Haven't had a chance to test if it holds zero, but mounts just fine and has nice clear glass. Centered vertically true to a plumb line with the crosshairs which is always a plus!It's a great kzfaq.infoUgkxc4K63Fd5LglDMObu7-Bgapxp_ef0W8hE scope. There's no parallax adjustment or focus ring, so may be limited to 3-7x, have to see how it is on the range. Also be aware that the rings are "look through" so you can still use irons, but they are really tall if you only intend to use the optics. On a 22LR no biggie since I'm not shooting competitions or worried about a hard cheek press. Will boresight and range test, if all goes well, I'll leave it at that!

As a retired Nuclear Instrument Tech, proper torqueing should be done in quarter increments. For 30 inch pounds, screws should be evenly torqued in a crisscross pattern at 7.5, 15, .5 and finally at 30in/lbs. This is how we were/are trained to torque items in nuclear power. Very good video Mr. Randy.

Thanks for sharing. I've been using one of your earlier scope mounting videos for my last two projects and they worked great. This one really simplifies the process! Thanks for sharing!

Randy I’m so happy to have been induced to your channel by my best friend Mike off submarine when we were in the navy together. Unfortunately the VA had to amputate my right lower leg four year’s ago on the 23rd of this month. I’ve been following you and because of this Mike and I went and did a pronghorn hunt last year. We had a great time and we saw hundreds of pronghorn and dozens of large deer too. My next Rifle will be one of your signature series. What’s the best way to purchase it so that you will get credit from the sale? Oh I forgot to say you actually commented on a photo of me hiking up and down the terrain as I was pushing the pronghorn toward Mike. I’m doing better than most amputees only because I went hiking and hunting when I was in Boy Scouts. Thank you for all your great videos. I’ll also be purchasing one of the Loupold VX 6 scopes. Best wishes to you, your family and your crew.

A string and weight hanging across the room as far as you can and line up cross hair. A white string and weight cost nothing but yes the rifle has to be level in the vice. TC

Im poor....i use some test line tied onto a couple washers. One day when im rich and famous i'll use the Larry Potterfield method, a little 99 cent level on top of the receiver and then on top of the turret cap and finished. Im working up to it! As for the torque wrench yeah they are nice but I just tightened best I could and the deer didnt seem to mind at all!

Great tutorial on getting this crucial step of scope mounting done the right way.The farther out you plan on shooting the more important it is to have everything trued up,especially if you are dialing turrets

Great video - very informative. Getting the scope level is crucial to ensuring that the adjustments perform as designed. Thank you

That looks like a nice rifle Randy. I mounted a new scope on a new rifle this summer. I bought the wheeler pro kit and also used a laser level to ensure the crosshairs were perfectly vertical/horizontal. It worked well. However I need to upgrade my vice to one like you have there. I have a Tipton but it’s one of the cheaper ones - it does fine for maintenance but not so great for scope mounting.

Thank you Randy, I appreciate your take on this. The comments before mine helped some too.

I like to use a lapping kit (Wheeler) on all my scope rings, even Leupold. One thing I like do use for leveling is a laser borescope (LaserLite) with a colimador and a grid target with a bubble level on top. What I love in this set up is that you are not using the turrets as a level surface, since they might not be perfectly aligned with the reticle.

Outstanding video with lots of great info. I would have preferred slightly lower mount height to give the scope a lower profile, but that is more of preference. The way Randy has it is great.

New to air rifle and scope mounting. You have the best scope mounting technics I have seen on KZfaq thus far. Will be watching your video many more times. Will be buying all equipment in video. Than you for sharing. Can’t wait to try it out.

Well, you left out one important thing to check after doing the precision leveling job [nice work]. To see if the scope itself tracks true and is a quality instrument, turn the elevation knobs and watch for it to track true vertically. then go back to dead center. then turn the horiontal adjustment knob and watch to see if the reticle tracks true horizontally back and forth left to right. It it tracks true, you have a good scope. Sometimes the best mounting job still fails to shoot true due to a junk scope.

There are a few things to keep in mind. Everyone's shoulder is not perfect, so when you shoulder your rifle it might be naturally canted. Therefore even if your crosshairs are perfectly plumb they might be leaning when you shoulder your rifle. The only way to confirm this is to permanently mount a bubble level to your scope or base. That way when you go to shoot you can check your bubble level. It's fine to have your rifle canted if it's your natural shooting position....as long as scope is plumb and you have a bubble level on it.

That is very very impressive. Doing this is very important the way you just showed Randy. Really enjoy watching your tactics and skills and improving your skills to be a better hunter. Keep up the great work and good luck in the field.

Awesome tool I always just put a level line and a plumb line on a wall that didn’t matter and used that as a reference after the gun was leveled

Should have taken the wheeler level and put it on top of the scope to see if there is any discrepancy between scope level vs reticle level.

Very nice video and gear tips. Thanks Randy!

overly complex to achieve 2 planes of adjustment.

I like that vise! That thing is what I need, but I just don't have room right now. I had a problem recently where I used my laser bore-sight to get my AR sighted in. I think the muzzle brake was not totally horizontal with the end of the barrel so when I put the bore-sight on the end of the weapon it must have been slightly off, which amounted to a good 12 inches at 100 yards. Luckily, the range had a camera on the target so I managed to see where the rounds were hitting (off the paper). So, I had to crank the scope like 15 clicks right and 10 up. I finally got it producing tight groups, but that was the first time I ever had a problem with the bore sight.

Nice-looking rifle Randy, and one of my favorite calibers 7 mm o8.

Very nice system thank you for sharing!

I've never understood the concerned that the scope is level to the rifle but then never check whether the scope reticle is parallel to the ground when shooting. Many people hold their rifle at a slight cant and some professional shooters hold it at a fairly big angle, what is important is that the scope is parallel to the earth. I use a bubble on the scope while I am at the range and many times its surprising how off I am, especially if the target or whatever I am shooting at isn't level. If there are any lines in the view of the scope are not level (sloping hillside, etc), it's actually pretty difficult to get it level without a bubble or some other reference.

Do you consider that you may not shoulder your rifle totally vertical? I understand your method as it is very popular and makes kind of sence. I prefer to level the croshairs in relation to my off hand shooting. Pointing on a line i know is level. Tjekking several times before tigthening the screws. I find this more real world usefull. Just my opinion.

hmmm, well, I guess that is all well and good to spend all that money for all that equipment. If one is constantly mounting scopes that would be a good investment. However, if I am mounting one scope on one rifle, that is really expensive to buy all that equipment for just one scope and one rifle. Never-the-less, a good video. Thanks for presenting this.

I can tell by the handle that the torx driver you had was made by Wera. They are a German tool company and make great hand tools. Thanks for the info, Randy and team.

Thank you Randy

Thanks great video

great video, thanks! What is the torque you are using to tighten the screws?

Good stuff! Thanks!!

Thanks for the video!

Thanks Randy, quite an education. Have a question for ya though. It wouldn't be as precise, but could a shortcut work by laying a level on the scope turret and a level on the receiver (or rail for ARs)? Or is that not feasible for a reason I'm not seeing?

Great tip. When does the new rifle hit the stores? And what other calibers are you adding this time?

After leveling the rifle and the grid. You could shine any light you wanted to level the reticle. The level on the light seems redundant at best. Neat idea though, I’ve always leveled my rifle and used a plumb bob. Never thought of a level grid. Thanks for video and new ideas

Might want to look at the Parabola LLC Reticle-Tru also. It's only one piece of equipment and the big advantage is that you don't have to worry about leveling the rifle first. But the device Newberg is demonstrating should also be good.

A lot of expensive kit that can be replaced by a piece of string and and a simple weight. Can never understand why someone would pay money for scope rings they have 'work on' ie lap to get right. Surely today's manufacturing is good enough!

Awesome... thanks buddy

Brilliant- this is the video I was looking for ... where did you get that vice - contacts details please

Great vid- thanks

For how much equipment is needed I might as well just use iron sights😂

I may have needed that. My rifles were done but shotgun I put scopes on but need some of your tools ugh 🤪. Thanks.

Really good video and excellent very needed information and training. Your garage is, well it appears disorganized like mine are all of us CPA's this way?

Thanks - as far as making sure the reticle is perpendicular, wouldn’t putting a level on the elevation turret and rotating the scope inside a slightly snug mount accomplish the same thing or am I missing something? Are you assuming the elevation turret may not be precisely aligned with the verticle axis of the reticle?

I never heard you dont have to lap Leopold rings. I also didn't catch the part where you set the eye relief. You covered the basics.

Cheaper alternative is to set up a plumb line and look through the scope.

Thank you sir.

So, once the scope is level would it be ok to attach a anti-can’t bubble level to the optic once everything is set? Just to make sure that you have the rifle level before taking that shot? Or waste of time and money? Thanks!

I won't ask if this is on the level... Thank you Sir, I learned a lot.

Thank you!

I have the wheeler kit with the barrel level and another normal level, can I trust my weaver scope base to be a baseline for leveling? and should I remove the turret to get the most even area to measure off? I don’t want to ruin my new $349 diamondback tactical.

I get mine level holding it in my lap. All this extra crap is unnecessary. 2 small circular bubble levels is all i use. You can check it with a plumb line if you're questioning it.

Good video Randy. I can definitely vouch for not lapping your Leopold rings...you think things are all good until you go to the range and find that your rifle won't group worth a damn due to the scope moving ever so slightly within the rings upon recoil, then back to the store to buy a new set. Another reticle level option is after you have the gun level you can use the level you have on the tang of your receiver and place it on your top turret...this will get you damn close. If you're shooting 1,000+ yards for competition it may not be 100% but sufficient enough for hunting applications.

I liked the idea of having the bird dog kennel in the shop for winter, nice!

The Real Avid Level Right Pro is not available on Amazon.

so what if when you start clicking the turrets and the reticle tracks same as the turret and not the reticle plane? level the scope based on the clicks of turrets!!!

A machinist taught me to strike the lapping bar with a mallet. The dual dovetail rings will torque in to perfect alignment. Has worked for years! Doesn’t damage the bar.

Best Ever Randy !!!

I've never mounted a scope, but I've affixed many scopes to rifles....

I watched this video yesterday just before mounting a Leupold on a Pre-64 Model 70 with Weaver style bases and rings. As much as I prefer the Leupold Dual-Dovetail Mounts and Rings, this rifle was already sporting the Weaver Bases and I am unwilling to have another hole drilled and tapped to put the Leupold bases on top, I digress. The point being that the Weaver Bases and Rings eliminated the issue of 'truing' the rings to exactly 90 degrees from the bore line - which I had never had any trouble doing without the 'lapping tool' anyway. I was able to set the cross-hairs using a single magnet level I have left over from a two-magnet level set I bought years ago - one of them went MIA. I have a much cruder rifle vise so it was a little bit of a challenge to set the rifle level but I got it done. One challenge is finding a flat spot on the rifle to place the magnet, this rifle had the rear sight removed and a 'spacer' installed to fill the gap which gave me a perfectly flat surface for the level. I then put moved the level to the top scope turret cap and adjusted level to match and went back and forth a few times to ensure nothing had moved as I tightened down the rings onto the scope. I then shouldered the rifle and checked it against a vertical wall corner about a block away - worked for ME! My bottom line is I accomplished the task using a $3.00 level in significantly less time and with a lot less bother than Mr. Newberg demonstrated. Having said all that, I never crank corrections to a scope in the field. It is zeroed for a range and left alone! Hold-over and/or wind-drift are via 'Kentucky Windage' First of all, I don't buy scopes for hunting that have external adjustments, secondly, I have heard that one big problem military snipers who DO crank adjustments is remembering to return the scope to 'zero' after shooting. Now if I was in the business of mounting high-end scopes for extreme long-range shooters, yeah, I'd have a set-up like his, but for mounting a scope every few years for my uses? Nahhhh.

I've just been using a line I drew in my garage with a plumb and a flashlight.

I do something similar. I level a target on a wall, then level the gun and finally level the cross hair with the target lines. Nothing extra to buy.

Once you figure out your scope set up, can you remove with a quick release and then put it back on or do you have to go through another major procedure to set it up? I just received my scope. Have you done any video installing a scope from start to finish and a basic explanation of how to use it?

Is it possible for the vertical axis of the scope to be out of line with the bore?

Hopefully they made sure the mechanism inside is level, click both turrets to make sure.

Randy, at what point, in terms of rounds fired do you consider a barrel "broken in"?

Everything looks great but I didn't see a bubble level on the scope itself. When your out in the field it's easy to cant you scope. Given the affect don't show up until way out there I still like a bubble level

This was my issue. Thank you

I purchased a DBK-RIM 2-7 x35 Rimfire V-plex Vortex Diamondback riflescope. I would like to mount it on to my .22 bolt action Marlin Glenfield Model 25. What rings would you suggest?

How can I get one of your 7mm08

Does this leveling tool work on a First Focal Plane Scope ??

Big Randy Newberg fan here but this video is a little misleading. The title of video indicates that the turrets/erector assembly are not aligned with the reticle. If they are not and you level reticle to rifle, when you dial in elevation, you will be off target. A "Tall test" at the range will prove this. Google it, some very helpful videos out there. The rifle must be aligned to the vertical plane of the erector assembly within the scope if you are dialing your come ups. If you are using a ballistic reticle, Randy is correct. You need to level the reticle to the rifle. If the reticle does not agree with this, then you have another quality issue with your scope. I also noted Randy is not using a scope mounted level while hunting, a must have if you want to ensure you are shouldering your rifle truly vertical.

Randy, i have a video, my newest video, using the reticle level, did I do it right? Thank you

What was the mistake? Not having $2500 in gear?

I would have leveled the reciever after mounting the bottom scope bases by putting two levels on the bottom scope bases. It looks like the contact points on the level to the reciever is very short. You want the distance between the contact points on the level to be as long as possible. In the video, it appears you are adjusting the level, not the receiver, in making the receiver level. Also, I would hang a plumblob to align the scope's crosshair.

When dialing for elevation, the scope does not need to be level with the rifle. The scope needs to be level with the world. You need a scope mounted level that is set up to be level with the scope’s reticle. It is easy in the field to think it is level, when it is not, especially in Mountain terrain.

Squaring the crosshairs to the raceways in a bolt gun is a good place to start, however there is no guarantee the optics elevation adjustment is square with the crosshairs. Ive been building long range rifles for many purposes for many years and through this experience i can tell you the only true and correct way to ensure correct tracking while dialling for elevation is to shoot the rifle... A 4' level a sharpie and a half dozen rounds of your rifles favorite load will tell you if your optics mechanical adjustment is parralel with vertical crosshair. 100 yds works for a distance to shoot but is not critical. Make a sight point at the bottom of a 30" line made vertical using your 4' level. shoot three shots dial up one revolution and shoot three more. the two groups relationship to the vertical line will tell you if the optics mechanical adjustment and crosshair are matching. Any difference in point of impact to the left or to the right indicates miss allignment. Group movement to the right indicates a clock wise error in mechanical adjustment and left movement indicates a counterclockwise error. You can check your optics movement per click while performing this test. Find statistical center of each group and measure between the two.Divide by the number of clicks you adjusted from one group to the other. This gives you distance moved per click. Some ballistics programs will ask for this as a correction factor. Seldom to optics match advertised click movement. This is why some optics manufactures "fudge" velocity and or B.C. to try to match your ammunitions trajectory.

I get feeler gauges. The scope bottom has to be flat and the base has to be 1 piece. But it’s really fast and perfect every time

What kind of rings are those?

Already the product... on the website provided... is unavailable... I like it. I have used a level on the scope and looked at my grid on my bore sight which I level. However you have to be careful with it as it will move. This little device just simplifies things. Hopefully it can still be found somewhere on the market.

Anyone know what kind of rifle he uses and what caliber?

Well now I don't feel stupid using my daughters graphing paper she had laying around. Thanks Mr. Randy as always!

I can remember standing in the gun store in Sitka holding my new .338 Win.mag. Looking through the scope while the store owner said, line it up with the door jamb over there, is it matching the vertical jamb? yes. good. tighten it up. well, I had the rifle canted a little. my crosshairs have been out of plumb and level ever since. it made it a tough scope to sight in. Leupold 3x9. Its a hard hitter and good out to several hundred yards. That was back in 1996.

Feels like just hanging a neon plumb line would do the same thing as that projector thing - except more accurately, easier, and cheaper. Since gravity isn't going to be off - but the paint lines on your cheap levels very likely do not match.

Unfortunately Leupold reticles can be as much as 3° off level and it is considered acceptable by them. I found this out a few years ago when I levelled my scope using a plumbob and levelling the action, the same would happen with this device. The level has to go on the flat part on the bottom of the scope where the adjusters are .

I use a plum bob and flashlight method. Finally a way to keep flashlight in place.

Did you level the floor, table and Tipton to make sure? Table could be slanted, causing the vice and therefore the bubble to be off on the rifle. Just sayin..

So... how do you stop the operator canting to the left or right while taking a shot... screw a spirit level to the end of his nose?...

OR you buy a modern optic that mounts with a rail in stead of rings. I’m using the Zeiss Conquest V6 that mounts with a rail. Now I can swap it from one rifle to another without bothering about the leveling. I find it is always a hassle to get the scope leveled.

Geez, I thought a lapping took actual ground rings down to be parallel. Didn’t know it was merely an alignment jig.

Glad I read the comments

what if i don't have access to all those levels ?

Why do Leupold rings not require lapping?

Is that what the best military snipers use? Seems pretty important. I just used to shoulder my rifle snugged in a eyeball it.

The degree of people commenting misinformation is astounding.

What’s the name of tool you use to twist the scope rings?

We mounted my sons scope. It was on for us but found out the rings we had on it were to high for a youth. We could not understand until we took it to a gun smith.

If the reticles are level and the turrets aren't. Would that make the adjustments go diagonal instead of vertical and horizontal?

It is hard to believe how many people bring out a new, or used, rifle for help sighting it in and the first thing I see when I look threw the scope is that it's not vertical with the rifle. Many times I get the argument that it's level and you look at the rifle and it sure isn't. Hard to convince people of the importance of level. Most of us can't afford all of the goodies you have there but I find looking at the rifle and THEN looking threw the scope without moving the rifle at at a highline pole in the far distance is a pretty good indicator of where level is. You may laugh at that, but it gets them far better than guessing at it and plenty good enough or better than most scopes are ever mounted. The hardest part of all is tightening the ring bolts without moving the crosshairs in the scope.

Couldn't you do the same thing with two levels if the receiver is square the barrel will be square to the receiver unless the barrel is lose then just put your level piece of graph paper on the front end of the scope attached to the barrel and adjust from there...