I do understand your pain )

glad to know someone else enjoys such kind of things)

Станки тоже из бумаги)

Спасибо, и приветствую ))

Thanks, actually, I started with bigger models, and then gradually decrease their size simultaneously increasing number of cylinders (single cylinder -> inline-4 -> v6 -> v8)

In case of single cylinder motor (and probably twin-cylinder as well), usually flywheel is used to spin the mechanism from one power stroke to the next. But if case of more cylinders, flywheel is not needed, because the timing could be set so that power stroke will be in one of cylinders at any moment

есть уже ) - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n8-DgdCSp9qse6c.html

@@nothingssmore Тогда даже не знаю. Ты уже всё собирал из бумаги. Может только если дом...

@@mkcompany17 умный дом из бумаги тогда)

Thanks! Yes, it is possible to have more cylinders, but I have no plans to build such a model, at least for now

по коленвалу - я записывал видео по изготовлению бумажных осей kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i6-bZ9SAs92UoqM.html по поводу суперклея - не пробовал без него, но эта модель возможно будет работать и так, т.к. бумага здесь нужна довольно плотная

Thanks. Of course orientation of crankshaft and camshaft is important. As far as I remember, during filming this tutorial I tried to stick to the instructions as much as possible, but maybe I missed something. Overall, the mechanism should work so that the "first" cam on the camshaft should open valve when "corresponding" pair of pistons are near from their top dead center (maybe slightly before or after it), then "second" cam should open the valve, and "corresponding" pair of pistons should come to their top dead center at that moment, and so on. This is the main principle, and when the system is set up this way, you can "fine tune" it by changing the mutual angle of the crankshaft and camshaft (gears should not be glued to the shafts so that engagement angle can be "shifted")

@@nothingssmore Thank you so much for the advice! Also, do I need to apply any friction-reducing mechanism on the inside of the cylinders? Heres a video file showing the reversed orientation, camshaft movement and piston movement, and mirrored tubes on the top, since I think it would be a lot easier with visuals: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1cE1Q-Rmr5c0H_b6jN2V-adiG2ClqZDiq?usp=sharing Oh, I'm also working on my version of your micromotor! :)

​ @Technocraft159 , as far as I see, angles of cranks on crankshaft in your model are opposite to the instruction (drive.google.com/file/d/1gSt8JSZkD8ShJk-ZjQh-g1GHUJBIeSA5/view ). In instruction pictures, if look along the crankshaft, the cranks orientation should be "counter-clockwise", for example "left", "bottom", "right", "up". Detail 14 also helps to set correct angles (see video from 4:00) And in your model orientation of the cranks is "clockwise", probably that's why crankshaft and camshaft can not by "in sync" using original templates. As for the reducing of friction, I can suggest graphite powder - apply some amount of it inside of the each cylinder and spin the crankshaft to spread it on the surfaces, and remove the rest afterward

@@nothingssmore yep! I realized that I couldn't undo that! :) so I tried to account for that by reversing the camshaft action compared to the instructions and the tubes on top as well! Essentially, I tried to make a mirrored version. I'm just not sure it will work, or if it will run backwards? So I tried to make the camshaft counterclockwise since the cranks were reversed to clockwise. Or maybe I could flip the cylinder part around to the short end?

I can not say exactly if it will work this way, but you can always try it

i want to build this engine too, but my sugestion use some dry lubrication such as graphite from pencil

@@21_luthfanakbar33 i tried that but unfortunately it didn't help much

@@chomumama5978 owhh sowryy maybe u can make the cylinder wall sturdier or make the piston more smaller, gudluck trying again :D

@@21_luthfanakbar33 well thank you :) I gained quite some experience while building this so If i decide to try again i would know where to not make mistakes. Thank you for your replies!

@@chomumama5978 ur welcome ;D

Thank you! No, I have no any ways for donations, and actually I didn't think about it, maybe sometime in future. For now this channel is more like an addition to my hobby, I'm not trying to promote it very much :)

It depends on the thickness and density of the cardboard, but I'd say yes, with scaling of templates cardboard of appropriate thickness would be ok

I used OpenOffice Draw application - it is vector image editor

Vdd

Sim mano, cara top

yes, I use air balloon to power the model at the end of the video

As for the camera, I'm using Nikon D5300. And I have no any special lignting equipment - only "regular" table lamp

can't say for sure. I'd suppose yes, but can't guarantee, recommended density - about 160g/m2

@@nothingssmore thanks for the reply, i did a try and those little pieces feel really weak on regular paper. But I'll see how it goes :D

For this model I used mostly paper of 160g/m2 density, except for axis - they are made of thin paper (you can try to use 80 g/m2, or better paper which is used for cheques in shops) Yes, I usually use small strip of paper to apply glue, but you can use any convenient tool for it, like awl, or even toothpick. For reducing friction you may put some graphite powder (rubbed from a pencil rod) to the cylinders, and to the other moving parts

@@nothingssmore how do you make the axles so thin and with a solid center?

here is a video tutorial for axis creation kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i6-bZ9SAs92UoqM.html

Возми бумагу для черчения

см. описание. Купить можно думаю в отделах канцелярских, или школьных товаров, или "для творчества"

see description

He used whatman paper of A4 format and with density about 160g/m2

see description, A4, 160g/m2

Thanks sir for replying

"waste" air goes through the gaps between pistons and cylinders, as they are not perfectly sealed

in most cases I do it by modelling knife, but it is also possible to use a punch of corresponding diameter, or drill (probably it is better to cover the paper with superglue)

в этой модели как раз через "дно" и реализован "выхлоп", если его закрыть - точно не заведется. Но если закрыть не полностью, т.е. в нём будет отверстие с трубкой, тогда вероятно да

I dont stick to any specific brand, just choose the one which is suitable for specific needs - for some tasks I use very liquid glue, sometimes more dense one is needed

I'd not recommend using 75g/m2 for this "big" model, I believe that kind of paper would be too weak. You can probably use at least 120 g/m2, maybe it will be ok; but recommended density is 160 g/m2

@@nothingssmore ok, thanks

Thanks. Not in SNS, only in paper modelling forum - only-paper.ru/forum/70-6997-1

​@@nothingssmore Thank you for your reply ! OK, I've visited the forum. I'm really enjoying your works. I'm looking forward to watch your new videos !

Actually there are not so much combinations - if the rest of the model assembled correctly, you can try each of 16 mutual positions for gears, and one of them should work (actually even several of them might work, but one of them is the optimal)

I made a couple, but they are "static" models, you can find a photos here: only-paper.ru/forum/70-6997-1 I thought about some flying model with a paper engine, and came up to the construction similar to this one kzfaq.info/get/bejne/f5d_mZSIt9WXaKc.html , but I'm not sure it can be made from paper - the lightweight, airtight and durable tank for the compressed air is needed

см. описание видео - там ссылка на pdf с инструкцией и развертками

без осмотра конечно сложно предполагать, навскидку - если трения нет особо, то возможно неверно собран коленвал или распредвал, проверьте положения колен и кулачков

@@nothingssmore спасибо за ответ В какой программе вы делаете свои чертежи?

if you print the templates on A4 paper, all the measurements should be correct

1. I'd say it will depend on thickness of paper. The "small" V8 was designed to print on 80g/m2. This "big" version is scaled up in 2.5 times, and it is ok to print it on 160g/m2. Maybe it would be ok to scale up a bit more (say to 3 or even 4 times), but I can't say for sure, it should be rather tested 2. The main point is to assemble shafts according to instructions, especially how cranks and cams should be placed (from nearest to furthest): for camshaft - clockwise, for crankshaft - counter-clockwise. And then, after the whole model will be completed, you can try different mutual positions of gears to find out position in which model works the best way

yes, thought about something like this, but didn't try, I'm afraid it will be too heavy for such a weak engine; but anyway, thanks for an idea, maybe will try it in future

@@nothingssmore you can use a valve for throttle to make a pressure smaller and then put another one to have a throttle.

A4 is only about size of paper, and yes, this format is ok, but you also will want to consider paper density - I used about 160g/m2 (also slight deviations from this value are possible, I guess)

Maybe you applied glue at the bending line? Even a small amount of superglue can make paper very stiff and prevent from bending easily. Otherwise, even if the valve is not fully closed "at rest", it should be closed automatically by the air pressure when the model is running

you can try to orient gears so that some valve is about to open, and pistons in its "corresponding" cylinders are in the upper position. But eventually, you can check all mutual positions of gears (it is only 16 options) and try to start model in each of them

в основном цианакрилат (разной степени жидкости), иногда ПВА

Точно не монолитный, гнется довольно сильно, тут в основном играют роль "уши" которыми к основному валу присоединяются колена, я бы даже сказал что в этой модели вал хлипковат. Но для демонстрационных нужд прочности хватает

A4 paper

see description

All the sizes should be ok if you print templates on A4 paper

@@nothingssmore

thank you so much

i appreciate that you replied thanks

I'm trying to make models mostly from paper, so remote control would be definitely impossible

for this particular model only several details should be "reinforced" by covering with superglue - these moments mentioned in video, but for most of the parts it is ok to use just regular paper of corresponding density

He might used card stock

I already tried to film a tutorial for "small" engines models, but it is almost useless because of the small size of parts - almost impossible to have a good view of the assembly process. Or at least I can not film it properly for now ) Maybe sometime in future

this is the side surface of the piston, look at 1:59. I don't remember exact size in cm, but you can find it in templates, after rolling it should correspond in diameter to part 2.2

I think it is possible, but I'm not planning to build such a model, at least for now

nope. I thought about it couple of times, but it also require quite a lot of time to build a "stand" for measurements

it is better to make them from office paper, only make sure that the diameter is correct (about 2 mm)

there are such a models, for example kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iLWlg7WkxNiumWQ.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fraIptByqqzZgGQ.html so it is not so interesting for me to build it, but maybe sometime in future

@@nothingssmore okay how about a paper hand programmable by gates powered by balloons?

@@bonemoney4845 yeah, baloon-powered T-800 ))

Millimeters/centimeters. But as for templates - it is enough to print them on A4 paper format, and all dimensions should be ok.

Thnkx

usually I cut all the details with the sharp modelling knife, like this www.hobbies.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/084ca19aa5ee10728706fd297654f270/3/1/31073_mk1_1.jpg

it is ok if they are not close fully by themselves, because they will be closed by the air pressure during working. But if valves can not be closed even compulsory, for example by hand, it is definitely not ok