Enjoy your vids, Paul, they're very informative. Do me a favor and keep making them -- by eliminating the chance of being crushed by the car! you make me nervous just watching when you yank on bolts and the whole car's wobbling on that scissor jack...

Thank you for a great video. it took the mystery out of the process. I especially enjoyed all the sound effects while you were working. Hammers, air-guns, trucks coming and going, squealing brakes, dogs barking, a cat meowing, the only thing missing was a siren and sea-gulls.

Hi, I had general knocking under the car, oddly only when cold, I didn't have any crunching, but for the cost and price in made sense to me to just change everything, thanks for watching and support :)

Great video, thanks, watched it and then changed mine - dead easy after seeing how you did it!

Interesting video as usual with Paul. For those who (in doing this work) have noticed colors on the coil spring and on the shock absorber, here is the meaning. Color on top of spring: indicates required coil plate thickness through color markings on upper section of coil spring: White line = 3.0 mm spring plate (996 343 511 00) ; Green line = 6,5 mm spring plate (996 343 511 01). Color on the bottom of the spring: indicates spring rates and lenghts by line markings on the lower section of the spring. blue/yellow (1997 - 2004) 5-speed manual blue/white (1997 - 2004) 5-speed automatic red/brown (1997 - 2002) 5-speed manual / Sport yellow/brown (2003 - 2004) 5-speed manual / Sport red/white (1997 - 2002) 5-speed automatic / Sport yellow/white (2003 - 2004) 5-speed automatic / Sport violet/yellow (2000 -2004) S / 6-speed manual violet/white (2000 - 2004) S / 5-speed automatic orange/brown (2000 - 2004) S / 6-speed manual / Sport orange/white (2000 - 2004) S / 5-speed automatic / Sport 1999 = 986 343 531 01(front) 986 333 531 04(rear) Color on strut body: Blue dot = standard suspension; Red dot = sport suspension.

Thanks for another informative video paul

Paul i really enjoy watching your videos. Although i have a Caymen S, the vast majority of your videos are applicable to it and have taught me a lot. Keep up the good work. Mick. N/Ireland

Thanks Paul. Ive done a bit of reading online to suggest that i need to change my fork arms aswell. Are you able to describe the sound you were getting which lead to the fork arms being replaced? For me it is the rear end which is making a knock/crunch noise when going over bumpy ground such as cobblestones at low speeds.

thanks for the video.

Thanks Paul will be doing this both side this week.

Hi Paul, thanks for the video, I enjoyed it. What are the symptoms for a bad "tuning fork" lower control arm? AND I have to say, you made me nervous working under the car with no wheel chocks and only a scissor jack :o No good!

Security! If your car falls, you're screwed!

yes you need to chock and put axle stands too but no torque wrench... not good Paul

Interesting videos Paul, thanks for taking the time and effort to make them. Just wondered how the Meyle parts are holding up. I need some coffin arms and am wondering where to buy.

Hi Paul I will be doing this job so very informative, just a point did you just use a scissor jack? i don't see any other form of support. Even when I use axle stands If the wheel is off I put it under the car just in case the worst happens

Hi PaulI have a 2003 Boxster S and have a knocking when going over painted lines and small unevenness in the road. I have replaed all of the rear lower control links and drop links as well as anti roll bar bushings. I bought all of my spares from Eurocarparts in the UK. I need the lower front control arms but neither Eurocarparts nor GSF can supply these. Could you please let me know where you purchased all of your spares please. Keep up the good work.Andy

Does the tuning fork need suspension pre load before adjusting to final torque ?

Hi Paul, I have a 1998 3.4 liter boxster. I have been noticing a little wobble coming from the front suspension and was thinking of doing the same "freshen up" job you did. My big question is... can you please tell me how the car felt and drove after doing all this work and investment? Would appreciate any feedback and if you thought this investment/maintenance accomplished what you hoped it would. Thanks for sharing with us your maintenance projects!

Did you get an IMS bearing retrofit or do you just have it switched out?

Your termite rotor is almost the same as on my daughter's Porsche 959 :o) Almost the same thing that is bad on her car. What were the torque specs on those bolts? Nice camera angles as well as sharing us the useful video tips.

hi Paul. I've just brought a 2001 2.7 . in your experience have u heard of a start up rattle from motor only about two seconds. people say it's normal just a bit worried done oil change car runs great any advice cheers Paul

Nice one Paul can I ask where you get all of your parts ?

Paul..great video...next time slide the tire under the car...if jack fails...car wont fall on you.

Mechanics. The screw threads must always be greased to prevent oxidation.

What torque specs!

Please please use something more than just that scissor jack to support the car, they may be out of shot but I cant see any axial stands or additional support. If that car was to fall it would have no problems killing you.

Please tell me you didn't get under the car with only that flimsy scissor jack holding it up! Even just reaching under the car without using proper jack stands is insane.