I was going to say 'that was bad luck', but I'm afraid I can't say that with integrity.

Appreciated!

No problem!

That's very kind John, thank you.

No problem; I'm glad it was useful. Phil

I know 9 years is a long shot… But how did you get on with the SuperPro?

👍🏻👍🏻 Thanks!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thanks Jerry!

No problem. It's about the engineering as much as the material.

Im on the process of buying that whole kit for a lifted off roading truck ,but no wanting the outcome to be noisy or stiffer ride what you recommend me ?

No problem!

Well said! You still want the suspension to move on a track car. No suspension movement = no damper movement = no damping. You'll get a lot of vibration around steady state which may seem fast but not efficient (less grip).

👍🏻 No problem!!

No problem.

Russ Charlton Hats off to you if you're making your own! I've machined PU for R&D and it takes some time. Don't forget to add knurling inside otherwise you'll end up a wishbone that has a lot of stiction. Also, consider the PU you're going to use. SP have developed theirs so it has resilient properties which are crucial for proper performance and longevity. You can actually buy SuperPro is short rod sections in 80Duro which the MX-5 uses. HTH Phil

Thanks!

👍🏻👍🏻 Glad you like 'em.

Thanks very much; appreciated 👍🏻

Thank you!

No problem, sir. 👍🏻

Many thanks 😊

I think it's more about not having the right people in said Company who understand the design principles.

The car manufacturers typically use bonded rubber which has the compliance to do the job, lower NVH and have a long service life (sometimes they get this part a bit wrong). Other part sof the car require rubber if they move dynamically. I see a lot of issues with people using poly bushings where the rotation isn't linear. Spherical would be ideal in those applications, but then you increase cost and lower service life so rubber is again optimal for 99.5% of your customers (though Mazda got pretty wild with the 3rd gen RX7 having 6 sphericals that were a 30k mile service item at several hundred dollars in parts). It's a shame how SuperPro has such a limited catalog because it seems to be the only poly bushing that I would consider. A neat trick that I saw over on StudioVRM.Racing's channel was putting teflon tape around a clean crush tube in a single candy cane fashion and then applying grease and installing it into the bushing. Another option that I saw on some American company's KZfaq was a polyurethane swaybar bushing that has a Delrin insert that sits between the polyurethane and the swaybar. Unfortunately, I think they produced imperial sizes but a bit of mini lathe work could make some solutions.

I would tend to make the back better than the front first. The last think you want is a stiff front end and sloppy arse (snap-oversteer). I'm sure there's a double entendre in there somewhere.....😜

Sorry. But hopefully it shows a full picture.

26 minutes of useful and direct information with visual examples. I'll take 26 minutes of that, over the usual youtube video which consists of an 8 minute dubstep intro, followed by 30 seconds of time lapsed un-lit cell phone footage with no audio.

I'm sure he could talk for many hours including a road test and noise/vibration drive. Personally i think it was perfectly fine. - it also shows you get what you pay for, and shows you what to expect from a good product. - 30 minutes isnt a long time

Project Miata Matt. I'm sorry to hear that; clearly something is not right. Can you tell me what grease you used? The older type was in a flat clear plastic wrapper and dried to leave to dry lubricant and was not up to the job. The new silicon stuff (in a silver tube) remains fluid. Let me have some further information and I'll point you in the right direction. Ta Phil

hi phil, thanks very much for the reply, it came with the stuff in a metalic wrapper. i used plenty of it but guess it has dried out, is there a good type of grease to use when relubing them all? i presume im going to have to remove them all again, i had to use a jack to get them to move up and down, they dont squeek at all just hardly move, rather frustrating after all the money spent, i couldnt find standard replacements anywhere . kind of wish i left it alone now but my oem ones had had it Thanks again Matt

www.amazon.com/CRC-SL3121-Marine-Trailer-Bearing/dp/B00BGRUTRA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1494412560&sr=8-17&keywords=marine%2Bgrease&th=1

Thank you!

Grease is an integral part, and I'd be lying to suggest they are zero maintenance. However, the design reduces the need to re-grease frequently.

I don't I'm afraid. However, the channel you describe is called a bullet groove which runs the length of the bushing. As the suspension components load and unload the bushings will move (compress) and this action will deform the groove and you will find any grease gets ejected from the ends over time. In other words, it's a useless design to retain grease, but very cheap to manufacture as it can be created with the initial casting! A knurl on the other hand has to be cut in a second operation. HTH

+SportDriveSuspension thanks

No problem 👍🏻

Nope ;o)

They will indeed. To reduce NVH you need to have isolating properties and in a suspension linkage that requires movement. The SuperPro bushes not only allow free rotation but the will also move as the suspension loads. The performance comes from the way they load and unload in a linear and damped manner. Phil

It's down to a few things. Certainly cost andNVH (rubber is certainly considered better) feature highly. You want the arm to articulate 'friction-free' around the pivot point, but resist lateral loading to help maintain alignment under load. Does one care about NVH/extra maintenance on a 'track car'? Probably not, so fit spherical bearings if you can afford it.

Thank you! If you watch from 5m38s, I investigate the difference between SuperPro's knurling compared to the Powerflex's smooth bore. You'll notice when both are packed with grease, the Powerflex bush was wiped clean once the crush tube is inserted. Remember, that when the bush is installed into the wishbone housing, the bearing clearance is even tighter and no noticible amount of any grease would remain. If you stop the video at 7m28s, you'll notice some 'damage' inside the Powerflex bush. This is because it's been running dry (even though it was originally installed with their recommended grease) and heated due to excessive friction. The bush is sees constant loadings/unloadings, and this will eject any grease quite quickly. I agree with you regarding the metal crush tube needs to remaining corrosion free. I like the fact Powerflex use stainless steel here, and I would like to see SuperPro do the same. I believe that the issue with SuperPro is small though, due to it running in a permanently greased environment.

Why do you say that might be a bit of a challenge to get that torque wrench in there with the tire and wheel right in the way. And they dang sure didnt do that on the assembly line when the car was built. That would be like torquing the head bolts while the engine is running

That's true of rubber bushings, but these are technically bearings and therefore does not apply. You can bolt up and rotate it's full range of motion with little effort.

daniel0663 Well it's not for track use. It's on a Ford Mondeo MK3 ST220 and i was going to use the adjustable lower arm bushings that can be adjusted for correct tracking. Mainly everyday road use - club meets etc. I know the rear arm bushings need changing and the fronts - i want to get a firmer ride without compromising comfort and more noise. That's why i have been looking at links and videos to gain more insight as to which is best. It seems Superflex are superior from your video but the price will be high for sure. Maybe I'll just need to poly certain bushings?

I couldn't say. If the compound hasn't changed then I believe the issue would still be apparent.

I have no direct knowledge of Landies I'm afraid. Speak to SuperPro directly.

I think it's just attention to detail rather than having material spilling out over the bearing surface. A bit like going to the beach un-shaved. Doesn't make a difference, but there's a neater, more attractive solution 🤣

Contact a specialist supplier for your make/model.

There is no room to do that. However, all that needed done was to clean corrosion off and grease the mounting points the same as he did with the replacement bushings. In other words the only problem was a piss poor installation of the prior bushings. NO new bushings were needed nor did they have any benefit. He just needed a piece of sandpaper and a couple ounces of silicone grease.

When these were first fitted, no they didn't squeak. Over time though (c.4-5 years) some of the bushes absorbed moisture and expanded which lead to us investigating them fully (the worst culprit was the front lower bush that, when parked on the customers' drive, was in a damper environment being up against a wall). This isn't a biased video, IMO. I have an open mind on most things but it really shows how a product performs over a length of time (to be fair to PowerFlex I don't know whether they have changed their compound since these were made; they may have done). There are some clear advantages of SuperPro though, putting aside the squeaking bushes. If you look at 5min38sec, you can see how the knurling makes the SuperPro bush have far less friction. If you pause at the close up of the internal shot of the PF bush, you may be able to see some friction 'burns' due to the fact that the bush is essentially running dry. I also need a lot less force to push the SuperPro bush down the crush tube at 8mins onward. Remember, once these bushes are installed they are a little tighter around the crush tube which will exacerbate any friction issues. I like that PF use stainless crush tubes vs. the coated steel on SuperPro. With their new silicon based grease, there shouldn't be an issue with corrosion as the tube will be running lubricated all the time. I hope that's answered your question.

why dont you point out in the video that the powerflex bushes may be out of size spec due to water absorption.

Have you removed the tube? The tube is inserted once the bushing is installed. You have to use a vice for the lower ones. Grease the end to help. You kinda have to grab the arm and bushing as you wind in the vice to keep it centred. A bit tricky, but straightforward once you get the first one done. 👍🏻

@@SportDriveSuspension I have the NC Bushings and they just bunch up before they go into the A-arm due to the significant lip on the end. I have changed out NA bushings with no issue. If I could post pictures I could show you the problems.

May be not. Check with SP directly.

Have a look at their dealer network page: www.superpro.com.au/where-to-buy/dealer-distributor-and-fitter-locator

IIRC SPF5127KIT (US-Miata, UK-MX-5 1990-2005, although ARB sizes differ).

OCD Pedant.

hawk mickler powerflex

A poorly presented point that ignores the small difference in nvh of modern pu designs from SuperPro.

@@Dr.IanPlect Poly for road cars ain't good They don't absorb road shocks.There is a reason for rubber OEM bushes.Competition cars yes , road cars no. If it quacks like a duck.

@@amraceway I disagree.

@@Dr.IanPlect Feel free to. Poly is not good for older cars, makes them squeak like shit as they transfer forces through their aging bodies. Again for track use only.

@@amraceway And again, I'm specifically talking Super Pro with their superior qualities.

I don't have any experience with ProThane I'm afraid. But look out for engineering cues and search for longevity reviews on Forums (squeaking/binding etc.).

That's correct. The crush tube is always going to be the correct length as it has to fit inside a rigid housing. The material has absorbed a load of moisture and swelled.

Most of that was underseal that was flaking off. Inside the housing it is recommended that you clean and prepare the surface thoroughly and finish with a thin coat of something like POR15. After that everything is liberally greased with the grease supplied by SuperPro.