I'd encourage all installers to watch and take note of how thorough you carried out this job! I personally avoid using the power flush machine inside and dump via sanitary ware,but that's just me. I've found connecting a Maglacleanse on the return speeds up the job and by checking the magnets rad by rad confirms how clean they are. When you add inhibitor later on, it would be great to how you test the water quality. Very well done for demonstrating how to power flush proffessionly, I know what a ball aching job it is, so again all credit to you!!!

Great vid, But you do need to protect those rads from marking when agitating. I did,by use anything once and client want ed New radd due to marks. So ever since wrap an old town around the head, still does a job, also a rubber mallet helps. No marks

What a filthy system that was satisfying to watch thanks Luke❤

Great vid fella . What i used to do when flushing was take out the tank & connect cold feed to open vent in loft with a small loop of hep with a valve on so i could flush the open vent and the cold feed as one. If space was available id fit a gate valve on cyl return , isolating the coil and then flushing it like a rad basically once all the rads are done. Id flush the furthest rad first as rhats where mist of the pipework woukd be & woek back to the cyl being last. What impedes the flushing the most are drayton trvs as they only have about a 6mm hole in the valve body so resticts the flushing quite alot. As for fitting a valve on the cold feed i was always taught that was a no no because when the system gets hot it will expand up the cold feed as thats its main function of an open vent system. Yes the open vent allows a free path as well , however if the cold feed is isolated then youre getting no circulation and then you get pumping over. By the looks of that airing cupboard that cold feed moat likely tied into the cyl return which is ok on low resistance system such as cast iron boilers but when british slash upgraded the system they didnt configure the open vent and cold feed properly so most likely caused pumping over by the colour & state of the header tank! I always used tk fit a new ballvalve as id get a call back saying the overflow was going. What you can also do is a combined feed and vent which is 22mm straight into the tank no open vent as long as the boiker has an overheat stat. Stops air being sucked down the open vent or pumping over . Uaed to do it on all myson apollos in the 80's sshh showing my age now 😅

Nice long vid to cheer me up from yesterdays loss. Lads did us proud.

Top professional work as usual.

Great detailed job mate. Regarding balancing the system; 1 turn, 2 turns, etc.... But can you explain, maybe in a future video if there's a technical way, (flow/return temperatures I believe), on how to balance the system?

Nice video very informative, must get a workout everyday. No need to go gym 😂

Nice one Luke love watching your content 👍🏼

Brilliant 😊😊😊😊

how much does a clean like this cost?

great vid keep them coming. cheers luke

Nice through job mate 😉👍

Another great vid mate. They’ll be lucky to match those tiles tho !

Thanks for the video. Surprising what tradespeople won't do, how can you flush and not clear out the F&E??

Reyt mucky.

Was that the cold feed and open vent on the f&e tank you linked together bud? Not seen that done before but makes sense for expansion and overheat. ..

Wow, I really don’t do enough it seems. Getting agitated just thinking about what’s involved

This is a normal day at work form most of us. It’s why you charge by the hr. I love it when jobs take time.

What flush machine you got mate ?

England no bulls too much respect

Nice job, fook me there was some sh1t in that magna leak filter 😂

😂🤜😎👍