Is this the same stopping technique without ABS?

Unless your bike has an imu and prevents rear wheel lift by engaging abs. My cb300r flat out wont lift the rear wheel more than a quarter inch before abs kicks in and puts it down.

isn't it correct you should also push back getting your arms straight to prevent the bike from doing a stoppy especially on a sport bike or Grom. So smooth progressive pressure on front light to reducing pressure on rear. Head and eyes up. Pull in clutch and down shift. Left foot down. Check mirror ready to take off if they can't stop behind you.

My 2021 MT09SP engages the front abs before the rear wheel lifts. It’s too intrusive in my opinion, you feel there is plenty of grip still on the front wheel but the abs kicks in, even with progressive brake pressure. You get to a point which is probably 85% brake pressure (guessing as it won’t let you get to 100%) and the brake effectiveness decreases noticeably after that.

Highly recommend *not* repeating or otherwise enforcing what *not* to do -- great to analyze once, but then repeat and enforce the *correct* technique so that your brain goes to that when it needs it! You don't have time to think about what not to do in the moment -- only to react with the correct thing, which comes through repetition and practice of that correct thing :)

1 thing - I was taught by my instructors that stalling the bike (not necessarily on purpose) when you emergency stop is a better alternative then grabbing the clutch too soon and causing the rear tire to slide from the loss of power in an emergency situation.

@@mozzer8234 Your riding instructor was either misinformed themself or you did not fully understand their point. Pulling in clutch is not going to cause the rear tire to slide -- in fact, pulling in the clutch gives you the highest chance of making the rear *not* slide. However, it will also fully negate any engine braking that is occurring, so you will lose that source of braking power. Leaving the engine brake on (by leaving the clutch out) has a higher chance of causing the rear to slide under heavy braking, but it will also add a few more percent of braking in most situations which is likely worth it in an emergency scenario.

@@fu5ha_edits interesting, that’s good to know! Thanks for the insight

Missed the stalling bit. Thank heavens, I don't do any of these....

Thank your abs if you grabbed your front break :)

@S--most definetly!!

Why “then push rear hard”??🤷‍♂️ Good thing you survived because you just did the opposite of what Greg said.

@@alexxela754 i have ABS. front brake is always first, make sure bike is straight, then use rear, seems to work. i don't want the rear tire coming off the ground.

Damm this is the exact same reason why i am watching this video. Some Pedestrian have no respect for traffic rules. 😑. Best solution is to ride slowly.

Modular helmet is always a mistake...

@@RandomTarnished my favorite helmet type is modular helmets.

U can lock it even when it's open

@@RandomTarnished why is it a mistake?

@@uchiwamadara4614 I think it kinda gives the sort of false safety, idk I prefer full for my safety

Aye, I'm Charlotte area. The places that offer MSF courses (I did Rowan county community college) also have advanced courses done on a personal bike. I would call the college and ask around, the desk should be able to point you in the right direction.

@@ASMCourtney Thank you ;-D

Technique should be almost identical but I'd be very interested to see his take on this!

Probably not with the tires from 1977. Rubber deteriorates over time.

@@XcelentTom. Hi thanks for your swift reply Tom, The tyres are brand new, but they are the same sort of tyres as used back in the day, are you familiar with my bike its a two stroke classic Tom, there is a picture of it on my Chanel if you have a moment to take a look, regard John.

Obviously I'd say number one is to never go anywhere close as fast as your peak skill level anywhere but the track. Slow down even more for roads that you're unfamiliar with. I'll let the professionals fill-in the rest though so I don't somehow mis-inform you.

Highside crashes happen when the *rear* tire loses grip and then regains it. There are three main causes of this, which are all very related, and all of them happen on corner *exit*. 1. You went to the throttle too choppily. For example: you were at maintenance throttle through the corner, and then as soon as you wanted to accelerate again you snapped your wrist instantly to 50% or even 100% throttle. This means you don't give the elastic suspension and viscoelastic tires enough *time* to squish and load the rear tire, and instead the rear just breaks free of traction, and then a couple seconds later it bites again and bucks you into a high side. 2. You went to the throttle smoothly to start with, but then added throttle too quickly afterwards. For example, your first 5% of throttle was smooth, but then you went instantly to 100%. In this case, you've properly loaded the rear tire to begin with, but you simply increased throttle too quickly and again caused the rear to break free, causing the same as above. 3. You added throttle without taking away enough lean angle to compensate. This can be combined with either of the two above points, but it can also be a cause on its own. Even if you are smooth with your throttle the whole way through, if you stay leaned over at 50% of your max lean angle and get to 100% of throttle, you may simply overload the tire all together even with proper loading, again causing it to break free. To prevent this, *only* add throttle as you are able to *take away* lean angle. So, the mantra to remember for all of these is: "once I can see my exit and take away lean angle, I can smoothly roll on the throttle". What you never want to do is *jerk* open the throttle, or to add throttle while maintaining the same lean angle.

If it's a serious issue for you, get a smaller displacement bike until you master it completely. It's a typical mistake to immediately go for big power, but as Fusha explained so well, it's easy to lose traction when cornering on a powerful bike. Ride a small bike first, where irregular throttle input won't send you flying off. I've been riding a 150cc for two years, and I occasionally still do small mistakes that could have turned bad on a 100hp+ bike.

I had the same problem, it's because I grabbed the brakes too quickly. Initially there isn't much weight on the front wheel, so you need to brake gradually in order to load the suspension. Once all the weight is on the tire, you can brake REALLY hard. That's what Motojitsu means at 2:06

Apply the brake smoothly but firmly, give the bike time to dip forwards before going all on the brake.

Your revs will drop so low I doubt you would be engine breaking by then.

If you don't pull in the clutch, you have to slow the engine and the wheels. I'm not expert but in my few years of riding it's what I've noticed

@@austinschwartz2684 as in without the clutching in, you would need to use the brakes yes?

@@davidemmanuel9721 what I mean is that if you don't pull the clutch in on an emergency braking situation, you have to fight to slow the engine as well as the wheels, if you pull in the clutch you don't have the engine continuously trying to turn the wheels while you try to stop them

@@davidemmanuel9721 in non emergency situations you can slow almost to a complete stop using only the engine, but this is dangerous because it doesn't illuminate your brake light so it's harder to tell you're slowing down

@@austinschwartz2684 interesting

rotate your wrist up before going to the brake.

Rear brake needs to be pressed first so the bike leans forward and compresses the front suspension in a controlled manner. Thereafter, front brakes all the way.

Im curious what roller coaster that is. It looks like the Raptor at Cedar Point. Lol

Any bike, yes

Down shifting first in an emergency? Don't think so

@@teslastream practise it,it's more effective,i does it every time and it is a success proof is i am alive

@@lallumanohar4107 Proof is I am alive and I don't use it. :) I don't think you have enough time to downshift in a real emergency break scenario. Do you initiate the downshift after you start breaking? And then release the clutch?

@@teslastream all these three process will take less than a second, squeeze the clutch dip the gear and the same time apply rear brake,load rear shock then squeeze front brake,every time I use the same for last 15 years,no problem so far, practise practise practise. i had a jawa with autoclutch something similar to the reckloose clutch but only after first gear no need of using clutch for upshifting or down shifting.

+ kr@p camera work !

Nope, he explains it in other videos. Basically with 2 fingers you are more likely to get that optimal brake power and mor fine tuned like in this video: 10,20,30,60,70,80,100% instead of the typical 0,10,20 to immediately 100% whem using all 4 fingers ("grabing the brakes")

If your bike has adjustable levers you might be able to get maximum braking power before the lever touches your fingers.

It's all about squeezing the brake gradually, so you don't want to be abrupt. If you squeeze too quickly (or GRAB the brake), you'll probably end up doing a stoppie or something :D

"Cheater ABS"?!? That's the only way to roll.

What that mean

No weight on the back brake when stopping hard so it wont slow you down much with abs, without abs it will just lock up and skid.

Yes, but you must practice doing that so you don’t even think about it. You get in the habit of doing it.

@@jhask64 when i had to emergency brake, i was hitting rear brake(that's after grabbing front hard) hard and stomping gear lever at same time. i think just out of panic.