Most HYPED Climbing Shoe Of 2021? Unparallel Flagship REVIEW

Most HYPED Climbing Shoe Of 2021? Unparallel Flagship REVIEW | Climbing Daily Ep.1804

Рет қаралды 44,857

3 жыл бұрын

The Unparallel Flagship is a high end climbing shoe, designed for precision and power. The Flagship attempts to combine sensitivity and flexibility with precise edging power. It's a tricky balancing act to pull off...so what do we think about this new shoe?
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Пікірлер: 65

@douglashunefeld9947 3 жыл бұрын

What shoe would you recommend, that would be an equivalent to the Boreal “Mutant”?

@niccolofinardi4825 3 жыл бұрын

TOO BAGGY OVER THE TOE BOX WTF

@isaacacosta9748 3 жыл бұрын

These are already one of my favorite shoes ever. I disagree with you that they are primarily edging shoes tho. I have mine definitely sized more aggressively than you but I feel they excel in smearing as well as edging. Fairly even between the two.

@nathanogara9660 3 жыл бұрын

How far down from your street shoe size did you go

@isaacacosta9748 3 жыл бұрын

@@nathanogara9660 2 and a half US sizes or 3ish sizes in EU

@jimmylanik5404 3 жыл бұрын

@@nathanogara9660 I went down half size and feel aggressive yet able to stand on small hold and not feel like my foot or toes are going to break

@gordonshlai 3 жыл бұрын

@@jimmylanik5404 have you used other unparallel models? Wondering if u would size them similarly. I’m currently sizing half a size down from street shoe for my Regulus and was wondering if I should keep that sizing for the flagship.

@jimmylanik5404 3 жыл бұрын

@@gordonshlai I have regulus too and I down sized those a half a size as well.

@rmmichael95 3 жыл бұрын

Besides the top of the heal being a size up from the bottom so the shoe doesn't fit well, I like mine. Maybe I can use plastic to force my foot in a smaller size but the fit is really wonky compared to any other shoe I've tried. Maybe need a lv.

@outdoorworld9912 3 жыл бұрын

Only with cording!!!!👌🏻

@LindaMantovani 3 жыл бұрын

No small sizes available though... :(

@MrMosherMosher 3 жыл бұрын

Anyone know what Helmet he is wearing? @ 7:04

@dailyclimbing 3 жыл бұрын

The Petzl Boreo! We've done a review about it... check it out kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nLd7g9OhusnUe2Q.html

@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog 3 жыл бұрын

Is it me or do Matt’s shoes look way too big and baggy? And that’s not a diss, I’m actually really curious. Great review though Matt, maybe you could review the Mastia from tenaya next?

@TempBall 3 жыл бұрын

yep, looks like3 sizes too big..

@michaelesparza2439 3 жыл бұрын

My main gripe with this shoe is that the midsole is very baggy on me despite the toes and heel being tight. The heel gets a bit sloppy on me once it's fully warmed up but the toes are great.

@jimmylanik5404 3 жыл бұрын

I went down a half size and haven’t had an issue

@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog 3 жыл бұрын

@@michaelesparza2439 which explains why Matt’s shoe looks so baggy in the upper when he bends his foot. Thanks man✌🏽😃✌🏽

@rhyhl 3 жыл бұрын

@@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog I've found that generally the case with Unparallel shoes (regulus & TN pro), I've got wide(ish) feet but not high volume vertically so theres a little bit of space. Might give these a pass if its the same case.

@naimad111 3 жыл бұрын

What other brands shoe would be comparable to this one stiffness and fit wise? The scarpa instinct vsr or are the even softer, let's say like a skwama?

@hyau23 3 жыл бұрын

Vs (orange) is stiffer but if you want really good edging then get the boostic

@andrewscott5059 3 жыл бұрын

I think people generally label this shoe as a stiffer high end bouldering shoe, so comparable models would be scarpa’s instinct VS, boostic, mago, and instinct lace or la sportiva’s testarossa/miura.

@DroppedMyMelons 2 жыл бұрын

I climb in skwamas religiously and these are definitely comparable imho. Just ordered my flagship lvs!

@Cooldood13 3 жыл бұрын

Do the gigajul

@CytrixX45 2 жыл бұрын

7:37 does shoetest -> campuses :D

@dailyclimbing 2 жыл бұрын

That’s his style 🙌

@maxblair3317 2 жыл бұрын

I can't believe Climbing Daily is going to act like the new TC pros aren't worth talking about...

@dailyclimbing 2 жыл бұрын

Ha! Tune in this Friday for the gear sho(e)w! 🙌

@paulmitchell5349 3 жыл бұрын

Not a word about how sticky the rubber is .

@danielfry8097 3 жыл бұрын

The engineers responsible for 5.10 stealth rubber were involved with starting unparalell, so probably compare to stealth rubber

@mrmonsterhunter808 Жыл бұрын

I know this is an old comment but unparallel uses the OLD stealth formula, so it’s actually good compared to the shitty new version made by adidas to be cheaper to manufacture. If you liked old 5.10, you’ll love unparallel

@yolaos8837 3 жыл бұрын

skwama..... the best.

@patob3363 3 жыл бұрын

5.24. insanely dangerous rope position

@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog 3 жыл бұрын

Assuming he’s clipping on the left, that’s actually exactly where you want the rope. How is that dangerous?

@patob3363 3 жыл бұрын

@@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog he falls back, rope catches back of knee or foot as he falls past anchor, pulls leg up, back of head becomes paste against wall. 5.57 is the correct way

@Sajuuk9 3 жыл бұрын

Like Matt does not know this? you must climb perfectly all the time.

@patob3363 3 жыл бұрын

@@Sajuuk9 rope around the leg is probably one of the few rules i follow religiously cause if you fall your almost guaranteed to get fucked up. you can back clip or forget buddy checks but this will kill you. so ya, kind of a big deal

@ABSVabeautifulsunsetvlog 3 жыл бұрын

@@patob3363 the rope isn’t around his leg, it’s next to it and if you’re clipping on the left side that’s exactly where you want the rope to be. I understand what you’re saying about stepping behind the rope but that only applies to your trail leg. So if he were to move left he’d want to step over the rope and have the rope be on the right side of both legs , but when you’re climbing straight up, the best position for the rope is on the side that you’re clipping. And the move that you’re talking about he steps over the rope with his left leg and then the trail leg is behind the rope (which is how you get flipped)...so the correct move there would be after he completes the move, to then also step over the rope with his right leg as you generally don’t want the rope between your legs as you’re climbing (though you do at times have to have it there when you’re making certain clips).

@MrDziuka 3 жыл бұрын

Not convinced

@calarsmahrathi 3 жыл бұрын

Shuj priz mi sar

@Sajuuk9 3 жыл бұрын

they look.. floppy somehow..

@hyau23 3 жыл бұрын

But that price tag tho...

@jimmylanik5404 3 жыл бұрын

I bought these a month ago before the price increased 20 dollars

@MF-CLIMB 3 жыл бұрын

£150!!!

@andrewscott5059 3 жыл бұрын

I honestly don't think I can take this review seriously. The fit Matt had on these shoes is so obviously bad it's not even funny. If a shoe doesn't fit your foot, turn down the company wanting you to review them, or better yet, have somebody else who it does fit review it. If you just sized them horribly, then I'd be embarrassed to have that recorded on camera. I think the most likely answer is that the shoe is way too high volume for Matt's foot. Many companies make their super high end shoes higher volume as a way of allowing people to downsize more and scrunch their feet in, and it's clear Matt did not do that with these shoes, and even recommended a LOOSER fit! Why on earth would you do that? Some of the facts/thoughts on the shoe also do not follow from reality, or even from UP's marketing themselves. A good example of this madness is the assertion that due to 3.5 MM of RS rubber (a soft compound on par with Xs Grip 2 in the stiffness department), the shoe is incredibly stiff and edging oriented. What? if it was 3-4 MM of RH I could maybe understand, but RS is not some edging compound. A more likely explanation would be the stiffness of the half-length midsole, which UP describes as "Hard". At some point, I can't trust the reviews put out by this channel, and wouldn't recommend them to anybody looking for info on shoes. I initially had skepticism, as EpicTV do profit from favorable reviews, but I was willing to put perverse incentives behind because you are the only show in town for many of these shoe reviews. I don't think I could label this review as factual or useful, maybe I could call it marketing at a push. Do your job please and properly review shoes.

@richardbradley1532 3 жыл бұрын

Serious points which I think Matt should respond to:

@browa03 3 жыл бұрын

Yeah gotta agree with you man, the fit looks almost comical with all the extra material folding when he's standing on things. I downsized my TN Pros a whole size down and even then I could've gone a half size smaller if I wanted a real performance fit, advising to size up from street is asking for a poorly fitting shoe. Also not really into the branding change that UP are going for now, the minimalist look and simple colours of their line is what drew me to the shoes in the first place. Now they're going the direction of every other shoe company with horrid colour combos and over the top branding.

@j.l.5966 3 жыл бұрын

I think it’s the shoe’s design with the excess upper material and baggy heel. Matt initially tried 8.5 but had to send them back because he couldn’t fit into them. He does need lower volume shoes though since he has narrow feet and smaller heels.

@dailyclimbing 3 жыл бұрын

Hi Andrew, thanks for your detailed response. I thought I would try and address some of your points. I feel like I have fairly average feet, they are a bit on the narrow side but in my experience fairly standard. The fit I went for on The Flagship was aggressive. My toes were crimped at the front and tight around my foot. I tried a smaller size of the shoe and couldn’t get my foot in them. For me, this size was correct. There was an excess in material over the top of the shoe, however this was purely aesthetic and did nothing to affect the performance of the shoe. It’s certainly something I would like to see tweaked in the future and perhaps improved. I completely disagree with you about the stiffness of the shoe. I would be interested to know if you have actually tried it? The Flagship, for me, was stiff and powerful. I have been climbing lots on a 40 degree board with tiny footholds and it’s insane how much I can stand on my toes. It’s great on edges, and I think less good on smears. I have been working in the climbing industry for the last 5 years, and a climber for almost 10. It is a tricky balancing act to review and sell products. I don’t always get it right, but I stand by the opinions I put across. I do not review products unless I think they are up to a standard. One of the joys of this platform is that we can share opinions, the review is my opinion, and thank you for putting your across. Hope that helps to clarify some things. Matt

@dailyclimbing 3 жыл бұрын

@@richardbradley1532 See the reply down below...