Brilliant video, well made and most informative but most of all you have restored my sanity knowing that I'm not the only one still left in this world that still grovels underneath their shonkie old motor in order to save a penny or two and keep it on the road. Big fan of the old copper grease as well, if only every body else could see the light of lubrication.

A good and clearly explained/filmed video - thankyou. I have just done my ball joint on my BX and though I replaced it only four years ago it was so firmly corroded into place that the old ball joint would not move. The amount of pressure that I had to put on it meant that the pins on the special socket tore into the metal and it wouldn't grip on the ball joint anymore. I had to weld a large nut onto the ball joint and even then the force required ( with a long scaffold bar) to move it was enormous. In such cases the thread in the hub carrier must be thoroughly cleaned with wire wool and WD40 before putting in the new ball joint otherwise it just won't go in, let alone as sweetly as this one does in the vid. Also take care with the gaiter when installing the new ball joint - it's very easy to split it.

Thanks Gordon for putting this video on youtube! It really made a difference for my project with a 14 years old Citroen C5. In my case a blowtoch had to be mixed in the cocktail. The ball joints treads was filled with rust, so a little shock treatment was required to crack up the rust.I can only support your philosophy of greasing ALL treads before assembly, I use molybdenum disulfide grease when high temperature is not involved. It protects against corrosion, everything comes apart nicely even after 10-15 years.

A lot of content. Problematic aspects exposed from the rest & presented in easiest way possible. That was very helpful. Thank you.

Great video simple to follow. I have a 2012 508 estate. With a “knuckle type ball joint” that I am going to attempt to change any info on that. I see most people remove the hub nut and pull out drive shaft but hoping it’s not necessary. Nice video !

Top man I have been looking everywhere for this. Did it once b4 and had to take the whole hub of take to my local garage and came back the shaft popped out and oil everywhere. Also the ratchet strap is a clever idea as well never thought of that and using the wheel studs. Thanks very much

Thanks for the video. Very simply explained and not too much time wasted leading in. Great idea to lay out all the stuff needed. Very clear to see & good angle during video. I will be working on my old 306, but thought I would check this out.

Thank you many, many times. Your instructions will be saving me a lot of trouble.

Thanks for this video! Very helpful for those of us who don't want to be ripped off by our mechanic.

Thanks bro the way grunted as you took the strain has fully prepared me for this endeavour.. I gotto replace two on an x reg citroen saxo i already successfully replaced two rotten drive shafts..Its gonna be a yarn..

I did very similar with the ratchet strap, but I put it further up around the shock absorber and then round the subframe mount. I too had the problem where the whole assembly just wanted to turn and pull the drive shaft out the box. The ratchet strap method works well.

Cracking vid thank you for taking the time to post

Thanks for putting the time in to make these vids.

Very informative! Thanks for taking the time and trouble to do this.

thanks so much it was very use full video now i know how to do it by my self

Well done Good Job ✌from England🇬🇧

Gordon, great videos thank u

Thanks for the video. It was a great help to me.

I find very easy way to unscrew this joint off with flat wrench and hammer. I done this with my Xantia. Wrench must be tightened with shims and original nut. Just hitting the wrench with the hammer helps unscrew it very fast. Off course I used same tool wit 4 tooth. Similarly to you I used first time long steel bar. But second time just hammer.

I am missing good straps so I just clamped another steel bar to the brake disc so I had two long levers, both pushing the opposite direction when untightening.. Did both balljoints at once on my Xantia.. both heat shields were missing and the right balljoint was looking good, replaced 4 years ago so maybe I will not put any heat shields on. Otherwise I can just clamp piece of sheetmetal around like the Honed heat shield available online.. But I believe it could be OK without any. Thanks!

That's a great video thanks for it.. I am having a issue separating the ball joint on my 307.. the assembly is similar to yours but the ball joint seperator I am using seems to have a small center bit.. I think I need a wider one.. could you tell me which one you are using or the measurement on the one you are using?

Thank you very much.- Great video. I'd do it myself, but I don't have the necessary tools.

Great vid! Can you tell me the name of the tools to tighten up the ball joint to the suspension arm? the one that needs the 35ml deep socket as I am in desperate need for one. Thanks

Really informative Video! Thank you :)

Great Vid and very informative...would have like to have seen the way you put on the sportive strapping.

Sehr gut gemacht.Respekt.Gruß aus Deutschland.

very good video very good use off cooper greace its brill stuff, i like the way you use your rachet strap very clever i have a Citroen c15 van when i go over a ramp the front of the van makes a sqelshing sound not sure if its shocks or bushins any ides what it could be many thanks Stephen

Hi Gordon, the heat shield is readily available from dealerships, part number 3623.06, £4.70 each.

Excellent video well done.

The one that I had was 35mm. however there may be different makers of the tool who use a different sized socket end. I have used a 36mm but with the amount of effort required to turn it, i do like to use the correct size and a 6 sided socket rather than the 12 sided one, so it works on the flats rather than the corners.

The older xud engines were bomb proof. The 20ltr hdi are pretty good but injectors have issues

great movie, very help full thanks

Super VIDEO 👍 Pozdrawiam z POLAND 🙋‍♂️🍻

The U bit is 20mm across and 32mm deep. The jaw opening capacity, fully opened is 75mm hope that helps

Well Done very informative !!!

Do you have to lock the new lower ball joint when its in place?

well done, well explained video,

Yes, Glasgow, Scotland

Great video.

Thanx for this educational video mate

How tight for the punchers and the main bolt though the sub frame in ft lbs

Muy bueno, me sirvio mucho

Great! Thanks for this - Keep that copper grease away from rubber parts but!

If you could tell me the jaw opening capacity of your separator that would be a lot of help.

Excellent video and on the job explanation. Just to save me searching all the comments and replies, did you forget to replace the bottom heat shield when you rejoined the pivot arm?? Just wondered!

Well done...🙂👍👍👍

Good man. Your wee beauty

Thanks for an informative video with a small glitch (alas my own fault not thinking about it beforehand) When you set the tool on the ball joint, make sure the teeth gets grip on both groves otherwise it will end up like mine... outer groove? gone inner intact and yes.. the sodder is still laughing at me, have to take the whole thing down and use a gentle touch with the sledgehammer and blowtorch? or do you have a trick for this aswell? Always use greese like the perfect copper paste on bolts that do need to be removed at times, wheelbolts, balljoints etc. the aspect that torque limits are not counted for use with lubricants is a new one for me, but alas give it a slight more twist and problem solved :D

I do lightly peen the ball joint to lock it in place. However with the amount of torque you apply to put it back on I dont think it will move. Better to be safe and lock it.

I'm doing this very job on a Citroen C4 Grand Picasso (it failed the MoT on a front bottom ball joint) but mine doesn't have the notches for the special tool. It is just a 41mm hex. I've ordered the ball joint tool from a motor factor and I'm hoping it isn't one with the notches like yours otherwise I'm no further on with the job.

where do I get this special tool to screw off/on the joint? It must be a special tool and eases the work considerably!

Thanks so much mate for taking the time to post this. Can I just ask, does the bottom part of the splitter rest against the bottom of the arm itself or the end of the ball joint bolt? Cheers. Glenn.

That bottom ball joint will be due in a couple of years mate.

Excellent video, thanks a ton. Is a 1/2" square drive breaker bar sufficient for this task ? It's a bit difficult to see if its 3/4" or 1/2" in the video, and i'm worried that'll break my 1/2"

I have the ball joints to do on my 307 thanks for the heads up . Bunnybr .. i am wondering if you still have the car.

Haven't worked on a C15 so not sure what it could be.Sorry

Im trying this in sweden and I thank you for the video. When I first jacked up my peugeot 406 I only saw the knuckle and tonnes of rust. It seemed as if there was no threaded joint connected to it at all. More like a one piece. After this video at least I know there is one and I can order a new balljoint and not the whole spider. But seriously where do you get that round shaped metal adapter thing above the bar?? Is that a common tool?...Maybe it is possible to make one from a fat bolt or something

The tool that you use to losen the arm, it's the fork thingy with a bolt on the end 😂 what dimension in order to get it around the ball joint?

it's pretty useful for older cars (say 20 years and over); otherwise isn't it easier to buy used arms ?

great video! just curious, how long lasted this ball joint? or maybe the car was sold. cheers!

eurocarparts has this balljoint socket: sealy SX027

Lower Ball Joint Socket. Ebay is your best bet

Hello bunnybr did you have a link from ebay for the tool plz ?

how many mil. have that Ball joint socket

Are you sure its a 35m socket and not a 34m? 35m is just bloody awkward!

are you scottish?i would say so but strangely i can still understand you.otherwise great video thanks mate

7:45 you cut the video, ?

i disagree, the arm second hand will possably have worn ball joints, and on this car the ball joint is not on the arm itself , its in the hub. new ball joint is less than 20 euros

Zavrtnji tocka se nepodmazuju jer se u voznji odvrnu i tocak u tom slucaju odpadne u .

mine was as tight as hell all the way and same with new one a total nightmare

Pain get bull joint out can be

Putting grease on wheel nuts is debatable. I personally don't do it.

Forgot the heat shield

EX VID TKS

All this for a ball joint, only the french would make it this difficult pita job.

What a horrible design idea thank god my c3 Picasso is all attached to the arm I'm just replace the lot