We had this same problem. Adjusted the front feet and problem solved.

I can't say thanks enough for your super helpful comment! I watched the whole video and almost to follow the step to unscrew the evaporator cover. I thought maybe check what others say. Then I saw your comments. Tried immediately and the issue was fixed!!! Thanks so much!

God bless you and your family, mine has been doing this and will look into this!

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Did that cause the evaporator to ice over and stop cooling the fridge? I'm hoping its a simple fix with the drain like yours was.

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This only sounds like half the story. I am going through that now, and replaced the evaporator blower motor. However, I now don't think that was the problem. The ice buildup came into the fan blades, causing the noise - I assumed it was because of bad bearing, till I removed it and saw what was going on. I just ordered a heater, I am guessing that is the cause of the ice buildup, but of course it could be something else. I did go into the diagnostic mode, #6, (for the heater) and it came up with error code 03, which I believe is a Short.

​@@billcoleman8854did you figure out the solution to diagnostic step 6 with error code 03? I am showing the same and it is not listed on the tech sheet. There is water buildup under the 2 pantry drawers though.

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No, and I found the wiring corroded on one of the door switches. Switch was good, but wire had corroded internally and lost continuity. Be careful, some idiot designed these things with 120 unfused volts to the door ajar switches. Huge fire hazard..

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Same problem. What is the selector?

Please explain

@@8hfcvfwr the left drawer has a way to set temperature in drawer by selecting delivery, cheese, vegatables, soda. Evidentley it was bad and effects all controls on refrigerator. Once it was replaced everything has been fine. It was a simple fix but the technician that kept coming didn't know about it.

@@carrolstack4625 simple but very pricey

Any idea how he did that. Might be worth a shot.

Mine would do that because the ice would begin to melt (other issues this one has when it starts to fail on you) then refreeze, so the hopper couldn't feed this newly formed block of ice cubes and it was difficult to chop through for crushed. Mostly, ice wouldn't even feed down the Chute because it was frozen back into that block

Did you ever get your auger motor issue resolved? To be perfectly honest, if you can do half of the things they show in this video, then replacing your auger motor will be pretty intuitive. If the problem is that the dispenser "hums" and doesn't turn, then it's likely due to moisture getting into the auger motor housing and freezing. Personally, I think this is a design flaw, but it's something you can resolve, although you may have to do it more than once if you're unable to resolve the rot cause... As ice melts in the bucket, water can drip down around the auger shaft, where it can get into the auger motor, despite a fairly tight bushing on the motor. The water then re-freezes down inside that motor between the gears, and bam... it won't work... at least not until you break it free to thaw it out. The larger problem is that once water gets into that thing, it seems to have no way out. The auger is a sealed unit, so you can't open it. I've thought about drilling a tiny weep hole in the bottom of the case to allow water to drain out, but then I keep thinking they sealed it for a reason, so I'm reluctant to do that. If you remove the motor and shake it, you'll likely hear water sloshing around inside it. I put mine on top of a paper towel upside down for two or three days and most of the water did manage to work its way out. another option might be to place it in a warm, dry environment for several hours. There is a little rubber boot that fits on to the auger shaft that "should" deflect water away from it, but I don't think it's 100% effective. To remove / replace the auger motor, remove the ice bucket, then remove the four Philips screws surrounding the base plate that the bucket sat on. This will expose the cavity where the motor sits. It's held in by a couple of hex screws. Once you get those out, you'll need to disconnect the electrical connector and the motor just lifts out. Once you get the motor thawed out and the water out of it, it will probably work fine and won't need to be replaced, but it does amaze me that KA hasn't solved this problem. As I said, I'm thinking about drilling a small weep hole in the bottom of the motor housing to give water some place to go should it get inside there. At this point, I figure I can't do any worse than what's already happening, but I hate permanently altering something. It's a sealed unit so you don't really have a lot of options though. Good luck! (Oh and BTW... If yours DOESN'T have that little boot on it, you need to ask KA to send you one, or see if you can order it separate from the motor. I ended up buying a new motor for mine only to discover this is what the real problem was, and the new one case with the boot; the original one didn't have it. That thing cost me over $120, so I'd definitely try and get the little boot first. Both motors mechanically still work fine now, although I still have problems with moisture getting inside even the ne motor.

I’m having the same issue, seems like a pertinent part of assembly/disassembly

I see this is a common problem. I'd like KA to repalce my baortds, even though I'm out of warranty, obvious defect

@@nmpeter487 I had the main board replaced and that looks like it did the trick. I had an extended warranty so that wasn't an issue. I hope the help you good luck.

How do I disassemble the left drawer selector panel?

I'd love to know how to access the diagnostic features

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b5yBgc98uM_HZmQ.html

No lights

No lights

@@brendalove3906 How long did you turn it off for?

@@salalbanese5537 at least 10-15 minutes. I put a smart plug in for my fridge so I can power it off from my phone

That means there was a power outage and you should be aware of the potential of spoiled food that refroze. It could also mean you have a really expensive controller board problem. My KA sometimes needs to be powered down for ten minutes and restarted to restore power to the ice maker and interior lights. Service contract useless.

Mine did that when it began icing up, and the temp in the freezer came above 26. Had to keep pressing reset.

Exactly what I’m up against right now, going to start troubleshooting this weekend

Amen

Unfortunately they did. Lots of problems

Absolutely the worst fridge ever made... you will have problems.... Sorry but welcome to the club

ours has been a lemon since new. it's now 3.5yrs old and has had the following replaced. front panel, the three control boards in the back replaced twice. upper ice maker boards replaced, and now it needs the main board again and there is no stock. So after a month of no fridge, Lowes is sending us a check for the purchase price because we bought the extended 5yr warranty... and the techs can't fix it. I don't normally buy extended warranties, but with all the electronics in this thing, and the cost of replacing just a single component.... I decide to buy one. it was money well spent. But it's sad that all new refrigerators have all these electronic boards in them that the manufactures (all brands) stop making parts for after they have been in production for a few years. Pay all this money and they only last 3yrs? our old Montgomery Wards Admiral Side by Side is still humming along (doing garage duty now) after 30yrs. only thing ever replaced is the ice maker every 10yrs. Not because it stops working, but that the teflon lining on the tray starts to flake off into the ice itself.