2:pm an excellent explanation. Leaves no question unanswered.😊

Didn’t even have to watch the video thank you for your comment

this, thank you

I actually did think of hammer drills when I looked up this video! So thank you.

Excellent

It the machinist world, called peck drilling. Should be used in all drilling operations.

"finish your hole" Hubba hubba!

"ya"

I’ve had this issue a couple of times cutting holes to run Romex through or a 4.5 inch for duct work or even a 6inch cutout attachment. It messed up my wrist a couple of times. I’ve tried different settings and I’m using the dewalt hammer drill xr no idea if there’s a way to fix this

Isn't that why the chuck is there? I mean the impact doesn't have a break like the chuck gives you. So if your nearing the end it will run and twist where as a driver will start to rattle

Rookie 😂

That’s what she said…😂

If you had to stop your operation due to the battery overheating, it’s the manufacturers fault! Batteries are designed to be able to deliver ~20% more current than your machines draw during loaded operation. This 1/5 buffer margin on top prevents thermal shutdown of your battery. If you run into thermal shutdown regularly, it‘s a clear sign that the buffer margin has been decreased by the manufacturer in order to decrease cost by a small amount but decrease its lifetime significantly! Now regular usage will damage batteries much more than usual, hence performing exponentially worse with time and forcing you to buy a new one in less time than otherwise possible, had the buffer been left around those 20% to equalize any battery aging effects. TI’s Batteries (Ryobi, Milwaukee, AEG,…) are designed in a proper way with enough buffer to be able to power all their different tools over the long run. Many more Brands are properly designing their batteries, please feel free to add those ones below!

Correct. However I use the crap out of my power tools every day, but haven’t ran into this from typical use though. For me it’s usually due to environmental/ambient temperature, and that’s only happened to me in the winter months (I’m sure others do as well, but Milwaukee chargers will blink certain led’s if battery is too cold/too hot and waits to begin charging sequence).

Most battery chargers at least the Milwaukee won’t allow the battery to charge if it’s too hot. It lets it cool down first so the customer never has to think about this. Get with the times

Exactly i find an impact driver used on wood will sometimes strip the wood when it reaches the full depth it just spins around meaning it has lost most of its holding power. In the same situation just using a drill driver it can easily bury the screw right in below the surface without stripping the wood. I only ever use the impact for putting in metal screws screwing into metal.

Good call!

Glad we could help! And we appreciate you for watching! 😄

You were sheet metal? Im metals tech.

You would appreciate the old school way they use to set, hit, twist, hit...repeat... concrete chisels to bore holes before powered rotary hammers.

These "impact drivers" are a different thing. They have no downward force other than what you apply with your arm. I totally know what you are talking about though, and have one for stripped out screws too. The thing you used is more for removing screws/bolts. Impact drivers are more for forcing screws to turn into materials by tapping them in a rotational direction.

@@Vincerama I don’t know any power tool that have a downward force to supposedly drive a screw in automatically! But that would be super cool and beneficial if some company has the technology to produce it to the tool market in today’s time!

Never too late! You can check out some of our other best impact driver videos to see which one best fits your needs. Thanks for watching!

You won't want it after you use it. Maybe for deck work but for general home improvement tasks...I never use my impact driver.

Glad we could help, thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

There are impact drivers & drill drivers… an “impact drill” does not exist in today’s market.

A bosch 12v pocket size impact driver? You'd have more luck bashing the screw in with your forehead 🤣

Yep

That's not the best choice. Get a hammer drill. It hammers into the concrete, breaking the little rocks the drill runs into.

You can but it wont be as fast and powerfull as an hamerdrill

Use a glassdrill for ceramic ! Get perfect rond hole’s

Yes. If you get one strong enough, you can loosen the rim nuts on your wheels. Some of them are as powerful as air pressure ones, which is great for when there is no compressor around.

A mains powered hammer drill is always best for brick and concrete, but if you don't have mains power second best is cordless drill with hammer drill function imo.

Safety squints engaged!

Thanks Norm!

No, we'd definitely go with a hammer drill for drilling in concrete.

Not really. For concrete you need a hammer drill. The hammer drill works by moving the drill bit forward/backward really fast, replicating the hammer motion similar to using a hand hammer on a nail. On an impact driver, the hammer motion rotates in the same direction the bit is turning, so the bit does not move forward/backward.

You might be thinking of a compact ratchet wrench.. But if you have to decide between impact driver and drill, DEFINITELY use the former. As the guy in this video mentions, power is proportional to speed. Since you don't need a lot of torque to remove oil pan bolts, you can just use the slow mode on the impact wrench to get it off nicely. Either way, I'd suggest using a hand wrench because battery powered stuff is the best way to strip bolts.

Milwaukee makes an electric screwdriver drill, it’s around $100 at Home Depot, and it has a clutch system on it, so you can set “torque” you want and once it reaches it, the clutch will slip so you can’t over tighten

Yes

As that’s not what he said so I don’t see your point. He said (after the hex statement) specifically designed for ………” back to referencing the drill it’s self. The hex shank on a drill enables one to see that’s it’s OK to use in an impact and will take the additional forces. What’s to understand here? Bob England

Impact drivers do not have a clutch mechanism, that's reserved for drills and hammer drills.

Nope. Hammer drills, as the name suggest, hammer the drill bit in forwards to push against the material being drilled into. If you do that with a screw you are going to be pushing the threads against the material they are trying to grip, compromising the hold the screw has in the wood. Impacts ‘hammer’ sideways, helping the screw rotate, not push forward.

Did you not listen!

Impact drivers aren’t just hype. They deliver higher torque with percussive blows, making it easier to drive screws into tough materials. They reduce cam-out, user fatigue, and speed up heavy-duty tasks. If your compact drill works for your projects, that’s great, but an impact driver can be a valuable tool for tougher jobs.

Everything you can do with your impact driver i for sure can do with a good Bosch compact drill in the hammer function except losening lug nuts, which provides tough torque , too and it never fatigues me. What do you consider tough Material?