Thanks for the info, Wayne! That's good to know. It's odd that Honda stated not to exceed the maximum setting while also not specifying what the maximum is in the owner's manual. I ordered my factory service manual, but haven't received it yet. Cheers! 👍 --QM

Rebel gang bb I had to get the service manual too because there is nothing online

🤣👍 Them and me both! I was really hoping that something didn't snap or come unseated on that first crank-up! The official service manual states that there are only 18 adjustment clicks on the rear shocks. Maybe I was spinning on the 19-20 clicks... dunno? Other owners have mentioned that they were able to do 18-20 and then the adjuster stopped (wouldn't rotate any further). The adjustment range should definitely be listed in the owner's manual because that is a normal (and obviously necessary) procedure for normal operation of this bike. Cheers! 👍 --QM

@@QuasiMotard I'm hoping so. I'm sitting 240lbs with gear on. This would be a killer flaw on such a good bike. Wild west moto or V1 moto? Who's got better people?

I am 200LBS and adjusted my preload to a 10. Using the excellent zip tie test I took the bike out for a little spin on normal, paved roads. I did not hit any potholes or speed bumps and the zip tie ended up about 1CM from the bump stop. I might want to go up to an 11 or 12 if I go on bumpier roads or put on the saddle bags but I’m close. I certainly don’t want anything less than a 10. I purchased the spanner wrench from my local Cycle Gear shop. It’s a little big but it did the job. I hope this helps others who might want to get a close setting right from the start.

@@tangysquid Thanks for the feedback, and I'm glad you found a good setting on your Rebel! In my follow-up video ( kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y5mjidd6m5_Nqnk.html ), I cranked up the rear preload 20 clicks just to see where it stopped (Honda omitted that fun fact from the owner's manual). I ended up setting my rear shocks at #7, and I bumped up the front preload about 1/2 turn clockwise to balance it out. So far, that has worked well for my 170-pound riding weight. I'm still surprised that Honda only set these bikes at #3 out of 20! Aren't North American (esp. USA) owners considered to be "fat" and heavy compared to the typical Asian markets? C'mon, Honda... our hefty buns need more preload! 🤣👍 --QM

Thanks for the feedback, Michael! I've used the sandwich bag trick for decades on fancy anodized fasteners (e.g., fuel line AN fittings & other racing bits), but I've never needed to use it for shock collars. The Rebel 1100 is the first bike that I've owned with black anodized coatings on the suspension bits. I'm searching for some Delrin or Teflon-coated spanners now... hopefully something that I can keep under the seat for adjustments on the road (e.g., luggage or passenger preload adjustment). Cheers! 👍 --QM

It's like those old State Farm insurance commercials: "We know a thing or two, because we've seen a thing or two!" In my case, it's more like: "... because I've broken a thing or two!" 🤣👍 --QM

Yep, the Rebel's rear shocks are severely under-damped, so we need to fight that with spring preload to prevent bottoming-out. The factory setting of 3 clicks (out of 18) is way too soft for most American riders. I set the rear preload at 8 clicks, and that seems to work well for my ~170 pound riding weight. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

I actually might try that, or plasti-dip.

Thanks for the feedback, Eric! That's great info on the rear shocks! Honda really should have included that info in the owner's manual because that's a normal operational adjustment for any (every) rider. I'm looking into bar risers or possibly different bars for my Rebel to give me a little more rearward reach. I found these on Webike Japan, and they specify that they work with the OEM cables: japan.webike.net/products/24732617.html . The change is listed as +50mm (2") rearward and +15mm (0.6") taller. That's almost exactly what I need for a more comfortable ride with my short arms. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

It should be your sign when the bike is sold with only 1 seat that it's a solo bike

Thanks, George! I'm glad you enjoyed it, and I hope the videos are useful. Cheers! 👍 --QM

I haven't upgraded my Rebel's rear shocks yet, so I don't have any educated opinions. I have used Öhlins ( www.ohlinsusa.com/ ) on previous bikes, and I've heard very good reviews of Burly Brand ( www.burlybrand.com/category/1/suspension ). My preference would be the Öhlins S36 Blackline shocks for the rear ( similar to these: www.ohlinsusa.com/suspension-products/harley-s36-blackline-twin-shocks ), and the NIX-22/NIX-30 fork cartridges for the front ( www.ohlinsusa.com/suspension-products/street-nix-22-cartridge-kit ). That front and rear set will be quite expensive, but I think they would completely transform the bike's handling. Cheers! 👍 --QM

Howdy, neighbor, and congrats on your Rebel 1100! I've had good luck with my Rebel set at #8-9 on the rear shocks and about 3/4 turn (clockwise) added front preload. The ride firmed up a bit, but it isn't overly harsh. I don't experience the violent bottoming-out over highway ripples and pavement seams like I did with the factory settings. 😉👍 --QM

The Showa shocks on the Rebel just don't have enough compression damping, so we're fighting that with spring preload. I will probably replace my rear shocks later this year with a set of Öhlins or Burly shocks that are damped better (fully-adjustable if possible). When you are doing the zip-tie tests, remember that you are looking for full-compression over "normal" road surfaces. You want to get the full stroke out of the suspension so you aren't making the ride overly harsh. It's not uncommon for the shocks to bottom-out, but that shouldn't be the norm... it should only happen under extreme conditions (e.g., potholes, large dips at high speed, railroad tracks, etc). Higher quality shocks that have adjustable damping will certainly be our cure. Cheers! 👍 --QM

Thanks for the feedback! I haven't noticed any difference in power, so it doesn't seem to be running lean. I'm still waiting for DynoJet or other tuners to release their products for the Rebel 1100. When those are available, I'll purchase one and rent some dyno time to tune the bike properly. Otherwise, I'll get an auto-tune kit with a wideband O2 sensor and let it tune itself while I ride. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

Those RAM balls are here: amzn.to/3uz7640. I screwed those into my original mirror mounts because I'm using bar-ends mirrors (CRG Hindsight LS: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i51ymsqqmsrNkYE.html ). If you're still using the factory mirrors and need a RAM mount, then try these under the mirror stems: RAM Mounts RAM-B-272U 9mm Angled Bolt Head Adapter Ball Base with B Size 1" Ball www.amazon.com/dp/B0012TRIY4 I have these mounts on most of my motorcycles, and they are very useful and stable. The flexibility of mounting a phone, GPS, GoPro, or whatever just can't be beat! 😉👍 --QM

@@QuasiMotard Thanks a bunch!

Thanks for the feedback! I would recommend increasing the front and rear spring preload at the same time. The rear shocks are originally set at #3, but you can always back it down to 0 and work upward to verify that you're on the same setting for both sides. The front preload is originally set at 3/8" (9mm). I would recommend increasing the front preload about 3/4 turn clockwise and first, and then work in 1/2 turn increments up or down to test the front fork compliance. You can use the zip tie test as shown in this video or just go by feel to make it comfortable for your riding chores. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

I weigh 270 imma have to go up to 20 😂😭

@@squidoo. I've got you by about 30lbs. I'm gonna have to go up to max...(And start dieting more..lol)

@@squidoo. Did you ever get a Rebel 1100, and what did you end up for the rear shock setting?

@@feloniousmonk3049 Never did get the rebel… it sucks but things just didn’t turn out.

Agreed! Unfortunately, Honda omitted that spec from the owner's manual. The factory service manual has all of the details, but that manual is a separate purchase through Helm, Inc. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

Yes, these are anodized (or parkerized) aluminum collars. I'm not sure if a touch-up paint or etching solution would work for covering the spanner marks. Maybe someone else in the comments has an idea? 😉👍 --QM

Howdy, Peter! No, increasing spring preload will reduce the static sag (weight of the bike on the suspension) and the rider sag (weight of bike and rider on the suspension), which will generally raise the bike slightly from its laden height. That doesn't mean that it lifts the bike up higher. The shocks can only extend to their full ride height. The springs resist "sag" or compression of the damper due to the weight of the bike and rider. The trick is to use as much of the suspension stroke as possible (smoothest ride), yet still avoid unnecessary bottoming-out of the shocks under normal riding conditions. It's not realistic to expect the suspension to NEVER bottom out, but it shouldn't be a normal occurrence. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

Thanks for the reply, I understand what you have said, thanks again.

Yes, the AirHawk seat pads are fantastic! They do require a bit of tuning and fiddling around with the amount of air to achieve the best comfort. The best setting is with just a slight amount of air that only fills in the gaps, but you're still connected to the bike's seat below. Too much air makes them feel squirmy and you'll feel like you're sitting on a balloon. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

@@QuasiMotard Thanks for getting back to me I heard the same thing slight air would do the job and comfort.

Your observations are correct. Honda designs these bikes around tiny Japanese men, not corn fed Mid West American males. The bike coming with only a single seat should be another indicator that it's not designed as a two seater, really.

I just asked the same question in the rebel group as us together are 330lbs and always ride 2 up and we've been using it in the default it came. Driving yday we hit a bump and the bump scraped something under the bike.

@@sohantanna625 And did you get an answer? If not, then I would go straight to 15 setting and start doing this ziptie test from there with passenger over some smaller bumps and adjust from there. Just be careful to not go over the max setting (which by service manual is 18? some have gone to 20, but that's already in risky territory.).

Those mirrors are CRG Hindsight Lane Splitters. You can find the details in my video here (product links are in the video description): kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i51ymsqqmsrNkYE.html . Cheers! 👍 --QM

Honda doesn't list any specifics in the owner's manual at all. This testing is largely trial-and-error, and it depends on your riding habits and road conditions. Based on my tests and responses from other Rebel 1100 owners, I would suspect that riding with a passenger will require the rear spring preload to be near its maximum setting. The general feedback so far looks like this: - 100-120 pounds: 3 (factory setting) - 150 pounds: 5-6 - 170 pounds: 6-7 - 200 pounds: 8-10 - 220 pounds: 10-12 - with passenger: 15+ ? Cheers! 👍 --QM

I ordered a decent (~$200 USD) industrial sound pressure meter a few days ago, so I'll try to use it to record the dB readings. It won't be a certified test, but I will try to replicate the "official" measurement procedures (e.g., distance from the source, engine RPM, idle vs open throttle, etc). If all goes well, then I'll post that follow-up video sometime within the next couple of weeks. Cheers! 👍 --QM

@@QuasiMotard Oh! That's awesome! Thank you for your dedication! Very much appreciated!

I just released the second video with a new Coffman's Shorty, and I included audio and dB readings: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rtemiaSQvqi9fHk.html . I hope that helps with your shopping! Cheers! 👍 --QM

Good question! The Rebel's seating position for me is unique... not quite standard, not quite cruiser. I'm 5'7" with a 30" inseam (proportional torso length). The Rebel's mid-controls are a bit more cramped than normal cruisers, and the handlebars don't reach back toward the rider like a typical cruiser. My riding position is decidedly hunched forward, so I have ordered the Kijima handlebars that should reach back a little more so I'm not hunched forward so much. Cheers! 👍 --QM

Do you mean "standard" as in standard/manual shift, or as in a standard/upright frame design? The Rebel 1100 is available in both manual shift and DCT versions: powersports.honda.com/street/cruiser/rebel-1100/ . The manual version weighs about 22 pounds less than the DCT (487 vs 509 lbs)... otherwise the bikes have the same performance, ergonomics, and features (e.g., ride modes, ABS, etc). Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

@@QuasiMotard Like a Ducati Monster.

Congrats on your Rebel 1100! WOW... that beast must really FLY with your feathery 100 pounds on it! I'm a small/light rider by USA standards, and the Rebel 1100 tries to lift the front wheel in 1st and 2nd gear with me on it. I'll bet it's even more eager to lift skyward with you aboard... that's gotta be loads of fun! Cheers! 👍 --QM

@@QuasiMotard It flies, love this bike. I accidently got a foot or so off the ground, but it stops me from doing much with the wheelie control. I don't really want to do wheelies so that's fine... just got used to rain mode the first week I had it, and was a big switch to sport. I'd probably have wrecked already if this was my first bike.

That's an old trick from working with anodized AN fittings. It usually helps, but doesn't do much with sharp-edged tools like a shock spanner wrench. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

Agreed! If Honda would drop this motor into the CB650R or CB1000R chassis, and leave it in the full AT tune... oh, that would be a fun ride! I don't know how the power/weight ratio compares to the inline-4's, but the twin's torque lower down should make a great canyon carver. 👍 --QM

I have the rear spring preload set at #8 and the front forks about 3/4 turn in (clockwise) from stock. 😉👍 --QM

@@QuasiMotard thanks for update

Nope! The ergonomics are even a bit tight for me at 5'7" and 170 lbs. Riders above 6' will feel very cramped and would probably need forward controls or footpeg relocation kits to give enough leg room. 😉👍 --QM

I'm a tad shorter than you and get leg cramps sometimes but love the bike.

That's why the zip-tie test is important. It lets you see how much compression/travel is happening on the shock tube. I increased the preload all the way up to test how many steps there are; the Honda owner's manual doesn't specify how many clicks are available. My riding weight is ~170 lbs, and I'm running my Rebel at 8 clicks for normal city riding, and 11 clicks for touring (loaded with luggage on the back). --QM