Me too!

I was always taught that tapered roller bearings shouldn't be loose, but they definitely shouldn't have any preload. So tight enough to take the lash out, but not tight enough to preload them because both too much lash and being preloaded will wear them out quickly.

I've personally watched her beat the dogshit out of that poor black jeep in the mud at donley's woods..... theres a reason it's on its 3rd transfer case lol

I'm betting your 8 week wait, turns into 16, because, race parts.

The nylon ones are pretty tough, so it's hard to say. Brass does have a weak material, they might wear more . King pins in semi trucks use brass bushings though

@@fluke196c A friend of mine make that same observation when he watched the video. Probably the only advice I'd change is, if you think the towee is an unsure driver, just have them hold the wheels straight. That will help drive the vehicle back onto the road without the risk of popping out too quickly and them failing to correct the steering fast enough. Sometimes things happen too fast for some people with a yank strap.

@original post "I think just switching to studs from bolts can help. I had the infamous loosening CJ hub bolt problem, and after some forum lurking, I switched to studs and never had a problem since. Not sure why that is." I figured I'd try to look this up since it was fresh in my mind. I ran across an article talking about using head studs instead of head bolts. (side note: I also ran into articles that indicate that they should be called head _screws_ as a bolt uses a _nut_ and a _screw_ does not. All depends on where you are on the spectrum) Of the practice differences, one stood out to me that could explain the problem. Studs have more consistent torque holding ability because they stretch linearly and not torsionally (theoretically) because you are using a nut on them. A bolt(screw) will twist some as you are torquing it down and will invariably have some twist in the metal when you are done. This force will always be trying to loosen the bolt(screw). I think that explains the problem I was having. In the case of those hubs, when everything was new and tight, it was fine, but reusing old bolts(screws) in old hubs, maybe with a little more play than when they were new, works on the bolts(screws) and loosens them up.

A couple reasons, first is money, he's on a budget as the videos fund this operation he has to choose what to upgrade strategically. Second is he doesn't really get into the nasty rocks and whatnot much so it's not really necessary. Hell I get into really nasty stuff and my tie rod is in the stock location steering 42s. I just see it as protecting my diff cover caus im too cheap to buy a plate one lol

There's a ball joint model, and a king pin model. There is bearing in the bottom side the top just has nylon busing

There is a seal that is pressed into the inner C just below the tapered roller bearing, but no bushing. The bottom kingpin cap has a pin that goes up and runs through the center of a tapered roller bearing that spins when you steer. The upper kingpin's main purpose is to put preload on the bearing in the lower kingpin. The bushing and spring are what apply that preload. With big tires the plastic bushing can get destroyed and the preload can be lost on the lower bearing, causing it to be destroyed.

You don’t want them tighter. You want them at their specified torque spec.

I enjoy the shop videos. it's cool to see what's behind the giant tires and squarebody

Probably coming from the guy who takes all his stuff to the mechanic to fix for him...

I enjoy watching paint dry its more exciting than this channel be different if they really knew how to repair it .