+Robert Speckmann I'm glad this video was able to help you out. Honestly I was in the same boat as you. I spoke with a few different plumbers and they all advised me against soldering the pipe myself as you can easily melt right through it. They all recommended plastic seal and some other product, however, the other product came in a can and wasn't as easy to apply in a tight groove.

Chuck I'm pleased you found this video helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Hey Freddie, I'm glad you found this video helpful. Please feel free to ask any additional questions you have have and do share your results once the work has been completed.

I had used plastic seal instead of solder and it has held up well for many years - no smells or leaks. What is “5050”?

@@ErikAsquith 50 lead 50 solder. I think they make a 100% lead though not sure. Its not the many years I'm worried about. At the end of life of flange I need to replace it the same way I took it out and usually quick fix products as such cause problems for me down the road. Just speaking from experience.

There's a small lip along the edge that will provide the necessary spacing between the floor/subfloor and the flange so that you can slide the closet bolts into place.

I'm glad you found this video helpful! The seal between the flange and lead bend have worked out flawlessly. We have not had any leaks or sewer gas smells. My lead bend took a 90 degree angle towards the rear wall and then straight down to exterior wall to the basement. I had about 3" of clearance between the bottom of the sub floor and the top of the lead bend. While I did use longer screws, I fastened them to the left and right of the lead bend to ensure they wouldn't meet.

Did you have to trim off the top of the lead pipe?

@@dksculpture I did. Used a cut off wheel on a 4 inch side grinder, messy as hell but works. Hold a shop vac hose beside it to minimize mess.

Thanks for the feedback. The wood surface is flush with the surrounding tile floor. The brass flange is sitting above the surrounding finished tile floor.

Paul B I had purchased it from a local plumbing supply. The big box stores did not have any with a deep flange.

@@ErikAsquith I found one thanks.

Giorgio Sericeno is the lead bend (pipe) or brass toilet flange not level?

Chino Chan Thanks!

+Tarek El Kharboutly Are you able to see the pipe the lead bend connects to? Perhaps they reduced the throat of the lead bend to mate with a 3" or small pipe? Are you able to get access to the lead bend under the floor (ex. from the basement)? If so, I would just remove it and install some new PVC (which is what I plan on doing in my 1st floor bathroom).

+mike mike "Were is this guy" - English?

The closet flange has a slightly larger opening to slide the head of the closet bolt head in. Then you cgan move the closet bolt under the part of the flange where the opening is smaller, which will prevent it from pulling up and out when you tighten down the nut.

Mike John is that what the mess is under the flange?

I spoke with 2 different plumbers and a plumbing supply store and they all stated that this was a sufficient and adequate solution, and that soldering was not necessary. If I had received this information from only the plumbing supply store, or perhaps only one plumber, then I would have questioned if this was an acceptable application. Have you seen this product used in the field for this type of application after 5, 10, or 20 years? If yes, how did it hold up? I just unbolted and removed my toilet to check the seal between the lead and brass and it still appears both water and air tight after 6 years. I tied spaying some water with dye mixed in as well as using an air compressor around the seal - I could not feel any moister or air getting through from below (since I had access from the ceiling below). While I have don’t know how it will hold up for 10, 20, or more years, it appears to be holding up well after 6 years.

@@ErikAsquith I think there's a good chance it will hold up as long as everything is mechanically rigid, so there's no force on the adhesive seal. The only thing I might have done differently, in your case, is to really work the adhesive further down into the joint between the pipe and flange as well as the bead you made at the top. Of course, if you ever had to remove the flange, it would be a lot more difficult.

What did you find unacceptable with the results? Did you find that the results were no better than leaving the existing toilet flange in the broken state and not securely mounted to the sub floor?

@@ErikAsquith didnt figure you would get a reply, always an asshole somewhere. Great video , Thank you.

Erik Asquith 1. The way to do it is to use bar solder and solder it. 2. He left wood under the bowl. Wood swells with moisture and can crack the bowl. I am a plumber. When I go to a home I do the proper job, next time buy a roll of 50/50 bar solder. Clean it up, level it using steel shims. Solder the flange properly. And never use wood to shim, as it can swell and crack the China.

Ahh, they're going to sell the house and leave it for the next sucker

Thank you SO MUCH!!! This is exactly what I have, and out of hundreds of videos this was the ONLY one that helped me!!! I didn't know what I had and tried to cut it off and really butchered it. I hope I can still make it work..😬 Do I have to use brass with the lead pipe, or can I use any flange? Where can I get the adhesive that you used to seal it with?