Hey brother thank you so much for stopping by I appreciate it and I will show you the group. Nitro RC enthusiasts group on Facebook. I'm an admin look for the guy smoking in dark sunglasses 😎 you will see me around. 🤘🏻🍻💯

@@thebug4046 hahaha!!! Sounds great, man!

@@brandonpfister welcome buds 🤘🏻😎

@thebug 404 Hey Bug! ... I put in my request to join Nitro RC Enthusiasts a good 24hrs ago... and answered the questions. I have not heard back as to whether I will be allowed to join or not. I wanted to make sure I didn't mess up somehow. What should I do?

@@brandonpfister Rejoined again there has been a little bit of a glitch lately.

You are very welcome! Glad it helped ya! 🤘🏻🍻💯

Thanks for watchin bub 🍻💯🤘🏻

Thanks man 🤘🏻🍻

Thanks for watchin!

@@thebug4046 no problem!

Any time

Nothing wrong with the block on the HPI But the carbraters are garbage they're really cheesy they don't tune all that great from what I have found and that stupid steel sleeve on the bottom will get loose and then your carburetor will spin in the block no matter how much you tighten it down and then it will get stuck in the block and ruin it.

Nice and yeah I was quite surprised at such a strange bearing size for such a common Taiwanese made engine usually they're all pretty similar or almost the same and yeah I have a new piston and sleeve kit on the way for it as well as A Pull starter and a few other goodies. Should be a good runner once again!

Could be a manufacturing defect I'm not sure I haven't dealt with one of those engines before but it would probably be a good idea to replace the bearings to avoid a failure.

@@thebug4046 I put the kids to bed and was going to tear down the engine to yank the bearings out. Before I did though I spun the crack back and forth a lot and I’ll be damned the roughness all of a sudden stopped. Turns smooth as silk now. I don’t get it at all. Removed the backplate and nothing fell out. Clean as a whistle. I guess I’ll run it and break it in and if it keeps leaking I’ll install a double sealed bearing in the front unless someone thinks that is a bad idea. But I’m baffled though why it was turning so rough. 🤔

@@Thedudeabides803 keep in mind the bearings don't seal the engine. It will always leak if it's tuned to rich or to much after run oil was used. I have a video explaining it

@@thebug4046 awesome thanks man, I won’t worry about it then. I have run exclusively and many 2.5 and 3.3. Traxxas engines since 2001. Love your videos on them btw. Who knows they were all probably leaking and I just never noticed. First time with a different engine other than a Fantom .18 I had way back. This engine cost me an arm and a leg comparatively so I am monitoring what’s happening with it with a very scrutinizing eye. Cheers

@@Thedudeabides803 Definitely good engines to learn with for sure since there's such an abundance but yeah when you start getting into these hide all our engines shit gets expensive quick! But yes like I had mentioned with the whole front bearing thing they don't seal it's actually a liquid seal between the crank and the inner case of the engine kind of an interesting design really if you pay close attention to how it's designed. Old European rc car on road engines ran without any kind of seal or shield on the front bearing at all! It's a myth that companies came up with to sell you bearing that you didn't need and when you change out your leaking front bearing for a new one that still leaks Leaves you scratching your head for a minute wondering why and all it is running too rich. 😆 but I'm glad you find the videos helpful! 🍻🤘🏻💯

Dynamite 28RTR is the same for parts. Same with the force 28R

They may have had different versions. Always good practice to take out the existing bearing, measure and order from there. That way there isn't any chance to get the wrong size. Some manufactures even used the same block for different engine types (so they look the same/similar) but, all of the internals are different (crank especially). Did you ended up getting the correct size bearing for your rebuild?

@@a2rc Yes, I ordered it this week and should have it by tomorrow - made for the .21 to the .25 (apparently they are the same rear bearing). This is also my first engine with no cut-out of piston skirt too...

@@th3duke1 That's apart of why I enjoy rebuilding engines so much. They are like easter eggs lol they all have different surprises inside. I am glad you have the bearing ordered! You will have her running again in no time

Truth be told 💯 haha

You're very welcome! And yes from a glance the 4.1 and 4.6 look very similar to each other. A lot of people get them confused because of that.

No other rods available for Traxxas engines unfortunately. Just change it out after the first half to full gallon along with the bearings and wrist pin. As far as bearings i run SKF or NTN Bearings or usually in everything without issue. Avoid Traxxas bearings or Chinese bearings or fast Eddie engine bearings are soft stainless steel garbage and don't last. Acer bearings are good or NTN OR SKF. Os lc3 or LC4 Glow plug

@@thebug4046 Thanks bug ill look into the bearings listed. I also will be changing the crank to the RCR crank when i change out the bearings and conrod. I am running a LC3 plug also along with the OS11 carb.

@@jamesklimowicz7591 should go pretty good!

@@thebug4046 Thanks for your help and videos should make this very easy.

@@jamesklimowicz7591 got lots of 3.3 videos rebuilds and all that 😉🍻

I don't think so. As the 25 engine is smaller cc

The only thing I can think of that would be different would be the amount of porting it has you'd have to analyze both photos to make sure they're the same or different.

@@thebug4046 Thank you

@@chrisk2767 no worries

It has a very small amount of it yes. But but DO NOT use sodium hydroxide it will destroy your engine parts in seconds and leave you will a pile of junk. Use a strong alcohol or cook the parts in green coolent outside away from people or animals. Or use brake parts cleaner

@@thebug4046 yeah, not going to put it haha, pure sodium hydroxide is going to corrode aluminum in a fraction of seconds lol.

That's hard to say without seeing it or hearing it it could be too rich it could be too lean it could have a fuel or exhaust system leak it could have a plug that's on the way out. Put a fresh OS lc3 glow plug in and open the high speed needle. If it gets worse then lean the high speed needle till best performance is achieved. If it has the plastic exhaust sometimes they melt and clog the pipe. Make sure the fuel tank is not leaking. Or the exhaust is not leaking. Very important!!!

Thanks a lot!!! I'll check@@thebug4046

The picco p3 is discontinued a long time ago. You will have to send the engine to RB Mods to have it pinched and get fresh bearings. As for a losi 454 it's literally just a rebrand SH 28 P8. Any SH big block or Dynamite big red pinch bolt carb starter crankshaft bearings etc will fit that engine.

Thank you for the info Bug 404

@@Nitro-Aaron31 no worries

Same porting?

@@thebug4046 identical sleeve crank backplate surprisingly there's no lawsuit if it was traxxas involved there would be

It even has the fang off the ports that fource does I don't recall seeing fangs in other dynamite engines I'm thinking the engine was made by fource for dynamite

@@samsonight2721 Thank you for the information I will definitely check that out

@@thebug4046 ya idk about Canada but in US u can get those engines for 100 to 105 bucks new all day

Hey man not too bad and the dynamite 28 is made by SH different company but they are both very good engines and nice and interchangeable between their other brands. I hope your back is getting better soon!?

@@thebug4046 yeah I'm getting to work everyday.some days can't get full 8hrs. Hope your 🦵 doing better brother!!

​@@ofnaguycarlwatts8602 Sounds good buddy and yeah it's getting there slowly but surely still got a long road ahead of me driving me nuts I can tell you that much!

Pissed an end sleeve are completely shot not worth it. It's getting new parts

If it was blown up it wouldn't run at all. It's kind of hard to diagnose that over a text like this I would suggest putting a new plug in as well as using fresh fuel and making sure you have no fuel or exhaust system leaks. GLOW PLUG OS #7 fuel 20 or 30% nitro no more than 12% oil. Also be sure to check out the Nitro RC enthusiasts group on Facebook Be sure to answer the 3 questions and posts a video of the issue. I'm an admin guy in dark sunglasses 😎 see you there! 🍻