Excellent! I tried something like that for a while and it did okay- but then my build plates adhesive started separating.

Thanks for your input! Did you decide on one yet? I want to recommend a creality printer to you BUT being that this is my only printer I can’t guarantee that my issues aren’t my fault. What I do know is that there is a huge creality user base with people eager to help out.

@@NerdsWithFriends I backed the Creality CR-6 SE that is currently on Kickstarter. Won't be here until August, but that give me lots of time to learn Tinkercad and other design software. Thanks again for your video.

Gordon Claridge of course! I super enjoy making them.

Any time! Still waiting on my shark review unit 😉

I’m glad this was your take away. With my first video I was in love- smitten by 3d printing. I don’t regret owning the sc-10, but it was given to me as a review unit. As of late I wish I had a printer from creality though just for the abundance of support and stock marlin. Thanks for the input!

Pigeon Print thanks dude! I’ll give it another look. You’re talking about the 6 concentric nuts left and right of the hot end? The ones that move up and down- correct? Also - I don’t think my motors were locking when pausing either- which made switching filament imposible mid print. I think I’ll post another short video this week regarding a problem I’m having printing PETG (first time printing with PETG)

Also it’s worth noting after a firmware update my z-axis does now lock when paused.

@@NerdsWithFriends Yep, the ones left and right of the hot end, not in front of it now, but think only the 2 of the wheels (the ones nearest the hotend) are adjustable eccentric nuts, but if you adjust them to be tighter to the frame it will hold the whole X carriage up under its own weight, so even if you power the printer off the nozzle won't start creeping down towards the bed or into a print, should there be a power cut. Man I am not a fan of PETG :) if I could give you any tips it would be 0% fan for the first few layers and then bump it to 20-50% (lower you can get away with for how much briding/overhangs the print has) add a couple of mm to your retraction distance (PRTG loves to be stringy) and set the bed temp hotter than you need for PLA, 75c is a good starting point but have to go up a little higher. Good luck, can't wait for the next video!

Pigeon Print thanks for all the input! I started having catastrophic fails right after I received my PETG and have been trying to get the printer back up and running for a week or so now. I also found one of my pulley wheels had seized (the one behind the carriage) and I’ll have to wait to be shipped a new one before I can do much else. I’ve returned everything I can think of but I THINK it ended up being a problem with my PTFE tubing- after replacing that (again) my proms got a lot better although I’m still having an issue that looks to my like a y-axis layer shift. My belt seams about perfect and I don’t think I’m skipping teeth. The x axis- though it had a frozen wheel- didn’t really appear to be effecting my prints UNLESS the extra draw from that stepper could have cascading effects.

Pigeon Print I haven’t had any successful prints with PETG yet so I’m not sure how I feel. More to come on the next video.

Never would have thought of that!

Peter Ebenezer hey Peter! Glad it was useful to you. I’ll try to not be so long winded next time and hopefully a little less awkward! Haha. I think it will be a great buy. I’ve been having fun!

@@NerdsWithFriends Long winded...? Nah, In-Depth. Don't worry about it, Didn't think you came across awkward, I thought it was fine! Keep it up!

m.all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/ I followed this guide! It’s pretty simple to follow! Good luck!

@@NerdsWithFriends Thanks, I will check it out!

I still fight with this issue. I did just recently get a couple slabs of glass. 1/4 inch is too thick. I’m having some different issues though. I’ll get back to you with an update once I get everything straightened up.

Sorry for the late response - for some reason I am not receiving notification from this channel. For sure. I’ll get a screenshot of their settings up in the next video- though I have to run everything hotter than advertised- I’m not sure if it is environmental or if I have a bad heater cartridge or thermistor or what but my heat settings are always at the top of not over the recommended. As far as the firmware flash goes- I was indeed referring to the text file which I also thought was weird to refer to that as “firmware”. After “Flashing” the machine does indicate a newer firmware version... my build plate is also pretty warped but I have been able to find a happy medium that is “good enough” but I think the best we are going to be able to do is adding a glass/mirror build plate to really get a flat surface... which is a poor answer... and I can’t find one that is the right size. The mesh bed leveling - is that for something like a PLTouch? I wondered how the compatibility with this machine would be and if that could be a solve for the warped bed. It’s on my list but not something I’ve delved into yet.

Man- I’m sorry you haven’t had the greatest of experience with them. Like I said in the video- mine has largely positive and maybe I am wrong in my assumptions but a lot of my issues I just assumed were “a part of the process” of 3d printing. I’ll try and get an updated video out soon on what’s been going on with mine and what I’ve learned.... my next video will be a bit more negative in the sense that my prints turned south and I need help.

Nerds With Friends hi - mesh bed levelling is a bit like a manual BLTouch - you manually go around the bed taking z offset readings (typically in a 3 by 3 grid) and it gets stored in the eeprom - allows the printer to cope with a warped bed (plenty of videos on it - check out teaching tech) Lotmaxx have told me the sc10 is not BL-Touch compatible - but if they would update the firmware to Marlin 1.9 we would get mesh bed levelling for free - thanks for the update on the ‘firmware’ - where were you looking that gave you an indication the firmware had been updated

Alcopup gotcha- I’ll check it out. That sounds super useful if it get added. On the printer- if you go to settings About it spits out a firmware version. I’m on v2.0.5 now- I was previously on 1 dot ... something.

I’ll check back in with you tomorrow. It’s 1:30am here and I have work in the morning. Thanks for being a part of what’s going on here!