A wealth of good information here. I'm restoring an antique sickle bar mower that belonged to my Dad. The cutter bar had broken, and so, I was in the process of removing all the sickle blades. I tried grinding off the rivet heads and punching them out, but that just was not working well. So, I went to KZfaq and found your video! If my Dad was still alive, he would have taught me what you just did, but he isn't and so, I'm grateful to you and all the KZfaq folks who share their knowledge. THANK YOU!

I called John deere and asked how much new teeth are. They referred me to a dentist.

An old vid but all the experts leaving comments is fun reading, I been doing this for decades on the old 501 just as you did here, I still hate heat,sweat and headaches that come with putting up hay.

Some good advice by c'caper down here, and I like to add that one should not really rivet the sections on like that, on the flat anvil; because there will be a gap in between the section and the knife's back. Better support the rivet on a corner of the anvil. Didn't understand this while I was shitting yellow, but picked it up later.

Finally I learned how to do it I used to drill those and god damn that takes so much time Thank you so much!

Hmm... those are good considerations! I was just following the example of the existing teeth, and I never thought about the stress on the cutter bar. Beyond supporting it on an anvil. Thanks,

Thanks for sharing ....Enjoyed this video!

Great video. You can use the ball end of the hammer and it will make the rivet heads round and equalize pressure to the knife bar.

Did this all my life. We used a three-foot length of railroad iron in lieu of an anvil, and I had a shorter one just for emergency use in the tractor cab. Two thoughts -- put on another pair of gloves; hold on to your punch better and it won't drop through the hole (I always just used a big nut on the iron); get a bigger hammer. :) I finally got smart and bolt on my "sections."

With a bigger hammer, you can often knock out a section with just one stroke. Saves a lot of time when putting in a whole "fill."

How to replace other knifes (down knifes)?!

With a nice, sharp cold chisel and the short length of railroad iron, you can replace a section right in the mower. Yes, there is a special tool for this, but it takes a long time and is a little less "romantic."

NEVER use thin blade for grinding, they will shatter

Sharpen the opposite direction when grinding and the edge will be sharper throwing sparks away from cutting edge.

I am a farmer . Never heard of grinding the teeth cause the edges are sharp and where out . Does it work ? Seems like you would grind off the hard cutting edges . I got a horse mower . Cool to see I can use the rivets instead of bolts . Good to see.

2:39 The new section (tooth) should be flush with the bar (like the other sections). You should hold the section to the bar with a locking pliers while hammering. The gap that you have created likely will eventually cause the rivets to break due to metal fatigue of the rivets. Also the section with the gap will not align properly with the corresponding section of the other bar, which will adversely affect cutting efficiency.

Try using the ping side of the hammer. That is the purpose of that side of the hammer.

If that cut off disc shattered, as they do when you use them for grinding, it can cut into your leg in a second.

Use the bolts, I havent used rivets in 15 years

Blaits kese banti he

We use bolts more than rivets in our company !

Hi, I just got mine at the local John Deere dealer.

Never heard these called "teeth" before. Around here (Indiana) we call these "sections". I think teeth is probably a better term. Your accent says you might be from Canada? We go to the Steam Show at Blyth each year.

teeth are called sections and the rivots go in the other way

There is a tool that has a concave face that you would hit with a hammer to make a round head. I have a video of me using it.

I've been beating on the back of the bar for an hour now with a 4 lb sledge using a vise and the side of my utv bed. I can't hit it any harder. Any pro tips out there?

This is why the sickle bar servicer was made, thank god.

You are putting the blind rivets, not "pins", in upside down. It would also be an investment to purchase a rivet setter, made for setting blind rivets. The rivets, set as you are doing it, will add friction to your cutter bar, and the teeth will not necessarily be straight. I would also add that you cut your old rivets with a cold chisel or grinder to avoid unecessary stress to your cutter bar.

I see you're using a ball peen hammer. The ball side is for rounding the heads of rivets. What you did is fine, but if you ever want a rounded head, use the ball side.

If u had a grinder why didn't u grind off the rivets??? U could have done more and faster.

Could you tell me where I could buy these teeth at?! I just recently started using mine again to teach the grandchildren how I used to cut hay! Awesome video, its been 20 years since I've ever replaced a tooth on one. Thanks!

Bought from blade box

Teeth should be tight to the bar before riveting. You are doing it upside down!

are those B- teeth?

А зубчатые сегменты косят лучше проверено многолетним опытом

WEAR EYE, GLOVES, & EAR PROTECTION

.

You dont know how to rivet section blades on tightly......

They are called SECTIONS not teeth 🤣