Go with the c2 set with the RD amps and you’ll be set

Lame! Haha! The C6 appeared on their website about 2 weeks after I bought the C3s. Darn the luck.

What amp are you using? Just curious.

Glad you found value in that! Thanks for watching

Which did you find better jl c5 or the hertz

That's the great thing about quality gear, it lasts! These should be a pretty simple upgrade for you assuming the step up from a 3/4" tweeter to a 1" tweeter isn't limited based on your install location.

@@CarAudioFabrication At this point, since the car the system lives in is no longer covered under any warranty I have no reservations about doing some modifications, including sound deadening and a few others. *One question I do have is,* do you have a video on fabricating new install points for speakers? My idea is to have woofer, mids and tweeters all in front and leave the door woofers in the back the way they are, but the truck doesn't have spots for 3" speakers anywhere. I do realize that the C6 doesn't appear to have that size, but the design is still fluid rn. Thanks Mark!

Once you audition the C6s you will likely want to switch.

What sizes?

@@CarAudioFabrication 6.5” component set. Ran them on a JL Audio 500/5. C2’s in the rear and 2 10 W3’s sealed. Best sounding system I’ve ever heard.

I still have the C5s and a stealth sub in my pickup. Absolutely incredible sound.

Exceptional all around. I know. I own these.

Side note - The specs shown in the video are from the other product listings for when purchasing the woofer and tweeter individually.

Yep

A dsp is $1000 , hifi speakers are at least 600-1000 minimum.

I just went on Crutchfield, I searched 6.5" component sets, and sorted by price. The range of available options across a wide variety of brands is from $60 - $5,500 for a 2 way component set. So by definition these actually fall on the low end of "mid level" pricing when going purely by the numbers. Now that might not match what you personally view as low end vs high end pricing, but we aren't evaluating the cost of these based on your wallet or mine, everyone's definition of affordable is different. We are defining them based on the range in the market.

Yup you are 100% right. The market is disgusting 😂 youd think plastic paper and steel were gold looking at those numbers ​@CarAudioFabrication

The market is just fine. There’s a $50 set just for you! Enjoy $50 distortion at 1/3 volume.

I just replaced my C3 650 with the Focal es165kx2 and ec165k2 back doors they sound awesome

@@silverevans7763 i bought my c3s when i was working at JLAUDIO been running them on active at 100w a tweeter and woofer i like to be loud and they do pretty good

These are much better than the C3s.

@@dalewiley9208 im sure they are but my c3s are still doing great

@MaxMax-sj7wb they’re still going strong so no plans on changing anytime soon

The car with Harmon Kardon assuming it's a Chrysler product they make an Idatalink AR module and the ARC Audio PSM PRO which makes it plug and play with full band width from your stock radio. And has all the harnesses so no wires need to be cut at all. Very simple to integrate with for most competent shops

@@melissathompson7229 Yes, Dodge product, see my name😉😊 I know that good shops can do it without cutting wires but the shop that did my truck 10 years ago did my brand new 2016 Road Glide, added two JL audio marine amps and four new Focal 6.5” speaker and hacked my factoring up bad!! Had my brothers friend that builds competition bikes redo it all and switch to the DB Experts and sound digital 1200/4 amp I would have him help me but he doesn’t work on cars and I really don’t want screw my new baby up!!

I'd love to, its on my list! It always helps when you guys post comments like these to know what you want to see next!

@CarAudioFabrication I really like the JL products. Coming from a full Hertz install, the next one will definitely be JL. May go Mosconi premier on the Amps though. What's your view on those amps or the pairing to JL

Iron core inductors don't impact the sound until the iron is magnetically saturated, which takes a LOT of power. Sand cast resistors don't actually exist as a term in manufacturing or engineering, that word was made up by con-men. If anybody uses it, I'd be VERY skeptical of any of their other claims. Active sounds better because you can use steeper crossover slopes and time align more accurately.

@@blakebrockhaus347 Danny Said Different GR Research but I appreciate your input

Personally, I would just use them passive. However, passive xovers use a lot more of your amps power than active. With active, you can use a smaller amp, or even put the savings into a higher quality, smaller amp. Its really a judgement call on your part. Passives are also a plug and play install. You get a complete system and you know its all going to work properly.

These are a good step up, very linear and accurate like the C7, tweeters are larger than C5 and thus more efficient but a similar "smoothness" IMO.

I'd recommend snagging yourself a pair or visiting a JL dealer near you to find out!

@@CarAudioFabrication are these better than Hertz 6.5 component?

JL Audio has a CF line with a 3.5" if you go to their website and look under custom fit.

Leave the crossover and Y the speaker wires just before it.

Call Crutchfield. They will talk you through installing it yourself. Should be able to do it for 1/2 that or less.

What type of sub is it and does price include amp and sub and cables everything routed and done for you? I just know that I bought an amp for 115 with 10inch sub kicker and it ran me around 200 bucks with cables and all... just be advise I installed it myself. So 200 bucks for amp with warrante 5 years , 10 inch kicker subwoofer 5 year extended warrante , and cable kit.

@@ElectricBlade thx for the reply. It’s just a JBLBasspro nano (sub & amp) with wiring kit. I’ve watched quite a few videos on it and thinking about doing it myself. $600 is ridiculous for install only.

@mryan3204 hell yeah install only nah man. It's too too much. They will talk to you like "we will try and tune the frequency" trying to make it sound hard. It isn't just look up how to tune an amp yourself. It's simple once you start doing it yourself

Sure can! Coming soon!

Your stock Bose amp probably has preset non-adjustable crossover settings built in specifically for the stock speakers, and the resistance of the speakers & amps on some Bose systems is sometimes 2ohms or 8ohms, or even a combination. Some factory amps are even designed to reduce output on certain frequencies as you turn the volume up in order to prevent damage to the speakers. If you replace your speakers with aftermarkets and use your stock Bose amp to power them, you can play with the tuning on your head unit a little, but given that most are just "bass, mid, treble" settings, you don't really know what range of frequencies you are adjusting or what kind of power your new speakers are getting from the stock amp. And it may actually not sound as good as you would expect. When I replaced all of the mids/highs in my Yukon with a stock Bose system, I powered them with their own amp and kept the factory sub running on the factory amp. That way I was able to tune the overall sound better. The factory sub is more defined, and the mids/highs are more clear and full. I didn't get an aftermarket sub because I need all of my cargo space available. For you, I would suggest getting a small amp with built-in DSP to run your mids & highs if you replace them. Set your factory bass at what you like, then tune in your new mids/highs for a good balance. You may not be able to crank it because the amped mids/highs could easily overpower the factory sub, and it would eventually sound unbalanced, but at normal listening it would sound much better. What I've found is that if you're dropping good $$ for quality components and an amp, then it isn't too much of an add'l cost to add in a small sub since all of the legwork for amp wiring is already being done. At that point it's just an amp and sub. Or even a small powered sub.

Have you seen this video here - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q9dxibGembHDlpc.htmlsi=2jH7y4QBMfYHUOml We went from stock to JL Audio C2's and even on deck power the difference was substantial. Immediately noticeable. I haven't heard the factory Bose system, but if it's anything like other OEM "factory premium" upgrades in my opinion you're definitely going to get better results aftermarket. Remember proper installation is key (again watch that video I linked)

@@jp1087 oh, for sure. I used to sell and install car audio back in the day and am quite familiar with what you are saying. I am actually fairly impressed with the stock system. Back in the day we used to say “if you ain’t got no highs and ain’t got no lows, then you must have Bose!” 😂 Having said this. I am now at the age where I still want some good SPL, but with improved quality. I replaced the stock “Infinity” speakers in my 2018 Elantra Sport Premium Package DCT with the current gen RS set of coaxials for the rear and center channel. And the components for the front. These were also 3 Ω so I get a tiny bit more from the factory amp. While they sounded leagues clearer and the treble much clearer and precise, overall, the system lost midbass as compared to the stock drivers… I also added a JBL Basspro Hub to the trunk. Once coupled in the spare tire well, it def added some punch. But still, overall the midbass isn’t there as before. But the rest is considerably better.

You will 100 percent lose bass unless you add a real amplifier and a DSP of some kind....as a professional installer I get asked to do this often and after trying it a few times I will no longer entertain this unless they're going to upgrade the amplifier/DSP in the very near future

@@AlexGtheDon And, the variation in "factory" systems from one manufacturer to the other is absolutely mind-boggling. Inherently, the GM stock Bose systems all suck and sound flat no matter what tweaks you make. That's why I upgraded my Yukon system.. But the stock Bose system in my Altima is a different story, it sounds amazing as-is; and the amp is 3x the size of the one in my Yukon even though both systems have the same amount of speakers and both cars were from the same year. I had a Hyundai minivan that had the 12-speaker Infinity surround sound system. That was awesome too for a stock system, very clear even though it lacked a little on the bass. DVD's is where it truly shined though.

Not even close. The 6s are extraordinary. I own both.

Bro, are they really coming out with a new 13W7? I just bought the C3s, and two weeks later, the C6 appeared on their website. I have the 13s in the cart. Stop me from making this mistake twice?

@JayRSwan I actually called them last Thursday. They guy sed they're gonna make anutha w7..dnt kno if it's gonna be SQ or SPL or neither how many more wattages they're gonna put in it but yes sir they are. Hell I just brought an incriminator audio 15 myself..as soon as it drops imma get one also..13.5 w7

Check out the new "CF" or custom fit line. Perfect solution

If memory serves me correctly, the XR's are an old speaker arent they? I had a pair XR 650 components and absolutely loved them!! I removed them from my old vehicle when it got totaled years ago and have them tucked away in my basement somewhere. I've gotten the itch to upgrade my current cars audio and I swear I'm thinking of using them again.

@@dboogiewoogieone Yes they are old already, but some say they sound better than what’s available at the moment. I just installed a set and I am really impressed.

​@v8tergt653 I had JL XD Amp driving them ( I can't remember which one) and it really made them sound sweet. Have you auditioned any other speakers? My money is a little funny right now so any upgrading I do gonna be a slow roll.

@@v8tergt653 I put some 500 dollar set in my last car.. now i got a 200 dollar set.. difference is small really.. like above 200 bucks returns are so small.. yes the materials are better.. tweeter a bit better.. spending time/money on the installation is a lot more important.. and what amps u put them on.. Id just get a set u like.. maybe spend 100 bucks more to get that compared to a cheap set.. but never spend more then 500 bucks thats crazy money... On the other hand if ur already spending 1500+ bucks and 3-4 days of work to put it all in u might aswell get a set that costs a bit more.. but spending 800 dollar on a set compared to like 400 dollar.. ur not getting much more worth..

That's an excellent question, I'm surprised you are the first comment asking as that was my first question too. I wasn't able to obtain an official answer. I hope so though!

Sure, as long as your amp can support the ohm load required to drive the tweeter.

Yes, you can buy the tweeter separately.

With JL the larger the number the higher end the speaker. The C7 are still top notch, but the C6 really punch above their value.

Crutchfield has a great return policy! I’d reach out to them and get them swapped!

@@kymanc161 Thank you for the advice. After seeing the pricing difference, I'm considering just buying a second set of C3s. I'd like to have four 6.5s in that zone instead of just two. especially now that I have broken in the C3s, and they sound fine-just too quiet at 75 watts. Now, I would be worried the C6 at 100 watts might also be. That would be very costly to have to double them.

@MaxMax-sj7wb have you heard the C6 already? Do they get louder than the C3?

True that!, I actually prefer the 6.5 and tweeter and than adding an 8" for mids.

@MaxMax-sj7wb Every 5.25-6.5 has so much detail lost from the 150hz-3/4k range. That range (for the most part) requires a separate speaker to fully capture the details of that range. I had c3s. I decided to upgrade to 8s in the doors, tweeters and 4s in the A pillars. It’s the most surreal sound I’ve ever heard.

C7s are priced individually

Spotify/Tidal playlist? Coming soon!

@MaxMax-sj7wb they’ve disappeared from the internet now too! I’m in australia and they only have c1, c2 and c7 When i wrote the original comment they still had c3 on the jlaudio website

C5s are discontinued. I’ve seen some advertised on eBay.

@@dalewiley9208 yup, looks like c3’s are about to be the next casualty

While I don't know for sure, I am fairly certain manufacturing location was already selected prior to the Garmin merger, these have likely been in the works for awhile. JL likes to make sure everything is perfect prior to release. In regards to overseas manufacturing you can't just assume every product made overseas is of poor quality, it comes down to the QA standards of the company. Good companies will go through the right processes to verify quality. And as of now a TON of JL's line is still made right here in the states. See the factory tour here - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nJhddM6B2Zy1XXk.html

Just like not all stuff made in America has the best quality control. Truth be told most my made in America product has the worst QC. Don’t forget you’re paying a lot more just for that made in America tag. America manufacturing is not the greatest. Just look at everything that is made in America especially car manufacturing. America pays more now than ever for poor quality workers. Profit above all

Your wallet doesn't define what is mid level. The position in the market does. Components range from $50 to $5000. So very much so in the middle.

@CarAudioFabrication not trying to be argumentative, just saying that alot of people associate high end with the quality of the gear.. and midrange priced gear doesn't cost $1000 for one set of speakers.

$1000 is very much mid-range for car audio. If you only want or care about budget speakers and what the best budget speaker is, that's okay, but this is a mid-level speaker.

@@CarAudioFabrication do you consider them warm or bright speakers

999 ddollars

$999 USD for the system

The C7 and W7 are made in Florida.

Excuse me. The C7 woofer is. The Tweeter is made In China. According to the bottom of my C7 boxes.

So how are they any better than anything else made in China. My CDTs are still made in the US. Image Dynamics still makes their subs in the US.

@@lakorai2 You have freedom of choice to purchase whatever you like. Don't like it, move on.

Not really, I just went on Crutchfield, I searched 6.5" component sets, and sorted by price. The range of available options across a wide variety of brands is from $60 - $5,500 for a 2 way component set. So by definition these actually fall on the low end of "mid level" pricing in that range. Now that might not match what you personally view as low end vs high end pricing, but we aren't evaluating the cost of these based on your wallet or mine, everyone's definition of affordable is different. We are defining them based on the range in the market.

A thousand bucks is a lot of money for me. But Mark is correct about the market spread for comparable quality. The C3s were half the price but the sonic improvement of the C6s truly surprised me. So far, it has been worth the extra $500. We’ll see.

@MaxMax-sj7wb 👍👍👍

These "talk" well!

Morel MT 450 is $275 each, JL audio C7 tweeters are $300 each Morel Supremo Piccolo $550 each, and focal utopia tpm are $1000 each. Shall I go on? There are plenty more.

@@JayRSwan golllyyyy I mean shit I’d imagine it’s unimaginable quality of music almost like wearing headphones in the car I’ve only touched the tip of ice berg . I bought some focal icu 165s for 50 didn’t think the prices were that high tho thanks for the feeed back buddy

What is your point?

It looks very dated aswell. For JL money they should be provided something much better looking. I was a huge JL audio fan but for less money you can get so much more and even better quality.

What’s some other good SQ brands u can recommend for speakers and amps ?

They are no longer in production. C5s or ZR650s. C1, C2, C3, C6, and C7

I know that, still people just talk about c5’s!

Ive had the xrs, zrs and both were great. Loud, clean and never any problems.