to feel comfortable about programming my Prostart too....lol.

Tekta is not listed on this list of Bullseye glass with concerns: www.bullseyeglass.com/is-bullseye-glass-food-safe.html

Thanks for the help

Gosh, I really don't know what to tell you to do differently. Perhaps this would help? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/prSFZLNe0bOvkWw.html

I tried it and hopefully it'll work - thanks so much for responding so quickly and thanks for the terrific videos