Some of this stuff was pretty far gone, I don't mind sap veins and such, but when you need to spend 20mins flattening one leg, it gets pretty tiring ;) Bunnings sell F17 hardwood, which is (at least in Bayswater) vic ash/tas oak. I've also bought from Mathews and WR Timber (Kilsyth)

Depending on what you're gluing up, liquid hide glue is also a good option. Long open time, lubricates the joints, and less expensive than epoxy.

Paul Jenkins also good to know thanks again bro!

Oil gets reapplied once a year, seems to be holding up just fine. AU weather can be a bit harsh, but haven't had any issues with staining/etc from food/spills/so on. Table is still bright red - less so when its due to be recoated, but hasn't turned grey yet!

+Kuffys Woodwork I put extra heavy coats on the end grain (boy did it suck that up!), But other than that, no. I was originally going to do "epoxy feet" ala The Woodwhisperer, but ran out of time before my helper went on holidays and I needed to get other bits done first. I figure with it being class2 timber, and where it is it never pools water, even with rain, I probably have a bit of time up my sleeve before any damage happens. Do you know if there is an "outdoor equivalent" to the stick on (or nail on) felt pads?

I've just used a rubber bumper screwed on with a galvanised or stainless screw. They were pretty hard rubber, that super plasticy stuff which isn't very rubbery. Me english aint gud. It lifts up the bottom of the feet just enough so that water can drain freely without the timber fibres wicking moisture back up. Damage won't occur for donkey's ears, but staining can happen fairly quickly.

All those fancy internet machines and then so idiotic

As I said in the video, its a spiral upcut bit from Freud. Specifically this one amzn.to/2FFrF3f I'm a big fan of it, but any of the big brands (Amana, Whitesite, etc) would probably perform equally. Do not attempt to use a drill bit in a router as its unsafe - the RPMs are much faster than on any drill press, and the bits aren't designed for that, or for the side loading of a router.

It gets oiled once or twice a year, no signs of damage but a 10minute process to 'renew' it is all thats needed

I don't think there is any one particular best finish for all circumstances. The most durable is going to be a penetrating epoxy (CPES), followed by exterior grade polyurethanes, which have UV blockers. Eventually the exterior poly needs to be replaced - maybe 3-4 years - and to do so requires sanding back. CPES + poly is relatively expensive. Then there is what I used which is closer to a decking oil. It will likely require a coat every year - maybe a bit sooner if we have a particularly nasty Feb/March summer. It won't really require sanding back/through as its not a film finish, and application is easy and inexpensive. At this stage, I'm just trying out this particular finish, I can always add stuff over top of it (but if I started with poly I couldn't!) Both timbers used are class 2 - they're good for 15-40 years above ground, untreated.

Unless you use it daily, it is a good idea to cover it with a table cover or tarp. That way it is protected from UV and water damage and it is clean when you want to use it (no bird poop and much less dust etc).

Thanks!

+samsske you don't generally do breadboards on such thin tops with an apron, or slatted tops.

Paul Jenkins hmmmm.... didn’t know that. Thanks!

Once a year, it gets wiped down/cleaned, then a fresh coat of oil is put on as-per the instructions. No sanding, just top up coats. Still looks great, no water damage, etc

+3210gatorbite I call him Bill

Its an IWoodLike PT310. Only available in AU, but Rikon and Jet have very very similar models.

For.. what?

I already had the material for the base, so I can't really price that, but for the top, finish, and screws it came in under $200AUD.