I have it in my notes to make a part 2 to the AFC tuning video! I'll get on it!

Install a boost elbow on your wastegate. Sounds like you need more air for the added fuel.

Thanks! Tried to cover everything

I’m just working on getting the p pumped 6.7 12v going so my plan is to make a follow up video with tuning it as well as the turbosmart boost tee! However, I also have a product I’m developing that will allow you to electronically tune the AFC housing, no air line balogne or anything, but it may be several months out before it’s ready to sell. I may showcase it once I have a functional prototype

That would help, you’d also want to pull the pre boost screw back

You could pull back the Pre boost screw to limit low end fueling (get rid of the smoke) and loosen the star wheel to ramp in boost fueling more aggressively to counteract it being slow off the line

I think the stock governor springs start to pull fuel at 2200rpm or somewhere around there, 2k is quite low… did you put the AFC full forward or mess with any other parts on it? Make sure the air reference to it is hooked up So you can do 2 things: 1. Check for boost leaks and make sure the air reference to the AFC housing is hooked up 2. Verify fuel pressure, and/or replace or modify the overflow valve on the p pump (search “pen spring mod overflow valve Cummins” in google)

I haven’t had one in mine for years I haven’t had any issues from it.

I’ve had luck with fixing pumps that have stuck racks. Typically it’s wear and foreign object damage (bad filtration), plus ultra low sulphur diesel doesn’t have any lubrication to it compared to the standard diesel fuel that these trucks burned when they came out. Helps to add some ATF or outboard 2 stroke oil to help with lubricity. Did you by chance have a rack plug and gov springs?

Ya those would be a good upgrade over stock, just put in a EGT gauge and don’t over over 1200 degrees for long durations

@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge thanks!

I’ll write it down on my list of video ideas and see if I can get to it!

1.5” OD, .333 hole ID (5/16?). I’ll put it in the description, I didn’t think to mention it! Always happy to put info out, everything I’ve learned is from some trial and error or a ton of hours on google researching things, so it helps to have it all in one place for people. I didn’t think this video would be this popular, but I don’t think anyone else spoke about how each change really translates. Ya these trucks are pretty gutless from the factory! After driving a modified one it’s hard to go back when it’s so easy to turn them up haha Putting in a “boost Tee” or “boost elbow” the raise the wastegated boost pressure to 35psi will yield some good gains (stock is 20-23psi?, 35psi is 100% safe on the stock turbo) as well as just moving the afc housing forward and adding a rack plug. I’ve always said that your right foot is the best controller for smoke and EGTs, so you can crank all the fuel up and everything but if you don’t put your foot to the rug then it won’t get hot. So on my personal truck i won’t go higher than 1200* for long durations (pulling a large hill for example), but it’s fine to step on it and hit 1400-1600 for brief durations if you’re racing someone or having fun haha! So I’d try a rack plug, 16* of timing, afc travel mod, leave the AFC in the stock location, or move it forward and pull back some pre boost fueling, and pump up the boost to 35psi and it should make a happy 300hp. If you want some extra insurance you can re torque the stock head bolts to 120ft/lbs, or get some grade 12.9 socket head cap screws from a nut n bolt store (search mighty diesel head bolts for a example) as a budget upgrade. Or go with ARP headstuds if you feel like spending some extra money. Lastly, a good shift kit and some raised line pressure goes a long way with keeping the stock transmission alive. As well as a upgraded trans cooler.

@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge Thanks for your help!

@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge I've been considering the retorque to 120 ft lbs and have a couple questions... 1. After removing and cleaning each bolt individually and lubing them with oil, do you take them down to 120 ft lbs all in one step? Saw one guy taking them to 135 ft lbs, but recommended 115, then 135 after all were at 115. So 120 would be all at one time if I only take them to 120 ft lbs? 2. The Dodge service manual has some screwy instructions, such as taking all of the bolts down, in sequence, to 66 ft lbs, then torque ONLY the long bolts (4, 5, 12, 13, 20 and 21 in sequence) to 89 ft lbs (Note that all of these bolts are on the intake manifold side of the head), and lastly tighten all bolts an additional 90°. This seems really odd to me being a gasser engine mechanic, where normally all bolts are torqued to the same torque in a sequence, then turning ALL bolts an additional 90°. Does this seem right to you?... some bolts (the long ones) being torqued to a higher value, then all bolts turned an additional 90°? This goes against everything I've ever experienced with torque on head bolts... Really appreciate your info! Thank you.

Subaru heads are torqued like this also, center bolts have more torque that the outside ones.

On the very back of the AFC housing?

@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge yes

Must be in California because I’ve never worked on a EGR 12 valve haha Just take the battery terminals off and let it sit for 5 minutes, then put them on and fire it up and it should clear the codes

If everything is tight the code should clear in about 50 miles. Failing that, your OBD2 reader should have a Clear Code button. ;) Is this the year the '98 falls off the smog inspection list?

Yup! I’m not sure on the specifics for how much power you will gain but it definitely wakes it up! You’ll love it!

Sounds like they loosened the star wheel a ton so it’s over fueling for the amount of boost you have You can also turn back the smoke screw (back of the afc housing, 10mm and Allen key) I would also check for boost leaks after doing the aforementioned fix

@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge sorry for the late reply i just rewatched your video again. Star wheel was under no tension as you stated. Also turbo was a box borg warner and not machined to work on a second gen dodge so i have fixed that its alot more drive able now. I was referring to your video as now ive advanced timing and upon looking at my afc it was gutted so got a foot for it and trying to get rid of the white smoke from unburnt fuel at idle, its worse in gear it clears up a bit when its warned up and goes away when driving but soon as i stop can just see white out of the exhaust. Not sure if there is a solution to it from the afc

@@Aleasysn just remember when your adjusting things to deal with white smoke, white smoke is incomplete combustion at low combustion temp not same as over fuelling which is black smoke, hence why they have heater elements in intake for cold climate starts

@@Hitman-ds1ei that is true, i switched out my DVs last weekend from full cuts to 055s its helped alot with the white when not under a load but now its a pain to start when cold, its so frustrating some times.

Jake Baader likely slipped timing, does it do it no matter how hot? If so then that’s it, if it does it cold but not hot then it can be injectors

Yeah it does it at any temperature. I always make it is warm before i drive it.

The adapter - fuel heatet between fuel filter &filter base gasket is bad &sucking air ,replace gasket or eliminate heater base.

Well it’s a Bosch pump so I do German spec, Gut-N-tite! I think they’re like a M10 so I’d say 30-35 ft/lbs? I just snug it with a wrench (I like to change the nuts out to stainless nuts 1 at a time to dress up the pump)

CLR works good at removing rust you just have to clean it out really good after using it. WD40 could help free things up but I’m not too sure if it will remove any rust.

Filling the gov housing will cause it to drain into the oil pan yea

@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge i flushed engine a few times cause vessel was submerged so i needed to do so

@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge Starboard side engine is surging or doesn’t start at all. What could be a reason? I checked governor springs and they look good but i didn’t check AFC springs i guess there is two of those. Any ideas?

@@dsadzaglishvili verify rack travel by removing the AFC housing and moving the throttle. There’s a square block that should move forward and back

I havent but its in my video list, stay tuned for more!

Should bolt right up I would swap out the govenor springs for some 3000 or 4000 rpm ones as I imagine a 8.3 is governed pretty low

Dub Nasty ya I’m not saying you should do it, but I did it 😂 4k is pretty safe on stock valve springs tho

Haha I run like 2000-2100 just o go barely 70 and I feel like she’s gunna blow. Couldn’t imagine 5500

It’s crazy how much misinformation there is about things! A little good info goes a long ways

Try a local diesel shop that works on injection pumps, or phone Farrell diesel, or remove the stock one and measure the diameter and see if you can just put a o ring in its place

Bigger injectors pretty much Or governor springs On the afc housing/p pump itself you can make a fuel plate that doesn’t limit in the top end but limits on the low end I need to make a follow up video

No, that could be low fuel pressure, bad overflow valve, or slipped timing

@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge new parts have been installed up to injector pump including overflow valve.

Pressure going to injector pump is good. So that leaves timing issue you think?

DuraMAxFanatic stuff works awesome! I mix it to like 4L of water and drink it over the course of the day like a delux-coffee lol

@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge yes sir!! Thank you for making this video for us! I have a light weight BD spring for the afc and Industrial Injection #6 plate to install. Then it will be .055 D.V.'s and injectors!!

Shhhhh I’ll get automatically copy write claimed 🤣

click click boom

Shoot me a message with some pictures on Instagram I’d like to see this!

Desafortunadamente no hablo español, pero parece que estoy recibiendo un buen número de comentarios en español, ¡así que tal vez debería aprender!

I’ve installed close to 8 sets of $50 Amazon governor springs with no issues. If you’re getting “bucking” and starting issues it helps to add more tension to the idle spring, as well as adding a extra spring to the throttle return as it can make the throttle touchy