I am glad this was helpful to you

I appreciate you

Thank you, hope it was helpful

@@Brian_the_repair_guy My uploader hose broke and I need to replace it. I tried to find replacement hose but can’t find one that fits. What hose did you clamp on yours with the hose clamps? Does it stand up to the pressures?

@@JakeRice-qu4rm the unloader hose Does not need to be high pressure. A standard reinforced hose with the correct inside diameter. Lowes or Home Depot will have it.

😅 pop lo😅😅😅

Hope it helps

Without the trigger pulled. If you pull the trigger and set the pressure, your pressure will increase once the trigger is released. Could be too high and stall the engine

Yes, this model has the unloader built in. I will not give a time frame on how long the pump can run without using the wand before overheating. There are too many variables to consider to give an accurate time frame. I don't like more than about 2 minutes max. I have a video that explains this and shows how hot and how fast they heat up.

@@Brian_the_repair_guy Thanks, Brian. I watched that video. Keep up the great videos.

@@CTSCAPER thank you, hope they help

No, they do not

The gauge shows 3000 on a 5000 psi machine and it sounds like the engine is under a heavy load? What size engine and where is the gauge located?

Hope it helps

I can not speak for all bolt on unloaders. In my experience, I have never seen a bolt on that has the option to connect a return hose. Just the external unloader

@@Brian_the_repair_guy thanks so much

You can take the unloader hose loose from the inlet side. Install a plug where the hose connected. Run the hose to your tank. Replace the thermal dump with another plug

What pressure are you running? Disconnect the bypass hose from the unloader and run it without pulling the trigger. Does water come out of the unloader?

Sorry I missed this request. I will make a video this week to show how it is done.

@@Brian_the_repair_guy yes please :)

If you have no water coming out of the pressure side, then most likely you have a clog just behind the quick connect fitting. Remove the fitting and ensure the bullet shaped valve is clean of debris

You should have an increase and decrease with the unloader. Catch me on Facebook at Bruan Shumack the repair guy and I can better help you same background as KZfaq

Are you asking about the water hose inlet for the pump?

@@Brian_the_repair_guy yes i am, ive got an external bypass and cannot find another brass bit to save my life

@@mercenary1485 you are installing an external unloader and you need the water inlet? I will get you a part number and source

@@mercenary1485 www.watercannon.com/product/1125/clear-inlet-filter-flow-thru-34-in-fght-inlet-12-in-male-out-8gpm This is the part. It has a filter. You can get it without the filter. You will also need a barb, size based on the return hose. They can help you with that part also

Can you find me on Facebook. There will be a lot of back and forth on this one. Use my name from YT to find me

The engine will dictate the maximum psi. The engine will shut down with pressure too high. You can use any unloader that will match the bolt pattern on the head

Are you asking can you bypass to a buffer tank or are you asking why is it not going to the tank

Your turbo tip and the red tip (0 degree) will give you the highest pressure. I set the pressure with those. They should give you closest to the maximum pelressure on the machine.

@@Brian_the_repair_guy Thanks Brain. i did the same, i was told that i should chooose orfice correctly based on GPM and PSI. mine is 3000 psi with 2.5 gpm that comes to 3.0 orfice.. does orfice is super imporatnt.. i guess so.

@@sivucit yes, orifice size makes a big difference. Must be correct to the pump

Yes, just plug the hole at the input return

There are "fixed" style unloaders, they do not adjust. If yours is adjustable, then it may be frozen. You can purchase a pressure relief valve that will make starting easier

You can order on line at watercannon.com or many Sherwin Williams stores have access to the unloader

Thank you

I am sorry. That one is out of my wheel house

If the unloader is built on to the head, no. If the unloader is a bolt on style, yes.

Short answer is yes you can change the pump. Long answer is yes you can but it will be a bit costly to do so.

I am going to start in this business and I get carried away by the videos on KZfaq and I bought this Simpson 4200 PSI belt drive 4.0 GPM machine without knowing, I had that pump now I don't know what to do, I know that the bypass is important, and what could you recommend? to be able to bypass that machine, or is it to change the pump or the equipment (W/P)

@@javierruiz8318 honestly, there isn't much you can do to that pump in order to set up an external bypass. If the external is what you want, I like them very much, I would suggest replacing the pump. It will be pricey. In fact, you may look at purchasing another washer altogether and use the current unit as a back up. MiTM makes a great belt drive with Honda engine and General pump with external. Most cost effective is to replace pump. Make sure the replacement will bolt to the frame without mods and the pump is fully plumbed

Thank you very much Mr. Brian for the information and I will take your suggestions as law Thank you. And by the way I have learned a lot from your videos, they are very precise.

@@javierruiz8318 I am very glad to help

Yes, it is very easy to do. You would need a water hose fitting, one like you see in the video is good. Has a screen filter that is easily removed for cleaning and a male nipple to connect the external to the head.

my EZ-CLEAN had the banjo style on it, I removed it 2 yrs ago and went with the external, I even added a ball valve on the pump to open up to relieve water pressure on the pump for easy starting. my EZ-CLEAN is a whole different machine now ..

@@kenwimmer3936 I much prefer the external unloaders over bolt on, the valve is a good touch. I usually reccomend them on the bigger machines.

Good video thanks. I just bought a ar pump 4000psi 4gpm, what could cause my unit to loose pressure while you are using it intermittently. Is a ar pump a good pump? I bought it for the gx390

If the unloader is built in, meaning it can not physically be removed from the head for total replacement, then no you can not plumbed in.

My first thought is the valve is stuck. Even though they are new, a piece of trash could be stuck in one of the valves

@@Brian_the_repair_guy one more point...the pressure gauge drops to zero.. but water pressure hose pressure stays the same

@@MrJS0972 your high pressure gauge typically will not show the water pressure from the hose when the valves have a problem. That pressure difference is too low for that gauge

That is the thermal dump. You can plug it, but I don't really reccomend that. If it is 1/4" it is MiTM part number 22-0408 or watercannon.com part number is 20.0069 if it is not 1/4" then the part numbers are different

@@Brian_the_repair_guy thanks 😊 it is bigger than 1/4". But what could happen if I plug it?

@@erinsonduran6663 when using the machine, do not let it run for more than a minute or 2 with out pulling the trigger. This let's the hot water out to prevent over heating.

@@Brian_the_repair_guy ok 👍 thanks a lot for your help. Already ordered

If your unloader is a bolt on style like this, you can replace it with a remote style unloader with the bypass hose

I seen a guy hooked an external unloader into the box store u mention n seem to work

@@SuperDoeboy77 some of the pumps on a box store pressure washer have bolt on style unloaders. This would allow you to safely replace it with an external bypass. If the unloader in not removable, I would be hard pressed to see how it could be replaced safely

The engines on these machine will only allow the pressure to rise so much before the engine stalls. The pumps are typically rated for 3 times their stated pressure. The engines can't come close to this, so they stall. If a fitting or gasket were to fail, it would be due to a worn or damaged part

@@Brian_the_repair_guy I borrowed a neighbors Westinghouse 3200psi washer today, and immediately, something was wrong with it. Would start right up, but within 2-3 seconds it would load right up and stall the engine. If you held the trigger on the wand, it would run all day, but as soon as you released it, engine would stall right out. It has a different style of unloader, it's held in with a U shaped clip. There's no knob on it, just a nut to adjust how much the spring is compressed. I pulled that out, to visually inspect it, and everything looked clean and practically brand new. I put a dab of grease on the o-rings, and put it back together. Started it up to test, immediately loaded up the engine, only this time, it built enough pressure before it stalled, to completely force the plastic hose connector off the wand, stripping the threads entirely off. The hose smacked me in the leg, and left a very significant bruise. I'm convinced something is wrong with the unloader, but I'm hesitant to try any more troubleshooting. Obviously this thing was capable of building some pretty significant pressure, not sure I want to find out what the next weak point is. Any thoughts or ideas?

@@ericcheeseman8144 you are definitely getting far too much pressure. When the trigger is pulled, the pump is in effect leaking, so it can't build but just so much pressure. When the trigger is released, the pressure builds and the unloader dumps off to the low pressure side to prevent excessive pressure. When the unloader fails, or is set too high, the pressure builds until the engine stalls or failure of a part. At this point, I would not suggest any other work being done except by a certified shop. The pump has been stressed and should be thoroughly checked. I don't feel the excessive pressure was do to the user, it just happened to fail at that time.

@@Brian_the_repair_guy Thanks for the reply. They hadn't used it since last year....I'm guessing it got put away wet, and freezing temps in winter affected the unloader. Either way, I'll be calling a local small engine shop in the morning. I'd probably investigate further, but it's not mine, and I'd prefer not to make anything worse lol.

If you have a bolt on unloader, then you can replace it with an external bypass.

Yes. You will need to plug the intake fitting on the low pressure side

ok thanks..

The oumos can be adjusted up or down with the unloader. Specific target pressures will vary by pump. Adjust it down and see what you get. Use a gauge

I do not live in California. It would cost you way to much just to travel to me. What is the problem you are having, maybe we can figure it out and you can order your parts and repair yourself

@@Brian_the_repair_guy oh,i see. My by pass valve is leaking water all over the place,it has a little whole,just by the outer o ring,and it started to leak the water from ther,istead of goig back to the pump

@@Marlonhernandez777 can you post a video?

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jrChm69ms5vPmZ8.html

@@Brian_the_repair_guy there's the vid

In most setups yes. If you find me in Facebook and send pictures I can tell for sure

I agree, the pressure should be set with a gauge. In a perfect world it would happen. In most situations, guys are not going to purchase a high pressure gauge to set the unloader one or 2 times in the life of the machine. So, I explain how to set these without a gauge. You wouldn't want to set the gauge based on the lowest rated accessories. Doing this would prevent the higher rated accessories from working properly. You want the pressure set as high as the engine and pump will safely operate. Adjust down for the lower pressure accessories

There are times I need prayer before I start on these machines

Difficult question to give an answer on without seeing it. I do not know the set up that you have. Do you have a pressure relief for easy start?

A radiator is defined as "1.a thing that radiates or emits light, heat or sound." Since the rubber allows the transfer of heat into the ambient air, the hose qualifies as a radiator. If you disagree with the technical definition, feel free to elaborate

@@Brian_the_repair_guy This hose will emit 2-3% of heat from pump recirculating water at full speed, you get people wrong saying 1 ft of rubber makes any difference.

@@krzysiek524 do you have supporting evidence or data that shows a 1-2% radiation rate?

​@@Brian_the_repair_guy Yes i do, brass is at least 400 times more heat conductive than NBR/EPDM rubber. Typical triplex pump running on 3400 RPM will consume 15-20% of power on pure friction converted to heat. During bypass pressure is lower so are the friction losses, about 10% of power and also all the heat from thermal conductivity of shaft, pump flange, heat radiated from engine and also hot air cooling engine. By adding 1ft of rubber hose you add thermal capcity for few seconds but ZERO thermal conductivity to air. For 10kW pump you would have to dump 1,2 to 1,5kW, in stagnant air heat exchange from copper tube with water is ~250W per square meter with 5*C dT. To fully emit that power u need 5m2 of copper surface, good luck with that. Remember when pump is not at bypass its fully cooled by water, when cooling stops all that heat builds up in oil, crankshafts, plungers up to the head.

@@krzysiek524 I am not arguing that there are better heat conductors. In a standard bolt on, you have less than one inch of low pressure transition before the water is reintroduced to the pump. Very little heat dissipation occurs in that one inch. The 16" of hose from the unloader to the reintroduction into the pump allows more time for the water to cool. As I explain in the video, some reduction is better than none. The hose stills acts as a radiator. Take note to number 2 reason for an external bypass versus a bolt on or banjo style. www.pressurewashersonline.com/pages/why-external-unloader-valve