Agree 5 1/2 very good all round plane😉

Rico S the 16K stone Rob is refering to is a ceramic stone, not a diamond stone.

xang72 Ceramic stone. Interesting. Sure, why not. Right. Ceramic is good. Is it cheaper? Hell, I can Google that. Thanks.

I would argue that you can polish an edge just as fine or finer with a strop charged with chromium oxide after honing between 4k and 8k grit. The electron microscope images taken of edges sharpened on 1k then polished on a strop in "The Complete Guide to Sharpening" illustrate this point well.

What many people forget about using a strop is that you will lose your straight edge. Strops are great for knives and other cutting tools, but I want my plane blade to have a straight edge so I can get flat boards with square edges.

@@RobCosmanWoodworking I respect your opinion on this and would agree with you for power stropping. I just doubt that some passes on a piece of leather on a flat backing could take my plane our of square. Especially since it is squared up on my water stones before stropping every time. The material removal rates with hand stropping are just so small. I've been proven wrong before and will check my blade before and after stropping with a straight edge to make sure.

There is a UK retailer, woodworkersworkshop.co.uk, I just got my first delivery of a WoodRiver plane

Timmy tex long horns sharpness of blade is important for the surface appearance and feel (if your blade has any knicks you’ll see it as lines on the end grain), but does not determine whether or not it will “blow out” on the end. That’s most likely a result of a failure to create a chamfer on the far side, or taking too heavy of a cut.

TheEDCchannel candle wax to reduce the friction. Rather useful thing, though.

Tuxdaddy Just a piece of canning wax to lubricate the sole. Makes pushing the plane over the wood easier, your effort is spent putting the blade through the wood. ROb

Thanks for the info .. Will have to give this a try..

NO! I never use them. It is a moral principle.

Rob's math on total angles is correct. Thinking about it further, if the material is hard, we cannot use small bevel angle. Or else the blade will chip pretty quickly.

Bruce Evans not to throw a monkey wrench into your math, but the thickness of the rule is actually .018”. Can you run it again??

@@RobCosmanWoodworking 0.25°

You are wanting to do this in a plane? I don't think you can get past TSA???

+Thomas Hanson Long unanswered question, but here goes. By putting a chamfer on the far edge you don't plane into the fibers on the edge of the wood. Those fibers would be unsupported and would likely tear out as the blade pushed them. By putting the chamfer there those edge fibers are below the surface being planed. You can also clamp some scrap to the end to support that edge if you don't want to chamfer it. Or use a shooting board.

It's not preventing it so much as containing it to the height of the chamfer, which it does by the method described by DasAlbatross.

Sharp blade, solid plane with positive contact between all the pieces.

@@RobCosmanWoodworking cheers !! I tried again today and at first the plane was just skating on top of the beech endgrain... then I readjusted the plane and pulled back the chip breaker a bit and for some reason it started cutting much better ... originally it wasnt TOO close to the edge but I pulled it back a bit more maybe now it's 2-3mm from the edge of the blade and it really made a difference ... still not taking full shavings like you are in the vid but getting there with the help of your videos , Thanks !!!

@@darrylportelli did you ever make any more progess? Trying to do the same thing here, will try pushing the chip breaker back

@@adamthewoodworker2571 yessss i finally got rob cosman type results !! I bought shapton stones but i left them in the box lool havent used them yet .... What did the trick was sharpening normally (primary bevel at 25deg with a rough method like a belt sander, then secondary bevel at 30deg with 1000 and then 2000-3000 sand paper ONLY USE A FEW STROKES, NO NEED TO SPEND A LOT HERE.... JUST 10-20 Back strokes on the 1000 and then 10-20 back strokes on the 2000-3000) .... Then what reaaaallll did the trick was STROPPING on just a piece of mdf with some regular hardware store metal polishing paste (autosol) ... Every few minutes of work i stop and i strop ... This keeps the edge reaaally fresh and it will reduce the number of sharpenings needed ... Ive gone weeks without sharpening just by honing every few minutes of work .... Also what helped is dont put the chip breaker too close to the edge like everyone says on youtube , i put it like 2-3mm from the edge and it seemed to help a lot. ... I put up a video on my facebook page a while ago planing 4/4 endgrain hard maple like butter with this method

Oh and this was with a regular stanley number 5 , not a thick blade and chipbreaker like a hock iron ....

Walmart has a $2.96 version. It won't last past the weekend but it's cheap and it is there.

Woodcrafter. Woodriv.

Lie Nielsen , Clifton...

Thanh Huynh Even LN aren't double the price. Some Clifton are that expensive, but at that point, you're buying a name.

Veritas does make a 5 1/2 jack btw. I use veritas and bedrocks/ baileys. Can't think of a reason to spend more on a tool that cannot be improved upon. I do like the brass but am not a sucker for it! Ha!!

its modeled after the old stanley bedrock planes just like lie nielsen so that is what he is comparing it to when he says that.

The Crossman .177 has a scope and is great for squirrels and possums. I have just not been able to make a plane work for varmint control.