Restoring Motorized Grinding Centers | Atco MOTO-Center

Restoring Motorized Grinding Centers | Atco MOTO-Center | Harig Lectric Centers

Рет қаралды 75,256

Күн бұрын

Today I'm cleaning up and restoring a set of Atco MOTO-CENTERS. These were/are also sold under the name Harig Lectric-Centers. These ones came from an eBay listing and the seller ended up being local to me. We made a deal. I brought them home. And now we get to find out together what I got.
Tools and parts used in this video:
*This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated
R6-2RS Sealed Ball Bearings (Amazon*): amzn.to/47mXria
Bambu Lab X1-Carbon: bit.ly/3XzuET9
Bambu Lab X1-Carbon Combo: bit.ly/3JzYQaX
Bambu Lab P1S Printer: bit.ly/3OYgcjT
Bambu Lab Filaments: bit.ly/3pusOqd
Bambu Lab A1 Mini Combo*: bit.ly/3Q74t2P
Kneaded Eraser (Amazon*): amzn.to/49GmKgy
Interapid .0001" Dial Test Indicator (Amazon*): amzn.to/47hkoTD
Knipex Pliers Wrench 3-Piece Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/2ruzS8m
Knipex Twin Grip Pliers (Amazon*): amzn.to/441ODfo
Mini Hot Air Tool (Amazon*): amzn.to/2LVUiNt
Wera Kraftform Screwdriver Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/2UzK6CL
Aventor 8" DPS IP54 Caliper (Amazon*): amzn.to/3KNwWaV
Bondhus Metric Hex Key Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3eqZzwb
Bondhus SAE Hex Key Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3h9bJLZ
CMD Extreme Pressure Lube (Amazon*): amzn.to/45SNaKb
Milwaukee M18 Cordless Drill (Amazon*): amzn.to/3POpFte
Loctite 414 Super Bonder Super Glue (Amazon*): amzn.to/2ZsZn7A
High Voltage Insulation Tester (Amazon*): amzn.to/3PFE4Jm
Raw Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
00:00 Intro
00:42 What did I actually get?
04:05 Disassembly and inspection
10:26 Replacing the drive plate bearing
11:46 Designing an electrical cover
16:02 Electrical assembly
19:22 Mechanical assembly
23:22 Trying it out on the surface plate
28:02 Fixing the wooden case
29:28 Packing everything up
31:01 Megger insulation test
31:21 Conclusion

Пікірлер: 162

@StefanGotteswinter 7 ай бұрын

What a nice tool! Thanks for the detailed breakdown.

@adhawk5632 7 ай бұрын

Love these Sunday machining vids, we all like watching them👍👌🇦🇺

@Clough42 7 ай бұрын

You bet! Thanks for stopping by.

@dingsens2810 7 ай бұрын

Electrical engineer here, You can use those heatshrinks for 110V no worries Edit: Ziptie guns have another purpose: they pull the end a little more, then cut and release it. that way there is no sharp edge sticking out. People have sliced their arms on sharp ziptie ends when trying to reach into a cable mess..

@annacalise8336 7 ай бұрын

Just yesterday I was at Lowe's and someone zip tied the security sensors to the handles on the drills and just clipped the tails with cutters at an angle and I got cut TWICE both in the same place on the inside of the same finger, those zip tie guns make a clean flush cut and are really nice!

@jesusisalive3227 7 ай бұрын

Zip ties can be vicious! Anyone that cuts them at an angle should be banned from society!

@annacalise8336 7 ай бұрын

@@jesusisalive3227 For real! Especially if they're doing that right on a place people grab, almost seems intentional...

@embededfabrication4482 7 ай бұрын

Maybe people with soft skin

@jesusisalive3227 7 ай бұрын

@embededfabrication4482 Oh brother.

@charlvanniekerk8009 7 ай бұрын

I do wish for you that one day something you buy is actually 100% in perfect condition. But the lessons you teach and techniques you show when fixing things like this is just invaluable. Thank you for the incredible content

@thejoker-pd9df 7 ай бұрын

I was surprised that I had to scroll down about 8 comments find a mention of the missing motor housing grommet. It was really bugging me, especially after the cable management seemed to pull those wires tight and mash them against the housing. Great video as always, James and thanks for all the fusion 360 tips.

@DoRC 7 ай бұрын

I recently got a 20 watt diode laser cutter and I've added that into my prototype workflow. It's way more useful than I originally thought it would be. You can make a sketch infusion and then cut that sketch out in notebook paper in about 30 seconds and test fit it. It's incredible useful for rapid prototyping Even when the final design is going to be 3D printed.

@pendefig 7 ай бұрын

There should be a grommet of the motor housing where the wires come out

@DoRC 7 ай бұрын

A suggestion that's really helped me when modeling off of pictures in fusion is to take the pictures from as far away as possible and then zoom in digitally. The further away you are the less distortion you'll have which really helps with accuracy.

@oldfarthacks 7 ай бұрын

Nice find, nicely done. Given that the environment that this can be used in can be wet with coolant, the splices that you used are a good choice. The tend to be fluid tight and so protect the joints.

@smkole2 7 ай бұрын

As always, awesome James! You really are a very skilled individual and a pleasure to watch.

@907jl 7 ай бұрын

Hi James, very nice find, and good job getting it back in working order. I recently lucked in to one of these earlier in the year. Mine is a Harig branded Lectric Center, but as you noted they're basically the same unit, both made by Atco( and rebadged by Harig ). I did notice a couple of differences. Mine uses a small T-nut( just like the ones in a mill table toe clamp kit ) and the knobs are knurled aluminum with a threaded stud to screw into the T-nut. Another difference I saw, is that the headstock and tailstock bases of mine, are both one solid piece( no screw on end plate to register against the front of the bead. They are very nice tools. I'm using mine to make a 3"x6" cylinder square out of 8620 steel. Just doing a rough grind using a 46 grit wheel, produced a cylinder that is paralell to less than 3 tenths. I will take more care and fine tune it, once it's been surface hardened. Very happy with it. I don't know that I can attach a photo here in the comments, but if you send me a message I'd be happy to take whatever photos/measurements you'd like. Edited to add that I forgot to mention that the motor shaft on my Harig has "floating" end play, so when you switch the drive belt between the low and high speed pulleys, it automatically aligns itself to the pulley that drives the workpiece.

@Bob.Jenkins 7 ай бұрын

yes - I like how you paid cash for your purchase rather then pay the tax's... that alone proves you're a true 'Patriot'.

@Clough42 7 ай бұрын

I paid through the platform and paid sales tax, as required by eBay policy and local laws. I did, however, avoid shipping costs.

@crichtonbruce4329 7 ай бұрын

Nice score. I look forward to watching you put it to use.

@billdoodson4232 7 ай бұрын

Excellent work again James. But that split in the top of the box would do my head in. Another video of the glueing and clamping would be much appreciated.

@BenMitro 7 ай бұрын

I was going to say the same thing.

@davemason6273 6 ай бұрын

It's already getting on my nerves lol

@orbitONhigh 7 ай бұрын

uses those but splices all the time 600DC no problem. Though I would suggest getting some racheting crimpers for them.

@robertcrossley9803 7 ай бұрын

Nice video, your prowess in the use of fusion 360 is mesmerizing. Thanks for sharing.

@outsidescrewball 7 ай бұрын

Enjoyed…great discussion/demonstration/repairs

@shannonsears3496 6 ай бұрын

Even with 4 real OD grinders in the shop, i still find need for the Harig centers often. Nice find.

@Zarlax 7 ай бұрын

Forstner bits - if you ever have to enlarge or sink a hole like you did, there are two trick you can use (if you don’t have a drill press or mill at your disposal. First one - take a scrap of wood and run the forstner all the way through. Then you can try to center that over the hole and clamp it down and do a thing. Second, try running the forstner bit backward a few rotations. Sometimes I’ll do this anyway to score the wood fibers before I plunge the bit into even a fresh cut. Love your videos!

@osgeld 7 ай бұрын

little wood glue and a couple clamps will take care of that cracked top pretty quick

@Sheevlord 7 ай бұрын

Maybe a thin strip of wood to fill the crack if it doesn't close up with clamping

@realxman2000 7 ай бұрын

The calibrate tip in Fusion360 was helpful, thank you!

@dennislarsson1723 7 ай бұрын

I have a similar unit made by Joe Smith Enterprises. It's not motorized but has served me well for close to 40 plus years. Suburban tool makes a base for their Master Grind unit and you can add a motor if you want to. Another unique item in my collection is a compound sine plate that can tilt in either direction. Made in England and it comes in very handy when doing right hand/left hand parts using the same compound angle. Also at least 40 years in my tool collection.🤗

@rbyt2010 7 ай бұрын

A trick for using a Forstner bit in that situation is to drill a through hole with the bit in a piece of thin scrap, perhaps 6mm. Then clamp the scrap to locate the hole where you want to drill and use it as a guide.

@JimPudar 7 ай бұрын

Was just about to post this tip. Honestly though with access to a mill, that’s a better choice

@rbyt2010 7 ай бұрын

@@JimPudar yeh😏

@TheRalliowiec 7 ай бұрын

I find that metal workers are sometimes extremely dumbfounded when it comes to wood stuff.

@JimPudar 7 ай бұрын

@@TheRalliowiec it’s a totally different set of skills after all!

@jonedmonds1681 7 ай бұрын

I’m sure you are already planning this, but fine lapping compound on a toothpick and a lolly stick will clean up those internal & external centres. Be interesting to see if that 3 thenths are circularity errors on the cylinder, or more likely (I suspect), defects in the centres.

@jamest828 7 ай бұрын

This is going to be a good one!

@MrTjbnwi 7 ай бұрын

The next time you have to counter bore or enlarge a hole in wood, bore the proper size hole in a piece of plywood, clamp in location, place bit in hole, drill.

@cygnet1963 7 ай бұрын

We have an ATCO punch grinder at work with the add on motor. It’s a Baldor with a variable speed control on the end of it and a toggle switch for Forward Off Reverse.

@truckgotstuck 7 ай бұрын

Glad to see you using proper crimp and seals instead of those unfriendly solder shrinks. I find the solder shrinks to be just useless because you can't get enough heat to heat the copper they solder ring should flow into. A crimp is far more reliable. I only use crimp and seals when making butt connections.

@AmateurRedneckWorkshop 7 ай бұрын

Nice new toy. That poor box has had a hard life. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

@robertlevine2152 7 ай бұрын

James, The simple solution for the T‐nuts would have been rubber pads applided to the bottom. I recommend that you put the pads anyway. Wood doesnt like being pushed or dragged across surfaces. Sand the top of the box, save the saw dust. Mix woodglue with the sawdust to make a putty. Woork the putty into the cracks. You can scrape the excess off while it is still soft. Sand after it dries, the sawdust will blend the color. It will also take the finish you choose. Bob

@gwharton68 7 ай бұрын

Nice find. I would put some kind of insulating bushing around the wires were they enter the motor. My guess when the unit was built it had a Bodine motor and was replaced using the horrible wiring job.

@jamesocker5235 7 ай бұрын

Modeling on bambu is fun like you fusion process may need to try that, your electrical connection was great for the amps your drawing.

@air54plane 7 ай бұрын

Nice!!! Love your channel.

@stevelupton2533 7 ай бұрын

Great video. I'd suggest you get a ratchet crimp tool though. Much better and more consistent results than the manual one.

@melgross 7 ай бұрын

Carriage bolts have those flats. That’s what digs into the wood, or fits into a square hole punched out of a strap. I use a lot of heat shrink in my designs, and it’s fine. I wouldn’t use up for 440, but for 240 and below, it’s fine.

@subuser9627 7 ай бұрын

I just got almost the same insulation tester (UT502A - 500V-2500V) a week ago for testing the motor on the milling machine, 5G Ohm range on 1000V, good thinking. Better safe than sorry 😊

@jimsvideos7201 7 ай бұрын

Nice save.

@edpopelas2844 7 ай бұрын

I think you are perfectly fine to use the heat shrink connectors for this I will say from experience I would avoid them on your vehicle for exterior or where weather tight is a concern. I see these often and they hold moisture and build a nice green corrosion bulge that results in poor continuity. The heat shrink that ooze out a sealant are ideal however I’ve resorted to overkill by soldering connections and then installing a sealing heat shrink. I’ve found it at Ace if you ever want to experiment.

@mattholden5 7 ай бұрын

@Clough42 James, I'm very interested to see how you'll deal with 'wheel-hop' of heavy work as it spins in this small fixture. Stiffer spring? Slower rotation (maybe with an ELS servo)? Always a pleasure to watch you nerd out over metrology. Thanks for bringing us along.

@RRINTHESHOP 7 ай бұрын

That will be a great tool.

@snaplash 7 ай бұрын

If the ends of the cylindrical square are at 90 degrees to the side, it's in good shape. It doesn't matter if the side is concentric or parallel with the centers, which are part of pressed-in end plugs, and probably weren't used in the manufacturing of the square.

@jonka1 7 ай бұрын

Lovely work as always. The motor needs a replacement gromet for its wires.

@charlieromeo7663 6 ай бұрын

James, I just pick up an identical Atco center, and I’m really looking forward to using it. I hope you got as good a deal as I did! Good video. The timing is great! BTW, the tailstock originally comes with a radiused T-nut slightly ground to fit. I don't know how to share a photo with you, else I would.

@GeoffTV2 7 ай бұрын

Thanks for introducing me to the zip tie gun, gotta get me one of those. For you, I would suggest a nice set of wiring tools. The crimp tool, wire cutters and wire strippers you used here, all look horrid 🙂. I recommend a ratcheting crimp tool, Lindstrom wire cutters and a single-action wire stripper for your Black Friday shopping list.

@benjaminshaw80 7 ай бұрын

I have an ATCO magnetic sine plate. I scored it at auction a couple of weeks ago.

@larrysmall3521 7 ай бұрын

The Dayton brand motor is probably a replacement for the one from Atco. Dayton is a W.W. Grainger brand. That is probably why the sheet metal does not fit exactly and it would also explain the messy wiring.

@guyloughridge4628 6 ай бұрын

Very nice. And thank you for showing us how you used Fusion 360.

@M4XD4B0ZZ 6 ай бұрын

Favorite youtuber

@bobweiram6321 7 ай бұрын

Nice work. The box top is just asking for running some glue in the crack and clamping it closed.

@toddk.5873 7 ай бұрын

You might consider taking a thin stick of some kind & stuffing some white wood glue down into those cracks in the wood & clamping it up for a couple days. That should keep it from getting worse & fixed up nice.

@ronwilken5219 6 ай бұрын

Hi James, interesting looking device. One note. When you were testing runout on the cylinder the drive pulley on the motor was not in line with the "headstock" pulley. Also the drive screw skewed the HS pulley so it wasn't running true. This was possibly contributing to some of the runout. Some form of drive dog that doesn't influence the pulley track is definitely needed before you do any remedial grinding on that cylinder square. Happy thanksgiving from Canada's banana belt.🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊️🇺🇲🦃👍

@g.tucker8682 7 ай бұрын

For those looking for those erasers for cleaning, the term you want is "kneaded eraser." Available at art supply/ hobby stores.

@RambozoClown 7 ай бұрын

Another option used by watchmakers is Rodico. It is a specifically made cleaning putty. (Hamilton Watch Co. actually used bread dough back in the day)

@JohannSwart_JWS 7 ай бұрын

We call it BluTac. The watchmakers call it Rodico.

@g.tucker8682 7 ай бұрын

@@JohannSwart_JWS BluTac is a different product, but also useful for picking up grit, etc. Kneaded erasers are quite a bit softer.

@melgross 7 ай бұрын

@@g.tucker8682man, I haven’t used those for decades.

@OuroborosArmory 7 ай бұрын

As an art teacher who uses both, kneaded erasers are also quite a bit cheaper.. though the sticky ness varies, and goes away when old

@ajosepi1976 7 ай бұрын

A couple bow ties in the top of the box would fix it up nicely. Pretty sure your CNC could make quick work of it.

@PaulSteMarie 7 ай бұрын

The nylon crimp butt spices should be fine. They look to be of decent quality. FWIW, I usually use Molex Insulkrimps or Panduit terminals. I find that they crimp better and are a lot stronger than random brand x terminals. Odd that you're have problems with Bondhus hex keys.

@jonsaircond8520 7 ай бұрын

Love your videos even though 80% of your content isn't anything I do. For instance I just watched the whole thing and have no idea what it even was

@brianrhubbard 7 ай бұрын

Heads up, the higher the voltage, the lower the resistance. Should be OK to use those terminals. Those terminals are used in 240v hvac systems in homes. Higher voltage normally needs less Amps to do the same job. I will advise you to use UL certified connectors in your home, but in reality, if there was ever an issue, it will just trip the breaker/fuse

@Rorschach1024 7 ай бұрын

I'd suggest using some titebond 3 wood glue and clamps to close up the crack on top of the box.

@tiredoldmechanic1791 7 ай бұрын

That cord looks like th ones we used on large angle grinders. It doesn't seem like a grinder would be made with a open motor. That Dayton might be a replacement from Grainger.

@BrianBoniMakes 7 ай бұрын

You'd think ATCO would have been big enough to custom order motors from a higher end builder but I've see others with the same motor. I really don't think it matters much but it does look like a sewing machine motor.

@TheMostUt 6 ай бұрын

I'd say don't use crimps unless absolutely necessary. I much prefer solder connection for any connection that should be "permenant". Not that there is not anything glaringly wrong with crimps, I've just had far more longevity issues with crimps than with soldered connections. For the box lid, I'd just drop a little wood glue in with the box closed at rest, and sand it smooth slowly.

@CalmBeforeTheStorm76 7 ай бұрын

I see you're a man who knows the value of the Knipex Pliers-Wrench. 😎

@Clough42 7 ай бұрын

I really enjoy them.

@leec2106 7 ай бұрын

I would also use some glue in the cracks of the box, with a clamp across the lid and bottom, if you do it as well. Good luck, Lee

@Clough42 7 ай бұрын

There's evidence around the inside edges of glue squeeze-out, so I suspect someone already tried that.

@robbvk6es 7 ай бұрын

@@Clough42 the timber has dried out and shrunk. As suggested re-gule and clamp followed by a generous linseed oiling. You have a laser engraver ? scan the logo and reproduce it on new timber. Ply??

@shawnstuart1029 6 ай бұрын

May be nothing but I noticed the pulley wheel wobbles a bit and may be transferring the momentum from the wobble to the spinning cylinder affecting the reading. Check the replay. Nice bit o kit there.

@chickenman297 7 ай бұрын

Not sure about over in Yankland, but where live, it's 240V. You would not be able to use those crimp connectors here if the wiring was going to be exposed in any way as the law requires double insulation or a floating chassis. As the motor is earthed they would need double insulation, but you've enclosed them nicely so should be all good. Edit: ... or earthed chassis ...

@TheDevnul 7 ай бұрын

Again with the excellent content. Can you use your granite plate to test if the cylinder was out of round? Precision V block? Is that even a thing?

@Clough42 7 ай бұрын

Roundness is difficult to measure with simple tools because there are ways a part can be out of round and still measure good. For example, when measuring diameter: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curve_of_constant_width

@Hilmi12 7 ай бұрын

The case might have been used for multiple types of tools by the manufacturer and the holes might have been for the other models

@ashreid20 7 ай бұрын

Small tip for people using photos in fusion. Try and take the pictures with a camera lense with a long focal legnth, position yourself as far away from the part as needed inorder to be zoomed in as much as possible. This will prevent paralax error, distortion in your image due to the viewing angle of the camera.

@Clough42 7 ай бұрын

Good tip. That's what I did here, but forgot to mention it.

@joebusfield446 7 ай бұрын

Love my zip tie guns!

@JohannSwart_JWS 7 ай бұрын

A Japanese Clough would put some ribbon shaped wood inserts across those cracks in the case. You do have a CNC mill if I remember correctly? Or just accept the challenge of doing it by hand :-)

@cwgreen1938 7 ай бұрын

James, the big pulley has a wobble that corresponds with the frequency of the change in the reading on the indicator on the test meter. Wonder if the two could be related?

@Clough42 7 ай бұрын

Doubt it, since the same reading appears consistently across the cylinder. Both are just wobbling once per revolution.

@ucirello 7 ай бұрын

I see you got a taste of polycarbonate. My first HT material was PC (then PC-CF by prusament) before PA/PA-CF. So sharing my experience. PC and PC-CF, for a period of time, became my go-to material for functional printing, and what I learned throughout the time that PC-based parts that you use bolts on them tend to get loose. I have a custom 3D printer in which the 3d printed parts are made of PC and every once in a while I have to tighten them again - especially if the PC parts experience temperature fluctuations (between 20C and 45C). But they look darn good! And also, for my use cases, they actually have good enough mechanical properties. For that bracket inside your lathe, I would be curious if a PC-based part would hold as well as PA.

@Clough42 7 ай бұрын

PA is famous for creep. I didn't realize PC had the same issue. I'll keep an eye on it.

@theabhominal8131 7 ай бұрын

as a 52 year old second generation machinist yes you have to and will collect them all...

@jimdean7335 7 ай бұрын

Ok, you beat me to this one. I got a similiar tool with my Harig 618 I just restored. I need to get it cleaned up and learn how to use it. I’m disappointed you didn’t fix the crack in box……😟

@PuchMaxi 7 ай бұрын

Why does the large pulley wobble when powered by the motor, but not when you spun it by hand?

@jhbonarius 7 ай бұрын

Nice! But about the hole for the wheel dressing diamond: shouldn't that always be at an angle, to prevent damaging of the diamond tip? This one seems to be straight.

@MichielvanderMeulen 6 ай бұрын

The offset from the center should do that?

@randysmith9715 7 ай бұрын

James; EVERY Network admin has his own zip tie gun! Your hands will HURT after doing a few hundred of those. Where I worked we had powered tie guns. The gun fed from a spool of tie material, went around the wires and then crimped BOTH ends onto the ties and cut the ties.

@erik_dk842 6 ай бұрын

I'd like to score one of those

@TheRalliowiec 7 ай бұрын

@clough42, what are the specs of your Fusion360 computer? Never seen Fusion be so smooth before.

@martinmarriott3607 7 ай бұрын

I suspect that the “smoothness “ has nothing to do with the computer but rather the use of a SpaceMouse. Fusion doesn’t need a super powerful computer but does like lots of RAM.

@scoty7392 7 ай бұрын

You need a grommet on the motor to protect the wiring. 😁

@larrybud 7 ай бұрын

I watched this thing until 25:00 not knowing what it was for until you explained it. lol

@allwaysfarm3087 6 ай бұрын

What software package are you using for your designs…?

@ImolaS3 6 ай бұрын

I am wondering if the runout you saw is due to the fairly new cylindrical square or the very old Atco? Might be worth looking deeper at the Atco?

@Clough42 6 ай бұрын

The centers in the ATCO are dead centers, so there *shouldn't* be any runout contribution from them. It would be worth throwing an indicator on the center to confirm something crazy isn't happening.

@JustinDavidow 7 ай бұрын

That motor cover just looks like it needs an IEC socket rather than the cord hanging off the back.

@car9167 7 ай бұрын

I don't think you can regrind that cylinder with those centers. They are not rigid enough. You can use a Mikrokator with 0.5 micron precision or less to measure every say 10 degrees around the cylinder and there should be two verticals 180 degrees apart dead square to the surface plate even the hole cylinder is tilted. The cylinder needs to have precise diameter at all heights. You can mark where that precise vertical is and use only that part of the cylinder. That's what I did with mine which is 12" long

@DudleyToolwright 7 ай бұрын

I noticed on the disassembly that the power switch was on the neutral and that the hot went straight to the motor. It is highly unlikely that that was factory original. This scheme would make most of the wiring and the motor hot when the plug is in the wall.

@Clough42 7 ай бұрын

Oh, wow. I hadn't noticed that. Good catch!

@REAPER85151 7 ай бұрын

with the holes aligment, i belive u should twist the maschine with the motor in the right side .....

@Clough42 7 ай бұрын

The motor only goes on the base one way due to the angled T slot. If I rotate the entire assembly 180 degrees it won't fit in the box.

@Real.Alpheus 7 ай бұрын

Slow down your outer wall speed to about 70 to get rid of that ringing on that #42

@dylannicholson950 7 ай бұрын

👍🏻

@rickmellor 7 ай бұрын

Do NOT take a drink every time James says “precision” in this video! 😵😁

@mathewritchie 7 ай бұрын

You`re no fun.😜

@rickmellor 7 ай бұрын

@@mathewritchie just looking out for you guys. I know I’d be flat on my face! 🤣

@FullSendPrecision 7 ай бұрын

Some pine oil would really clean that box up and give it a nice finish!

@p.t.anderson1593 7 ай бұрын

Algorithm appeasing comment. Excellent and interesting video, very nice.

@triplemikes 7 ай бұрын

One thing I like to do is put a ruler in the picture and calibrate the photo to that.

@AllenCavedo 7 ай бұрын

Nice project. I still have no idea what this tool does or is for.

@robbvk6es 7 ай бұрын

spinning cylindrical parts whilst grinding

@AlexSwavely 7 ай бұрын

Channel @johnsonrestoration shows the process of fixing broken wood furniture while keeping as much original wood intact as possible, it shouldn't be hard to find a video of his on fixing a broken panel that you could follow to restore the case, if you're of that mind..

@mnoon7940 7 ай бұрын

Clamp the lid and route in butterflies

@JustPrinted3D 7 ай бұрын

guess you remove the o ring while in storage to keep the o an o :-)

@kiwishamoo6494 7 ай бұрын

You didn't glue the box lid??????

@xConundrumx 7 ай бұрын

Do a Resin River cast repair on the box lid, it has a nice wavey line that would look great with some blue metal flake resin. In fact here is an idea, use the grinder to make the metal flakes for the resin cast.

@SethKotta 7 ай бұрын

Anybody else thinking a collab with one of the restoration channels to bring that box back to life?

@ErikBongers 7 ай бұрын

You pronounced Knipex correctly!

@Clough42 7 ай бұрын

I try.

@keithmonarch447 7 ай бұрын

James, I was a regular watcher, when most of your content, doing machine stuff. Then you moved more towards electrical/programming. I really enjoyed your past work. I haven't ever seen this device, so good luck, and hopefully it will work out for you.

@mattmanyam 7 ай бұрын

Your passive-aggressive comment has been noted.

@larryschweitzer4904 6 ай бұрын

That cracked lid is due to poor design of the box. The top & drop edges are cross grained. When there is a change in moisture/humidity the top piece will want to expand or contract but the lengthwise grain of the drop edge will not. Glue will not stop it! Proper design would have been to float a panel in a frame or use plywood.

@benjaminshaw80 7 ай бұрын

Comment!!!!