Thanks for the informative video. I couldn't remember what size the bolts were for the thermostat housing but I did remember that they need to be torque to 9 foot pounds when I heard you say got them tightened down real good that's scared me because you're going into aluminum. Hopefully you talked them to 9 foot pounds kind of just go back-and-forth a bit, snug snug and 9 ft/lbs that way you don't distort the thermostat housing. as far as the V6 fan you installed. It's not necessary. The electric fan that was already there which is on the smaller side, but perfectly adequate to move enough air even in traffic. You can remove the entire shutter assembly is what I did and then it allows for more air, but reconnect your shutter motor and find a piece of steel so you could make it into a bracket to bolt the shutter actuator to it. by placing a screw at the top and at the bottom, this will limit the amount of movement the shutter actuator can actually move, so as do not throw a fault code. Otherwise it will think it's not there and throw a fit with a check engine light. Not only will get better airflow, but shave off about 10 pounds from the front end, which is quite a bit considering how heavy the front end of a ram truck is. I removed my spare tire as well that saved a lot of weight. I'm gonna be taking off my front tow hooks and my trailer hitch. I think that'll be about 200 pounds I'll be saving altogether with those four items removed. Oh plus my front clutch fan just like you did. if you have any issues with cooling after removing the V6 fan if you do so, it might be due to not having the full fan shroud assembled? You may have had it off for the thermostat R&R as well? I just need to either figure out a way to cheat so my electric fan will come on at 180 F or I'll have to bite the bullet, and buy a tuner. Another cost saving trick or hack if you will is that I noticed a lot of the aftermarket cold air intakes aren't a lot different than the original one except for the fact that the side of the airbox is cut out so you could pretty much cut the bottom portion or some of the bottom portion of your airbox out as long as it's below the air filter to allow more air from the right side of your wheel wheel to come into the airbox, rather than it be so much more restricted. By cutting out the bottom portion of your airbox, he will look pretty much like the AFE or rough country version because they state that if you're in a really dusty or dirty climate to block off the rear portion of the cold air intake. When I looked at my own airbox, I thought to myself why hasn't anybody put out a video on this yet on how to modify their OEM airbox to make it more of a TRU cold air intake because it would be taking air from a lower height than the restrictive inlet. Keep on MODDIN